chutney, enchilada sauce, hoisin sauce, ketchup (x2), peanut sauce, pesto, plum sauce, sweet & salsa, sour sauce, teriyaki sauce – and a few bonus recipes
This post came from a bigger one called HOMEMADE MIXES that just kept growing and growing. At length I finally had to divide it into sections to keep it manageable. Hence – the separation – sorry about any inconvenience it may have caused in your searching.
HOMEMADE ENCHILADA SAUCE
Stir to combine these dry ingredients: 3 T flour 1 T chili powder 1 t cumin 1/2 t garlic powder 1/2 t crushed dried oregano leaves 1/4 t salt pinch cinnamon 3 T oil – your choice 2 T tomato powder 2 cups vegetable broth 1 T vinegar – your choice Directions: 1. Heat 3 Tablespoons of oil to sizzling temperature, add spice mix and stir to toast. 2. Whisk in 2 Tablespoons tomato powder, then slowly add 2 cup vegetable broth. 3. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and gently simmer till thickened a bit. 4. Remove from heat, and stir in 1 Tablespoon vinegar. Let sit till ready to use, or cover and refrigerate.
HOISIN SAUCE
Hoisin sauce is a thick, dark, fragrant sauce commonly used in Chinese cooking, in a stir fry, or as dipping sauce for Asian dumplings. Lots of different recipes – give this one a try. 1/2 cup soy sauce 2 T dark molasses 2 T honey 1 T toasted sesame oil (darker and more flavourful than regular sesame oil) 2 T rice vinegar 1/4 cup peanut butter 3 cloves garlic finely minced 2 T sriracha sauce or your favourite hot chili sauce 1/2 t black pepper 1 T miso paste 1/4 cup water with 1 T cornstarch made into a slurry
Directions: In a small saucepan over medium high heat, whisk together everything except cornstarch slurry. When sauce is bubbling, whisk in cornstarch slurry continuing to stir and simmer till it begins to thicken. When it is the desired consistency, remove from heat. Makes almost 2 cups. Pour into a pint jar and allow to cool. STORE in fridge for 4-6 weeks. Use it to glaze salmon, ribs, chicken, shrimp – a little goes a long way as it is highly concentrated.
HOMEMADE KETCHUP – 2 variations
It’s ironic that in most cases, condiments were homemade at first, and then commercially reproduced to taste as close to homemade as possible. Not really possible – but we become so accustomed to the commercial variation that we now try to make the homemade version taste like IT. How backwards is that? The homemade version is all about natural flavours and ingredients. Super easy, and tastes so much better than commercial if FRESH tasting is important to you.
HOMEMADE KETCHUP #1 For when you have lots of FRESH Garden tomatoes that need to be used up.
– Fresh Tomatoes – salt and pepper – optional: fresh garden hot pepper – a little of your favourite vinegar: apple cider, red wine, even balsamic? Your choice. – Tomato Powder1 * some people might add a little sugar. I never have – it doesn’t appeal to me at all, but you do you.
Chop fresh garden tomatoes into a saucepan. Small, medium or large? Depends how many tomatoes you’re trying to use up. No need to peel tomatoes.
Put on medium low heat and bring to a boil. Be attentive at the beginning to prevent scorching; a lot of tomato juice will be created, but be sure your heat at the beginning isn’t too high. Stir frequently as it comes to a slow rolling boil.
At this point, you can cover the pot and let it gently simmer (just below the boiling point), for about an hour. Set the timer every 10 minutes to remind you to check on it, and give it a stir to prevent scorching.
To clarify: simmering is just below the boiling point. It uses moderate heat to soften foods slowly over time, before gradually adding seasonings and other ingredients.
After about an hour, you should notice that a lot of the tomato ‘water’ is evaporating and the sauce is thickening. Add a little salt. Since you’re working with an indefinite amount of tomatoes, I can’t tell you how much salt. Taste test. Start with 1/4 teaspoon and taste. Add 1/4 teaspoon at a time, taste testing as you go.
I really like what black pepper does to a savoury dish, so I add the same amount of pepper as I do salt. Once you’ve salted to your taste, add the pepper. Try adding equal amounts – you might be surprised at how much you’ll like it. I think black pepper is very under used in our culture.
If I have a nice garden pepper on the counter, I’ll chop it finely and add it. It adds some zing.
Add a little vinegar if you want. I generally choose a basil vinegar that I’ve made previously, but use what you have.
* Tomato Powder will thicken your ketchup adding beautiful colour, texture and that familiar tomato acid. Again, since you’re working with an indefinite amount of tomatoes to start with, it’s hard to say how much TOMATO POWDER you’ll want to use, but don’t over do it. Start with a tablespoon at a time, and stir to completely incorporate. Add another tablespoon and incorporate till you’re happy with the texture and taste.
That’s IT! You’re done. The way Tomato Ketchup was supposed to be.
HOMEMADE KETCHUP #2 For when you do not have fresh garden tomatoes – no worries, you’ve always got tomato powder.
1 c. *Tomato Powder2 3 1/2 c. water 1/3 c. honey or sugar – your choice 1/2 c. Cider Vinegar 2 tbsp. freeze dried chopped onions 1 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. garlic Powder 1/2 tsp. black Pepper 1/2 tsp. dry Mustard 1/8 tsp. ground Allspice
directions: In a medium sized pot combine all the ingredients. Stir to mix and bring to a boil, continuing to stir frequently. Reduce heat and gently simmer, stirring frequently till ketchup reaches the perfect consistency for you. Expect that to be about 45 minutes – depending on thickness desired. Pour into glass jar and refrigerate. , continuing to stir frequently. Reduce heat and gently simmer, stirring frequently till ketchup reaches the perfect consistency for you. Expect that to be about 45 minutes – depending on thickness desired. Pour into glass jar and refrigerate. Mine yielded 2 pint jars. Best to let it sit for a day to allow flavours to fully blend.
STORE 2 – 3 weeks in the fridge. Use as you would normally use regular ketchup.
PLUM SAUCE – 2 variations
A sweet, tangy, and utterly delicious savoury sauce – bursting with flavour. It doesn’t matter what kind of plum you use. They’re all going to make it a little bit different, but that makes it unique to the year. Blue plums, black plums, red plums or even green plums – or a combination of some. Whatever you have on hand. *Try adding some rhubarb if you have some left at the end of the season. How to use plum sauce in? and in what dishes? As a dip: Typically plum sauce is used as a dipping sauce for Asian egg rolls or spring rolls or Asian dumplings. A sweet and tangy contrast to the crispness of an egg roll. But don’t stop there! Meat: Use as a glaze when grilling chicken or pork; or on the table as a sauce to serve along side of pork roast. Crackers: spoon a dollop on to of cream cheese and crackers. Or on a charcutere’ platter. Vegetables: Drizzle over your roasted vegetables, or make a quick homemade salad dressing: start with your favourite oil and vinegar (try balsamic), with a little dijon mustard. Stir in a tablespoon or two plum sauce. Stir Fried Meal: Add a few spoons full to your stir-fries right at the very end. Cranberry sauce substitute: Use as you would a cranberry sauce with chicken or turkey. Use as a spread the next time you make turkey sandwiches.
Plum Sauce #1 – Simple
5 cups pitted and chopped fresh plums – or 4 cups if you’re chopping them in smaller pieces (dicing) – about 1.5 – 2 pounds 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar 1/3 cup brown sugar 2 T soy sauce 2 cloves garlic minced 1-2 T grated fresh ginger or 1-2 teaspoons ginger powder 1/2 t red pepper flakes (optional) * try switching out 1/4 – 1/3 of the plums for an equal amount of rhubarb – for a tangy twist
directions: 1. Put all together in medium sauce pan, bring to boil over medium heat. 2. Reduce heat to low and simmer till sauce is thickened slightly – could be up to an hour. 3. Mash with a potato masher, or if you want a smooth consistency, puree with a blender. Personally I prefer more texture so I don’t puree, but go ahead and do you.
Remember this is a ‘sauce’, not a jam. The thickness you’re looking for is a little runnier than jam; something that can be spooned or even poured. That’s it! It’s so easy its almost embarrassing. But its SO good. The vinegar, soy sauce and brown sugar are such a sweet and yet tangy combination. The perfect compliment to a tangy plum flavour. This will be good in your fridge for a week or so. But if you’ve got a lotta plums, double or triple it and process in pint (500 ml) or 1/2 pint (250 ml) jars in a hot water bath. Process for 15 minutes once the hot water bath returns to a rolling boil. Label with date and description and store up to two years.
*tip – this amount will yield about 3 250 ml jars / 1 cup / half pint. 10 cups chopped plums yielded 3 500 ml jars / 3 pints OR 6 250 ml / 1 cup / 1/2 pint for more direction on home canning click HERE
Plum Sauce #2 – more robust
16-18 cups (about 4 pounds plums pitted and chopped) 1 medium onion, diced 3 large garlic cloves minced 1.5 cups brown sugar 1.5 cups apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup shredded fresh ginger OR 1 Tablespoon powdered ginger 1 Tablespoon ground mustard 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1+ Tablespoon red pepper flakes 1/2 teaspoon cloves
directions: 1. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. 2. Reduce heat to medium low and gently simmer 60-90 minutes, stirring every few minutes.
I am usually making preserves according to the produce I have on hand that I want to find good use for. It’s a rare time I buy an ingredient for a recipe. I choose recipes to match what I HAVE on hand. That’s the whole point – to use what I have. Q: So what if you don’t have enough plums to make this recipe? A: be flexible. What do you have that will compliment the flavour and profile? In the season of plums, I generally also have apples, and the last of the rhubarb left. Perfect! Both are excellent companions for the taste of a plum sauce. So here’s a suggestion variation: Substitute half of the plums for apples and/or rhubarb. Will it taste exactly the same as plum sauce? Of course not. But will it be good and will you like it? Why wouldn’t you? Open your mind – be flexible and be creative. And yes, it taste’s great.
PEANUT SAUCE (for Spring Rolls)
*I use this sauce to pour over or as a dip for Spring Rolls, but the truth is – it’s so yummy I may or may not eat it by the spoonful. 2/3 cup peanut butter 1/4 cup T rice vinegar 1/4 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup liquid honey 2 T sesame oil 4 cloves garlic minced 1/4 – 1/3 cup water (start with 1/4 cup and add a little more if needed Whisk together to make creamy but dip-able sauce. Can store in fridge for a week or two.
*BONUS – Spring Roll recipe Spring rolls can seem intimidating, but you’ll get the hang of it quickly and be a pro in no time. It’s kinda like folding a burrito but tighter. The first few won’t be perfect, but don’t stress out – you’re just gonna eat ’em anyway.
filling: thin rice noodles, finely shredded: lettuce, cabbage, carrot; long thin cucumber wedges; chopped green onions, fresh cilantro and fresh mint. Small amount of sesame oil and little bit of salt. 1. Cook noodles in boiling water for 2-3 minutes. Test. DON’T over-cook. 2. Drain and rinse immediately in cold water. Drain again. OR 1. Soak them in warm water (not cold, not hot) for 10-15 minutes till softened. 2. Drain and rinse in cold water. Drain again. T 3. Drizzle 2 T sesame oil over top and 1 t. salt to keep from sticking together. Set aside. *hint: have everything ready to go so that you can focus on the rice paper and folding.
wrapper: Rice Paper Sheets building the rolls 1. lay a round rice paper sheet one at a time in a pie plate of cool water – 10-20 seconds till pliable. Lay on a clean tea towel and place a few pieces of lettuce about one-third from the bottom of the wrapper. You want to leave a couple inches open on the two sides for wrapping. 2. Add remaining ingredients in whatever order you prefer, but I like to do – lettuce, cabbage, carrots, green onions, topped with a couple wedges of cucumber and then sprinkled with the chopped herbs . Leave the top third of the wrapper open for wrapping. 3. Gently pull the bottom of the wrapper up and over the filling. Try to keep the filling as tight as you can as you roll upwards, until the filling is enveloped. Pull the sides over to enclose the filling completely. Continue rolling till fully wrapped.
The more you do, the tighter they’ll get. You may have to eat the first one to get rid of the evidence of it.
PESTO
I am a huge fan of PESTO – in fact, many PESTOS. I grow a lotta Basil for the sake of Pesto, but don’t limit yourself to just basil. You can use many different green herbs, or a combination of some of them. A whole new world of pesto awaits. I have a few different Pesto recipes elsewhere on this site, so instead of pasting them all here – I’m including the links. basil pesto oregano pesto nasturtium pesto radish green pesto I hope you’ll go check them out, and even make up a batch or two in the summer when all is fresh and green.
SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE
Sweet and sour sauce is a exactly what its name suggests: sweet AND sour. Many people use a splash of red food colouring to give it it’s signature red colour. Don’t do that! Use my secret ingredient to get a full bodied flavour, and an all natural, gorgeous red colour.
I grew up on sweet and sour meatballs or short ribs – complete with food colouring. It was the way of things in those day. You could go out and buy a bottle if you crave that food colouring, but it’s SO easy to whip up your own. It tastes better. is free of all those nasty “unpronounce-ables”, and it’s cheap. Great to use as a Dipping sauce for ribs, egg rolls, and dumplings. Great to serve your meatballs in, or to even add to your pulled pork dish. Great to use in your stir fried vegetables and chicken over rice. Great to use as a glaze when grilling chicken pieces, hamburgers or porkchops. Great to even use as a pizza sauce for an Asian twist. Be creative.
In small saucepan, dissolve 1/2 cup brown sugar in 1 cup pineapple juice Bring to a boil, then reduce heat. Create a cornstarch slurry with 1 1/2 Tablespoon cornstarch and 2 Tablespoons water. Pour into the pineapple juice and stir while it simmers and begins to thicken. Add 3 Tablespoons of *TOMATO POWDER* and continue stirring to completely dissolve. Add 2 Tablespoons soy sauce and 1/2 cup rice vinegar, continuing to stir. When its the perfect consistency, turn the heat off and serve!
Pour into a pint jar and allow to cool. Makes almost 2 cups. STORE in fridge for 2-4 weeks.
TERIYAKI SAUCE
1 cup water 1/4 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup brown sugar 2 T honey 1/2 teaspoon powdered ginger 1 garlic clove minced OR 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
2 T cornstarch mixed into a slurry with 1/4 cup cold water and set aside
Combine everything except cornstarch slurry into a small sauce pan. Bring to medium heat and whisk ingredients till thoroughly combined. Slowly add cornstarch slurry whisking constantly till its thickened to desired consistency. Use as you would any other teriyaki sauce. Make ahead and Store in a glass jar in the fridge for 4-6 weeks.
SALSAS
a Salsa is any of a variety of sauces used as condiments for tacos and other Mexican origin dishes. They can be raw or cooked, used as sauces or dips, and are generally served at room temperature. A similar condiment with an Indian flare is chutney.
MANGO CUCUMBER SALSA with LIME 2 cups freeze dried mangoes OR fresh mango diced 2 cups freeze dried cucumbers OR fresh cucumber diced 1 cup freeze dried red bell peppers OR fresh pepper diced 1/4 cup freeze dried chopped onions OR 1/2 medium red onion diced finely 1/4 cup vegetable oil – your choice 1/2 cup water if using freeze dried OR 1/4 cup water if using fresh 1 T Lime powder OR juice of one lime (don’t be afraid to add more LIME) up to 2 T honey 1/2 c chopped fresh cilantro
Combine all produce in a bowl.
Prepare dressing on the side and drizzle over top.
Let sit for a few minute before serving.
* When you’re using freeze dried ingredients you can prepare this ahead in a jar, all except for the liquids. When you’re ready, just pour into a bowl, add water and oil, stir to combine and presto! You’re done. You’ll have to forego the fresh cilantro, or add it later. This is wonderful for me because I can have ‘fresher-than-fresh’ mango salsa any time it appeals to me. You can store this freeze dried ‘mix’ in a sealed jar for 6 months to a year. Once it is prepared, you can keep it in the fridge for up to a week.
FRESH RHUBARB SUMMER SALSA click link for recipe I call this ‘summer salsa’ because of the many other ingredients that are plentiful in a summer garden, but not so plentiful in the spring as early as rhubarb is ready. This combination is terrific, delicious all by itself. Who said rhubarb has to be sweet? When you use it as a vegetable, you’re a little more willing to use less sugar. Only 1 tablespoon of brown sugar with over 8 cups vegetables.
FRESH RHUBARB CHUTNEY click link for recipe I love the sweet spicy smell that fills the house with this gorgeous spiced rhubarb chutney. So delicious, you can eat it straight. Personally I wouldn’t can it, simply because I’d prefer not to cook it that long, but you can always freeze the fresh rhubarb so that you can make this a few times in the off season. So quick and easy, and the bonus is that your house will smell GREAT! Lovely served over pork roast, beef or chicken– or wherever you use chutney. Enjoy!
Have fun with all these different sauces. Be flexible and be creative. I hope you’ll share your successes with me below.
Tomato Powder is an important part of my kitchen staples. I use it often. You can buy it, or make it by dehydrating your garden tomatoes, then powdering them in the blender. When I make my own, I try to be careful not to powder too finely, as I prefer a more ‘flakey’ texture. *Tomato powder WILL absorb moisture from the air and compress in time. No worries, just use a fork to loosen it and use it anyway. It’s still excellent quality, just responding to the moisture. Keep a tight lid on it to prevent that as much as possible. ↩︎
Learn how to make and use TOMATO POWDER. Recipes and suggestions. Click HERE
Every plant wants to go to seed; that’s what their designed to do. Plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and squash have their seeds inside. Plants like greens will bolt, forming seed heads toward the end of the season. Peas and beans (legumes) produce pods with seeds inside. Annual flowers form seed heads that are easy to gather. Every plant has its unique way to reproduce. They are gifts from nature, and we can afford to be choosy about picking only the best.
Saving seeds is not difficult and there really is no mystery involved. There are a few basic rules to follow, but they all make perfect sense, so once you understand them – you’re off to the races. But first . . . . WHY would you want to? Well, I don’t know why you’d want to, but I know there are some reasons that compel me to want to save seeds.
7 reasons I save my own garden seeds
SELF RELIANCE I love that I’m not dependent on stores providing for all my needs. If COVID taught us anything it was that supply chains are fragile. I still buy seeds – don’t get me wrong, but there is something about being independent in as many areas as possible that speaks to me. Self reliance is a major factor in most decisions I make. I was raised by a dad who always had a ‘backup’, and often times he had a backup for his backup – so it’s kinda ingrained in me. I know now that I have enough seeds to plant my garden next year. That’s not to say I might choose to buy something specific next spring, but I don’t need to.
COST SAVINGS It saves me a lotta money. It’s hard to beat ‘FREE’.
PRESERVING HEIRLOOM VARIETIES Some plants I grow, I couldn’t buy the seed if I wanted. The only way for me to grow my Romanian Giant tomatoes for example, is if I save my own seed. And I love these particular type of tomatoes. I’ve grown them for over a decade – they’re my tomato of choice. I got my first plants from my sister Pearl-Ann, which I loved and saved the seed from. Since then I’ve shared them with countless other gardeners. (see more about HEIRLOOM SEEDS below)
GREATER CONTROL OVER CHARACTERISTICSYOU LIKE By saving seeds, I can select good strong plants with features and traits I prefer in appearance and size, as well as colour, flavour, even resistance to disease. Over time these characteristics can become stronger, allowing me to fine tune exact traits I prefer.
ADAPTATION Similar to control over the characteristics, seeds saved from my own garden are better adapted to the conditions of my location: the climate, the soil, even the pests. Over time, these seeds will produce plants that are more resilient to the negatives and more responsive to the positives features of my area. That means increased yield.
6. COMMUNITY We’re not alone. Sowing Seeds that Others May Reap, and Reaping What Others Have Sown – is part of the cooperative effort that ‘community’ is all about. There are other gardeners like us collecting their own seeds, and like us, they’re likely be happy to share. You’ve probably already benefitted from someone sharing seed and you’ve probably also shared your own. A GARDEN COMMUNITY! That’s what I’m talking about, doesn’t matter whether you live near or far. I’ve shared with my next door neighbour, friends in our community garden, and cousins who live a thousand miles away.
Our local community garden recently hosted our 4th SEEDY SATURDAY. We outgrew our first year’s event in the community hall. Among other things we’ve since added, it’s still essentially a time where people bring seed to share, and hope to come home with shared seed. We look forward to it every year.
7. Personal SATISFACTION Saving my own seed is rewarding and it helps to establish a closer connection to the food I grow and that I feed my family.
If any of my reasons for saving, sound compelling to you, then read on –
HOW TO
STRONG AND HEALTHY Choose only healthy plants that have all the desirable attributes you want to perpetuate. Save seeds from the strongest, best looking, and most disease resistant plants and fruit.
RIPE Allow plants to FULLY mature. Wait for them to complete their life cycle and for the seeds to be dry. For seeds from fleshy fruits like cucumbers and tomatoes, see below.
HYBRID Be careful that the seeds you’re collecting are NOT from hybrid plants. Hybrid plants are created by deliberately cross pollinating two different varieties of a plant aiming to produce an offspring that contains the best features of both parents. These seeds are not likely to produce exactly true to form. If they’re in a package, they’ll be labelled as ‘hybrids’ so don’t forget what you planted. I keep a record of the type of seeds I planted in gardening journal. I suggest you do the same.
LABEL You think you’re gonna remember, but you. will. NOT! Don’t trust yourself. Label with the type of seed, the date gathered or stored, and any other pertinent notes you’ll be glad to know when you plant it. DON’T count on remembering those details, you’re just setting yourself up for failure.
DRY Lay them out: After collecting, spread seeds in a single layer on paper towels or a tray to continue drying. Don’t rush them. Being properly dried will make the difference between whether they last or not. Use a bag for drying: For tiny seeds, place the dried seed heads in a paper bag for a week to allow them to finish drying and release the seeds. Ensure thorough drying: Seeds must be completely dry to prevent rotting.
USING A BROWN PAPER BAG For plants with seed heads (marigolds, poppy pods, lettuce that has bolted, sunflowers, herbs like dill), wait for seeds to dry completely on the plant, then cut them and place in a paper bag to prevent seeds from falling all over the place. Leave in the bag for a couple of weeks depending on how moist or big the seeds were at gathering. Shake the bag to dislodge all the seeds. Remove stems and foliage. Fold the bag and label to store, or pour into another container. Label!
FLESHY FRUITS Cucumbers – allow to over ripen on the vine – yellow. Cut open and gently scoop the seeds out. Rinse in a fine colander and shake seeds on a paper towel to dry. Peppers, select a mature pepper and let it turn completely red, then remove seeds by hand or with a spoon. Spread onto paper towel and allow them to sit till fully dry. About a week if the weather isn’t too humid. Squash – Zucchini or any kind of winter squash – allow to fully ripen, then cut squash open and scoop out seeds to lay on paper towel. Leave for a week or two or even more if necessary. Ensure they are totally dry. Tomatoes – allow to over ripen on the vine (if possible). Cut open and gently scoop the seeds out. 1) Rinse well, freeing the seeds from the jelly like substance they’re suspended in, pour in a fine strainer and allow to drain. You can either spread out onto a paper towel to dry, or let them sit in the strainer till they’re completely dry. Scroll down for more details.
CLEAN Remove chaff, husks, dry leaves or other debris.
STORE Have your containers decided on, prepared and waiting. Prepared means cleaned well and dried. Remove all labels. Suitable containers are envelopes, paper bags for big seeds or seed heads, recycled pill bottles and/or cleaned glass jars.
IT’S ALL ABOUT BEING DRY AND DARK. When completely dry, store seeds in a paper envelop or bag or if you’re absolutely sure they’re as dry as possible, you can store in a pill bottle (with the label removed), or a suitably sized jar. Keep in a cupboard or away from direct sunlight till next planting season. If you have an additional fridge, go ahead and store them in it.
Heirloom Seeds
What is an Heirloom Seed? An heirloom seed is one that comes from an open pollinated (naturally pollinated) plant that has been passed down (sometimes for generations, and typically at least 50 years) without being crossbred or otherwise altered. My Romanian Giant Tomatoes are “Heirloom” to me, but by this definition – they are not a true “heirloom”. Though I have no doubt these seeds have been passed down for over 50 years, I can only attest to the years I personally have been growing them. Heirloom varieties produce plants with the same desirable qualities – like unique appearance, colour, flavour, texture and growing habits. When you find a plant you love, you want to protect it by propagating your own seed. Always ensure you’re saving seed from the healthiest, strongest plants that have thrived in their space.
Recap: features of an heirloom variety are that they are open pollinated and that they “breed true”, meaning that they retain the original traits from one generation to generation. To ensure that they stay “true”, to be grown for seed, that particular variety must be grown in isolation from other varieties of the same plant species.
What is meant by “open pollination”, and why should we care? Open pollinated plants – also called “natural pollination”, are pollinated without our intervention relying completely on insects, birds and wind, and occasionally by natural “self” pollination. Their seeds produce “true to type” new plants – genetically similar to the parent. For gardeners, this is the best way to continue growing plants with unique characteristics we’ve come to prefer. This doesn’t mean there cannot be a certain degree of ‘natural’ genetic variation among heirloom plants, quite the opposite – that’s part of adaptability to local conditions, and is desirable.
Heirloom vegetables are often considered to be more nutritious than hybrid versions of the same type.
SELF POLLINATING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES Many fruits and vegetables are self pollinating, meaning they don’t require assistance from insects or birds – like beans, peas, lettuce, peppers and tomatoes. Generally these are the best ones for beginner seed collectors, as they have true to type descendants. Tomatoes are consider self-pollinating because they have both male and female parts within the same flower, but they do require a little wind or vibrations to spread the pollen around. Though they don’t require pollinators, they may still attract them, which enhances over all plant health.
What vegetables are the easiest for beginners to collect seed from? Focus on open pollinated plants, preferably heirloom varieties – AVOID hybrid seeds and taking seeds from unknown origin produce.
We are more likely to have successful experiences with self-pollinating vegetables and fruits like the following – Legumes: beans and peas Leafy Greens: lettuce, spinach Root Vegetables: carrots, radishes and onions Brassicas: Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower (which is why they can produce under a netting that prohibits flying insects) Tomatoes and Peppers Grapes, strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, saskatoons, rhubarb
Why choosing self pollinating plants helps gardeners and over all harvest? We only need one plant to have a successful harvest. While not requiring pollinating insects, bees and other pollinators are still attracted to the plants for nectar and pollen – increasing overall productivity. With less reliance on external pollinators, it is possible to grow many of these fruits and vegetables in enclosed or protected areas and in urban communities.
Annual plants (meaning they grow one season only) produce mature seeds in a single growing season, and are easy to collect. Examples are legumes and flowers like dill, poppies, marigolds and nasturtiums.
Peas and beans: wait until the pods are dry and crisp, then harvest the seeds within.
Poppies with mature poppy pods inset. Wait till the pods are tan coloured and completely dry. You’ll be able to hear the tiny black seeds inside. I bring a bowl with me to shake them into.
Annual flowers: sweet peas, poppies, bachelor buttons, marigolds: wait till seeds are dry, gather in a bowl, clean and ensure they’re completely dry before storing in paper envelopes or bags. Label what, where from and when.
Nasturtiums: wait till seeds are dry to gather.
Seeds form at the base of the flowers and start out small and green. Over time, they’ll grow in size and eventually turn pale green, then light brown or beige, signaling that they’re nearing maturity. Gently pull them off the plant. If they resist, wait a few days. By the time the seeds are ready, many may have already fallen. Go ahead and collect them, ensuring they’re not damaged or starting to rot. Mature nasturtium seeds are the size of a pea, pale green to tan in colour with a wrinkled rough texture. I bring a large plastic bowl with me while collecting seed. It allows me to see what I’ve got and to sort through them, keeping only the best. If they aren’t completely dry when I pick them, then I dry them on a tea towel for a couple of days. Store in a paper bag or envelope, clearly labeled with what they are, when and where collected.
Chives and onions: they will bolt, save the seed Spinach and other greens: they will ‘bolt’ (meaning it puts out a strong, tall stem and flowers to produce seeds). Allow the seeds to dry and gather.
Cucumbers: Allow fruit to ripen fully – yellow and soft texture. Cut open and remove seeds into sieve. Agitate and rinse. Spread on paper towel to dry completely.
Tomatoes: Allow the fruit to ripen fully, then scoop the seeds out. Option #1: fermenting – scoop the seeds and gel into a jar, add some water and let sit at room temperature for 3 or 4 days. A layer of mould will form, which tells you that fermentation has broken down the seed’s protective coating. Drain-rinse-swish, drain-rinse-swish again. then pour into a fine sieve and rinse till clean. Spread out on a paper towel to dry completely. Label and place in a sealed container. Option #2: scoop seeds and gel out into a sieve. Agitate and rinse a few times. Spread on paper towel to dry completely. Label and place in sealed container. Peppers: Collect seeds from fully mature, ripe peppers.
The crisp cheery white and yellow of the daisy-like FEVERFEW flowers in front of the purples of chives, cornflowers and Lupins.
Biennial plants (meaning they grow two seasons, flowering the second season), will produce mature seeds in the second growing season – also easy to collect from. Examples like feverfew, parsley and root crops like beets and carrots.
I rarely if ever collect the seed from biennial plants in my yard like feverfew. I do however, allow some flowers to go to seed, then I pinch them off and sprinkle them over the areas I want them to grow, trusting in nature to do the rest. She never lets me down. Next spring I’ll have a thousand little feverfew plants, so I can decide where I want them to grow and pull up the rest. The only reason I’d save some seed is if someone else wants it.
Collecting seed from Tomatoes – easiest thing ever!
Select the BEST specimen of the variety you want to save for next year. If its a small tomato, simply squish it and squeeze the seeds and pulp into a small glass jar or cup. If its a bigger tomato, cut it and scoop out the pulpy part containing all the seed – into a small glass jar. 3 methods: 1. If you have few – spread the seed onto a paper towel and let them dry.
2. If you have lots – put them in a fine strainer and rinse them well to remove the pulpy parts. You can let them dry in the strainer, or spread on a paper towel to dry.
3. Ferment. Squeeze the seed and pulp into a small jar. Add water and agitate by stirring vigorously. Let sit a couple of days – mould will form on top, simply scoop it off, then strain the seed and spread out onto paper towel to dry.
I’ve done all three, but could never see the value in taking the time to ferment, when it appeared to me that the end result was the same. I’ve read compelling evidence recently however, that claims the additional step of fermenting lowers the odds of the seed carrying disease forward. That extra precaution sounds worthwhile to me. I’m converted.
Regardless of the method you decide on, the seed must be DRIED. I often just leave it on the paper towel, write the name, date and any other details on it, then roll it up and store in a jar or a paper envelop.
an excellent self help video on collecting seed. Keep in mind that he’s on Vancouver Island in zone 8 when he talks about winter. Central Alberta is zone 3b to 4a. But seed collecting methods are pretty standard.
a good summary of saving and storing several different types of garden seed Keep in mind that he is in zone 5b in Colorado, but collecting the seed is pretty standard.
If you’re new to saving seed, I really hope you’ll pick a few easy ones to save this year. It’s a rewarding task. If you’re already a serious seed collector, then try one fruit or vegetable you’ve never saved before. Share some of your favourites with a friend. I’d love to hear about your experiences. Please comment below.
Spanakopita is a delicious savoury Greek pie made of perfectly crispy layers of phyllo (fee’- low) dough and a soft filling of spinach and feta cheese. Spanaki = spinach, pita = pie, so quite literally it means “spinach pie”. I’ve learned that there are as many different recipes as there are Greek grammas. Kind of like cabbage rolls, and just like the BEST cabbage rolls are the ones your gramma used to make, so it is with spanakopita (spana-KO-pita). I’m sharing with you the way I was taught by a family friend Erie Kourounotis – with a few modifications I’ve made over the years. Yes, it takes a little time to assemble, but it is much easier to make than you might expect. *tip: I find that its better if it sits at least half an hour from the oven before served. That helps the filling to set, and makes the crust easier to cut.
Most of the time in my house Spanakopita is the main dish, with perhaps a Greek salad on the side, and probably some tzatziki or hummus to serve with it, but it also makes a great side dish for a big family dinner, or to bring with you as a potluck dish.
Spanakopita can be made in a large 9×15 baking dish (usually cut into 15 pieces) or individually in the form of rolls or triangular hand pies. I like them in the individual hand pies, but I’ve never made them like that. However you prefer them, that are always a soft delicious spinach-cheese filling wrapped with golden, crispy phyllo pastry.
Crust Phyllo dough is layered sheets of tissue-thin pastry. You buy it in the freezer section of the grocery store, near other frozen pie crusts. It comes tightly folded in a long thin box, many extremely thin layers of crispy pastry. Keep frozen until you use it, but thaw it out several hours in advance.
Filling The key ingredients in a classic spanakopita recipe are spinach (or other leafy greens) and feta cheese. Erie taught me to use fresh greens, but I discovered that I can fit a lot more greens in if I lightly steam them first, then roughly chop. You can also use frozen spinach – thawed first and completely strained. Squeeze ALL liquid out or you will have a soggy spanakopita (bleh). I generally prefer to use greens I’ve freshly picked from the garden, and lots of them. Swiss Chard, Amaranth, assorted other garden greens like tatsoi or bok choi – or whatever you have on hand.
I had some greens in the fridge from a day or two ago, and picked lots of fresh greens in the morning from the garden. Lightly steam just until they wilt and are a beautiful bright emerald colour. Then coarsely chop to make it easier to incorporate the remaining ingredients throughout.
To add flavour: dill, onions and garlic. I use a LOT of dill – at least a full cup, depending on how big the batch is. I also use garlic and onion. I know some people use parsley, I don’t. No particular reason except that Erie – didn’t.
I picked a bunch of dill in the morning, snipped the green ferny parts off the stems, swished in cool water to clean and then drained. Finely chopped.
To bind all ingredients together: eggs. I never use salt because the feta cheese is quite salty already, but I do like pepper.
OLIVE OIL. Because you must. Spanakopita cannot be spanakopita without olive oil. * I have seen people put olive oil in the filling – I don’t do that. I use it all on the pastry.
Assemble everything in place, beat the eggs separately, then mix into coarsely chopped greens. In the picture in back: eggs. Left to right: olive oil, at least 1 cup, crumbled feta, freeze dried chopped onions* and minced garlic, loose Italian parsley (I don’t generally add parsley but I picked it for another dish and I had some left over so I added it), chopped fresh dill.
SPANAKOPITA
– Enough for a 9×15 glass baking dish Ingredients: – package of phyllo pastry, thawed at least 6 hours. I usually take it out of the freezer the night before and thaw in the fridge. Set it on the counter while you assemble your filling, BUT DON’T TAKE OUT OF ITS WRAPPING, otherwise it will dry out.
Doesn’t matter which brand. I’ve tried several and so far, they’re all pretty much the same in my opinion.
– green leafy vegetables: spinach, Swiss Chard, spinach, Asian greens of all sorts, lambs quarters, amaranth (pig weed), orach, . . . . usually I use an assortment of whatever I can find ready in my garden. You can even add a little bit of kale. The more you use, the thicker your pie will be with beautiful, wholesome GREENS! I shoot for at least 10 cups of finished steamed greens. – 3 or 4 eggs (depending on how much green you’re using) – 2 or 3 cupsfeta cheese, crumbled (depending on how much green you’re using) – LOTS of fresh dill weed (1-2 cups finely chopped) – 2 to 4 cloves garlic minced – 1 large onion chopped (in this picture I used freeze dried onions because I didn’t have any fresh garden onions on hand) – 1 Tablespoon pepper (you can use less if you’re not a huge pepper fan). NO salt. – olive oil, probably about a cup(ish).
Thoroughly mix everything together. I find the easiest way to do this is with my hands.
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Wash greens and set aside to steam or blanch. Fill clean sink with COLD water to plunge your steam greens in to stop the cooking process. Use ice if desired.
2. Heat a large skillet over high flame, to steam your greens in. Add one cup water and bring it to a boil.
3. Coarsely chop washed greens and add large handfuls to the HOT water in skillet. Cover with lid to steam, and cook JUST TILL vegetables become a brilliant bright green. Don’t over cook, you’re just looking for it to be slightly wilted. Remove from heat and plunge into cold water to cool quickly.
4. Repeat till all the greens are steamed and cooled. Strain well, and roughly chop again. Be sure to squeeze all remaining water out of them.
5. Add strained greens to a large bowl for mixing, and set aside.
6. In the same skillet, wipe out the water and heat a 1/3 cup olive oil. Saute chopped onion and minced garlic till soft and translucent. Add to bowl of cooled, strained greens.
7. In a small bowl beat the eggs and add to greens and toss to thoroughly combine by hand.
8. Crumble feta cheese, and add to bowl of greens, add chopped dill and black pepper. Toss by hand to thoroughly combine.
9. Pour about a cup of olive oil in a shallow bowl that you can dip your hand into. Unroll your
Assembling your masterpiece:
10. Lightly brush oil over the inside of baking dish. Place two to three sheets of phyllo dough in the pan folded over in half to fit; use a pastry brush or your hand in oil to lightly brush the oil onto pastry. Repeat this step with 5 or more phyllo sheets (use at least 6 layers, I usually use half the package of phyllo). Plan to wipe oil over top every 2nd or 3rd layer of single ply door.
Dip your hand in the oil and drizzle it all over the surface, spreading it with your hand.
11. Spread the mixture of greens evenly over the phyllo sheets, gently patting down. I usually end up with about 2 inches deep of greens. The more the better, they’ll still cook down a bit.
12. Cover the vegetable-cheese layer with remaining phyllo sheets, brushing each one with olive oil. Tuck the excess phyllo dough into the edges. Make sure the top is brushed completely with oil.
*hint: purists oil between every layer, but that is a lotta oil. I’ve had spanakopita I’ve purchase from specialty bakeries that dripped oil when you eat them. That is too much oil for me. I know I’m killing tradition, but you can make these kinds of decisions when it’s your own kitchen.
13. * optional: you can use a knife to score the top of the phyllo (don’t cut all the way through, just through the top phyllo sheets) to create about 12 – 15 pieces.
14. Bake in preheated 350F oven for 45-60 minutes or until the phyllo turns golden brown. If its browning too quickly, cover loosely with tin foil for the last 15 or so minutes. Remove from oven and allow it to set 15-30 minutes to set up. Then, finish cutting into pieces.
15. You can enjoy this dish warm, or as leftovers at room temperature or even cold.
If you didn’t use all the pastry, wrap any remaining phyllo layers back up and put into original package to refrigerate. They don’t last very long in the fridge. I usually simply divide the package in half for top and bottom, and use the whole package in one large recipe. Or if you have enough, make a smaller dish in addition to the large one.
give it at least 15-20 out of the oven before you finish cutting the pieces
I’ve been making this dish since about 1990, and at the beginning Dan wasn’t a big fan. That suited me just find; he’d have a piece at supper and that was that. I wrapped the remaining pieces individually in plastic to take for lunch the rest of the week. When Mom moved in, we did pretty much the same thing, with slightly less leftover.
finished spanakopita – ready to eat. I recommend serving it NOT hot so the filling sticks together better.
One day at dinner, Dan had a second piece – he claimed he was “starting to really like it“. But I had a system, and in my system there was no room for Dan to start “really liking it“. I told him so, but we had turned a corner – never to turn the clock back. Dan is usually a little more reluctant to try new foods than I am. Nevertheless, he had turned that corner and I needed to adjust to having less leftovers. I always tell people that “Dan is allergic to anything ‘green’. He thinks if green food touches his fork he’ll die.” This is only half joking. When I met him the only thing green he’d eat was iceberg lettuce (hardly green), and fresh peas (if he himself stood in his grampa’s pea patch). He’s come a lonnnnnng way baby!
I make spanakopita as often as I can in the summer time, using whatever green leafy vegetables are ready in my garden. But I specifically grow swiss chard for that reason. I think of Erie K. every time I do, and I am grateful to her for teaching me how to make it. It truly has become a household favourite. I started making it because I loved it, and one by one over the years, each individual in our family went from thinking it was okay to acquiring a serious taste for spanakopita. Even Dan!
I hope you’ll give this dish a try, Please let me know how it works out.
This seemingly trivial photo from years ago makes my heart happy. 14 year old Jonas washing the glass bricks for me. 2 year old Jack hanging around him, watching and chatting it up, Jonas patiently including him and listening. This speaks sermons to me.
A sermon about two cousins on either end of the age span (Jonas is the 4th oldest, Jack is the youngest of 19), and what they have to offer each other.
A sermon about the value of sharing even the insignificant moments of everyday life.
A sermon about the example of service. Jonas is doing a service for me and Jack is learning.
A sermon about Jonas’ patience in his little cousin wanting to hang around him.
A sermon about the ease of familial love, comfort and yea, even loyalty.
A sermon about devotion. Not just Jack’s devotion to this big boy hero in his life, but of Jonas’ devotion to him as his little cousin, who some might say has nothing in common with him.
It’s a sermon of what the world needs more of.
One day Jonas will be all grown up and away, living his adult life, and Jack will be a bigger little boy who remembers him, and looks forward to the times he comes home. Perhaps they’ll play board games together like Jonas does with his uncle who is just a little more than 12 years older than him (who incidentally is Jack’s father).
A sermon about Jack’s spot in the cousins lineup. #19. Our baby’s baby. The youngest cousin. How he is surrounded by people who love him, and adore him, and patiently include him in the little things they do.
From the kitchen where I was working, I observed these two and grabbed my camera. This snapshot is a mere blink of what was going on and what I would like to have captured. It was precious and I wish I had chosen to video it.
It’s March as I write this, so lets talk about some of the earliest vegetables we can grow where I live – in the Edmonton, Alberta area. Spinach, peas, and onions are great choices for early-season planting as they are relatively cold-tolerant and actually thrive in cooler temperatures. This allows us to plant them as soon as the soil is workable in spring, even when there’s still a chance of frost.
1. all cool-season crops
Spinach, garden peas and onions are cool-season crops. They grow best in the cooler temperatures of early spring and late summer. Garden peas thrive in temperatures between 10-18°C (50-65°F), and onions also perform well in cooler weather, with optimal growth occurring during spring and late summer / early fall.
2. similar soil requirements
All three prefer well-drained, fertile soil with a pH level of 6.0 to 7.0. They benefit from soil enriched with organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure. Proper soil preparation helps provide the necessary nutrients and ensures good drainage, preventing waterlogged roots. All of them will do better when mulched. This protects the soil and the plant, reducing the need for continual watering, and the competition of weeds. It also keeps the soil soft and less prone to compact.
3. similar hardiness to frost
Planting early in the season, even before the last frost will not hurt any of them, so you can get a jump on the growing season with them. All three will tolerate light frosts, especially spinach and peas, which are famous for being frost-tolerant during their early growth stages. Onions not as much, but still pretty hardy.
4. similar planting time
Spinach and Peas You can plant spinach while there is still snow on the ground. Go ahead and plant in March if you want. I have an area in my garden that is close to the house, so it warms up sooner than the main garden. Snow melts there first. Its the perfect spot to plant spinach. Spinach likes full sun to partial shade and optimal soil temperatures are 5 – 20 degrees Celcius (45-70 degrees Fahrenheit). The sun warms the soil while you’re not looking, so don’t waste those precious spinach-days just because you don’t want to sit outside in the sun yourself yet. Plant up to a month before the last expected frost day, and up to a week or two after at most. If you haven’t planted your spinach by the end of May, save your seeds and plant next year.
I’ve had great success planting spinach in mid-September for an early spring harvest. Many years ago, I learned that spinach could be planted in the fall, so I decided to give it a try. I planted it at the beginning of September, and within a couple of weeks, the spinach sprouted and began to leaf out. I was thrilled—until an early snowstorm hit and stuck around. I shrugged it off, thinking, “Well, that’s just fall for you. Sometimes that happens.” But the following March, as the snow began to melt, I was amazed to find those little spinach plants still green! As the sun warmed the days, they sprang back to life. By the time I would typically be planting my garden, we were already harvesting spinach! What started as a fortunate accident became a total game changer for me and deepened my respect for this hardy northern vegetable. Spinach is a surprisingly tough plant, and it really shows how adaptable it can be to different growing conditions. Planting it at the end of the season could yield a late summer harvest if the weather holds out, but if the weather turns too cold, you still have the perfect head start for early spring harvests.
Spinach and peas should be (as in – prefer to be) planted early in the spring once the soil has thawed and can be worked. Although I hesitate to mention a date because we have to read the weather and every year is different, I would still suggest that by the end of April, you’d be safe in planting both. At that time, there is still a high probability for a surprise late frost or even unexpected snow, but don’t be deterred – spinach and peas laugh at spring snow. Spring snow is wet and heavy, and doesn’t last long. I always consider it winter’s last bluff. Winter’s over and it knows it, but sometimes it just feels better about things if it can get the last word in. That’s okay. Let it. You’ll be picking both by the time other plants are just poking their heads above ground – then we can see who got the last laugh.
Spinach first – mid April or even earlier. Peas a week or two later – toward the end of April. Onions closer to the beginning of May.
Onions While not as cold-tolerant as spinach or peas, onions can still withstand slightly cooler temperatures and can be planted early, especially when choosing varieties specifically bred for early harvest. Plan to plant as soon as the soil warms up in early May.
I usually plant my onions from seedlings which I either purchase or start indoors six to eight weeks in advance, or ‘sets’. Seedlings are young plants, while onion ‘sets’ are small, immature bulbs sold in mesh bags. Sets are grown from seed, then harvested and dried before they fully mature. They look like little mini onions, and you usually buy them in a mesh or paper bag. Both methods give your onions a head start, increasing the likelihood of a full harvest.
Our growing season simply isn’t long enough to plant seeds directly in the garden—you’ll likely be disappointed if you try.
5. Planting
Spinach Plant spinach, in rich, well drained soil in a SUNNY location. Just because it likes cool weather does not mean it doesn’t need sun. You can plant in rows, or by broadcasting which is what I do, as my place for it is relatively small. I sow the seeds sparsely allowing for room between each plant and cover with a thin layer of nice fluffy soil. Water well.
As they grow, thin the young plants out to two or three inches apart. Don’t waste the thinnings, add them to your salad or throw into just about anything you happen to be making for dinner. Keep soil moist with mulch. Test the moisture level with your hands from time to time – you may be surprised at how well the mulch protects the soil.
Peas Peas should be planted about as deep as the seed is big, and about an inch apart. Planting in elevated rows keeps the soil warmer, and as will all vegetables keep them mulched throughout the season. As they grow, go ahead and thin them out if they’re too crowded – young pea sprouts / plants are tender and tasty. Add to a salad or stir fries.
Peas need something to climb or they’ll laze all over the place getting into everybody’s business and causing trouble. A trellis, some netting that you’ve staked up, some tall interwoven sticks, …. be creative, just give them a place to grow UPward.
Onions Onion seedlings are planted to the top of the white ‘bulb area’, and onion bulbs (sets) are planted about an inch deep. Both are planted about two inches apart, in a nice SUNNY location with loose, loamy, well draining soil that has been enriched with good compost. You’ll notice on onion sets that there is a distinct root end and a sprout (pointy) end. Plant root down, point end up. Once they start growing, you can (and you should) use them as you would green onions, continually thinning them out till they’re between four to six inches apart. This allows for good airflow and room to spread out.
As with all vegetables, plant in rows that are elevated, and keep mulched throughout the season to maintain moisture, prevent weeds and protect the soil. Rotate their location every spring to prevent disease – as you would every other vegetable in your garden.
6. Keeping them healthy
Pay attention to your vegetables. You should be checking them from time to time throughout the year, and can often be picking tender young plants for weeks. This regular care will help you monitor for things like pests or disease. Proper rotating of vegetables each year is a good practice to prevent soil borne diseases and pests that may winter over. Keeping them thinned allows for good air flow and natural pest control.
Learning about good companion plants and trying to keep ‘friends’ together makes for good and happy garden neighbourhoods.
Over watering, not watering enough or watering inconsistently invites distress and disease.
6. Good Companions
Spinach doesn’t really need too many companions as it is happy to grow when most plants are just waking up in the spring, and there aren’t many pests active yet either.
Peas do well in the company of beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, lettuce, marigolds, peppers and potatoes. I have peas planted in amongst my cucumbers, climbing on the same trellis.
Onions do well in the company of beets, brassicas of all kinds, carrots, dill, lettuce, tomatoes and even strawberries. I have a large chive plant growing in the middle of my strawberry patch.
XXX – Peas do NOT like Onions, so keep them separated. Apparently, onions stunt the growth of peas.
7. Harvesting
Spinach You can harvest during the entire growing season, beginning by thinning the plants out and eating the baby plants. As they grow bigger, clip the larger outer leaves first allowing the inner leaves to mature. Harvest frequently so as not to waste anything. As the weather grows warmer the spinach will be less happy and start to bolt (got to seed). You’ll see that seeds will start to form on the top spikes. This signals that the plants are in distress and are preparing to die. You can let one or two go to seed if you want to collect the seed, but pull the rest up to eat while they’re still good.
Peas Peas are typically harvested when the pods are plump with nice round peas formed inside, but still tender. The difference between tender and old can be a matter of days so be attentive. There’s nothing as wonderful as fresh tender garden peas, but old peas are dry, tough and yucky. You can save a few plants to let the seed ripen to use for next year, but keep on top of the other plants. In the Edmonton area, your peas should be ready to harvest in the first part of July. Don’t let them get old.
Onions I pick onions all summer long, from the early thinnings to the odd one that isn’t quite mature enough to harvest, but is needed for supper. But to truly “harvest”, onions are ready when the tops fall over and begin to go brown – clearly trying to communicate to you that something has changed. The bulbs will be plump and mature. Don’t be in a hurry. Let them die back and dry in the garden for a while. You can pull them out, but if the soil doesn’t easily, loosen a little with your garden fork.
Lay them in a sheltered dry spot to further dry and cure for from two to four weeks. Curing removes moisture and protects onions from rot and mildew, maximizing their storage life. While curing, keep them out of excessive heat and prevent them from rain or other moisture. When they are completely cured, you can transfer then to a container allowing for good air circulation in a cool spot.
Recipe: Spinach, Garden Pea and Onion Salad
2 cups fresh peas (or frozen or freeze dried) 2 cups fresh baby spinach leaves 1/2 chopped fresh onion (red or white), or equal amount of green onions or finely chopped winter onion 1/4 cup pesto Lightly steam your peas if desired, or use fresh from the garden. If using freeze dried peas, refresh with water till tender (will only take a few minutes). Use whatever onion is growing in your garden. Often times, I’ll harvest an immature onion that I’m thinning out and use the bulb and greens together. Place peas, spinach and onion in a bowl and toss with pesto to lightly coat everything. Top with some crumbled feta or slivered fresh parmesan cheese. Enjoy
Other cool weather crops that you can plant early
Other cool weather vegetables to plant early are: beets, radishes, swiss chard and carrots. These can generally be in the ground by the beginning of May. By the middle of the month, plant your potatoes. Warm weather plants like the soil to be warm when you tuck them in. Wait another week for tender plants like beans and corn. Tomatoes are native to South America, so they like it hot. I wait till the long range forecast is for WARM weather to plant them out in the garden. Tomatoes are an important part of my growing season, and I don’t want to risk losing them to a rogue cold snap. I plant my cucumbers and squash outside about the same time as the tomatoes – after all danger of frost is past.
It’s not too early for starting to plan your garden.
I cannot tell you how many times I’ve had the “one-and-done” conversation with people who are rightly concerned about investing in long term food storage but don’t want to be inconvenienced by it.
Being compelled enough to invest money into food storage, buying a bunch of it all at one time, and then (having their conscience soothed), put it away and forget about it. Their thinking is that they have done their due diligence, with minimal inconvenience and now can get on with life giving no more thought to it.
The first time I heard this philosophy was a friend many years ago. They had learned of a new brand of food being sold locally, that had a very long shelf life. It was kinda pricey but the shelf life was attractive. They bought a year’s supply for their family of four, stacked it into a corner of their basement, and brushed off their hands so-to-speak. They were more than content with this marvelous plan; they had their food storage and didn’t have their life complicated with having to eat it. Simple. I admit, the idea was a little unsettling to me; it didn’t seem that life could really be that easy. Fast forward a couple decades. My friend had passed away of cancer. Their children had grown up. Her husband had remarried and moved to a different city. He called me one day. They’d had a house fire! All was lost including their long term food storage, which he had carried with him ten years before. Insurance had provided the money to replace it and he wanted to do exactly the same thing they’d done before.
1. USE IT
The reason he called me? Because he knew that at the time I sold Thrive Life foods, a relatively new brand of freeze dried food. “Just give me a reasonably varied assortment of food like I had before.” he said. He had no intention of ‘wasting’ it by eating it. It was intended as 100% food insurance, to be packed away again. We talked about the fact that most of the food he had depended on to ease his conscience for so long, was well over 20 years old, and not all of it was freeze dried, meaning it didn’t have the 25 year shelf life he thought it did. We talked about what he’d had previously – including milk and eggs (neither of which at the time he bought it, claimed to have the 25 year shelf life he believed everything had). As a friend, my counsel was to USE some of the food he was buying for two very important reasons: 1) to KNOW what one had, and 2) to know HOW to use it. Long term food storage is not the same as buying perishable food from the grocery store. It requires a little different ‘thinking’ to get used to it. He was adamant about “not bothering with all that”. What he had done two decades ago was conscience soothing and he wanted more of that.
We came up with a reasonable selection, and it was sent to him – which he stacked in a corner somewhere to never think about again.
His details involving the house fire may have been unique, but his philosophy was not. I have had that same conversation with many people over the years.
them: “Oh freeze dried food! I have a ton of that in my basement.” me: “Great. How do you like it?” them: “Oh, I have no idea; I’ve never used it.” me: “Why not?” them: “Because its FOOD STORAGE! And besides, I haven’t got a clue what to do with it.” me: “How long have you had it?” them: “We got it the year after we were married.” me: “How long have you been married?” them: “37 years.” me: “Wow. You know its 12 years past its expiry right? You don’t have milk and eggs in there do you? them: “Yes.” me: “Well, I know the food you’re talking about, and the shelf life of milk used to be 5 years, and eggs was 3 years. Those are over 30 years past their expiry date. You might wanna dispose of them. . . . . I wouldn’t even open them if I were you, just throw them out. . . . . So, . . . just curious, when were you planning to figure out how to use this food anyway?”
I have another friend who had pretty much the same idea. She had a lotta long-term-food-storage that she’d never had any intention of using, but a few years ago it became alarmingly evident to her that it was waaaay past its prime. She doesn’t want to waste it, (and waste all the money she spent on it), she wanted to learn how to use it. She had no recollection of how long she’d had the food (decades she admits), and there was no date on the cans. Apparently the labeling laws have changed since then.
My counsel? To USE it of course. I promised to come over and show her how to use them. We opened up her first can – broccoli. It was absolutely indistinguishable. Looking nothing like broccoli should, and smelling terrible. Nothing anyone would want to eat. “What can I do with it?” she asked. “Throw it in the compost.” was my suggestion. We opened a can of spinach with similar results.
On the left is dehydrated spinach that was deliberately left on the shelf waiting for some emergency that would justify opening it. No one could remember how old it was, and the owner mistakenly believed it was freeze dried when in actual fact it was dehydrated (with a much shorter shelf life). This is what happens when you don’t USE the food you store. The result was a lot of wasted food, and a total waste of the money spent to acquire it. The spinach on the right is a 7 year old can recently opened. It is what freeze dried spinach SHOULD look like today, tomorrow, next year and 17 years from now.
To be fair, the food we opened was much older than it was ever intended to be. It is not the manufacturer’s fault that the food was not used when it should have been. It is the result of faulty “save-and-protect” reasoning. But on the other hand, from the beginning she never knew what she had, what it looked like, or how to use it anyway. Ironically that scarcity mentality intended to not ‘waste’ food by using it, resulted in ultimate waste. Wasted food is wasted dollars. It’s simple math.
I well remember that same brand of freeze dried food when it was a new thing, trying to wrap my mind around the concept of it and trying to justify the cost. I bought some, used it, didn’t see the value at the time, nor the point. As the science of freeze drying got better over the ensuing years, the food got better, and the nutrition got better.
2. FIND THE BEST
In 2009, when I first started buying Thrive Life (the brand I finally settled on after trying several on the market), their guarantee was that the produce went from field to freezer in less than 24 hours. I was impressed with that. By the time I put that into print, the company corrected me – their guarantee was now less than 12 hours. “Can’t get better than that” I thought. Produce picked ripe, washed, peeled, chopped and into the freezer in less than 12 hours? Incredible. “Can’t get better than that” I told people. Wait! In another year, they raised the bar again. Produce picked at perfection when all nature’s goodness was at its height, and then washed, peeled, sliced and into the freezer in less than 6 hours! (usually 2 to 4 hours). Amazing. NOW with a pretty good degree of confidence I can be sure “it really canNOT get better than that!”
In summer months my household eats directly from my backyard garden. I am hard pressed to get produce from my garden to the table in four hours! Truly it cannot get better than two to four hours.
What does that mean to you and me? Why is that such a big deal?
Because all fruits and vegetables begin to deteriorate within the first hour after harvest. That’s why. They begin the process of deteriorating in colour, texture and nutritional value immediately. To pick a fruit before its fully developed is to start out with a handicap. Thrive Life has a commitment to excellence that forbids picking produce before its ripe. Then its a race against the clock. That produce is washed, peeled (if needed), sliced or chopped and flash frozen to -40C within four hours! In that frozen state the food is transferred to a facility where all the remaining moisture is removed in the second step of the two step process of “freeze-drying”.
When spinach or broccoli or mangoes or strawberries or whatever, goes into that BPA free can at the end, it is more nutritious than those same ‘fresh’ fruits we buy in the produce department of our local grocery stores – that in nearly all cases were picked before they were ripe, and have been shipped a thousand+ miles to ripen on the supermarket shelves sometime in the following week or two. Without any moisture, that food is sealed in an oxygen free can, giving it an exceptionally long shelf life. Zero moisture + zero oxygen = zero decomposition. So when I open a can of peaches that was packed 7 years ago, it is as nutritionally sound as it was the day it was sealed. If I open that can another 7 years from now, it is still the same. THAT is what we’re talking about. And that’s why timing is such a big deal.
“freeze drying food is not rocket science”
3. Benefits of using freeze dried food NOW
FAMILIARITY Becoming familiar with freeze dried food while our lives are comfortable and predicable is so important. Sometimes people fool themselves into believing they’ll use it when they have to, but a crises is not the time to start experimenting with foundational necessities like meals. There are bound to be some differences between what you’re using now and freeze dried food. Familiarity brings confidence, and confidence removes fear. When we are prepared, there is no fear.
KNOWLEDGE With familiarity comes knowledge and skill, opening a whole new world of possibilities. Learning how to use freeze dried food will make meal preparation a lot quicker and easier. Those fruits and vegetables are already washed and chopped, ready to eat straight out of the can, or to throw into your soup, casserole, omelette or stir fries. The cheese is already shredded, the meats are already cooked – ready to refresh and add to your meal. You’d be surprised at how streamlined your meals become. You can have dinner on the table in minutes.
ZERO WASTE Not only will you reduce the waste of produce in the fridge going bad before you can get to it, and the waste of trimming a good portion of your broccoli, cauliflower and peppers etc, but you will eliminate the waste of those cans of food timing out. Think of the waste that my friend experienced having to throw out most of her ‘shelf stable’ canned food. My other friend who replaced it all after the fire – he would have had to replace it all anyway, fire or no fire – because most of it was long expired before the fire.
When you regularly USE your food storage, it replaces perishable groceries that would other wise go into the trash. The North American average for household kitchen waste is up to 40%. That’s an incredible figure to wrap your mind around. If you’re the average North American consumer, up to 40% of the food you buy is going into the garbage! What if you could reduce that waste? How much money would YOU save in a month, in a year? Take a minute (knowing your monthly food budget), and use some simple math to roughly calculate what that might look like to you. Imagine what you could do with an extra $3000 or $4000 a year! You could probably have your food storage built up in a very short time for one thing.
CONVENIENCE One of the things we will depend on in any emergency is having food that will be convenient to prepare with fewer resources than we’re currently accustomed to. Knowing what that food is and what kind of variety is available ahead of time is helpful. Also knowing what your family prefers and doesn’t prefer ahead of time is pretty helpful too. You don’t want to learn that when its too late.
4. SCARCITY vs ABUNDANCE
A can of dehydrated cabbage, about twenty years past its expiration. This is the kind of thing that never should have happened.
A scarcity mindset is a way of thinking that focuses on the idea that there is a limited supply; one becomes obsessed with protecting it. Its a trap many of us fall into when it comes to food storage: “This is food storage. It must be protected.” But we’ve already seen where that thinking leads, and its a slippery slope. When the supply is not being replenished, protection mode kicks in. So what is the antidote?
Rotation. Rotation is a “1st in-1st out” mindset. It is continuously using and replacing. It is treating your food storage like groceries and your groceries like food storage. It is the philosophy you’ve heard me repeat many times if you’ve read anything I’ve ever written on the subject: Store what you EAT, and Eat what you STORE.
If you are constantly adding to your food supply every time you buy groceries, and constantly eating from it, then replacing it, you are ROTATING. This keeps everything fresh and updated, saving you money and providing peace of mind. Your food storage becomes an organic thing with a pulse, not an inorganic box of dead food that nobody wants that cost you too much money. Consider a different perspective.
5. CHANGE THE WAY YOU LOOK AT IT
When you change the way you look at it, everything about it changes. The missing link between the SCARCITY mindset and the ABUNDANCE mindset is ROTATION. Rotation of “using and replacing” helps us regain control, and allows us to see abundance instead of scarcity. Change the way you’re looking at things.
I truly believe that when we are prepared, there is no fear. It is a personal mission of mine to help people gain the freedom and peace of mind that BEING PREPARED offers. And that includes FOOD STORAGE. Part of that is to help people stop wasting the food they purchased and are currently purchasing, and to help people acquire their food storage in the best possible way, getting the best prices and benefits in the process.
This is a course of action I have followed my entire adult life; it is very important to me. In the process, I discovered Thrive Life freeze dried food in 2008, and by the beginning of 2009, I brought it into our family bookstore – Generations Bookstore in Edmonton, Alberta. One of our major sidelines was food storage and emergency preparedness so it was a perfect fit. Since that time, we sold the store, but I kept Thrive Life with me as a personal consultant. I believe it is the best brand on the market today for high quality freeze dried food, and I am committed to helping people benefit in the same way I do from it.
In our house I’ve put it to the test. We’ve used it almost daily since those early years, and I know of which I speak.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on food storage and all things related. I welcome any questions you might have about Thrive Life specifically. Who knows? You might even want to become a consultant yourself.
I don’t know who had the bright idea of making zucchini into a cake, but they must have had a few get away from them. I think we can all relate, and I’m sure everyone has their favourite recipe. This one may have become my favourite this year, this month, this week! It is rich and delectably CHOCOLATE; light (from the eggs and leavening) and moist (from the zucchini). The perfect combination of everything.
You don’t have to be a visionary to know that THIS
can be THIS:
but it does require a little bit of previous experience because they don’t look like they should belong together. *Don’t waste small zucchini by making them into dessert, eat those fresh out of hand, in a salad or grilled with a little bit of parmesan on them. Baking is reserved for the ones that get too big.
Double Rich Chocolate Zucchini Cake
Begin by peeling your (too big) zucchini, then cut into manageable pieces and shred. Measure out 4 cups shredded zucchini and set aside. If you only have 3 cups go for it anyway, but don’t use more than 4 cups – there’s such thing as too much of a good thing. Preheat your oven to 350 F. Lightly butter a 9×13 pan or two loaf pans. I also add a sheet of parchment paper to the bottom.
Sift together in a large mixing bowl the following: 2 cups flour 1 cup cocoa (I know it seems like a lot, trust me – its okay) 1 scant teaspoon baking soda 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt Ensure all are thoroughly blended.
In another bowl, beat together: 5 eggs Add 1 cup white sugar 1/2 cup brown sugar and mix well. Add 1/2 cup plain yogurt (or sour cream) 1 Tablespoon vanilla 1/2 cup vegetable oil Mix well.
Pour liquid ingredients into dry ingredients. And mix by hand to make sure all flour is moistened. Add 3-4 cups shredded zucchini (see above) and stir to combine.
Add 1 + 1/2 cup REAL chocolate chips and stir in. I also add sunflower seeds (I can’t help it).
Pour into your prepared pans (see above). I use a 9×13 glass baking dish. * optional: Sprinkle another 1/2 cup REAL chocolate chips over top.
Place on the middle rack of your oven. Set the timer for 20 minutes, then turn your cake or loaf pans around and bake for another 20 minutes. The loaf pans will take longer because they’re deeper. Check again and gently touch the middle of your cake. If it feels firm and bounces back a little, then test with a toothpick for doneness. If the toothpick comes out clean then remove from the oven and let it cool in the pan on a rack. Don’t rush it. Let it bake for a little longer if needed. Check every five minutes. Don’t under cook, but don’t over cook either. Once its firm to the touch, be sure to test with a toothpick.
Good Ol’ Fashioned Zucchini Cake with Raisins
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F Sift together and set aside: 2 cups flour 1T cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder
beat 3 large eggs add 1 cup sugar 1 cup oil 1 teaspoon vanilla mix well.
Add 2 cups shredded zucchini and mix to thoroughly combine Add sifted dry ingredients and stir to combine. Fold in 1/2 cup raisins
Pour batter into buttered 9×13 baking pan and place in middle of hot oven. Bake 40-45 minutes or until centre bounces back when lightly pressed. Insert toothpick as a final check. When it comes out clean, cake is done. Remove from heat and allow to cool in pan.
If you decide to frost it, make a wonderful cream cheese icing with 8 ounces cream cheese – beat till smooth with hand mixer slowly add 2 cups icing sugar beating all along to avoid lumps. Add a tablespoon of yogurt, sour cream or milk if needed to keep the icing from being too dry. Spread over cake after its fully cooled. Serve in cake pan.
Enjoy!
Which one is better? I am partial to the plain zucchini cake with raisins; it tastes like Sunday dinner dessert should. But the chocolate is extra special, so you have to have both in your life for different times.
“Preserving and storing garden produce extends the harvest season, reducing food waste, cutting grocery costs, and ensuring access to nutritious, homegrown food – bridging the gap between growing seasons (what our pioneer ancestors call ‘the hungry months’. It builds your level of self-reliance, providing food security against shortages, and enhancing emergency preparedness.
APPROPRIATE preserving methods retain more nutrients than many store-bought options, while allowing you to control ingredients, minimizing additives, preservatives and extra sugar. APPROPRIATE storage methods will allow your family to enjoy seasonal fruits and vegetables throughout the winter.
Below, we’ll discuss 6 different ways of preserving food and best storage methods suited to each food you grow in your backyard. We’ll also take a few cautionary side trips to ensure food safety.” – Cindy Suelzle
What is the Hungry Gap?
The hungry months (‘hungry gap’ or ‘hungry season’) refer to the time, usually between March and May, when stored supplies from the previous year’s harvest have run out, and before the new season’s crops are ready to be harvested. Historically, this was a time of food scarcity, with families being forced to rely on limited rations, forage for wild food, and eat nutrient-poor diets. Proper food preservation and storage aims to reduce or eliminate the hungry gap.
Right off the bat, let’s dispel a few common misconceptions that I observe over and over.
Myth 1: Harvest is at the end of summer. Sometimes new gardeners have the idea that gardening is like a sandwich. They expect to plant in the spring and harvest in the fall. Truth: If you’ve gardened for awhile, you know the truth is very different. Aside from the near daily attention of watering and weeding, you can begin eating out of your garden within the first few weeks after planting (in garden talk that’s almost immediately), and throughout the growing season. Harvest is an ongoing processall-season-long. That means you’re picking and eating of course, but also picking and freezing, picking and canning, picking and pickling or fermenting, and picking and dehydrating all that is not consumed right away.
Yes, there will be things you’ll be harvesting at summer’s end – like winter squash, root vegetables, apples, plums and grapes, but that doesn’t take into consideration all the other fruits and vegetables (especially garden greens) that you’ll miss if you wait.
Myth 2: Fresh food from the grocery store is “FRESH”.
In many cases, it often takes a week or more after harvest before produce arrives on our grocery store shelves, and this, after being picked before it’s ripe. Since all produce begins deteriorating within the hour it’s harvested, having it be two weeks from harvest before we even see it is a problem. Sometimes, preserved food might actually be more nutritious than the older perishable food in the produce department. Open your mind to some new considerations.
t doesn’t matter how good it was on the day it was harvested, if it doesn’t get taken care of immediately. All produce begins to deteriorate within the first hour of harvest, so remember – THE CLOCK IS TICKING!
Truth: The word “fresh” has been stretched and misused to define all sorts of things. The produce in the grocery stores should best be defined as ‘perishable’ instead of ‘fresh’. To be clear, I am not dissing perishable fruits and vegetables in the produce department of our favourite grocery stores. In Alberta, this is the only way we’re ever gonna enjoy pineapple or bananas, or mangoes or citrus fruits, or let’s face it – many other things. All I’m saying is – be reasonable about your nutritional expectations. Don’t expect a mango we buy at the grocery store to be everything it was in the hour it is harvested.
Myth 3: Storing food will make it last indefinitely. Truth: Nothing STOPS food spoilage, it’s food! It’s not indestructible, but certain methods of preserving slow spoilage down. That is the best we can hope for. No matter what you hear, no stored food lasts indefinitely. Be reasonable. Nutrition is optimum the fresher it is, of course, and it is best used within a certain time frame. All storage methods have limits that are shorter than we might assume.
Generally this is what you can expect with preserving:
Canned food – commercially canned or home-bottled food has a recommended shelf life of 18 months to 2 years. Two years is the time frame I try to work within. Nutritional value is approximately 40% of whatever that food was when it went into the bottle. That nutritional value decreases as it ages, so yes, we may all know someone who has bottled peaches from 2018 on their shelf, but just because it’s there, doesn’t mean it should be eaten. The nutritional value is so poor . . . . Just EAT the doggone thing or give it to the chickens! Get it over with! What are you waiting for?
Frozen fruits and vegetables if prepared properly have a recommended shelf life of 4 months to a year. For me, I use a year as my benchmark. Nutritional value is approximately 60% of whatever the food was the hour it went into the freezer. The key is to have it in the freezer as close to harvest time as possible. Don’t forget about it in there.
Dehydrated foods have a Potential Shelf Life of – 1 year for fruits, 6 months for vegetables, 1-2 months for meat (6 months if vacuum sealed. I say potential because there are so many factors to consider when dehydrating at home. How long between picking time and the dehydrator? Did you remove all the moisture? Are you certain? How are you storing it? Best practise is to store in coolish room temperatures (no less than 40 F / 5 C and no higher than 70 F / 20 C), out of direct light. Nutritional value is approximately 80%; again the key is prompt processing.
Freeze dried foods has the potential for a 25 year shelf life IF done properly, IF packaged properly, and IF stored properly. Freeze drying is a gentler process preserving and protecting food value. Nutritional value could be over 90%, with a lotta variables in the shelf life. How you package your freeze dried food will influence its long term stability. A sealed oxygen-free can or jar has the longest storage potential. A high quality mylar bag – provides a top 5-8 year shelf life.
It is impossible to achieve the coveted 25 year shelf life in a typical home kitchen – no matter how expensive your freeze-drier is. So stop having unreasonable expectations, and agree to live with the way things are. Freeze drying is a good way to preserve, but if you have to buy the food you’re going to freeze-dry, you’re already behind the 8 ball. And if you don’t store it properly , it will not last as long as you think it will.
The key to success for all preserved food – is ROTATION. Rotation means you USE it! 1st in – 1st out. Commit to using the food you preserve.
Community
One of your greatest resources when learning how to preserve the food you grow (or acquire) is other people. Everyone has an idea you’ve never tried (or even heard about) before. Don’t be stuck in the way you’ve always done things, just because that’s how you always have. But just because your girlfriend’s mom did things a certain way, doesn’t mean that’s best either. Be open-minded and willing to LEARN, willing to try new things. Be wise and pay attention to details. And then share your successes and failures with others so everyone can get better.
get a good book you can trust
I am not saying this is the book you must have (in fact, it’s out of print), but there are other excellent resources available with important details that will be invaluable to you in your food-preserving journey. Look around, do some research and FIND a GOOD BOOK that will not only give you great suggestions and recipes, but more importantly – tell you how to can, and the times to boil your jars, what times and pressure to use when you’re pressure canning, suggested steaming or blanching times when you’re canning etc. These are very important details.
These things have been (and continue to be) studied in test kitchens for decades. What temperatures and times are needed to safely preserve food? What temperatures kill the toxins that cause botulism? Don’t depend on your memory, don’t depend on what Aunt Martha has always done, and if you use google, be very cautious about where you take your information.
before we go on, we must take an important cautionary side trip . . . . . don’t skip this part below, it could save your life
Botulism! is nothing to trifle with.
What is it? Botulism is a rare but serious condition caused by a toxin that attacks the body’s nervous system. It can cause life-threatening symptoms. All forms of botulism can be fatal and are considered medical emergencies, but for our purposes here, we’re only talking about Foodborne Botulism.
Harmful bacteria can thrive and produce toxins in low-oxygen, and low-acid environments. The bacterium responsible for botulism grows best in these conditions which is why improperly processed home-canned or bottled foods pose a higher risk. Freezing does not destroy the bacteria or it’s spores. While boiling can destroy the toxin itself, it does not kill the spores, which can survive and later produce more toxin under the right conditions.
Strict adherence to cleanliness, and ensuring that proper canning methods are used when home preserving is more important than we might suspect. Fruits and vegetables should be washed thoroughly before using. Glass jars should be cleaned with hot soapy water, rinsed with hot water and kept clean till used. It is not necessary to sterilize jars if they will be processed in a hot water bath for at least 10 minutes.
Only high acid foods like some fruits and in some cases pickled vegetables, should be canned in a hot water bath canner. Why? A boiling water bath (212°F) is only safe for high-acid foods (fruits, pickles, jams) because the acid prevents the botulism spores from germinating, even though the heat does not kill them.
Low acid foods: vegetables, legumes, soups, sauces, meat and fish should be processed in a pressure canner under recommended pressure. Don’t guess about the what pressure to use, or the timing, always use a reputable guide. Why pressure? Because botulism spores are highly resistant to heat and can survive boiling water, but they are destroyed at temperatures of 240°F and above.1 which are only achievable in a pressure canner.
Key Facts About Pressure Canning and Botulism Safety:
Temperature Requirement: To destroy botulism spores, food must be processed at 240°F (116°C) or higher, using 10-15 pounds per square inch (PSI) of pressure.
EATING “IN THE SEASON”
Years ago (for nutritional reasons), I decided to focus our eating IN THE SEASON, preserving the EXCESS of what we could use immediately. Consequently, we eat primarily out of our garden from the beginning of May through the end of September. Other than the watermelon we buy constantly throughout the summer, 90% of our fresh produce comes from the garden. Like everyone else, I still like summer fruits we cannot grow in our climate: peaches, nectarines, citrus, and blackberries – when all those fruits are at their best. Lucky for me, I live in a place where I have the best of both worlds.
Every growing season will be different; not every vegetable will do great every year. Some years are going to be great tomato years, some will be better green crop years. It is important to diversify what we grow to give us the best variety and chances for success. For instance, our growing season – summer of 2024 – was the perfect lesson for why diversification is a good idea.
It threw some unexpected curve balls at us: April was cold, May was cold and excessively windy, even June was cold and very windy. 2 I was still planting my garden in the middle of June – a full month later than than I ever have before. But then the weather was perfect for weeks at a time. By mid July most things had caught up. Who knew? April, May and June of 2024 was perfect spinach weather, but unfortunately for me, and uncharacteristically, I hadn’t planted any spinach. Booooo me.
MAY
What is typically ready in my yard (and probably your yard too) in May? * Early greens like spinach if you got it planted early enough (April, or even the previous August is a good time). * Volunteer Greens: Lambs Quarters – a common garden edible weed that is very much like spinach in many ways. Dandelion leaves – open your mind – when they’re very young, (young dandelion greens are nice added to a salad). Giant hyssop is an edible native plant that comes up early. Chickweed (yes, another common garden edible weed) that springs to life as soon as the ground warms up. * Sorrel, one of the earliest garden greens. * Rhubarb is at its best at the beginning of the season. * Chives, Garlic Chives and Welsh Onions are up and big enough to start picking for meals.
JUNE
What is ready in my yard (and probably your yard too) in June? * All your herbs. * More early greens, including lettuces. * Early strawberries. * Haskaps are the first fruits of the season – usually ready before the middle of the month. * Rhubarb is full on and at its best in June.
JULY
By the first of July, you should be eating something from your garden every day. Peas, beans, more greens including Asian greens, kale, the first cucumbers, every kind of herb, and the first tomatoes, zucchini and onions, black currants and more strawberries.
AUGUST
Very soon the excitement of first ripening turns into mass ripeness – all ready to harvest at the same time. Zucchini that gets so big you can use it for a piece of furniture, or it sits on the counter for several days before you use it; kale that grows bigger by the hour; more salad than anyone can enjoy, and more basil-wrapped-tomatoes than you can put on any table. Who has time to do take-out in the summer? And why would you? There is so much to eat every day right in your garden.
Part of the beauty of summer is the healthful benefits of eating in-the-season. Shop for dinner every day from your garden. There’s nothing like fresh sour cherries or plums from the tree, or those first crisp apples! But don’t miss the more subtle offerings: parsley that is ready fresh all summer long – with plenty to be dehydrated for use all winter, kale that we can literally pick every day and it never stops producing, with lots left to freeze or dehydrate. Gardeners, we have carefully tended our food plants since the weather warmed up, so be open to all the ways they want to give back to us. In some cases, the more we pick, the more will keep coming. When we let vegetables like peas, beans, cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes stay on the plant longer than needful, they start to over-ripen in an effort to produce viable seed, signalling the plant that producing time is over. They’ll stop producing more fruit, and focus on going to seed.
We sabotage our garden’s quality and quantity by not constantly harvesting throughout the entire growing season.
Picking cucumbers every few days as they ripen will keep the plant producing. You’ll have some to enjoy today, some to give away, and some to put up for winter for several weeks. Same with tomatoes: freshly sliced on toasted sourdough bread, in your garden salad of course, fresh bruschetta on fresh sourdough, fresh salsa, roasted pasta sauce, – enough to eat fresh, enough to share and enough to put up for winter.
STORE WHAT YOU EAT AND EAT WHAT YOU STORE
Preserving means NO WASTE, and extending the season – but never at the expense of eating IN the season. We really can have plenty of both, ironically by picking more. And there are several different ways to preserve, some more suitable than others, each with it’s own advantages, disadvantages and optimum shelf life. Not all methods are suitable for all produce. Be open-minded and employ a variety of methods to take advantage of the best options. When you eat what you store, you will have greater success in keeping your food properly rotated. This is what is meant by Food ROTATION.
front and centre you can see two tomatoes that suffered from irregular watering
When harvesting, be GENTLE. All fruits and vegetables are easily bruised and damaged; that damage will affect how long they’ll last. Use injured produce immediately, and the less severely injured ones as soon as possible. Go through your stored vegetables frequently, discarding all that are showing signs of spoilage.
COLD STORAGE Choose the coolest area in your house or garage that is clean with no risk of freezing. Do everything you can to keep it cool: lowest level if you’ve got a basement, no windows, outside walls if possible, no carpet, no heating vents, and dark. Vegetables like potatoes and onions will last for months, beets for a couple weeks at best. If you have a very cold room, you may even be able to keep carrots packed in CLEAN sand for an additional month or two, and possibly even cabbage short-term if it’s cool enough. COLD STORAGE is a temporary short-term storage method, extending the season another month or two or three – the key being to EAT it, don’t leave it there for months. Rotation is important. Most modern homes are not built for cold storage.
2. REFRIGERATION Room is always an issue in any fridge and over packing your fridge reduces its effectiveness to keep everything at a consistently cold enough but not too cold temperature. Additional fridges have additional costs involved in running them. It is an excellent, though temporary, short term storage method. Count your time in weeks at best. Eat your food storage to keep it rotated.
Refrigeration and Freezing are 100% dependent on electricity. For this reason, I don’t consider anything in either one part of my food storage. They are for convenience only, and let’s face it – freezers are mighty convenient. But if you lose power, you’ve lost a LOTTA food. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket – in the fridge or freezer basket.
3. FREEZING Again room is an issue, and leaving foods too long in the freezer is a common problem. Rotate your frozen food, 1st-in 1st-out. Short to medium short-term storage when properly prepared, packed and labelled. Freezing retains approximately 60% nutrition IF prepared properly and frozen quickly after harvesting. Recommended shelf life of frozen food is 4 months to 1 year, depending on what it is. And yes, I know your mom has food in her freezer from 3 years ago. Again, the recommended shelf life is 4 months to 1 year.
4. CANNING Two methods of canning: using a hot water bath with boiling water reaching 212 degrees F, and a pressure canner, which uses steam and pressure to reach up to 250 degrees F. Hot Water Bath canning is for high acid fruits. I always add lemon juice or vinegar – depending on the flavour it’s going to give the fruit. For instance, to a quart jar its recommended to add 2 Tablespoons lemon juice or double that for vinegar.
5. JAMS, JELLIES AND SYRUPS I always process these lovelies in a hot water canner. It is possible to freeze jams but I choose not to. Freezing always seems to require more sugar, and freezer space is a premium in my house. 3 for directions on how to make your own jam click HERE
5. DEHYDRATING is one of the oldest ways to preserve foods, keeping them safe to eat and maintaining reasonable nutrition. Estimates are that up to 80% of original food value is preserved. Times to dehydrate range from 1-2 hours to 24+ hours, depending on what you’re drying. Pay particular attention to ensure there is no remaining moisture in individual pieces.
Do NOT dehydrate high fat foods such as avocados, olives or nut butters, or dairy as the risk of food poisoning is too high. I personally do not dehydrate any kind of protein either.
For optimum storage keep in a cool, dry, dark place at temperatures below 60 degrees F or 15 degrees C. Dried foods should be good for up to 12 months depending on storage conditions. Vacuum sealing dehydrated fruits, vegetables and herbs will extend the shelf life for up to 10 years. The vacuum seal prevents oxygen from entering.
6. PICKLING OR FERMENTING While I have pickled various vegetables over the year: cucumbers, beets and carrots, it seems our family are not big pickle fans so I haven’t kept it up.
We are however, big SAUERKRAUT fans. I like to make a batch of sauerkraut in the late fall – November for the winter.
7. FREEZE DRYING Freeze drying is a relatively new option in home preserving. Commercially, its been on the market for 40+ years, but quality was a little hard to find. Since the year 2000 it became increasingly more available for purchase, but as with most things, the quality varied greatly.
The process is two step: Step 1 is to FREEZE, and step 2 is to remove all remaining moisture WITHOUT thawing. The key to the highest nutritional quality is – how fast can one get it from field to freezer? and how fast can one freeze it? When freeze drying at home, you must have sufficient freezer space to freeze your food in a flat surface layer so that once frozen, the food can be transferred to the freeze dryer. Everything will take different times, but to give you an idea of what to expect, blueberries will take approximately 30-40 hours to completely dry. Because blueberries (and other berries like them) have a protective skin on them, each berry must be punctured. If you don’t do that, the outer skin will dry, sealing in the moisture – exactly what you don’t want! Once they’re completely finished it is imperative that you get them sealed in an oxygen free storage container as soon as possible because they will begin absorbing moisture from the air.
Commercially, the process is the same: Freeze, and remove all remaining moisture without thawing, through a vacuum like process called sublimation. There are many companies that freeze dry, and I have noticed that not all are the same in their commitment to quality. Again, like for home freeze drying, the key to quality is – how fast can one get it from field to freezer? Over the years, I have tried many different brands of commercially freeze dried food, and finally settled on THRIVE LIFE as my brand of choice. There were several reasons for this – all of them relating to their unwavering commitment to quality. Sadly, in 2025 Thrive Life ceased selling to individual households. So the search for quality began again.
Last fall, I found WISE HARVEST Freeze dried food. Based in Utah, they process their own food, so they’re in charge of their own selection, quality and process. They are currently packaging in high quality mylar bags which allow for a shelf life of 5-8 years, and have about 20 items in their inventory. I have tried everything they sell and I am impressed with the quality. It is definitely a company I will be keeping track of as they grow and develop. Incidentally, they ship everything FREE once the order tops $100 – even into Canada. And their prices are both in American or Canadian dollars.
Do I freeze dry my own produce? Not at this time, but I am always considering it.
Why not? I have reflected on doing so many times over the years, and have several friends who have taken the step into freeze-drying their own food. I’d be lying if I said I haven’t been tempted to buy a freeze dryer, and looked a few times very seriously. After all, it is completely cohesive with the way I do things. But the thing that holds me back from this very expensive system, is the fact that I do not believe I can DO better or provide a better end product than what I can buy already freeze dried. In all other methods of preserving, I believe I provide a cleaner and more nutritious end product: canning, freezing and dehydrating. But not when it comes to freeze drying? Not yet. Not as long as there is a good, affordable source providing the quality and variety I cannot match.
Some hard facts to consider: * Living in central Alberta, most produce available for purchase has travelled long distances and is several days from harvest by the time it reaches our grocery store shelves. This means tremendous loss of nutrition. * Living in urban central Alberta, the variety and quantity of food I grow is restricted by my weather. Some of the food my family would like to eat freeze dried are things I cannot grow: bananas, mangoes, pineapple, etc. I feel that if I must buy the food I am going to freeze dry, I might as well buy it already freeze dried – in the end, I am looking for the highest quality.
Currently, of the variety and quantity of food I grow in central Alberta, that are suitable to be freeze-dried, I just don’t think I can justify the cost. One also needs to consider the additional cost of dedicated freezer space (the 1st step of the process). It’s a personal choice, and I totally understand those who go that route. It’s just not my route quite yet.
– Preserving your ABC’s –
Apples
A late summer favourite in our house, we look forward to the apples. Usually coinciding with the beginning of back-to-school time, our apples are ready, and we begin juicing. September smells like apple juice in our house. If the apples are nice then we make a few apple pies to eat and freeze, apple muffins, apple cookies, apples in our salads, apple sauce, apple fruit leather . . . there is no end to the versatility of apples. If your apples are more tart, its not necessary to add lemon juice, but if they’re more sweet, you might want to add 1 T to a pint (500 ml), 2 T to a quart (1 L).
Cold Storage: YES! the colder the better. Refrigeration: YES. can be stored in the fridge for a month or two Freezing: Yes! Also cut up as if for pie filling, apple sauce and juice Canning: Yes! As apple wedges as if for pie filling, apple sauce and apple juice. Dehydrating: Yes! Sliced reasonably thinly in wedges or rings. Pickling or Fermenting: no Juicing: Yes! Freeze Drying: Yes
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: short term Freezing: Yes. Canning: not really suitable Pickling: yes Dehydrating: No. Texture is not good. Freeze Drying: yes
Beans – green or yellow or purple
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: yes, short term Freezing: Yes. Freeze in whatever meal amount suits your family best. I blanch for two or three minutes then seal into small freezer bags, label and freeze. I find this better suited for our family so that those few of us who like them can enjoy without cooking up to much at a time. Canning: Yes – under pressure. This is my sister’s family’s favourite winter vegetable; consequently she cans dozens of jars every summer. Cooked beans are not a favourite in our house, so I have never canned them. Pickling: Yes. Several different types of pickled beans – open your mind and seek out recipes that appeal to you. Dehydrating: No, not the best. Takes a while to rehydrate and the texture is not very nice.
Beets can be picked pretty much all July and August as you thin out your rows.
Thinning will allow more room for the beets to grow bigger, and they can be left in the garden till cold weather forces your hand.
Beets are best stored unwashed but with excess soil brushed away, in a ‘cold’ dark place – a cold room or the fridge. Unlike onions and potatoes they can be stored in large food grade plastic bags, but are not suitable to long term shelf life in a cold room. Best place is the fridge. For longer storage, either can, freeze or pickle.
Every year, I look forward to BORSCH, the traditional Eastern European later summer soup, and a national dish in Ukraine.5 click HERE to read my post on Borsch including recipe
Cold Storage: short term Refrigeration: yes, in fact they should be stored in the fridge (short term again) Freezing: yes Beets can be frozen with good results. Cook them first. I prefer roasting covered in a hot oven (400 degrees). Keep 1/2 inch or more of their bottom stem to minimize colour bleed, ensuring they stay to their beautiful deep colour. I use a roasting pan, or a casserole dish or even just tin foil – depending on how many you’re doing. Keep them covered. They’ll cook in their own moisture. Or you can boil: cover with water allowing plenty of room in your pot so it doesn’t boil over (big mess). Roasting or boiling, when tender to the fork remove from heat, cool and remove the peel – it will slip off easily in your hands. Slice, cube or grate and package them into freezer bags or containers. Label and freeze. Plan to use before next season for best results. Canning: Can in pint or quart jars – because they are a low acid food they must be processed in a pressure canner. Don’t have a pressure canner? Consider pickling them. This you can process with a hot water bath canner. For maximum nutrition, plan to use within 18 months – 2 years. Dehydrating: Don’t. You won’t like them. Not a good texture. Pickling: yes Freeze Drying: yes
Berries
Cold Storage: NO Refrigeration: Yes Freezing: Yes Canning: No. The texture of berries is too delicate to withstand the heat and time of canning. Dehydrating: No – with reservations. Depends on the berries. It’s helpful to puncture berries with a skin like blueberries, saskatoons, currants, haskaps. Personally, I don’t like any of these delicate berries dried. Strawberries are good dehydrated if they’re not sliced too thin. I don’t like raspberries dried. Too sour, and I don’t like the texture. Jams: Yes Vinegars: Yes
Cabbage
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: yes short term Freezing: We often freeze cabbage in the original head, to break down the texture so as to be better/more pliable to make cabbage rolls. Canning: I never have and have no comment Dehydrating: doesn’t sound good to me Fermenting Cabbage : Sauerkraut. A definite YES! 6 Once your sauerkraut is sufficiently fermented, store in the fridge. Freeze Drying: ? maybe?
to read more about sauerkraut, including how to make it, click HERE
Carrots can be stored in a high humidity COLD storage room.
Gently wash and trim the tops to within a 1/2 inch, and thoroughly dry before storing. Store only whole, unblemished carrots; refrigeration is highly recommended. Place in large plastic, food grade bags with several breathing holes punched through. Line the bag with a layer of paper towel to absorb excess moisture. Check carrots every few weeks to ensure they’re not drying out, but are also not too wet (I know – sigh). If the paper towels get very wet, replace them. Cold Storage: yes, packed in clean sand. Use withing a few months. Refrigeration: yes, you can store them in the fridge for a few months Freezing: no, don’t. Very rubbery. That’s all I have to say about that. Canning: Carrots can be bottles and processed in a pressure canner. As with beets, if you don’t have one, consider pickling. Dehydrating: Yes. Chop small. Best to use in a nice brothy soup to refresh. Don’t use too many, they’re pretty strong and will overpower a dish. Don’t do too many the first year – a little goes a long way. After the first year, you can judge for yourself. Pickling : Yes Freeze Drying: no
Cherries or Sour Cherries
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: yes for the short term Freezing: yes. Pit first or you’ll wish you did. Canning: Yes. I suggest adding 1 T lemon juice to a pint (500 ml) or 2 T to a quart (1 L). Dehydrating: Yes. Pit and cut in half. Freeze Dried: Yes. pit and cut in half, or pit and puncture with pin. Jams: Yes Juicing: Yes, and can combined with apple juice or on its own. Vinegars: Yes
Corn
Corn is best eaten the day it is picked. If needed to pick in advantage, keep as cool as possible and make every effort to use as soon as possible. Suggestion: submerge cobs in ice water right after harvesting, drain and refrigerate with husks on. If the husks have been removed, store in plastic bags, for a few days in the fridge.
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: short-term Freezing: My preferred way to store corn. Once the corn is cooked, (we prefer to grill it on the BBQ), we cut the kernels off with a sharp knife. I gather the kernels in a plastic tub. and gently tossed the corn with me hands. Then I pack in serving sized freezer bags. . Canning: I have canned excess corn before, under pressure in the Pressure Canner. Dehydrating: no, I don’t recommend it Pickling: I’ve seen corn used in salsas which are canned, as well as relishes. Personally, I would pressure can these.
Cucumbers
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: short-term Freezing: nope Canning: nope, not unless you’re canning your pickles Dehydrating: doesn’t sound good Freeze Drying: in small pieces the results are excellent. When home freeze drying I find they don’t stay crisp. It’s tempting to freeze dry in slices, but it seems to work a lot better in dices.
Pickling or Fermenting: A definite YES for pickling.
Garlic – as with onions, you can use garlic immediately from the garden,
but for long term storing, as with onions again, it should be cured. Remove all excess dirt and tie in bundles of about 10-12 heads, hang upside down out of the way and out of the sun. Must be cured – as with onions – it is ready to prep and store when it is dry, brown and crispy. Any remaining moisture will promote spoilage down the road.
With scissors cut off the stock, leaving about a 1 inch piece and also remove the root close to the surface. Small paper bags left open at top are perfectly suited for storing garlic in dry dark cold room. Dehydrating: I have never done it myself but I have several friends who do. Slice and dehydrate in a dehydrator. If you don’t have a dehydrator you can dry on a cookie sheet in your oven at the lowest temperature. If you cannot get your oven below 150 degrees, use a wooden spoon to prop your oven oven slightly. Check often to prevent scorching. Once it is thoroughly dry / crispy, powder in a food processer or coffee grinder. A blender will work but you’ll get a lot of powder. Let it settle before opening the lid.
Garlic Salt: My cousin brought me some garlic salt she made herself and now I am a total convert. So doing this myself when I run out. It’s a super simple process. You control the texture of your garlic salt, leave it chunky, coarse or fine – depends on your desired end use.
1 cup coarse kosher salt (non iodized – don’t use regular table salt) 12-15 cloves fresh garlic peeled. Process in food processer until garlic is finely chopped. Spread over parchment line baking sheet and bake 200 degrees till mixture completely dries out. Expect it to take 45-60 minutes.
Baking it makes it a little clumpy, so after its cooled, either crush it in a mortar and pestle or run through your food processer again, or throw it in your high powered blender if you want a finer texture.
Valiant grapes ready to harvest. End of September.
We’ve grown Valiant Grapes in our backyard for almost 20 years. They look and taste very similar to Concord Grapes that are grown in the Niagara region. They are delicious, nutritious, super easy to grow, and winter hardy – everything that is important to me. They have seeds in them and for that reason, some in my family prefer not to eat them ‘fresh’. That doesn’t bother me one little tiny bit. Grape seeds are so rich in nutrition, that I am highly motivated to ‘like’ them.
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: yes, short-term. Freezing: Yes. We freeze them for smoothies all winter long. Canning: no Dehydrating: no because they contain pits that are too hard to remove. You won’t like them. Juicing: yes, and then can the juice Jamming: YES!!!
We make GRAPE PIE – as a traditional favourite dessert for Thanksgiving and Christmas.
They make a wonderful sauce to add to yogurt, serve over top ice cream or angel food cake, and they make the best jam in the history of the world!
Herbs
Most of the herbs I grow get dehydrated for winter use. The exceptions are dill weed and chives. Dill weed is too delicate to dry – it loses all that makes it wonderful. So I chop it and freeze it, scraping out of its container with a fork while it’s still frozen to use, then returning to the freezer immediately. Chives are also too delicate to dry – becoming ‘woody’ in my opinion, so I chop and freeze them too.
Small amounts of thin leafed herbs (basil, mint, oregano, parsley, tarragon, thyme) – dry on a clean towel on the table or counter. Larger amounts or thick leaves I put in the dehydrator.
Basil – Pesto Pesto is one of my favourite summer traditions. I used to think it was synonymous with basil and at one time it was, but this is a brave new world we’re living in, and pesto can also come from parsley, radish greens, carrot greens, nasturtiums or any combination thereof, or any other flavour you want to preserve. 7
to learn more about pesto, including recipes click HERE. In the link are several different posts about different ways to make pesto using a variety of herbs. Be creative and have fun experimenting.
Dandelion roots – I wash, chop and dry roast them in the oven at 400F. Store in glass jar away from direct light. 8
Dill– I am generally interested in the green weed. I pick when they’re green and lush throughout mid summer, swish in cool water then put in a salad spinner to take excess water off. Chop with a sharp knife on board and scrape into a freezer container. Label and seal. Freeze. To use, I simple scrape the chopped weed out of its container with a fork while its still frozen and return to the freezer immediately. 9
Horseradish – you can make horseradish sauce or freeze it in clumps. It will lose some of its pungency, so plan to use in 6 months. to read more about horse radish including recipes click HERE
Mint – for tea is foundational, probably the first herb most people dry and then use all winter long. Easy to dry. Easy to use.
Kale
Cold Storage – nope Refrigeration – short term Freezing – Yes. Wash and remove stems. Chop coarsely and blanch in boiling water for 1 minute. Immediately plunge into ice water to stop the cooking and to lock in colour. Once the mass is cooled, strain and let the leaves drain for a few minutes. Pat dry with a cloth, and put them in labelled clean freezer bags, removing as much air as possible. Blanching kale increases the shelf life to 6-9 monts, while raw kale frozen is best eaten within 1–2 months. Canning: nope Dehydrating: This is my personal preference. Easy to do and easy to use later. Two to three hours in the dehydrator depending on how full your racks are, and then pack away in a glass jar. Label, and keep out of direct sunlight.
These jars pictured are 2 quart size. You’d be amazed by how much dehydrated kale is in each of these jars. I use it throughout the winter in many dishes, just scooping out of the jar and adding it to soups, stews, chillies, and sauces of all kinds. Pickling or Fermenting: nope Freeze drying: One of my favourite freeze-dried vegetables.
Onions can be used from the garden as needed all summer long
especially when the bulb starts to round out, but by late summer you’ll notice the tops begin to flop over, giving the signal that the plant has stopped growing. They’re ready to harvest.
Cold Storage: Yes. They need a cool, dry, dark, and well-ventilated spot (a pantry will do) to stay firm for months.
To dig, carefully loosen the soil around your onions with a garden fork, then gently pull them up by their tops. Best to keep the full stem intact until fully dry. If the weather is dry with no danger of frost overnight, lay the plants out in the garden for a day or two to dry out. If the weather is not in your favour, move them to a protected area – perhaps the floor of the garage or a covered porch.
Curing onions is the term used to prepare them for long term storage, and is absolutely necessary. The outer layers dry out, tightening around the bulbs to effectively protect them, keeping the onion firm longer. Its a simple process: make sure they have plenty of air space for circulation – ideally outside but protected from the sun. Either hang or lay out. That’s it. You do you, but take care not to bump or bruise them. And don’t rush this process, drying takes TIME, and properly curing onions means you can enjoy the harvest all winter long. Taking shortcuts will prevent proper curing, and the onion bulbs will turn soft and mushy. Curing onions allows them to be stored at room temperature, so even a kitchen pantry would be sufficient if it was nice and dark.
Onions are sufficiently cured when the necks are completely tight and dry, and the stems contain no moisture. Use scissors to trim the roots to about 1/2 inch, and the leaves to about 1 inch. Like potatoes, onions should be kept cool and dark – with good air circulation. The same kind of containers are suitable. If the onions are exposed to light for any long stretches, they may sprout new green leaves. Use any onions that have been bruised or damaged first, as they will not last as long.
It’s tempting to store onions with potatoes because their needs are similar, but potatoes release moisture as they age, which can encourage onions to develop soft spots, so keep a reasonable distance between them.
Either hang or lay out, you do you, but don’t rush the process. Drying takes TIME
Refrigeration: No. The fridge is too damp, causing them to turn soft and moldy. *note: if you only have a few onions and you think you’ll use them up in a few weeks, don’t worry about curing. Go ahead and put them in your fridge.
Not all onions are intended for long storage. Generally, the milder or (or sweeter) onions are intended for short term use. Stronger (or more pungent) flavoured onions may retain quality for up to a year if cured properly. These are things to consider when selecting the type of onion you want to grow in the spring.
Freezing: Yes, though they will lose their crunch. They are best suited for cooked dishes like soups, stews, sauces, and casseroles. Properly stored, frozen onions last about 3-6 months.
Peel and chop, dice, or slice onions to the desired size. Spread out on a baking sheet and place flat in the freezer for about 2 hours. This prevents them from freezing into a solid clump. Pack into airtight bags or containers, removing as much air as possible to prevent freezer burn. Use directly from frozen in recipes; no need to thaw.
I’ve seen my dad put on goggles and chop tons of onions by hand for hours so that he could freeze them for ready use. That was enough for me to never want to do the same thing. Generally, I choose not to freeze.
You can also freeze onions precooked to save cooking time later.
Canning: No Dehydrating: Yes, but you might want to take the dehydrator outside to do it. The smell lingering in the house for days is not appealing. Pickling: Yes Freeze drying: Yes! I don’t freeze-dry onions myself – I prefer the quality of what I have purchased. They are super easy to use, and do not need to be refreshed. One can use them in fresh salsas, chicken or egg salads, or in any other way.
Parsnips – same as carrots.
Peas
Cold Storage: nope Refrigeration: short-term Freezing: Yes. To freeze fresh peas, shell and wash them, then blanch in boiling water for 1.5 to 2 minutes. Immediately plunge into ice water for 2 minutes to stop cooking, drain well, and dry completely. Freeze in a single layer on a tray (flash freeze) before storing in airtight freezer bags for up to 6–12 months Canning: Yes, under pressure Dehydrating: Yes, but . . . . I don’t like them. Pickling: no Freeze Drying: YES! They’re great to snack on, and when they’re refreshed, they taste just like fresh from the garden.
Peppers
Cold Storage: nope Refrigeration: Yes short term. Freezing: Yes. They can be frozen raw and chopped (sliced or diced, seeds removed), no blanching necessary. Freeze on a cookie shett to prevent clumping, then transfer to a labelled freezer bag. Will keep a good 9 -12 months. Canning: Yes, under pressure Freezing: Yes.
Dehydrating: Yes Freeze Drying: Yes
Potatoes
Cold Storage or Refrigeration: Potatoes should never be stored in the fridge, as it converts starch into sugars, changing the texture to a sweet, gritty, unpleasant texture. Cool is good, COLD is not. A nice dark area is necessary as light turns potatoes green. Keep them in a breathable storage container like a cotton or burlap bag, paper bag, basket, or a cardboard or wooden box. Use injured potatoes first – those that may have been damaged with a shovel when harvesting, those with blemishes, those with splits or anything else not perfect. Those injury spots will begin to spoil, so use them first. Continue to go through them from time to time, removing any that look like they are starting to rot. Canning: Yes, under pressure Dehydrating: Yes with reservations. I personally don’t dry them. Freeze Drying: Yes . . . .though I’ve never done so myself. I do however, use commercially freeze-dried potatoes.
Potatoes are easy to store: choose the coolest area you have (NOT the fridge) and keep them in the dark with as much air circulation as possible. No plastic bags or tubs.
Pumpkins and other winter squash
Cold Storage or Refrigeration: Cool, NOT cold. Handle gently, as dents and scrapes will introduce decay. Clean the surface by wiping with cool water in which a capful of bleach has been added. This kills bacteria that will quickly gain a foothold in any injury spots, including cuts when you carve a jack-o-lantern. After it’s been disinfected, dry it thoroughly with a soft cloth before storing it. Keep your pumpkins cool, dry and dark and they’ll reward you by lasting several months. Slight freezing or even too cold will break down the tissue and make the pumpkin soft, but too warm is a problem too. Keep them out of direct sunlight. Best place is in your cold room or garage, as long as it doesn’t freeze. Keep them OFF the cement floor with cardboard, a blanket, wood slats or on a shelf. And try to keep them from touching each other to allow them to breathe.
Freezing: Yes, but the texture gets watery. I don’t care for the final result Canning: Yes, in chunks not puree – and always under pressure Dehydrating: No. Freeze Drying: Yes
Rhubarb – the best friend you never gave the time of day to
Cold Storage: No. Refrigeration: Yes, short-term. Freezing: Yes! Wash, chop, bag and freeze. I use the frozen rhubarb in smoothies for an especially refreshing drink. Canning: Yes! I cold pack macerated rhubarb into pints, using the juice of the rhubarb and sugar as liquid. 10 minutes in a hot water bath. I don’t feel the need to add any lemon juice or vinegar, as it is acidic enough already. We use this to flavour yogurt or to top oatmeal on winter mornings, or for baking.
Jam: Rhubarb is foundational in most of my red summer jams. Dehydrating: Yes, but only as fruit leather. By itself or as a base with strawberries, raspberries, plums, and many other flavour companions. Be creative. Yes you can dry rhubarb in small pieces, but it is not a nice texture or flavour and is hard to find uses for. Freeze Drying: Yessss, although I don’t care for the texture. I guess it depends on what your goals are to use it.
To read more about Rhubarb including recipes, click HERE10
Sorrel and other Greens such as Spinach, Swiss Chard and Amaranth
Cold Storage: No. Refrigeration: Yes, short-term. Freezing: Yes. Lightly blanch and pack into small freezer bags, label and freeze. Canning; nope Dehydrating: nope Freeze Drying: YES
Tomatoes are why I garden
Cold Storage: No. I leave whole tomatoes in my kitchen at room temperature while they’re ripening. I want them close at hand so I can keep an eye on them. We use them daily fresh, but sometimes they ripen a lot at once, so I need to be watching. Refrigeration: No. Cold temperatures stop the ripening process, breaking down cell structure and creating a mealy texture, as well as reducing flavour. But sometimes, if your tomatoes are over ripe, you can refrigerate to buy your some extra time. Best to only use in cooking after they’ve been refrigerated. Freezing: YES! Sometimes if I have too many ripening all at once, I’ll wash and dry them, then place in the freezer to buy me some time. I freeze loose, them pack them frozen in a freezer bag. This is a short term gig, and we’ll use the tomatoes as quickly as we can afterward. Only good for cooking. Canning; YES! I always 2 T vinegar to a pint (500 ml) or up to 4 T to a quart (1 L). Whole, ripe tomatoes are best stored on the counter, but can be refrigerated for 1-2 weeks to prevent spoiling. Cold temperatures (under 55°F/13°C) stop the ripening process, breaking down cell structure to create a mealy texture and reducing flavor compounds. Always bring refrigerated tomatoes to room temperature before eating. Dehydrating: YES! Freeze Drying: YES! but I find the texture very delicate, and that it absorbs moisture from the air very quickly. Not ideal.
to learn more about tomatoes including recipes click HERE
Zucchini is the master of disguise
Cold Storage: Yes, short-term for big ripe zucchini, but not too cold. Refrigeration: Yes, short term for smaller, less mature ones. Canning: Yes, under pressure. Personally, I don’t like the texture. Freezing: Yes, . . . but texture will be watery. For me its a no, unless I shred the zucchini and package in the right amount for zucchini cake. Dehydrating: Yes – my preferred method for long term storage Freeze Drying: YES! but I find the texture gets a little spongy after a while Pickling: No.
Fruit Leather
Fruit leather! Apple leather – rhubarb leather – any kind of fruit leather. Mix it up. Apple Pear. Rhubarb Raspberry. Plum Cherry. Plum Apple, Plum Grape Apple. . . . . Whatever you’ve got on hand that needs to be used up, turn it into a delicious, nutritious snack to grab all winter long.11
to read more about fruit leather including recipes click HERE
Vinegars
Take your favourite flavours from the growing season and use them to flavour vinegars.12
to read more about vinegars including recipes, click HERE
Tips for storing your preserved foods
Don’t just stash your food and forget about it. You’ve done all the work up till now: you’ve grown it, nurtured it, harvested it, preserved it, – now you need to finish the job by keeping it safe, making it accessible and incorporating it into your daily life. EAT IT!
I cannot overstate the importance of STORING WHAT YOU EAT and EATING WHAT YOUR STORE.
In many cases the shelf life of your food will depend on where and how its stored.
Pay attention to the risks : Humidity – Light – Oxygen – Temperature Variations – Pests (insects and mice)
Moisture/Humidity: If dried food picks up moisture molds and bacteria will grow. Moisture can also damage packaging material, and rust jar rings. In areas of high humidity, using moisture absorbers and investing in a dehumidifier is a good idea. Keep everything OFF the floor, especially if the floor is cement.
Light: Direct light, especially sunlight can speed deterioration
Temperature: Optimal temperatures are cool, ranging from a low of 40F (above freezing risk) to maximum of 70F. All food will react badly to heat. Canned food should not be allowed to freeze for the food’s sake but also, freezing will compromise seals. Dehydrated foods can freeze but continual freeze-thaw is detrimental. Even freeze dried food will have its exceptionally long shelf life significantly reduced by heat, and in continuous freeze-thaw conditions.
Pests: Protect your food storage from pests. Moths, ants and mice belong outside but they don’t always stay there, and once they’ve found their way into your food storage – it will be unsafe for you. Glass, food grade plastics and metal are excellent protection but not always practical in every situation. Do the best you can with what you’ve got. Keep food off the ground and off the floor! Aside from being more susceptible to insects, it is also more vulnerable to water damage should that sad event occur.
Preserve Responsibly
KEEP IT CLEAN Pay attention to cleanliness and details like full boiling and timing when canning, full moisture removal when dehydrating, blanching and packaging when freezing. Cleanliness extends to your storage area.
LABEL You think you’ll remember, but you WON’T, and even if you did – you may not be the one who uses it.
USE IT Shop for Dinner from your Food Storage room. Routinely go through your food storage to ensure that seals are still intact, food is still properly packaged, no signs of pests or mould, and to ROTATE it. USE it!
STORE WHAT YOU EAT and EAT WHAT YOU STORE. I know, I know, you’ve seen it before. It is the single most important rule. If you don’t eat what you store, you’ve wasted your time, energy, food and money! Not using what you “put up” is no better than doing nothing with it, because it ends up being the same.
the final word (words)
Eating a nutritious and balanced diet with variety is the best way to protect our health. It gives our bodies the best chance to take care of themselves. That extends into the non growing seasons, those of us who live in northern climates must think about winter, so we store food.
* Storing food properly is the key to protecting ourselves and our families WITH continued good health and FROM foodborne illnesses.
* You cannot always tell when food is unsafe by its appearance, smell or taste. Botulism for instance cannot be seen, smelled or tasted. When in doubt, throw it out!
* Preserving your garden produce is the next-to-final step in the blessings and benefits of growing a garden. It is soul satisfying. The last step of course is to continue to enjoy the produce throughout the winter.
* Everybody has Failures. Failures are the best teachers. Learn from them.
I’d love to hear your tips and suggestions, as well as some of your success stories as well as things you’ve learned from failures.
Warmly,
Cindy Suelzle
Footnotes:
Botulism spores (Clostridium botulinum) are highly resistant to heat and can survive boiling water (212°F / 100°C), but they are destroyed at temperatures of 240°F to 250°F (116°C to 121°C), which are only achievable in a pressure canner. (USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service) ↩︎
Just for fun, I checked some weather history in Edmonton, and in May 2024 we had 8 sunny days!↩︎
Home Canning (and by that we really mean home ‘bottle-ing‘) is the easiest, most reliable and economical way to preserve food at home. It can be done in your own kitchen, doesn’t require a whole lot of pricey equipment, and has a reasonably long shelf life – up to two years. Yes, I know you know someone who’s had their home canned food for eight years (we all do), and that supposedly “it’s still good”. To that I repeat: “the shelf life is UP to two years“. My suggestion is strongly not to push it too much past then.
Fact: Food is Food. You cannot prevent it from spoiling, you can only slow it down. Canning will preserve it, but not forever.
Don’t expect home canned food to be what it cannot be, and everything will work out fine. It’s reality is that the nutritional value of canned foods (commercially or home canned) is about 40% of what it was when it went into the canner. I admit I was super disappointed when I learned that fact, mostly because I raised my children on home canned food, especially fruit, and I thought I was doing the best thing I could for them. In reality, I really WAS doing the best I could for them, but when one gives it some thought, those peaches were in boiling water for 40+ minutes. What did we expect? Still, I reasoned: having 40% peaches in February is highly preferable to 0% peaches in February.
After the recommended shelf life of two years, we can expect that the food will lose more of its nutritional value, which is why I highly advocate not trying to keep it past that suggested time. Having said that, if something gets away from you and you’re into the third year, don’t sweat it – just use the food.
As with any type of food storage, the bottom line is to STORE WHAT YOU EAT, and EAT WHAT YOU STORE. If you do that, you’re gonna be okay, if you do not – you will end up wasting a lotta money. Canning isn’t magic. It cannot make something perishable last indefinitely.
So what’s the point? And why should I can?
Because it’s a good way of extending the valuable useable time of perishable food, preserving good and nutritious food today, to use tomorrow. Instead of preparing for immediate consumption, you are preparing food that you can store for months! Make no mistake, canning IS cooking, but it allows us to capture the best flavour at the peak of season—to enjoy all-year long! Garden Roasted Tomato Sauce, Homemade Garden Salsa, a bowl of peaches, rhubarb to go on your morning oatmeal, raspberry jam – all in the middle of winter! THESE are why we can!
Back when my kids were young we canned a LOT of fruit. When the price was good we’d buy a 100+ pounds of peaches (our favourite) and pears, maybe 50 pounds of cherries, apricots or plums. I’d can half of the plums and dehydrate the rest. Though I did the bulk of the work during the day it was a big job, so it had to be a family affair. Dan always pitched in when he was home and we required the kids to help out. And yes, I got backlash from time to time (especially from one of our boys who shall remain unnamed at this point), but I flat out insisted that everybody help. We all enjoyed the end result of having peaches with breakfast in February, so it only made sense that we all pitch in to make that a possibility. At some point, when this one un-named boy was a teenager, he put his foot down and refused to be involved in the project anymore. HE was not peeling peaches (or pears or whatever it was). HE disliked the work and HE’D had enough! It was too much work for HIM – bordering on child abuse. He was too big to argue with so I told him that was fine, but it was unfair for him to expect to benefit from the effort of everyone else. As with everything there are always consequences, and the consequence to this choice would be that he’d be giving up enjoying the “fruits of our labour”. He couldn’t expect to eat peaches that someone else did all the work to put on the table. I reminded him that he enjoyed eating peaches in the winter. I also reminded him that the likelihood of me forgetting in February that he didn’t help in the summer was next to zero. He may have thought about it for all of thirty seconds, and in the end he trusted me, put on an apron and grabbed a peeler. I’m not gonna pretend he was happy about the job after that, but we never had to have the same conversation again.
My daughter on the other hand, looked forward to “canning season“. It was just as much work for her, but there was something about her that made that work enjoyable in its own way. My other boys were fine to pitch in and participate, it was after all – the means to the end we all wanted: fruit in the winter. Many memories were made in a hot and sticky kitchen on those long summer days.
One summer I went away for a week with a friend. Sarah was 14 years old, and diligently went through the grocery store sales flyers in my absence, as she had seen me do many times. At one point she saw that peaches were a ‘good’ price and she believed they would likely not still be that price when I came home. With urgency, she told her dad that he must pick up several boxes of peaches on his way home from work the next day – which of course he did. While I drove home from New Brunswick with Peggy, Sarah and Dan canned those peaches from beginning to the end. I was amazed when I got home, and kinda still am as I look back on it. I was very proud of her, and I wish that I had expressed that better than I did. I was proud not only that she felt it her ‘motherly’ duty to can peaches in my absence, but also that she took it upon herself to judge when the price was right, make the decision to buy, judge when they were ripe enough to bottle, and then take charge of actually getting it done. Dan wisely let her do all that, and then in typical Dan-style, he put on an apron and began peeling peaches.
the method
The method is to use high temperatures to kill microorganisms and inactivating enzymes that would cause food to spoil. The heating process pushes air from the jars, creating a vacuum seal as they cool. Without oxygen the bacteria, yeasts, and mould will not grow and the food will last a lot longer.
There are two methods: hot water canning, and pressure canning. They are NOT interchangeable. This article deals with HOT WATER canning. How do you know which method is used for which type of food? It’s pretty straight forward: high acid foods require the hot water method – the easiest. What are high acid foods? Most types of fruit and berries. Some suggestions to consider: Apples: apple juice, apple jelly, apple butter, apple sauce, apple pieces, crab apples … Apricots, apricot jam, Berries whole, berry jam, berry syrup, Cherries whole, cherry jam, cherry syrup, cherry juice, Cranberries whole, cranberry sauce, cranberry jelly, cranberry juice, Grapes, grape juice, grape jelly, Grapefruit and Orange sections, Citrus marmalade, Mixed fruit combinations (cocktail), Nectarines, Peaches, Pears, Pineapple, Plums, Rhubarb
adding acid in the form or lemon juice or vinegar
To most fruits I add a Tablespoon of lemon juice to a pint (500 ml), and 2 Tablespoons lemon juice to a quart (or litre), just as an added precaution. I don’t bother with rhubarb because that is acidic enough.
Tomatoes (yes tomato is a fruit): cold pack whole or cut up, tomato sauce. Less ripe tomatoes are more acidic. Very ripe tomatoes are sweeter and less acidic. (Can them before they’re very ripe and soft.) I add 2-4 T vinegar to my quart jars of tomatoes, depending on how ripe they are. Sometimes I use flavoured vinegar like basil vinegar – just for an added flavour that we like. Your choice.
Low acid foods require the higher temperatures that only using a pressure canner can provide. They include ALL vegetables and proteins.
Hot water canning involves boiling your fruit in glass jars in a big pot of water. There are pots specifically designed for this- called water bath canners – that consist of a large DEEP pot, a rack insert, and a lid. When purchasing, ensure that you have room for a quart jar to have at least two inches of water covering and plenty of room for water to boil. For small batch canning, I often just use my pasta pot because it checks all the boxes and its in my kitchen cupboard already so its handy. It is good for all my smaller jars: my pints, half pints and smaller that I may be using for jams or syrups.
If I am canning quart jars I use a bigger stock pot that I keep up high on my pantry shelf, so not easy to retrieve but not terribly inconvenient either. I can process up to seven quarts in this pot so its perfect! The important thing to remember when repurposing non-canning-specific pots is to put something on the bottom to prevent your jars from being directly on the bottom of your pot. A rack that will fit your pot will help keep the bottles from ‘jumping’ around when the water is fast boiling, preventing unnecessary trauma and possible breakage. If you have a rack that fits then go ahead and use it (I picked up a few different sizes from a thrift store years ago). Otherwise, use a folded dish towel in the bottom of your pot. You’re mostly trying to protect the bottles from banging around during boiling.
Boiling water is 212 degrees Fahrenheit, sufficient for high acid foods like most fruits, pickles, tomatoes, sauerkraut, relishes, salsas, and all sorts of jams. It is the acidity of these foods helps preserve them safely without the need of higher temperatures and pressure.
Supplies
Canning jars: not to be confused with single use jars. These are jars intended to be used at extremely high temperatures. Use ONLY clean jars without cracks or nicks in them.
Lids and rings (screw bands): those that are made for the particular jars you’re using. Do NOT reuse the metal snap lids; they are single use only.
Water bath canner: for water-bath canning, it isn’t necessary to purchase a special canner as long as you have a pot that has a fitted lid and is large enough to fully immerse the jars in water by 2 inches—and that will allow the water to boil when covered. You’ll also need a rack that fits inside the pot or canner.
Jar lifter: very important, this tool is relatively inexpensive but indispensable. It is essentially large tongs to assist you in putting jars into HOT water, and in removing them again out of boiling water.
Wide mouth Funnel: sure makes it easier to fill your jars without spilling and making a mess. You can buy plastic or stainless steal. I have both, but I prefer my stainless steal one. I use it for much more than camping – almost daily, for lots of applications.
Utensils: large spoon or ladle to fill jars, and a simple table knife to remove air bubbles.
Clean dish cloth to wipe jar rims, and clean dish towels upon which to place you processed jars.
10 Tips to Review Before you Start
Always use the FRESHEST produce possible – in peak condition. Overripe fruits are lower in acid and are already in a state of decomposing. It is important to know that produce begins to deteriorate IN THE HOUR it’s harvested, so fresh means AS IMMEDIATE AFTER HARVEST as you can get it.
Gather all your ingredients and equipment beforehand, so that they’re at your finger tips. It is so frustrating to realize at the point of no return, that you don’t have that extra bag of sugar or additional lids you thought you had.
It is critical to pay attention to “CLEAN” throughout every part of the process. Freshly CLEAN your jars in HOT soapy water – rinsed with hot water and set aside with a clean cloth cover. Sterilizing jars is good, but current advice is that if the food is going to be processed in a boiling water bath for at least 10 minutes, sterilizing is not necessary. CLEAN however is not negotiable; pay attention to it. If you have a dishwasher – running your clean jars through a cycle should get the job done. In years gone by, I always had my CLEAN jars in a hot oven till I used them, but I hardly ever take the time to do that anymore.
Use REAL canning jars, screw bands, and lids – intended for canning. Jars: Many jars that we may recycle are intended only as ‘single-use’ jars. They were not made to go in high temperatures and are liable to break. They also do not fit regular canning lids which are critical. Those single-use jars may be suitable for dry storage, but they are NOT suitable for canning. Lids: Use only NEW lids, not previously used. New lids have a rubber inner ring intended to seal during the process. They do not need to be heated to activate the sealing compound before placing on the jar top, but I usually heat them anyway – by placing them either in a pan of water that I bring to a boil, or by dipping them into the boiling hot water bath with a lid holder that I have for that purpose. This is just one further way of ensuring they’re CLEAN.
5. “Head Space” is the air space from the top of the contents of the to the top of the jar; it is important to ensure the jar seals properly. Head space and can vary depending on the food (usually between 1/4 inch to 1 inch but on average – 1/2 inch). During the boiling process, contents of your jars expand, and if the head space is too little for the contents (bigger contents like peaches, pears or tomatoes for example) the contents may expand into headspace and jeopardize the clean seal of the lid. Insufficient head space may even cause the contents to boil over and escape the lid, causing a big mess in your canner and again, jeopardizing the seal. You could leave up to an inch to prevent those contents from expanding into the headspace. It is important to remember that even liquid expands when it boils.
So what about too much headspace? If too much headspace is left, the food on the top may discolour in time. That in itself isn’t a terrible thing, but in the case of too much air, processing time may be inadequate to push out all the oxygen within the jar, again preventing a good vacuum and therefore a proper seal. Having said that, I’ve had times when the syrup in my fruit boiled over (having not left sufficient head space) and yet the jar sealed. I’ve had times that everything seemed perfect and yet the stupid jar didn’t seal. I’ve had time that I left too much head space and the jar sealed and times that I had too much when it didn’t seal. The bottom line is that we’re looking for optimum protection from potential spoilage through aerobic bacteria (an organism that can survive and grow in an ‘oxygenated’ environment) so we want to do our best to follow proper canning procedures. In principle, following the procedures closely will leave us with no oxygen in the jar. We’ll know we accomplished this when the jar seals.
6. It is VERY important is to wipe the jar rim and threads clean before putting on the lid and screw band. Having any fruit or syrup residue along the top will prevent a good seal with the lid. When putting on the ring / screw band – don’t tighten more than finger tight. It’s job is not to seal the jar, it is to keep the lid in place while the jar is processed and during the cooling process when the vacuum is complete. After 24 hours the ring can be removed to reuse on other jars.
7. Using the jar lifter, place each jar on the rack in the boiling water. I always put the jars in at a slight diagonal to prevent a possible air bubble creating in the slight dome on the jar bottom. Make sure that the jars are covered by at least 1 to 2 inches of water. Cover the pot with lid and bring the pot to the boil. Start counting processing time once the water has returning to a boil. I usually turn the heat down a bit to keep it at a steady rolling boil but not a furious boil. Allowing the water to hard boil at high heat the whole time, may cause some water loss. If that happens simply top it up with small amounts of new water making sure you don’t pour directly onto the jars.
8. When processing time is done, turn off the heat and remove the canner lid venting the steam away from yourself. Remove each jar with the jar lifter and place upright on a nice thick clean tea towel to cool. Keep a space between them of 1 to 2 inches. Let jars cool 12-24 hours. Do NOT make the mistake of tightening the rings as soon as you remove your jars from the canner. It’s typical that the rings may loosen a bit during processing – that’s okay. Adjusting them while the jars are hot may disturb the seal and interfere with successful sealing. Overcome that rookie temptation.
9. How do you know a jar has sealed? Another rookie temptation I’ve seen people give into is pushing the centre of the lid when the jar is still hot. Their intention is to “finish the seal”, but that is not what happens. The natural ‘ping’ of the jar sealing on its own is indication that it’s sealed. By interfering you don’t have that indication and you will not know if it has properly sealed. It is important to test each jar to ensure it’s sealed properly before putting it away. Wait until the jars have cooled at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours before you test the seals. You may notice that the level of the contents is lower. Relax. It’s okay and it is what it is.
A vacuum is created during the sealing process, by drawing the oxygen out of the jar – pulling the lid down, forming a shallow depression in the centre of it. So what you’re looking for is a concaved lid. * Gently press the centre of the lid with your finger. If it is properly sealed there will be no give, Great. If the lid springs down and up when you press and release your finger, there is no seal, Shucks! Don’t despair. It happens sometimes, especially in the beginning when you’re learning. Put that jar in the fridge and eat the contents in the next few days.
In general, your canned foods should last all year long, as long as they are stored in a cool, dry place. When you open your jar, you should have considerable resistance and need a spoon or table knife to loosen it. It should POP audibly when the seal is broken. If it opens too easily – like with your hand, the lid is NOT sealed and that’s a sure sign that air has gotten in. Not good. Do not keep it. Dispose of immediately.
What signs am I looking for down the road, that a seal has been jeopardized? *a broken seal (the lid is no longer concave) – this is likely because it wasn’t a good seal to begin with; *a bulging lid (in home canned or commercially canned food) is a sign of spoilage; *a lid (not the outside ring) that is corroded or rusty is a sign of spoilage; *when you open your jars or cans and see mould or bubbles or cloudiness, its a sign of spoilage. In all these cases – dispose of the contents immediately.
10. One sign that your jars have sealed properly is the gentle “popping” or “pinging” sound” you hear as the jars cool. The wonderful sound of jars ‘pinging’ is music to the ears of anyone who home cans. It tells you “Job Well Done!” Now all you have to do is wipe up the mess and wait for the next round. Jars that don’t seal can NOT be stored. Put them in the fridge and use within a few days.
It might sound at this point, that its all problems but in actual fact MOST jars seal, so relax – you’re doing the right thing. Home canning is still a good way to preserve food. Because you canned, you can enjoy the taste of summer fruits (and vegetables if you pressure can) in the middle of winter, and you can also customize recipes to suit your family’s taste preferences and dietary needs.
Botulism
The biggest concern of any canning is botulism poisoning. Botulism is an illness caused by the botulinum toxin, and make no mistake – it can be deadly. It wasn’t that long ago that botulism was a real thing and something most people knew enough to be fearful of, but not always how to avoid it. Even today I hear people say things like “My grandmother canned all her vegetables in a hot water canner and they never had a problem.” That makes my blood run chill. I am ashamed to say I was also one of those idiots who blatantly and foolishly disregarded my father’s warning about botulism and canning vegetables without a pressure canner. I didn’t take it seriously in those days and I’m sure I caused some him some unnecessary stress by my flippant attitude. It’s a dangerous game to play. People die from stupid attitudes like that. My father’s sister died of typhoid fever when she was just 15 years old. It was scary and people didn’t always know what caused it or how to avoid it. My grandmother knew it stemmed from contaminated water, and for the rest of her life she was vigilant about unseen contaminants. She boiled their water for years, and my memories of her were always that she was very concerned about germs. My dad was a ‘germaphobe’ decades before I ever heard the word, and though it was frustrating to live with it, I came to have more understanding for him when I realized that though he was only 6 years old when his sister died, and had few memories of her or the situation surrounding her death, he was raised by a mother who lost a daughter to typhoid. That’s pretty life defining. It shaped him, and he helped shape me. My whole life, he was vigilant about foodbourne or waterbourne illnesses. I’m glad I smartened up, but I do regret the worry I caused him.
In actual fact, the bacteria that causes botulism occurs naturally in soil and normally doesn’t cause a threat to people. However, they is a very hardy type of bacteria which thrives in LOW-ACID, low-oxygen environments, like those we create when we can foods – more accurately, when food is canned improperly. The bacteria grows and produces their deadly toxin botulin, making the food unfit for consumption of humans or animals alike.
65% of botulism outbreaks have been traced to home-processed foods. It is not common but it is NOT A THING OF THE PAST.
It is critical that the environment INSIDE the bottled or canned goods be inhospitable to the bacteria by canning only high ACID foods (most fruits) at normal water boiling temperatures of 212 degrees Fahrenheit or 100 degrees Celcius (HOT WATER BATH CANNING). Low acid foods (all vegetables and proteins) must be processed at 240 degrees F which can only be accomplished under pressure (PRESSURE CANNING) . For this reason, even when canning high acid foods I habitually add additional acid in the form of a tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice to my tomatoes and a tablespoon of lemon juice to all my fruit as an additional acid precaution (in honour of my dad).
I no longer preserve in the same quantity I used to. For one, I don’t have five growing kids living in my house anymore. And I no longer buy fruit for the purpose of canning. I preserve the EXCESS of what I produce myself, and sometimes excess that is given to me – which is MORE than what we can enjoy FRESH. I believe in eating IN the SEASON as much as possible, and preserving excess while its at it’s best.
Another reason I don’t can in the same quantity anymore is that there seems to be no such thing as ‘a good price’ for the fruit I used to can so much of. This makes it necessary to be more creative in what and how I preserve, and more ready to take opportunities when they come our way. It makes it more important for me to have a home garden and to make friends with the fruits and vegetables that want to grow in my part of the world. It makes it all the more important for me to find good nutritious food in times of plenty and to learn to preserve the excess of it for times of less.
And yet another reason I don’t can in the same quantity that I used to, is that about 12 years ago I discovered freeze dried food which has an extended shelf life and higher nutritional value. Not everything is suitable to be freeze dried, just as not everything is suitable for canning, drying or freezing. I love that I have the flexibility to take advantage of all preserving options. Click HERE to see other methods of preserving, and the freeze dried food I prefer.
– to review – JARS: YES – Jars that are made for repeated high heat use (they will always have a brand name on them) YES – run finger over the rim before using to ensure no chips or cracks YES – wash well with hot soapy water, rinse with hot water before using NO – reuse single use jars like mayonnaise or pickle jars for canning NO – not necessary to sterilize jars that will be processed at least 10 minutes in hot water bath
LIDS and rings: YES – lids and rings made and intended for this express purpose on these particular jars NO – never ever ever re-use a lid except for dry storage NO – not necessary to heat lids, but I do it anyway
Hot water bath canning YES – high acid foods like most fruits, slightly unripe better than over ripe. Perfectly ripe is ideal. NO – to over ripe fruit which is no longer high acid, but rather high sugar NO – to any vegetable or protein – considered low acid foods. These must be pressure canned.
Processing YES – ensure water is two inches or more above the tallest jar YES – check a reliable and trusted source to confirm the recommended time YES – begin timing after water has returned to a rolling boil YES – reduce heat so that water isn’t violently boiling, but high enough to keep a steady boil NO – not enough water to top jars sufficiently NO – guessing at timing for pints or quarts NO – start timing too early
Removal and confirming seal YES – set hot jars on an insulated cloth to ensure the coolness of counter doesn’t come in contact with the bottom of the jar YES – set them with air space between, and lightly cover with cloth to avoid them cooling too fast YES – you’re listening for a gentle ‘ping’ sound telling you the jar has sealed NO – NEVER push or tap the lid. Let it seal on its own. NO – don’t put them away too early. Leave for 24 hours YES – you can remove the ring after 24 and confirming seal JAR IS SEALED WHEN THE LID IN CONCAVED (curved slightly inwards) IN THE CENTRE.
In many ways it was easier back then, when I could count on finding peaches for a good price every July or August. All told, thousands of man-hours were spent in my kitchen by those who would eat later as well as today. I am glad I took those opportunities to learn the skill. I am glad for all that practice. I believe it is an important skill to have.
So go ahead, can the apples, cherries or plums or other high acid fruits that you grow. Find some recipes for jams that sound good to you, or that friends share with you. I’ll share some of my favourite jam recipes in another post. Find some recipes for sauces and salsa – I’ll share my favourites in another post. One of the fruits I can the most is tomatoes (and yes – tomato is a fruit). I fresh-can them and I roast them in the oven to can for sauces later. I have also begun canning rhubarb – never thought I’d see the day, but we love it in the winter this way.
I hope you’ll tell me about your experiences, including your successes and failures. Failure is just another lesson learned about how not to do it again. I’ve had lots of those – you likely will too. Have fun!
I think we might agree that Sesame Street was a great neighbourhood to live in; even Oscar was endearing. But a good neighbourhood doesn’t have to be fictional. A neighbourhood is made of real people like you and me. And yes, each one may even have an Oscar, and its even possible he or she may not want to ‘partake’ of whatever you’re offering. That’s okay. He can do him, but that doesn’t mean others can’t enjoy the spirit of ‘community and neighbourliness with or without him.
Sometimes people really do come together in an emergency or crises, but the better time to start building those relationships is long before – simply by BEING a good neighbour. How do you do that?
Here are 8 keys to being a good neighbour
1. Look UP. It’s not that hard – simply look up, open your eyes and notice things. See people coming and going. Say hello or at least give a wave. You’re more likely to notice little details with your eyes open and a caring heart. Perhaps someone could use a wave, or a smile, or a hand, or maybe something more. Chat a bit in the driveway from time to time. Chat in the front yard. Chat with the neighbour down the street when you’re walking the dog.
2. Smile. It cannot be overstated – a smile really will make someone’s day better, and yours too.
3. Be kind. Something so simple can really make all the difference.
4. Lend a hand. Could they use a hand bringing some groceries to the door? Would it really put you out if you pitched in? What about offering to mow their lawn when they go away? What about bringing over a quart of homemade soup when you hear someone’s not feeling well? A loaf of fresh bread? When you’re shoveling your sidewalk, how difficult would it be to simply go a little further and shovel your neighbour’s.
5. Be tolerant. Not everyone’s gonna do things that way you do. Your neighbour may have young kids when you don’t, that may mean more noise than you make. Cool your jets, they won’t stay kids forever. Your patience with bikes all over the front yard and kids shooting baskets in your driveway will go a long way. Kids grow up, and those days will end. It’s a lot easier for your neighbours to be tolerant of you and yours if you extend the same courtesy. Learn to laugh it off – that’s where funny memories are born.
6. Invite Invite them over to sit around a backyard fire. Invite them for dinner. Invite them to go for a walk. Host a neighbourhood party.
7. Work together.
Many years ago Dan decided it would be a helpful thing to have a snow blower, we live in a crescent and the snow plows rarely come into crescents. But the half dozen times we might use it in a year hardly seemed worth the price. But IF we could share that cost with others . . . he spoke with some neighbours, and four of us bought one together – with a few simple ground rules. Still using it. Still a good experience.
The border between our front lawn and our neighbours front lawn is vague – so for nearly the whole time we’ve lived here, whoever mows the lawn – mows both. Such a simple service – takes an extra five minutes, and both of us always have a mowed front lawn. When I do for walks and see front lawns with an obvious mowed border, I am always surprised. Such a small effort to make both yards look nicer and extend that hand of friendship and service.
8. Keep your house and yard neat and tidy. No one wants to live beside or across from a slob. It is respectful to your neighbours to take care of your property. When we first moved back to the city many years ago, for Dan to go back to school – we lived in subsidized housing. As soon as the snow melted, we dug our small area of dirt in a sunny spot and planted flowers, some herbs and even a few tomatoes. We lived there for three summers and though we were the only ones that first summer to do so, I noticed that the following summer some of our neighbours planted flowers, and the next year even more did.
Good neighbourhoods don’t just ‘happen’
My husband’s parents lived in a little house in a nice little neighbourhood. They pretty much stuck to themselves, didn’t much care to get to know their neighbours. They weren’t rude, they kept their yard tidy. But they never reached out. They never offered to lend a hand. They just did what they did and minded their own business. In time they got older and needed some help. We drove an hour one way to mow their lawn when they couldn’t, to rototill their garden, and to do all sorts of little things that we were happy to help them with, but were too far away to be help on the day to day. I marveled that there wasn’t a single nearby friend, church member, or neighbour that we maybe could have asked for a hand once in a while. But their wasn’t. After almost 40 years of living in and around that same general area, there wasn’t anyone they felt comfortable asking a favour of. Why? Because they weren’t really “good neighbours” themselves.
Good neighbourhoods just don’t happen on their own. They’re not magic like that. Being a good neighbour is the building block of a good and friendly neighbourhood. That doesn’t mean we have to all be the same, just be nice. Good neighbours watch out for each other. Good neighbours keep an eye on each other’s property when they’re away. Good neighbours care about each other. When emergencies happen, good neighbours pitch in and help each other through it, and THEREIN LIES THE KEY TO THIS CONVERSATION.
You cannot live in a ‘good’ neighbourhood if you’re not a good neighbour. It doesn’t work that way. And you may think you don’t need your neighbours – until you fall on your icy sidewalk, or someone breaks into your house, or your spouse has a heart attack, or your house is on fire, . . . . or when any number of other reasonable and perfectly normal scenarios happen.
Being a good neighbour is important for everyone because it makes good neighbourhoods. It means safety, a sense of belonging, a helping hand, purpose, charity, empathy and friendship. It takes TIME, investment, kindness, charity, empathy and friendship.
Share Your Ideas:
I’d love to hear your thoughts about how having strong community connections helps us, and ways you might make neighbourhood a better place. After all, WE’RE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER.
Now is the time to extend the hand of friendship to our neighbours – and yes, I even mean the ‘Oscar’ on your street. We can start with those who live on either side of us. If we don’t know their names yet, LEARN their names and two facts about them. Then reach out to those on the other side of each of them, and those across from us. Learn THEIR names and two facts about them. Make it a game to accomplish these goals, and then continue on with those on the other side of them, and so on.
