Composting – making something outta nothing

“Compost is a product that results from the slow decomposition of plant and animal material by living organisms. It is nature’s way of recycling the nutrients that exist in all living things and returning them to the soil to enrich and feed further generations.”
– Pauline Pears in Organic Book of Compost.

40% of all household waste is compostable.

So WHO should be composting? And WHAT should we compost? And WHERE would one set up a compost? And WHY would we bother? And HOW do we go about it? HOW does it all work? Lets go through those valid questions.

WHO?

Everyone! You do not need a large yard. You do not need a science degree or expensive equipment. And yes something as simple as kitchen and yard waste can make a difference. Turning what would otherwise be wasted into something valuable is somehow empowering. You are taking control of another area in your life. You are in fact, taking responsibility for managing a good part of the waste you produce, instead of making it someone else’s problem. It is the responsible thing to do. When we look at the big picture, it’s hard to believe that our pitiful contribution can have much environmental impact, but the small project of household compost means we are part of a solution, NOT the problem.

What is the personal benefit our of compost? As in why bother?

1. Using the compost you produce, helps your future garden grow. It in fact becomes rich, loamy, dark brown soil , “whole food” for plants, providing nutrients and fiber. The more it breaks down the more it improves, making nutrients even more available.
2. Compost increases your soil’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, which naturally wastes less water, and reduces the need for water.
3. A natural fertilizer, compost contains balanced amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and other important minerals.
4. Improves the composition and texture of the soil, making heavy clay soil lighter so it drains better, and adding body to sandy soil so that it holds water and nutrients better.

WHAT

What you compost is categorized into two simple groups: GREENS and BROWNS.

GREENS = wet, sappy material that breaks down readily
BROWNS = dry fibrous material that is slower to decompose.

A good compost needs a balance of both. Too many greens will make your compost too wet and too many browns will make it too dry. Both conditions will impede proper decomposition and progress. Greens are nitrogen rich, and often referred to as HOT. Hot means they have the ability to burn plants if used in too high of concentrations, or too ‘raw’ – like chicken manure. It also means that it creates heat in compost that is necessary for the breakdown of material.

There is no BEST way to compost. What works best for me, might not work for you at all, and vice versa. What worked for me years ago, doesn’t work anymore. The BEST way for you to compost is the way that’s going to work best for your situation right now. Do you have a big garden? a big yard? so that you can afford more space for your compost? Do you have a small yard? maybe even a town house? perhaps an apartment? When space is limited, naturally you have fewer options for space, but that doesn’t exclude the possibility of having a compost. Don’t make excuses for why you canNOT have a compost. Find ways you can make it work. The secret is to mesh your compost with your lifestyle. If its to inconvenient, good intensions are soon abandoned.

FROM THE HOUSE –
I use ALL fruit and vegetable trimmings, scraps and leftovers for compost. I also use paper and cardboard. I do not use meat trimmings or scraps of any kind. (see below)

Citrus –
Worth mentioning separately, because there are different schools of thought that warn against using citrus. Evidently, citrus peels take a long time to break down due to the natural chemicals and acidity which repel worms and other microorganisms, sometimes even killing them. Personally, I add citrus and onions (which some also warn against). My thinking is that in the big picture, citrus makes up such a small percentage of my total composting material, that I simply don’t have time to fuss about it. On the other hand, if I had a LOT of citrus, or if I was composting on a very small scale – like in an apartment using worms, I would probably avoid citrus peels because I don’t want to risk hurting my worms. But in a normal household compost, don’t worry about that. Just how many oranges do you eat anyway? I use ALL produce.

Coffee grounds –
improve soil looseness.  They are a good nitrogen source for composting, but use with moderation as they are acidic and excess acid prevents the compost from heating up. Adding them directly to the garden may be too much direct acid for the novice gardener, but blending them with everything else in your compost is perfect.
We don’t drink coffee in our house, so once or twice a year we’ll go to our local Tim Hortons with a pail and ask for their day’s left over grounds. They don’t save them usually, so we leave our pail and pick it up the next day. I remove the paper filters when I dump the pail into our compost bin. In a normal household I wouldn’t hesitate to use whatever coffee grounds are produced. I’d totally call that moderation. Again, how much can one normal household produce?

Meat, fish, fats, oils and dairy –
Can these protein foods be composted? Of course they can. Everything that ever lived is compostable. With meat, fish and dairy however, you risk attracting unwelcome pests like flies, mice, and cats, even skunks, racoons and coyotes if you live in an urban area, or bears if you live in rural areas. Its the smell of rotting meat that is offensive to humans but attractive to animals. There are many composters however, who do compost meat, being careful to cover it with a layer of sawdust or other dry material to minimize odours. There are others who say that decomposing meat contains bacteria you don’t want, while others say the heat generated takes care of it. In the end, you-do-you. I prefer not to deal with it.

Paper products –
Most paper products are great for composting. Thin printed paper like newspapers are perfect. Help speed up the process by shredding them or ripping them up when you throw them into the bin. Also paper towels and tissues and even shredded cardboard. They are from trees, after all! Avoid coloured glossy paper like magazine pages as they have been treated with coatings to make them so bright. Not only do they not break down well, they contain toxins that are best left avoided.
I also add paper towel rolls, toilet paper rolls, paper egg cartons, newsprint flyers that come to the door, some packing papers, as well as many brown cardboards. Just rip them up and add them to your compost bin.

Egg shells –
are a rich source of calcium and other essential nutrients that plants need. Not only are they excellent for your compost, but many people also add them directly to the soil they are transplanting vegetables seedlings into. If you throw eggshells directly into your kitchen pail and then transfer it directly to your garden compost, you may find some undecomposed egg shells the following spring. Not to worry, they’ll finish decomposing. But if you take the time to dry your shells, and then crush them before adding them to your compost or garden, you’ll speed up the process, and reduce the inconvenience.

Walnuts –
NO. Walnut shells, nuts, leaves and bark should not be used in compost destined for a vegetable garden. Walnut trees release a chemical called juglone which occurs naturally and is toxic to some vegetables and plants. Some say that the leaves can be composted because the juglone toxin breaks down when exposed to air, water and bacteria, with the toxic effect degraded within a few weeks, but to me – why take the chance? In my part of Alberta, walnuts don’t grow anyway, but if you’re in southern BC or the western states, then you already know that walnut trees are not a gardener’s friend, and you already know what to avoid. Apparently, compost containing walnut residue is excellent for lawns. For the rest of us – I choose not to put walnut shells in my compost. Its an easy choice.

Old straw or wood shaving bedding from small pets like hamsters–
Yes. Just dump the soiled bedding into your compost bin and let it age like everything else.

Indoor plants that become infested with bugs or disease –
NO. Get rid of them. In a bag, into the trash. Don’t risk spreading disease or pests.

FROM THE YARD

First spring mowing –
will include a lot of great brown material like dead grass, snow mold, dead leaves etc. HOLD ON! Don’t bag it all up and haul out with the garbage. Mow them up and use as the base of a new compost pile.

Grass clippings throughout the year –
Yes – But! Grass clippings are usually green and moist. They matt and break down, but prevent moisture from getting through them when they matt. For this reason its not a good idea to use as plant mulch fresh from the lawn mower. Best to spread them out and maybe even toss them with a fork the next day or two to prevent that matting, and let them dry a bit. I have an area that I have Dan dump the clippings, them I spread it out with a rake. A couple of days later I spread it out again, and that should do it. I don’t want to miss out on their goodness.
For the compost bin – absolutely. Green grass is quick to decay, adding nitrogen which helps everything around it decay.

NO – when you’ve recently treated your lawn with weed killer or fertilizer. Give it a mowing or two before adding to your compost.

Garden waste and weeds –
Another Yes But! Anything organic from your garden is fabulous and is best returned to it. Some weeds like dandelions, thistles and quack grass, spread through root cuttings, so be prepared that you might be creating more by recycling them. Also, some weeds spread through seeds, so it they’re already gone to seed, you may be recycling those weeds again the following year. If seeds are tough enough to get through a 40 below winter, they’re probably tough enough to make it through the decomposition process of a typical compost.

If you’re weeding before the weeds go to seed, you should be fine to use them. Most weeds that I pull from my garden go straight into the compost.

Wood –
Small pieces of wood scraps and small branches are perfect additions to your compost bin. All untreated wood will decompose, but obviously bigger pieces like logs or big branches are going to take a lot longer. Breaking down large branches through a wood chipper will make all the difference.

Sawdust –
is another great addition in moderation, but not all sawdust is equal. If the wood has been pressure treated, varnished, stained or painted, the toxic compounds in those chemicals will not break down, and can negatively affect the microorganism activity, and ultimately the health of future plants. This is totally logical, as those chemicals are used to protect the wood from decay in the first place. Not something you want in your garden.

Dog or cat waste –
NO! Not in a normal compost as it is yucky, stinky and has bad bacteria. However, there are many who have specific compost containers for it. More power to them. I’m not of that persuasion. That’s all I have to say about that.

Rabbit or Chicken bedding / droppings –
*Rabbits: Unlike the droppings of other animals, rabbit pellets are a great addition to any compost and even straight into the vegetable garden at the end of the year. It is generally considered that after six months any pathogens that survived the heat of the compost are sufficiently broken down. Rabbit manure is considered GREEN – so add equal amounts of straw, wood shavings, leaves or other BROWNS to balance it out. It is rich in nitrogen, so is a great way to give your plants the boost they need for strong, healthy growth. If you or your friendly neighbour have rabbits, you’ll always have an excellent source of nitrogen for your compost pile. Yay for Rabbits!

*Chickens: Chicken manure is an excellent addition to your compost. It increases the water holding capacity and beneficial organic makeup of your garden, contributing more of the critical elements – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (by about three times!) than horse, cow or steer manure! (particularly good for tomatoes bytheway) It is so high in nitrogen (GREENS), you’ll want to be sure you’re adding sufficient BROWNS to balance it, but the way I look at it, I am usually adding chicken manure WITH the straw bedding anyway – so, problem averted.

Don’t be tempted to use it ‘raw’ – straight from the chicken coop. It can burn and damage your plants, as well as potentially carrying pathogens that can harm people. As with other manures, it really should be composted / aged before using.  Six to nine months is plenty of time, and since in our climate, your compost is likely frozen much of November through mid April, count one gardening season to the next gardening season. If you use that as a safe rule of thumb and you cannot go wrong.

Ash –
Wood ash is great to add IF it is clean ashes. Dan used to use diesel to start his fires in the firepit, but even months later when you shovel out the fire pit, you can still smell the diesel. Bad sign. We also used to burn a lot of scrap wood that was often varnished or otherwise treated. I have made a concerted effort the last few years, to clean up out fire pit burning so that I can use the ashes in the garden. No gas or diesel. No treated wood, including varnished or oil based painted wood. No coal or charcoal ash, as they contains enough sulfur to make the soil excessively acidic, and harmful to plants. Many charcoal briquets are treated with chemicals. When you’re burning old tree logs, leaves and other brown garden waste, your ashes will be a welcome, moderate addition to your compost bin. As with most things in life, moderation is key.

Diseased or pest infested outside plant material –
NO. Get rid of them. Once in a while I might lose a Delphinean to some kind of infestation. I cut if off, put it into a plastic bag and dispose of it. I do not want to keep it on the property and risk re-infecting a different area. If you have a plant that died inexplicably, don’t risk passing that disease on. Get rid of it. Remove it completely from your property, in a plastic bag.

WHERE?

Where is it going to work for you? Sometimes you don’t have a whole lotta choice. Ideally, you want it in the sun to keep it warm. Ideally, you want it close to your garden so transferring the finished soil is easy. Ideally, you want it away from your sitting area – for obvious reasons. But ‘ideal’ is not always possible. Sometimes, you just have to put it where it fits. And its not like you’re putting in a foundation. If, in a few years, it needs to be moved, then move it.
Don’t fret about the perfect spot for now. Just get it ‘somewhere’ so you can find out if its gonna work there or not. Next spring, you may change your mind if you want.

WHY?

Your compost pile will turn once living matter from your yard and your kitchen into rich, dark, wonderful, soil. Combine yard waste like grass clippings, leaves, and garden weeds with kitchen waste like fruit and vegetable trimmings, even leftover yesterday’s dinner, and you’re good to go. Essentially you’re taking what cannot be used and making it useable. The real question is “WHY NOT?”

Is compost the same as fertilizer?

I like to compare fertilizer to vitamins. For all intents and purposes, it is the same thing: vitamins for plants. Fertilizer feeds plants in a similar way to how vitamin supplements ‘feed’ us. For the record, I am not opposed to vitamins, but they are not ‘food’. And fertilizer is not ‘food’, it is not intended to feed the soil, it is intended to meet the need of specific plants. Rather short term.
Compost on the other hand, is food for the soil. It amends the actual composition of the soil, making and keeping it a healthy home in which healthy plants flourish, Compost and organic fertilizers can work together in the same way that nutritious food and good supplements can work together for our body’s health. The organic matter in compost not only increases fertility by providing trace nutrients that plants need, but also increases its ability to hold moisture, which helps release the nutrients in organic fertilizer. Soil that is regularly amended with aged manure and compost is soil that will stay healthy, providing a healthy environment for plants.

HOW?

How do you go about creating your first Compost?
or How do you resurrect a compost that wasn’t all that successful?

How does Composting work?
Composting will happen with or without you. It is the natural process carried out by millions of tiny creepy crawlies, all uniquely organized for this purpose. Most are microscopic, while others such as worms and insects, you can see. Its that great circle of life. All you have to do is to keep things natural enough that those creatures are welcome and safe in your compost yard.

Different methods
There is no end to the different bins/containers for composting you can employ . From big to small, from free to expensive, from an eyesore to fitting right into your garden – and everything in between. If you’re handy and like the DIY thing, you can make make your own with wood, or a garbage can, or buy one already to go. Your available space will likely be the biggest influencer in your options and will ultimately determine your decision. 

Our first attempts at composting were with varying degrees of success.

#1 was just a wooden frame and we put everything in it with no idea of how to layer, what not to add, how to toss and even what to expect. To sum it up, it was pretty much an organic garbage pile and very unsightly. It was also in a spot visible from the alley, which didn’t endear us to our neighbours I’m sure. And because we didn’t have an end goal, we never really knew when it was ‘done’. I’d like to forget about that one, and my apologies to all our former neighbours, who for the record, were all kind and patient with us. We were young, and most of them were considerably older. I think they thought our efforts were ‘cute’ and they were just glad someone was taking care of the property .

Our #2 was slightly better. Another house. We dug a hole in the far corner of our garden and we tossed everything into it. We had a better idea, but a marginally better plan. In the early spring, we forked it out and spread the resulting rich soil, but other than that, we hardly ever paid attention to it. Unfortunately, on the other side of the fence our neighbours had a nice tidy sitting area. Our compost attracted flies and apparently had an odour we hadn’t made note of. Our neighbour was kind, but asked if we could cover it for his benefit. Sorry again.

the UPRIGHT plastic bin

Our #3 was the purchase of a black upright bin. It cost about $100 which was really pricey for us in those days, but at least it was contained. We filled it up throughout the warm months, let it sit for the winter, and tipped it over in the spring to fork out the resulting soil. There was always a upper layer that didn’t break down, so we put that in the bottom of the current year’s collection. It was more successful. And tidier. The black colour kept it warm in the summer, which helps. My one criticism was that it didn’t allow for much air circulation. That perhaps affected the final result, but it was still adequate for our needs.

Over the years, I paid a little more attention to layering better with greens and browns. Dan and I had different expectations from our compost, and different opinions about what should go into it. *For instance, he didn’t like putting corn husks or cobs into the compost because there were always rogue ‘undigested’ cobs (and egg shells) the following spring. I on the other hand, didn’t mind that. They just got mixed up with the rest of the soil in the spring, and soon enough ceased to exist. That was good enough for me. And in corn season, corn on the cob is a family favourite, so we always had plenty of corn compostables in August. I couldn’t bear to waste them.
*Dan always put the first spring yard mowings into bags and hauled them out to the garbage cans for pick up. He was all about ‘tidy’. If I saw them in time, I’d haul them back into the yard and dump them in the compost ‘area’ as my bin couldn’t handle it all. I am all about ‘compost’. We’re not always on the same page lol.
*If there was anything identifiable left in the compost bin when we emptied it in the spring, Dan felt that it was a failure and we should stop doing it because clearly we don’t know how. I on the other hand, didn’t expect everything to have disappeared, and I didn’t mind those last contributions from the year before still looking like their former lives. So we just agree to not talk about it, and I take care of the compost. It works. We’ve found our peace.

When we moved to our current house, we brought our black upright bin with us, where it served us well for many years. But it began showing its age, and last spring, died. I threw the top half in the garbage and continued using the bottom half till it didn’t suffice anymore. I gave it a proper funeral, and we came up with another style that so far is working beautifully. See below.

the TUMBLER:

A tumbler is a bin designed to turn on an axle or to roll, allowing the ingredients to mix as it is turned. If you have a small yard and garden which is visible to your back deck, then a tumbler may be a good fit. It is neat and tidy, rotates easily – keeping the compost itself tossed and aerated. As it is a closed unit, you don’t have to worry about a bad smell or animals getting into it, and its easy to dump out. It speeds up the process from the whole season, to about half the time.

A tumbler is limited in size and so you’re restricted in the amount you can compost – which may suit you just fine if you don’t have a big yard anyway. They can be kinda pricey, but there are always options to maybe pick one up second hand, or to make one yourself. You will need to make sure you balance your contents out by putting in brown material or you could end up with a stink slimy mess of rotten kitchen produce. They generally have a trap door for adding material, adding water if needed and from which to dump the finished product.

homemade wooden bin with wire netting

I love this style. It is compact, but big enough to last a typical backyard garden all season.

The wire allows for air circulation.
The lid can be closed if there is a lot of rain, but still allows the sun to still do its magic.
I love the trap door in the front which makes it accessible to fork out the bottom next spring.

If its made with cedar it could be a little pricey, but will last a long time, so it will be worth it in my opinion. I’ve seen this same style made with three compartments, allowing for bigger yards, bigger gardens, more material.

Repurposed plastic garbage can

This is our #4 Compost bin, and it is perfect for us right now.
It is an extra large garbage can turned upside down. Dan cut the bottom out for me to make a new ‘top’. He drilled lots of holes around the main body to allow for air. I filled it last summer so we added a second toward the end of the season. The idea is to simply tip it over in the spring, like I did for years with the black one, then fork out the new soil.
Because our compost area is in the very back of our garden, it is rarely visible so it doesn’t need to be ‘pretty’. It is surprising how ‘full’ a compost bin can get and how much it compacts. This can was full to overflowing more than a couple of times during the season, and things would settle as it decomposed, always making room for other material. When I went out to have a look at it recently, it is only about half full, although I know that at the end of the season last fall, I couldn’t put anything else in it.

This image is from a reader – Meagan Kessler, and I am using it with her permission. Look in the upper left of center, about 11:00, to see a garbage can painted the same colour as her fence (brilliant bytheway). It has the bottom cut out of it, and several holes drilled into the body of it to all for more airflow and therefore, better composition.
It is the perfect solution for her small townhouse lot. Meagan said she would did a hole in the spring and empty its mostly composted contents into it, where it would finish the process. Though Meagan says it was less than ideal, it worked well for her over 14 years. At the end of the day, you’d still end up ahead by repurposing all those food scraps and putting them back into your soil. I think its a great example of using what you have, and making what you have work. Thank you Meagan.

Basic Needs

There really is no ‘right’ container, and no ‘wrong’ container. It is completely about what’s gonna work for your situation: your garden/yard size, your budget, your skill level, your level of commitment to composting, your preferences.
– Your compost needs a healthy place to BE.
– It needs a good balance of greens and browns. Browns like sticks and cardboard etc, give the compost structure and provide air pockets.
– Your compost needs air.
– Greens give it nitrogen which speeds up the decomposition.
– It needs moisture, but we all know, that too much ‘wet’ is not good either. If it is pouring rain for days, its good to have a lid to keep your compost from flooding and drowning the tiny creatures that live there. You’ll know if its too wet, it will be slimy and mucky and may begin to smell bad.
– There should be good drainage so that water doesn’t build up in the bottom. Normally, mine just sits on the ground. Sometimes I have small branches and twigs in the bottom, sometimes I’ve even raised the black upright container a little off the ground with bricks or logs.
– Warmth keeps a compost happy. It can’t always be in a sunny spot – we all know there are only so many of those to go around, but try to at least situate it in a warm spot.

Compost is Ready

In the central Alberta climate I live in, (zone 3A), traditional composting season is generally from May through September. I start mine as soon as it is warm enough to dump out last year’s compost – and that is usually further into May than I think it should be. That big clump of compost sometimes takes an extra week or two to thaw – depending on the spring, and how much sun gets to it. But as soon as it has warmed up a bit and I can pull the bin off of it, then its ready to use. It will be dark brown in colour, and look suspiciously like ‘soil’ lol. It will have a pleasant ‘earthy’ smell. Don’t expect it to look like a bag of purchased compost, it’s not likely to be ready all at once. Some of it had most of the summer to decompose, while the last of it was added at the end of the season just before the cold weather hit. There will still be lumps in it, perhaps some egg shells, a few corn cobs, twigs etc. If you’re like me, you likely have some leftover brown material on the top. Don’t worry about that. Just put it in the bottom of your new season’s compost and build on top of it. It can show the new stuff how to do it right.

I use it right away, and I always wish I had more. This year, I’m starting out with two big cans, so I’m hoping to have lots. Use it on top of your garden beds. It’s actually better to leave it on top rather than work it in. That way, the rain will help break it down, and bring the nutrients down will it, into the soil. Use it in your vegetable garden, as mulch around your flower beds, and tomato plants, or mixed with your potting soil. Use around your fruit trees and current bushes.

GREEN MANURE or COMPOST

Comfrey is a perennial herb that has a very deep tap root which draws minerals to the surface and into its large fuzzy leaves. It grows fast and tall, and can be cut a couple of times during the growing season to make a compost activator or to use as a green mulch. Sometimes I chop it down while Dan is mowing the lawn. He mows over top of the comfrey pile, chopping the leaves into mulch, so that I can remove the mower bag and use the mulch wherever I decide I need it.

Another excellent green compost are pea vines. Pretty much do the same thing I do with comfrey. Throw them on the lawn and mow them up. Then throw them into the compost or use as mulch in the garden.

TRENCH COMPOSTING

Early in the spring I am usually ready to start composting before my compost bin from last year is ready to be emptied. I don’t want to add ‘fresh’ kitchen scraps on top of last year’s compost. Sometimes the compost isn’t even completely thawed yet. So what to do? Trench compost. I dig a hole in a part of the garden I am not going to grow root crops. Perhaps zucchini, butternut squash, lettuce, swiss chard, beans, etc.

If its a one time thing, dig a hole and bury it. Simple as that.
If you plan to use the method for a week or two, dig narrow trenches, about a foot deep and the width of your shovel. Heap the soil along side of the trench. Then, as your kitchen scraps become available, dump them into the trench, spreading dirt over each section as you fill it. When your real compost bin is ready, cover it over with 4 or more inches of dirt and pretend its not there. Plant your seeds and enjoy knowing that you have buried treasure in your garden.

I’d love to hear of your adventures with composting, your opinions, and your feedback.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle