Did you know that you can plant spinach outside while there is still snow on the ground? In my world (central Alberta), that generally means mid April. In fact, the best time to plant spinach outside was yesterday; the next best time is tomorrow. Spinach THRIVES in Edmonton’s cool spring. 1st Spring, 2nd Spring, False Spring, Spring around the corner …. You name it, in the spring, spinach is your best friend. But when the weather gets hot, it’s done. It’ll bolt (go to seed) in a heartbeat.
Did you know that 100% of the vitamin C in “fresh” spinach is gone within 4 days of harvest? I can pretty much guarantee that the spinach we buy from the produce department of our local grocery stores was not harvested within the last 96 hours. And even if it was – are we really going to use it within hours of buying it?
I confess that when I learned that sad fact, it took the appeal out of so-called “fresh” (store-bought) spinach for me. But I love fresh spinach, in fact, I’m a huge advocate of it. I just want to make sure it’s FRESH. Only one way to do that, and that is to grow it myself. So, that is what I do.
WHEN?
The secret to growing great spinach is to remember that it likes cool weather. In central Alberta, if we plant it later in May, when we plant the rest of our garden, it’s just getting going by the time the days and nights are pretty warm. This may be good for you and me, but it’s not so good for spinach. Keep it cold. That means – APRIL planting! As soon as the sun has melted the snow in your predetermined spot and the soil is workable, get out there and plant your seeds. Four to six weeks BEFORE the last frost expected, typically anytime after the beginning of April to EARLY May. It’s okay if there is snow still around, and it’s okay if it snows right on top of your seeded area, even on top of your newly sprouted spinach plants. Spinach laughs at spring snows.
When you’re feeling sorry for yourself because the days are still cooler than you’d like, remind yourself THIS IS GOOD SPINACH WEATHER. Get OUT THERE and plant some!
WHERE?
Choose and area that receives lots of bright sunlight – 6-8 hours a day. Partial afternoon shade is alright.
in WHAT?
Spinach loves a rich, well-draining soil – with plenty of regular compost enhancement. Raised beds are perfect. The last thing your spinach seeds want is to sit in a soggy spring puddle of melted snow.
If you’re in a small space with little or no soil, no worries. Even a small balcony or patio space will help. Good size containers at least 12-18 inches across and at least 6-8 inches deep can easily hold 4 or 5 spinach plants. Galvanized pails, plastic pots, terracotta planters or fabric bags will all be comfortable homes as long as their drainage is good.
HOW?
Direct sow. If you’re in the country and have a big garden, go ahead and plant in rows 10 inches apart. I am in the city, and my growing space is considerably less; typically, my rows are 6 inches apart. For spinach, however, I usually just broadcast the seed in my growing area and let them grow up in a loose spinach forest. Cover with no more than ½ inch of soil.
Keep your seeds well-watered until they germinate, which usually takes less than a week, but can take a little longer in cooler temperatures or if you’re growing certain spinach varieties. Once your seedlings develop their first true leaves, you can start thinking about thinning your plants out so each plant is spaced about 6” from its neighbour.
Spinach enjoys regular and consistent watering and will sulk if it gets too dry. Water when the top inch is dry to the touch. Best to water at the bases and keep the leaves as dry as possible. Mulching with a few inches of organic mulch can slow evaporation and reduce the need to water. *I use chopped straw, but you can also use chopped leaves. Don’t use them both at the same time – best to do one or the other.
Since I don’t grow spinach once the weather starts to get hot, it’s a relatively short season. I don’t feel the need to fertilize as I top up my growing areas with compost every spring, and the breakdown of the mulch keeps the area well nourished. Keep your spinach patch well weeded – but again, if you’re mulching, that keeps the weeds at bay. Mulch will also help prevent issues like mildew because it keeps the moisture off the leaves.
Once the spinach is ready to start thinning, make sure you’re harvesting regularly. There is no reason you cannot have fresh spinach on the table every other day until the weather gets too warm and it begins to bolt. By continuing to harvest, you’ll be paying attention to your plants, continuously checking for weeds, pests or drought. General garden care is all they need. dryness. Once they begin to bolt, read the writing on the wall and let them go. You can now plant that same area with lettuce or flowers, or even some nice herbs like basil that will appreciate the summer heat.
WHY eat spinach? And why plant it in your garden?
Why should you want to plant spinach? Because it’s good for you, that’s why. And because spinach is the segway between winter and spring. It’s the first garden vegetable you’ll be harvesting. By the time they start to complain about the warm weather, you’ve got lettuce growing and amaranth and other leafy greens fully present and doing beautifully.
Spinach is a nutrient-dense leafy green that boosts eye health, lowers blood pressure, supports heart health and aids digestion. Packed with vitamins A, C, K, folate, fibre and iron. It helps protect your immune system, reduces inflammation and strengthens bones.
As a rich source of vitamin C, spinach is wonderful served fresh in a salad. But lightly cooking (which harms the vitamin C of course), increases the availability of other nutrients like iron, calcium and vitamin A. So use it a lot, in many different ways. Pairing it with healthy fats like olive oil or avocado oil improves the absorption of nutrients.
To harvest: I begin harvesting by gently pulling baby plants that are too close together. When they get a little bigger (about 3 or 4 weeks old), I start pinching off some of the larger leaves. By the time the plants are fully mature (6 to 8 weeks) they’ll begin to form a rosette shape in the center of the plant. You can continue to pinch off the bigger leaves, including a center stalk that might sprout up (its starting to bolt). Then you can pull the whole plant out.
To use: Fruits and vegetables begin to deteriorate within the first hour of harvest – in every way, including nutrition. Nutrient content rapidly declines right after picking, so snip off as much as you plan to use. Store anything you don’t eat in the fridge, but eat it as soon as possible. Make sure you’ve shaken all moisture from rinsing it off, and pat dry. Wrap in a paper towel and place in an air tight container.
To preserve:
Freezing: If you need to pick more than you can use, you can always freeze it. Before freezing, blanch or steam for two minutes in or over a pot of boiling water. Strain immediately and plunge the hot spinach into ice water to stop the cooking. Once cool, strain again, and squeeze as much moisture out as you can. You can press the brightly coloured steamed spinach into silicone muffin pans (holds about 1 cup) or silicone ice cube trays that hold ¼ cup. Lay on the level in your freezer for at least 4 hours. Once they have frozen, you can remove them from the trays and pop them into labelled plastic bags or containers. This makes the spinach easily accessible to throw into soups, or to lightly chop and throw into stir-fried vegetables, scrambled eggs or omelettes. Freezing is my preferred way to preserve whatever excess spinach I might have.
Canned Spinach: WHY? Of all the ways to preserve spinach, this would be the least healthy. Yes its convenient, but “how can it possibly taste good?” says the person who admittedly has no recollection of ever having tasted it. My dad used to buy canned spinach when I was a young child. Must have been some fond childhood memory of his. I remember him opening the can and eating it straight outta the can with a fork. Only once was it sufficiently compelling to me that I asked for a taste. Though I cannot remember what it tasted like, I do recall being profoundly disappointed, and I recall that I didn’t ask for another. Ever. When I was a child, there was no ‘fresh’ spinach on the grocery store shelves, and no frozen spinach either. But there was canned. The only other way was to grow it yourself, but I didn’t grow up in a gardening family, and I didn’t even know one could grow food.
“I’m strong to the finich, cause I eats my spinach. I’m Popeye the Sailor Man.”
A popular cartoon when I was very young was Popeye the Sailor Man, featuring a pipe-smoking, spinach-eating, unusually physically strong sailor man who always had to fight bad guys. When he was getting beaten, all he had to do was eat a can of spinach, and instantly he was strong as an ox, and no one could beat him. As an adult, I wrongly assumed that he was created as a marketing gimmick to get kids to eat their canned spinach, but I’ve since learned that the spinach came later, as some kind of explanation for his strength. His famous quote: “I’m strong to the “finich”, ’cause I eats me spinach.” Whether it was the original intention or not, the consumption of spinach is reported to have increased by a third after Popeye started eating canned spinach on TV in the 60’s. It certainly was enticing to me as a child, and had fresh or frozen spinach been available to the average household I might have learned to like it. As it was, I was in my twenties the first time I tasted fresh spinach. In a salad. In a restaurant. I was immediately converted, and it became a favourite dish in our house for many years.
For the record, canned spinach is NOT good for you, neither commercially canned nor home canned. At 70 minutes per pint, 90 minutes per quart under 11 pounds pressure, there is not enough nutrition left in the jar (or can) to justify the salt.
Freeze Drying: Once spinach-season is over, my preferred way to serve spinach to my family is freeze dried. The brand I used to buy was Thrive Life, which was the most nutritious way of eating spinach that didn’t come straight out of one’s own organic garden. The company stopped selling to individual homes in 2025, choosing instead to sell exclusively to big businesses. Huge loss to the public. Freeze dried spinach, if processed correctly and immediately after harvest, is the most nutritious, delicious and convenient way to eat spinach all year long. Second only to FRESH out of your backyard garden – of course.
Any which way you serve it, spinach is a great addition to your garden in the coolness of early spring – aka NOW! It has earned an honoured place in my garden.
I’d love to hear your thoughts, and any tips you might have for growing spinach.
Whether we live in an urban area, a rural community or remotely, we have an environmental responsibility to each other. John Donne’s assessment, “No man is an island“1 means we are all fundamentally interconnected and cannot thrive or survive in complete isolation. We rely on the support and companionship a community provides. But in the last generation or two, our awareness of the effect we have on our natural environment, both close at hand and globally, has become greater and more realistic. Individually, as a community and as a society, we impact the quality of the world we ALL live in.
Stewardship essentially means “the job of taking care of“. It implies that we are not “the owner”, but rather, the caretaker; in effect, we are a trustee making conscious, ethical choices and commitments that will benefit far more than simply ourselves and our own families. With that in mind, specifically addressing the environment, stewardship is the responsibility of planning, managing and protecting the resources that influence the world in which we live. It addresses having a voice in the planning and management of those resources. It also means being accountable and trying hard not to be part of the problem. It means on a personal level, doing our part to be part of the solution.
When we were young parents in the 80’s, Alberta experienced a severe economic downturn. We were so busy taking care of our young children and trying to make ends meet, that we knew little about what was going on in the financial world around us. We knew that mortgage rates were higher than they’d ever been before, but we didn’t know why. We paid 10.5% on our mortgage of a little OLD house we bought in 1975. We knew we loved the small town-ness of Calmar, and the elementary school our kids attended. But we also knew Dan travelled far for employment, and was away long hours. In 1984, Dan was laid off and struggled to find steady work. He took whatever odd jobs he could, but it wasn’t enough to keep up with the house payments. Eventually, we realized that the only real path forward was for Dan to return to school, which meant moving back into the city. Like many Albertans that year, we lost our home.
We moved into subsidized housing in Edmonton and stepped into a new chapter – a temporary detour from our life plan. Dan began driving bus for Edmonton Transit while attending NAIT full time, working long, exhausting days in pursuit of something better.
It took a little attitude adjusting to get used to the higher density of our neighbours in a subsidized complex. We (mostly me), missed the small town atmosphere we had become accustomed to in the previous 5 years. But life is full of adjustments, and sometimes we have to bend a little. Though we had little means and worked hard every day, we had enough, and we were happy.
We planted flowers in our sunny front, as well as strawberries, herbs and pole beans strung to cover our southern window and shade our living room from the heat of the day. We planted vegetables in Dan’s mom’s nearby backyard garden. I came across a quote in those early months that helped me. “Let everyone sweep in front of his own door, and the whole world will be clean.” by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe 2 – an 18th century German “Influencer“. I took it to heart. I understood it to mean that I had a responsibility to make the world a better place simply by caring for and beautifying the areas I have control over – my “front door step” as it were.
Spencer W. Kimball, another INFLUENCER who influenced me greatly in those early years, was more specific. “Even those residing in apartments or condominiums can generally grow a little food in pots and planters. . . . Make your garden neat and attractive, as well as productive. ”
With this philosophy in mind, personal environmental stewardship becomes more than an idea—it becomes a responsibility. It rests with each of us to protect and conserve natural resources through the choices we make every day.
“Doing our part” isn’t just a phrase; it’s a series of small, meaningful actions—conserving water and energy, reducing waste, choosing more sustainable ways to get around, and supporting the health of our local ecosystems. Individually, these efforts may seem modest, but together, they shape the kind of world we leave behind.
What can WE do at home that will affect the environment?
Drawing on Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s philosophy, “Let everyone sweep in front of his own door…”, we are reminded that meaningful change begins with personal responsibility. The small, intentional steps we take each day may feel like minor inconveniences, but they matter.
Individually, they may seem insignificant; collectively, they have the power to create real, lasting change. How many of these action steps listed below are you already employing? Which ones can you improve on? Which ones are you willing to commit to?
Energy and Water Conservation:
Switch to energy-efficient LED light bulbs and energy-efficient appliances.
Use a clothesline in warm weather instead of a dryer.
Adjust our thermostats for heating and cooling to be more moderate. Put a sweater on, wear slippers.
Unplug electronics, computers, and chargers when not in use.
Take shorter showers and fix leaky faucets promptly.
Mulch in the garden to reduce the need for watering.
Waste Reduction and Management:
Make “Use it up, Wear it Out, Make it Do, or Do Without” your household motto. The chic new way of saying the same thing is: “Reduce, Reuse and Recycle“. Who knew thrift would ever be ‘cool’?
Reduce the things your household consumes that include excessive or single-use packaging.
Reuse shopping bags, water bottles and other materials. Compost food, garden and yard waste.
Recycle when appropriate.
Sustainable Transportation:
Walk, bike, use public transit or carpool when possible, instead of driving.
Sustainable Food Management:
Grow more of your own fruits and vegetables. If this is new to you, LEARN how, by taking classes and attending workshops in your community.
If your yard isn’t sufficient, join a community garden.
Learn how to preserve what you grow, to extend it into the cold months.
Reduce food waste by shopping in your fridge and freezer more and eating out less.
Compost kitchen scraps to use as natural soil builders and fertilizers.
Volunteer in your community garden, charitable organizations, and food bank.
Volunteer with your community league to protect natural areas, create pollinator parks, and encourage urban gardening and habitat restoration.
We all share a responsibility and an accountability to improve the places we call home. It begins right at our own front door—by caring for what we can see and influence—and then slowly extends outward.
We may find that our efforts inspire others to do the same, creating a quiet ripple of change. But even if they don’t, that isn’t the point. What matters is staying true to our own conscience, choosing each day not to be part of the problem, but part of the solution.
Stewardship plays a vital role in shaping sustainable relationships between people and nature—especially in rapidly growing urban landscapes like our own.
Reach out. Be a good neighbour. Take care of what you can see from your own front door, and then go a little further. Get involved. Volunteer. Support the good things happening around you.
Make the world a better place simply because you are in it. And above all, find joy in the doing. When you approach it with a willing heart, your attitude begins to shift. You find more reasons to smile, more moments to appreciate—and, in ways you might not expect, life becomes richer for it.
I’d love to hear your experiences and thoughts.
Cindy
“No man is an island, entire of itself. Every man is a piece of the continent, a part of the main. If a clod be washed away by the sea, Europe is the less. As well as if a promontory were. As well as if a manor of thy friend’s or if thine own were. Any man’s death diminishes me, because I am involved in mankind. And therefore, never send to know for whom the bell tolls. It tolls for thee.” John Donne ↩︎
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, a German writer and natural philosopher, was born Aug. 28, 1749. Goethe is best known for his literary works, such as The Sorrows of Young Werther (1774) and Faust (1808 and 1832). Goethe also saw himself as a Naturforscher, an investigator of nature. ↩︎
Also known as honey berries, haskaps are blue-purple berries that look similar to a blueberry or a saskatoon, except for their elongated – oblong shape. They are native to the northern boreal forests of the world. In the 1950’s Russia began cultivating them, and by the 1970’s Japan began commercially breeding the fruit. By the early 2000’s, the University of Saskatchewan in Saskatoon joined the party, and began their own research program, introducing haskaps to the prairie region.
The name Haskap comes from the Japanese name “hasukappu” which means “little present on the end of a branch”. You’ve gotta respect a name like that. It gets straight to the point. As a backyard fruit, Haskaps are gaining popularity fast in western Canada.
In Canada they are often called honey berries, but don’t let this fool you – they don’t taste like honey. When we first got them, I only knew them by that name, and expected that they must taste like honey – else why the name? Trickery! They are actually an edible member of the honeysuckle family – that’s where “honey berry” comes from, and if you’ve ever tasted a honeysuckle berry, you’ll identify slight hints of that taste. Warning: most honeysuckles have poisonous berries, so don’t get any bright ideas about eating THEM.
The names have become interchangeable. Don’t be confused: HONEY BERRIES and HASKAPS are both referring to the SAME berry.
berries in June, against the east wall. Some of these berries are fully ripe, some are still green.
In about the year 2010, we planted our first six haskap bushes. I should clarify that it was Dan who brought them home after reading some very compelling information. I hadn’t read the same reports, so I wasn’t much interested at the time. He planted them in one of our raised beds because we didn’t have anything else prepared, and they stayed there for a couple of years—until I banished them from my limited vegetable-growing space.
By then they had doubled in size and were attractive plants, but they still hadn’t produced any berries.
The only spot we had available was beside the house on the east side. It was an area that didn’t get much attention—pretty dry and rarely watered. It received the morning sun, but not much past noon. All in all, it was one of the most inhospitable spots in our yard.
However, a couple of years after transplanting them, we noticed dark blue, oblong berries growing on the bushes. The taste was quite tart, but not unpleasant. Unfortunately, the birds noticed them too.
That was the beginning of our love affair.
I am not very patient with plants that are persnickety. I don’t have the time or inclination to fuss over those that don’t want to grow here—those that sulk and pout if they don’t get enough to drink once in a while, or complain about the cold (sissies).
The way to my heart is through strength of character. And after four years of intermittent care in a less-than-desirable location, our haskaps showed their true colours. They appreciated their new home. They had adapted to their surroundings, like true native plants. They didn’t mind the winters, had no apparent health or insect problems, and required no pruning or special care. In short, they proved themselves stronger than whatever opposing forces might threaten them.
They wanted to stay. They loved me, and they wanted to be of service. They found my soft spot. If a food producing plant wants ‘that much’ to be my friend, and if the food they offer is nutritious – I’m all in. You could say I converted to haskap-ism.
The modern name “haskap” translates to “berry of long life and good vision”, also a great name that gets right to the point.
Gramma Great picking haskap berries the beginning of June.
While haskaps have grown wild since time immemorial, they only started being scientifically bred and cultivated in the 1950’s – (appropriately) in Siberia. Since then, Japan and Canada joined the party, and many commercial varieties popular today were developed right here in our own backyard, at the University of Saskatchewan in Saskatoon – improving size and taste. “U of Sask” is renowned for global leadership in water security and agricultural sciences. Go Riders!
Why we should grow Haskaps
Haskaps are tremendously hardy, and ideal for cold-climate farming. They are hardy to Zone 2. Edmonton’s climate zone is 4a.
They are a ‘bush’, and require two or more plants for pollination.
They have early harvest times (starting in June), and you can plant different types to extend the harvest season.
They are considered a true SUPER FOOD, being extremely high in antioxidants. They are an excellent source of Vitamins A and C, fiber and potassium. See below for more nutritional information.
They have a unique oblong shape with a dark blue skin (like blueberries) and a deep crimson interior.
They have a tangy, complex flavour that is hard to describe. I’ve heard it described as a combination of blueberry, raspberry and black currant – I can’t explain it better than that, but I might add the word “pungent”.
They are not demanding, need little pruning, and can live up to 50 years. Well suited to an urban garden.
They are perfect for eating out of hand, baking with, making jams, syrups and sauces, and for juicing.
Nutrition:
This is where Haskaps rock. They are richer in antioxidants than blueberries — four times more than cultivated blueberries — and contain more vitamin C than many citrus fruits.
You may be familiar with the natural pigments called anthocyanins, which create the gorgeous bright red, purple, and blue colours in fruits, vegetables, and flowers. It won’t surprise you then, to learn that haskaps are especially rich in them. In plants, anthocyanins help provide protection from environmental stressors such as extreme weather and insect attack. Anthocyanins also provide health benefits to the humans eating haskaps – like reduced inflammation and cardiovascular protection.
They are the ultimate superfood, and we don’t have to import them from some tropical climate. They grow right here, in your own backyard!
life story of a haskap muffin
Eye Health
Haskaps have a higher anthocyanin content, than many other berries, specifically cyanidin-3-O-glucoside (C3G). These compounds act as potent antioxidants that help protect eyes from oxidative damage. Anthocyanins are associated with enhanced night vision and improved circulation within the retinal capillaries. Regular consumption is believed to help fight against age-related macular degeneration and to prevent retinopathy in diabetic patients.
In short, Haskaps are doing everything in their power to earn a place in your yard and on your table.
the boys picking berries
* I am told that haskaps require two different varieties that bloom at the same time for pollination. I am not convinced that we have two or more different varieties among our six bushes. I’m pretty sure we didn’t know that when we bought them all those years ago. It seems information has evolved since then. We will buy a couple more plants this spring, and I will do my best to be certain they are different ‘enough’, while blooming at the same time. Even though our berries are growing fine, I am anxious to benefit even more with this new information.
Growing is an ongoing journey. I’ll share my progress here so stay tuned, but in the meantime, I’d love to hear your experience with growing or using Haskaps.
As a gardener I swore off growing cabbage over three decades before now. I had tried every organic way I read or hear about to control the infamous cabbage worms – with no success. Finding creepy worms in the cabbage we wanted to make into sauerkraut took the joy out of an entire season of growing. I’ll admit I’m squeamish, I don’t like worms – even the good kind. I don’t like bugs other than lady bugs and bees (and those only from a distance). I can’t handle slugs and snails. The list goes on. So why do I garden? Yeah, that’s sometimes a mystery even to me.
But we loved cabbage, and I kept thinking I was missing something critical. I continued searching for solutions and trying every organic trick I heard of – full of promises but never delivering. Finally one day, I gave up. I had given it my best shot, but decided it couldn’t be done without chemicals I had chosen not to use in our garden. “No more cruciferous vegetables in our garden!” It was a liberating feeling, free from disappointment, and I stuck to my guns for years. Until now … …
Thirty years later, my new friend Kim Ross convinced me to try again – using her hoop and netting system – organically. No bugs, no cabbage worms, no chemicals, . . . . hmmm. I thought I’d heard it all, but I hadn’t tried THIS. I had trusted her in the past – she steered me right in the No-Til approach to gardening. If I was ever going to believe anyone about cabbage – it was going to be her, because she had repeated success with it.
left: view from outside the netting, right side: view from the inside – images from Kim Ross’s garden
In 2025, I started cabbage plants by seed in March, and ordered some netting from her. Dan and I set out the plants and immediately covered them with the netting. The sun and rain came through the netting as promised, not a single fly or moth could find an opening. The cabbage grew big and beautiful. I was SOLD! I even had a couple broccoli plants in there. Equally beautiful. 100% pest free.
A whole new world opened up to me.
About five years before, I had made an exception to my rule for kale. I kept them separated, in different quadrants of the garden, prepared to dispose of any that became infested with some nameless pest. I didn’t care what the bug was – the plant would go into the garbage can in the alley the very minute I discovered the problem. My thinking was that by doing that, I’d protect any other kale plant from suffering the same fate. It worked for me the trial year, so I did it again. Kale are now a standard in my garden. I grow a few interspersed throughout the vegetable and flower gardens, always ready to sacrifice one or two as needed.
Tatsoi
Okay I confess, I was weakening – soon, I also allowed some Asian greens to join my party: Tatsoi and Bokchoi. And we were getting along just fine, but I drew the line at cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower. Those ugly worm memories were too strong to get rid of.
I had observed other gardeners use various ‘hacks’, including covering cabbages, and I watched with interest as the seasons progressed, but too often the end was disappointing, and I felt vindicated. Until Kim Ross bragged about her specific netting that is. I finally caved. Thankfully. And now I am the proud ‘grower of cabbage’.
This is good news for me, because cruciferous vegetables are low in calories and rich in vitamins and fiber. They’re delicious and nutritious. Cabbage is known for its dense heads that come in green, red or white, (I’ve only ever grown green), and is used fresh in salads and cooked dishes like cabbage rolls. In our house its often the base of stir fried vegetables as well as vegetable soup. And it is what makes sauerkraut – SAUERKRAUT. I simply wouldn’t want to do without cabbage.
Cabbage is a cold weather vegetable – so it can be planted earlier than most others. In our area, you can usually plant them mid April – getting a full month jump on most other vegetables. I’m not going to tell you about its usual enemies – because its a subject I care nothing about. I will forever more plant my cabbages in rows under the protective netting Kim Ross advocates, and because of that, I expect to never again meet cabbage moths, flies or caterpillars in any of my cruciferous plants. I am content to be the ridiculous, finicky, easily disgusted, “city person” that you can make fun of behind my back. In my mind that’s far more preferable to worms.
Planting and Soil
WHAT Try different types of cabbage seeds till you find your favourite. I don’t have a favourite yet. I liked what I grew last year, but I’m still gonna try others since I’m such a novice.
WHERE Selecting the best spot: Cabbage prefers well-drained, loamy soil, rich in compost or aged manure. And it need SUN. Full sun implies a minimum of 6-8 hours daily. You can’t fake the sun so this is very important. Choose a nice sunny spot. I am told that in southern climes you can plant cabbages in more shady areas to protect them from hot unyielding sun (remember they’re a cold weather crop), but I don’t live in a southern climate and where I live, full unfiltered sun is still important for cabbages to grow.
WHEN Start seeds indoors in late winter (February or March), for spring planting outdoors, or simply buy your plants from a garden center. No judging here. As soon as the days start warming up enough that the ground has thawed and dried enough to work in, set your plants out.
Don’t hesitate to plant a few different varieties of cabbage – paying attention to the length of time each is expected to take. This could help you harvest consecutively for several weeks. Some will have a suggested growing at 80 days. Some more, some less.
HOW I practise no-til gardening with a very deep layer of straw as mulch. Deep as in 6-8 inches of straw or more. Because mine is an urban garden, space is always an issue so we mow our straw to break it up a little. There are mixed reviews on this practise, some prefer to leave the long stalks, personally I find them more manageable in my smaller garden if we’ve lightly chopped them up with the lawn mower. My entire row is covered with straw – LOTS of it. In my paths I have a deep layer of wood chips, also for mulch but this mulch takes longer to break down than the straw, perfect for the pathways.
The straw and wood chip mulches (not mixed) allow the rain to go through, while reducing evaporation. This makes best use of our water.
It also prevents the sun from getting through to the ground which eliminates many of the weed seeds from being able to sprout and thrive.
The straw also begins decomposing where it touches the soil, and over the course of the season – that composting of the bottom layer will add to the richness of the soil.
Mark your row and decide exactly where you want each plant. (If you’ve got more seedlings than you can use, give some away.) Space out your stakes for the hoops, in even spaces from each other. Hammer them into the ground to keep them solid.
Allow plenty of room for all the outer cabbage leaves that accompany the actual cabbage – a minimum of 12 inches on either side of the cabbage itself, more depending on the type you’re growing. Pay attention to the recommended space written on the seed package. These outer leaves take up a lotta room but they’re important. They’re busy all season gathering sun, rain and nutrients for your plants.
netted row of cruciferous vegetables in our community garden 2025 2nd picture is my friend Sandi hold up three magnificent from her community garden plot. No bugs,
to PLANT Gently move the straw over and add plenty of nice, rich compost to the row. Set the small cabbage plants into the prepared ground and water well. Gently firm all the soil around the plant with your hands, and give them a nice thirst quenching drink of water.
Cabbages are heavy feeders, so make sure you add a generous amount of compost to the area reaching out at least a foot around the sealing.
When all done planting, tuck the straw around the plants, being careful NOT to allow the straw to touch them – you want air and a little space between the plant and the straw. Once the plants get strong and happy in their new neighbourhood, you can tuck the straw in closer.
Putting the netting on Attach the rubber hose / hoops to one stake and then pull the hose to the stake directly across from it. Once all stakes with hoops are attached, take your netting and gently pull it across all stakes, going down your entire row. Be sure to leave enough fabric to fasten down both ends, as well as fasten down the sides to give it a nice snug fit – like putting a bottom sheet on your bed.
That’s it. It really is that easy. You’re good to go.
WATER The straw mulch will restrict the need of LOTS of water being required all season long. Water generously in the beginning few weeks to help get roots established. Then water as needed throughout the rest of the season.
*Hint: whether water or rain, it will go through the netting just fine and will go through the straw mulch. As the season goes on, reduce the amount of watering you’re giving each plant. Once the cabbage head starts to form, too much moisture may cause the head to split. This doesn’t affect the taste or nutrition but it can look quite unsightly, and will affect the long term shelf life, as well as preventing you from using this particular cabbage from being cabbage rolls.
The big outer leaves gather the rain from which the plant drinks. In most cases, the rain will be sufficient IF you have a deep enough protective straw layer around your vegetables. You should rarely have to water your garden if using enough straw.
I hope you’ll give cabbage an honest try in your garden if you haven’t already, or haven’t for a long time. Prepare to be pleased.
*hint: if you EVER hear of Kim Ross speaking in your part of the world – attend. You’ll thank yourself many times over for having done so.
Beets quietly sit on the grocer’s shelf, a little shy, nothing really spectacular to look at. You may even walk right by without noticing them; admittedly they’re a little on the plain side, down to earth. You might have to look specifically for them as they’ll never jump out at you – they’re just not ‘that way’. In fact, I don’t believe I’ve ever seen a big splashy display of beets at a grocery store. But if you did walk right by them, you’d be missing one of the nature’s most nutritious vegetables, one that deserves a special place on your plate.
A recent survey listed beets in the top two LEAST liked vegetables in North America, second only to turnips. That seems a little harsh to me. 26% of those surveyed said they disliked beets; even brussels sprouts scored higher.
Why do people dislike beets? Here are the top reasons given:
Lack of exposure or delayed introduction The first reason may simply be “lack of exposure”. Since beets are seldom on the menu at home, we’re not accustomed to them. Often times a lack of exposure to beets, especially in childhood, can lead to a long term suspicion of “different” and prevent some from trying them. Sometimes, a single negative experience can create a lasting aversion.
Many food preferences are established from continued exposure. In fact, statistics say that a ‘new’ food may have to be tried up to 30 times before one develops a taste for it.
Colour Admittedly, the colour of beets is highly unusual. Because it’s different, some may shy away from them, preferring the plain and usual colours of vegetables: green or orange. Truth is, we eat first with our eyes; to some, the vibrant colour is appealing, while to others it’s the opposite – too weird. An aversion to the colour may cause people to hesitate trying it.
The texture Some people dislike the texture of beets, especially when canned.
Taste Some people say that the taste of beets resembles ‘dirt’. I’ve thought of this as I eat them from time to time, and I suppose I can see their point – but I personally, like that earthy flavour.
Preparation time Okay, I admit it – beets take a little more time, a little more fuss, and a little more mess than simply peeling carrots. You have to be ‘invested’ in the idea of wanting to eat beets if you’re going to go to that much trouble to prepare them.
So, why we should TRY to like them?
Beets are a root vegetable known for their vibrant colour and earthy-sweet flavour. They are versatile and nutrient-dense, both the root and the green, leafy tops are eaten. They are considered a SUPERFOOD due to their rich nutritional profile.
Beets are high in natural nitrates, which the body converts to nitric oxide. This compound helps relax and widen blood vessels, which can significantly lower blood pressure. These nitrates can also improve blood flow and oxygen delivery, potentially enhancing stamina and exercise performance.
Beets are an excellent source of fiber, supporting digestive health and contributing to a feeling of fullness, which can aid in weight management. They contain unique plant compounds called betalains, which are powerful antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents that protect cells from damage. And they are an excellent source of potassium, manganese, iron, folate (vitamin B9), vitamins A, C, K and E, as well as vitamin B6. The deep red colour is indicative of the high amount of antioxidants.
These are very compelling facts for me; high nutrition is always the key factor in encouraging me to want to include any food in my family’s diet.
So how best to introduce beets to your family? and to yourself if necessary?
Start early
Early experiences with nutritious foods and flavours will maximize the likelihood that children will choose them as they grow. The key is variety: variety of healthy vegetables, but also a variety of ways to serve them. A healthier life long diet is more likely if children are continually exposed to different fruits and vegetables and different ways of eating them.
I grew up on pickled beets, but I never much cared for them. They were on the table at Christmas time, and I dutifully took one as the plate was passed around, but I was always disappointed. My first exposure to beets served as a vegetable was at my Aunt Jolayne’s table when I was 11 years old. “What is this?” I asked my cousins. I loved them.
Interestingly, my mother grew up eating beets, with two rows in the garden being dedicated to them. But she rarely if ever put them on the table in my younger years. Why? In those days we lived on a military base in northern Alberta with a small grocery store, carrying limited items – especially produce. Fresh beets were most often not available to us. I suppose canned beets may have been, but if so, we never had any. Though both my parents grew up in large families, with large gardens, we never had one. In my teen years, my mother served beets from time to time. I have to assume that availability improved in the grocery store. (?)
Association
When foods are associated with good memories they are more likely to be appealing as time goes on. Even if the taste or texture was initially unappealing, taste preferences mature, so continued exposure is important.
* case in point: I grew up with canned cranberry sauce on my plate twice a year: Thanksgiving and Christmas. I tried it every year, but never liked it. I did however, have good memories of those special dinners. Uncharacteristically, Dan came into our marriage liking cranberry sauce, so I endeavoured to include homemade cranberry sauce in our traditional meals for his sake. As time went by, I developed a taste for it, and all my kids were raised on homemade cranberry sauce – more than twice a year. Owing to repeated exposure and it being associated with good memories of favourite meals, they all enjoy it, as do their own kids.
Beets can be prepared in many ways.
Boiled: When my mom did cook them, she boiled them unpeeled and then slipped the skins off in the sink, before cutting and serving. That is how I prepared them for most of my adult life. They were messy as heck, but worth it.
Roasted: When I discovered that I could roast beets unpeeled in a dutch oven, and then slip the peel off the way I always had, it became my preferred way. Less mess. But then I discovered taking that to the next level: peel, cut into wedges and roast in the oven with a little olive oil drizzled over top, and salt and pepper. Roast in a 350F oven for almost an hour (depending how big your pieces are), till fork tender.
Pickled: Many of us grew up with pickled beets on the Sunday table, and many of my friends really enjoy them. For me they’ve always be ‘okay’, but not tempting enough to walk across the street for. I’m pretty sure I’ve pickled a few batches in my early years, but there was never a compelling enough reason to do it regularly. So sorry, I’ve got nothing to offer in this area.
roasted beet salad with feta and toasted walnuts, served with balsamic vinegar and olive oil
Salads: When cooking beets, cook extra so you can have leftovers in the fridge. They’re great to eat cold or add to salads. A nice green salad topped with beets, feta cheese and toasted walnuts. Shred raw or cooked beets into your favourite coleslaw. Or just beets by themselves, served cold or at room temperature. Drizzle a light vinaigrette over top with a sprinkling of parsley.
Freezing: Once cooked, beets can be frozen. SO HANDY! Put into a ziplock freezer bag – dated and labeled. So handy! Simply thaw and add to your meal or favourite beet recipes. I’ve heard that you can freeze them raw, but I’ve never tried it. It doesn’t make sense to me.
You can puree your beets in the blender and then freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen, pop them out of the trays and store in zip lock freezer bags, labeled and dated. Use them smoothies later, or in borscht.
Baking: Just like carrots, beets can be shredded and added to cakes, muffins, cookies – in fact use your carrot cake recipe with beets. I cook them first and then shred, as its much easier and less messy than shredding raw. Makes borscht available all year long.
Borscht: A whole subject of its own. Borscht is Beet Soup. That means its red. I’ve heard of green borscht but that is an abomination; it doesn’t deserved to be called “borscht”. It’s simply vegetable soup. The best borscht is probably made by your gramma, but if you’d like a recipe, try mine in this link1
Borscht is a necessary part of autumn in my house. It looks like, smells like and tastes like “autumn” to me. I look forward to it all year long.
Juicing: When you’re making carrot juice, add a couple of beets. Delicious! You can even freeze your beet juice.
Smoothies: If you don’t have a centrifugal juicer, throw a few beets into your blender with your morning smoothie.
Beet Greens: Don’t throw away the greens! They are rich in vitamins A, C, K and can be steamed like spinach or sauteed, or added to stir fried vegetables or soup, or used alone or in combination with other greens in Spanakopita.
Yellow Beets: I had never heard of yellow beets till my gardening friend Myrna introduced them to me. They are milder in flavour and easier to prepare without that red juice that gets everywhere and stains whatever it touches. I’ve roasted them without peeling, and they never disappoint.
Sometimes called Golden beets, they’re sweeter and have a less earthy flavour than their red cousins. That might make them more appealing to those who don’t care for red beets. They don’t stain, making them easier to prepare and use in dishes where you don’t want the colour transfer. Nutritionally, both types are very good for you. Red obviously contains more antioxidants, but yellow beets having more Vitamin A.
Yellow beets have a beautiful bright yellow colour when cooked. They can be eaten raw, roasted or boiled like the red ones.
Where do beets come from? The people of the ancient Mediterranean coastal areas began cultivating what was known as a sea beet for its leafy greens around 2000 BC. Around 200 AD the Romans began hybridizing them to focus on the large roots. These Roman-era beets came in both the red and white varieties, with the red ones being more popular. From there they were carried throughout Europe where they thrived in the cooler temperatures, gaining particular popularity in the northern Slavic countries and Scandinavia. To those countries they were a nutritional godsend, offering more vegetable variety to countries with short growing seasons. They made their way to North America with settlement of Europeans.
Growing Beets in central Alberta
Who? Anyone with a sunny patch of ground can grow beets. They are very forgiving.
What? There are many varieties of beets that do well in home gardens in our area, the most popular one being DETROIT DARK RED, an all-purpose heirloom variety with a sweet, deep red flesh. Matures in 50-80 days.
Where? Beets are considered a cool weather crop, and like carrots, they prefer a rich, loose and well drained soil. They want SUN, so give them space in a nice sunny spot. Just because a vegetable does well in cool weather does not mean it does well in a shady area. Not the same thing. Plant beet seeds about one inch apart and one inch deep in rows 10 inches apart near the end of April. If you are planting beets later than mid May, beet seeds can be soaked for 24 hours for faster germination.
When? Beets are a cool weather crop so they can be planted early in May or even late April if the spring is warm (in central Alberta).
Seeds germinate 5-15 days after seeding. The first half of the beet’s growing cycle consists of the leaves shooting up. The leaves help provide the necessary nutrients for the root to grow. In general, beets are a pretty low maintenance crop, but throughout the growing season weeding is important to ensure they get all the available nutrients.
They can be / and should be harvested almost the entire growing season, beginning with the young leaves. As they grow bigger, you can continue to harvest by thinning the row out, opening up space for the remaining beets to grow bigger. Beets are most tender when they are young, and can be harvested once they are 2.5 inches across. To check how large your beets are, gently remove the surface of the soil from around them. Beets can be left in the ground until late fall, handling frost and cold weather below 0 Celcius.
Why? Beets are naturally sustainable. They don’t require a lot of water, grow quickly, are super nutritious, and can be harvested for many weeks. They are perfectly suited to our climate, and soil type.
and How? Seeds should be 1/2 an inch deep. They should be rotated annually, ideally coming after nitrogen fixing crops like beans or peas.
Once the leaves are set, they gather nutrients that focus on the taproot. That is when they need to be thinned out. Pulling the leaves to eat at the beginning of summer, allows more room for the root to grow in size during the second half of the growing season. As you continue to thin, your goal is to have at least a 3-finger-span between each plant. Eating the greens, and then the tiny beets is the best of both worlds – harvesting from the beginning of July through the end of September.
Beets should be dry and soil-free before storage. Remove their tops and only store the healthiest ones. They should be stored in the fridge in loose plastic bags (high humidity) to prevent drying, evaporation, and wilting. Beets will keep up to 6 months under these storage conditions.
If you have a patch of sunny ground, I hope you’ll grow beets next gardening season. Reach out to a gardening community near you. It’s fun learning from each other and sharing successes and recipes. I’d love to hear your experiences, some favourite varieties and favourite ways of putting them on the table.
– recipe made with Carrot Pulp from juicing carrots – This recipe makes 18 muffins, but plan to double it so you can share with neighbours.
in these muffins I added some dehydrated blueberries for ‘raisins’
Preheat oven to 350F. Sift together dry ingredients and set aside: 2 cups whole wheat flour OR half unbleached flour 1 cup sugar 1 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp baking soda 1 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp salt
beat3 eggs, add 1 cup milk and 1/2 cup oil (your choice) set aside * 1 cup raisins or chopped walnuts or combination (optional)
add to flour mixture: 2 cups grated carrots OR carrot pulp OR refreshed dehydrated carrots gently fold carrots into flour mixture till evenly coated If you’re adding raisins or nuts, right now would be a good time. Fold in. * I generally add at least another cup of carrot pulp. If I add two additional cups, I add another egg and another tablespoon of oil as well.
Pour wet ingredients into flour-carrot mixture and gently fold in to moisten completely. If the batter is too stiff and you feel the need to add a little more milk, go ahead. Don’t over stir.
Line muffin tins with paper liners – makes approximately 18 muffins. *tip: I lightly coat the muffin tin with oil and use the liners as well, as it makes it easier to peel off the liners later.
Bake 20-22 minutes at 350F. Test by gently touching the top of the muffin – when it bounces back to your finger, its done. I let the muffins sit on the top of the stove for about 5 minutes to cool slightly before removing them to place onto rack to finish cooling.
Here’s to APPLES! In all their glory. Red, yellow, green and everything in between. Sweet, tart, big, small. Here’s to apples one and all.
People have long understood that apples were “good for you” even before nutrition was understood. We’ve all heard the aphorism “an apple a day keeps the doctor away“. It appeared in print in America in 1913, one of the first public appeals targeting parents especially, correlating good health with eating ‘nutritiously’.
It likely originated from a similar proverb that first appeared in a Welsh publication in 1866. Though a different rhyming format, the message is the same: “Eat an apple on going to bed and you’ll keep the doctor from earning his bread.”
Apples are probably the most well known fruit in the world. They are nutritious and delicious and grown in most parts of the world – especially the northern hemisphere. They originated in Central Asia – east of the Caspian Sea, and by the 1500’s apple seeds had made it to Europe. When Europeans began transoceanic travel, apples were carried to the Americas and dispersed throughout the world.
Currently, there are literally thousands of different kinds of apples – in every variety, colour and flavour; they’re eaten fresh, cooked into savoury dishes, made into desserts and drank as juices, ciders, wines and teas, and are even a popular vinegar. They are free of fat, cholesterol and sodium, a great source of dietary fibre and vitamins, and help lower blood sugar levels, benefitting heart health. Much of the apple’s fiber is found in its peel, so don’t peel your apples unless you have to.
I discovered a few years back that in most cases the apples on our supermarket shelves can be up to a year old. Whaaaaat!!! Sometimes well over a year old. In fact, the apples you’re buying this week are likely from the previous years’ harvest, having been kept in cold storage since last season – allowing us to have “fresh” apples year round. At the is risk of being too critical, there really is no other way if we want to eat apples all year long. Where did we think they came from anyway?
We know that apples in North America generally ripen between August and October. When we buy an apple in May, we’ve gotta know that the earliest it could have been picked was last fall. But to keep the steady supply that we’re used to, it was likely picked even before then.
Its a sign of our times that we want to have everything ALL the time. Well, there’s a cost to the sense of entitlement we’ve gotten used to.
If you want REALLY “Fresh” apples, plant an apple tree. If that’s not possible, get to know you’re neighbours – there are lots of backyard gardeners looking for people to share their apples. A few years before our own apple tree began producing, we had asked a neighbour down the alley if we could have some of theirs. At the time, they were putting them all to good use, but the time came that their health became an issue and they could no longer keep up. We connected, and we’re happy to pick the apples, leaving them a box for eating, and cleaning up the dead fall that attracts wasps. We can help each other out. If you don’t have such a neighbour, ask when you’re out on a walk and see an apple tree in need of attention. Or ask on Facebook if someone knows of someone who’d like their apples picked in return for sharing them. Or shop at Farmer’s Markets.
In central Alberta, some apples start ripening in August, and some don’t ripen till after Thanksgiving – with everything in between, so the harvests of homegrown apples are endless. Some apples are great for eating fresh, some are good baking apples, and still some are only good for making juice, but every edible apple has an important role to play in the gardener’s kitchen.
* Did you know?
Apples are actually BERRIES. Botanically, a berry is a fleshy fruit that develops from a single flower and contains two or more seeds. They are characterized by a soft, fleshy pulp and thin, outer skin – so with this definition, berries include bananas, grapes, tomatoes, pumpkins and watermelons. And interestingly, raspberries, black berries, strawberries and cherries – are not berries.
What to do with all those apples that are ready now, and needing to be taken care of?
Well for starters – Apple sauce . . . . . here are a whole lotta ideas of what you can do with fresh apples when they’re at their BEST.
Apple sauce is generally a purée made of apples. It can be made with peeled or unpeeled apples and can be spiced or sweetened. It is inexpensive and is widely popular in North America and some parts of Europe. Personally, I am not a fan of long cooked apple sauce that is pressed through a screen. I like the texture of apple pieces so I much prefer ‘fresh’ apple sauce, made on the spot with fresh apples softened over medium heat for less than 20 minutes. I am not opposed to canning it as a preservation method, but I want to see apple pieces.
Apple butter is a thick, smooth fruit spread made by slow cooking apples with sugar and spices till the apples caramelize, resulting in a concentrated, deeply flavoured preserve. Essentially it’s apple sauce taken to a whole new level. The name refers to its rich spreadable consistency – butter like, not because there’s any butter in it. It can be spread on toast like jam, used as a topping for pancakes, waffles and crepes – used as extra flavour when making muffins or cakes, or even served as a type of chutney with pork roast.
Your crock pot is the perfect way to make it; long a low is the key. Start with apples, add a little apple juice if desired, and sweeten to taste with brown sugar. We’re talking HOURS here, so adjust your thinking – expect it to take about 10 hours. Stir every once in a while to check consistency. Add the warming spices of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. My general rule of thumb is to use 1 part cinnamon : 1/2 part nutmeg : 1/4 part cloves. For instance: 1 tsp cinnamon, 1/2 tsp nutmeg, 1/4 tsp cloves. *hint: cloves are pretty strong so if you’re not used to them, start with less and go from there. That’s why many recipes call for a ‘pinch’ of cloves. If I was starting with a LOT of apples, I’d start with 1 Tbsp cinnamon, 1 + 1/2 tsp nutmeg and 3/4 tsp cloves. Remember, a little cloves goes a long ways and you cannot take it out if you change your mind, so best to start with less if you’re not accustomed to the strong taste, and adjust later as you decide. You’ll have to do your own taste testing and adjusting since only you know the quantity of apples you’re cooking down. You’re the boss.
You’ll enjoy the aroma in the house as much as you’ll enjoy the finished product. As the liquid evaporates, you can decide when enough is enough. You can take the extra step of pureeing it in the blender for an extra smooth texture, or not. You’re in charge. If you choose to puree it, you might want to continue to cook it down a little longer afterward. You’re looking for a glossy dark spreadable consistency.
*hint: if you’re planning to puree in the blender at the end, no need to peel the apples. Just remove the stem, core and any damage spots that offend you.
Make a little or make a lot. Store a jar in the fridge for several weeks, or can it in small jars for extended shelf life or to give as gifts. Apple butter is a strong spread, so use small jars: 1/2 pints (250 ml). 10 minutes in a hot water bath is sufficient. That’s 10 minutes AFTER the hot water bath returns to a rolling boil remember. Click HERE for instruction on hot water bath canning.
Apple pie is the quintessential North American dessert. It is symbolic as a representation of ‘home’ – “as American as apple pie” is an appropriate saying. Not surprisingly, it originated in the 14th century in England, immigrating to North America when the English did. It is generally double crusted (pastry both above and below), and the upper crust may be solid or latticed. The ingredients are pretty basic: apples, sugar and cinnamon, but there are a hundred variations. The best apple pie is always the way your gramma used to make it, whatever that means to you.
In our house, we serve it with vanilla ice cream. Dan likes to eat it with a slice of sharp cheddar cheese melted on top, or better yet, a thin layer of sharp cheddar underneath the top crust. He also likes to cook one or two in the fall – in the smoker. For the smoked apple pie, we’ll often opt for a streusel toppling instead of a top crust.
Apple Crisp is apple pie the easier way – when you want a quick, but wonderful dessert. It’s pretty basic, hard to mess up, and like apple pie, the best apple crisp is what your gramma used to make. It’s the perfect dessert to make when you have a lotta apples on hand.
Filling: 6-10 nice sized fresh apples, peeled and chopped coarsely 2 Tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp lemon juice Topping: 1/2 cup cold butter diced into small cubes 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup old fashioned oats 3/4 cup unbleached flour 1 tsp cinnamon Directions: Preheat oven to 350 F and grease an 8×8 baking dish 1. In the prepared baking dish, add apples, sugar, cinnamon and lemon juice. Stir to combine. 2. In mixing bowl, stir together topping ingredients except the butter. When all is thoroughly mixed add the butter and using a pastry cutter or two forks, or your hands, cut the butter into dry ingredients. When the butter is consistently about the size of peas, you’re done. Spread evenly on top of the apples, and gently pat it down. *hint: in our house, we make about 4 x this amount and refrigerate the remainder in a wide mouth jar. Dan likes to use it during the week – for a lotta things. 3. Bake about 45 minutes till golden brown and bubbly. Remove from the oven and cool slightly. Plan to serve warm with vanilla ice cream.
Apple Crisp, Pear Crisp, Plum Crisp, Raspberry / Blueberry or Blackberry Crisp / Peach Crisp / Apricot Crisp / Rhubarb Crisp . . . . . you name the fruit – and you can probably make a great Crisp out of it.
Fruit CRISP / Fruit CRUMBLE / Fruit COBBLER – what are they? and what is the difference?
Crisp and Crumble are pretty much the same thing – except for the OATS. Crisp has oats in the streusel topping, Crumble does not. Every thing else is the same. Fruit Cobbler is similar, but the topping is a batter, like a sweet, richer biscuit dough. It is spooned over top the fruit mixture and it can be loose, allowing the fruit to bubble through, or it can be a complete cover. All are delicious and interchangeable depending on personal preference. Dan prefers Crisp, but sometimes its too much sugar for me, and I prefer a cobbler.
Apple pie cake So many different recipes for using apples in cake. I first tasted this cake pictured at a funeral in the fall. The woman who made it kindly passed the recipe on to me, and its become a favourite in our house. She called it apple pie cake because there’s a bottom and top layer with filling in the middle. Its a good name.
1 Tbsp cinnamon 1/3 cup brown sugar + 1/3 cup brown sugar 1/3 cup white sugar 1/2 cup butter softened 2 eggs 1 tsp vanilla 2 cups unbleached flour (can substitute half for whole wheat flour) 1 Tbsp baking powder 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 cup milk 2 large apples peeled and diced (or some dried apples cut with scissors) 1 Tbsp melted butter Directions: preheat oven to 350 F. Prepare a loaf pan by greasing or flouring or use parchment paper. 1. Combine cinnamon and 1/3 cup brown sugar and set aside 2. Using mixer, cream butter with remaining brown sugar and white sugar. Add eggs and vanilla and mix till smooth. 3. Sift flour, salt and baking powder together. Add to egg mixture alternately with milk, mixing with a spoon only till all is moistened. Batter will be quite stiff. 4. Spoon half the batter into the greased and floured loaf pan and spread it evenly. 5. Spread half the chopped apples over top the bottom layer of batter, then sprinkle half the cinnamon brown sugar mixture over top the apples. 6. Stir remaining apples gently into remaining batter. 7. Spoon apple batter over top the apple layer in the loaf pan. till completely covered. Sprinkle remaining cinnamon sugar mixture over top. 8. Bake 40 minutes, then drizzle melted butter over the top, and continue baking another 10 minutes or so. Test by pressing centre of cake with your finger. When it bounces back, insert a toothpick to see if it comes out clean. 11. Remove from oven and let cool in the pan 15 minutes. Gently loosen edges with spatula and then gently slide out.
Apple Muffins a recipe taken from my well used and well loved recipe book FLAVORS OF HOME by my friend Patti Shenfield (a few slight adaptations to my preference) 4 cups peeled and diced apples 1 cup sugar 2 eggs lightly beaten 1/2 cup butter melted 2 tsp vanilla 2 cup unbleached flour (or substitute half for whole wheat flour) 2 tsp baking soda 2 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp salt optional: 1 cup walnut pieces Directions: preheat oven to 350 F 1. In large mixing bowl stir together apples and sugar 2. In another bowl stir together eggs, melted butter and vanilla. Pour into apple-sugar mixture and combine . 3. In another bowl, sift together dry ingredients. Add to apple-egg mixture and stir gently till moistened. Stir in nuts if using. Spoon batter into 18 greased muffin tins. Top with the following streusel topping if desired. Bake 15-20 minutes till bounces back from touch and toothpick comes out clean. Streusel Topping: Combine 1/3 cup brown sugar, 1/3 cup chopped nuts, 3/4 tsp cinnamon Sprinkle over top each muffin before baking.
Apples in Salads 1. Toss diced apples with mixed greens, toasted walnuts, dried cranberries, and a simple vinaigrette for a crisp and refreshing salad that’s perfect for any day.
2. A Waldorf salad is a fruit and nut salad generally made of celery, fresh apples, walnuts, and grapes, dressed in mayonnaise, and traditionally served on a bed of lettuce as an appetizer or a light meal. The apples, celery, and grapes can all be green, which harmonizes the color palette of the dish. Or brighten it up with beautiful red apples and red grapes.
3. Adding sliced or chopped apples to a coleslaw is wonderful! This one to the left is fresh cabbage and kale chopped, with chopped apples kept white with lime juice. The vinaigrette dressing was apple cider vinegar sweetened with a little honey and some light oil. I threw in some freeze dried cranberries for colour.
Apples for Breakfast
Apple Pancakes Chopped unpeeled apples tossed into pancake batter. Top with a big dollop of fresh apple sauce.
Apple Waffles Shredded apples in waffle batter, topped with fresh apple sauce.
– Apple Dumplings – Apple Fritters – Apple Cheesecake – Apple Jelly – Apple Turnovers – Apple Strudel – there are literally thousands of recipes for using fresh apples. Look around you, ask others what their favourite apple recipes are. Make this an APPLE AUTUMN.
But what about preserving the Excess?
What about those apples we cannot use IN the season? Typical ways to preserve are: freezing, canning, dehydrating and freeze drying. Many freeze in 4 cup amounts to use in apple pies later. Many make apple sauce to freeze or can.
When I had all five kids at home, I canned and dehydrated in a big way. But my needs are different these days. Nowadays I do most preserving in small batches – so much easier. I generally don’t freeze, but I’m not adverse to canning apples. If I do – I would more likely can them in pint jars: sliced with a light lemon syrup, and I would serve them for breakfast or on top of yogurt.
My preferred ways of preserving apples at this point in my life though, are juicing and dehydrating.
Apple Juice
I have a steam juicer that I wouldn’t want to be without. I use it every summer starting when the apples come on. Let’s face it, not all apples are great eating apples. We inherited some very old apple trees when we bought the house we currently live in. Years ago, the apple trees that grew in Edmonton didn’t even have names. They had numbers. The apples weren’t wonderful but its all we had at the time, and they were good for juicing. They started dripping from the tree mid August attracting the wasps. Annoying. Another tree in our yard – was ready to pick the end of August, so as a family activity on our around Labour Day, we picked what amounted to a few hundred pounds most years. We used them all for making juice. Click HERE for Late Summer Days Should Smell of Hot Apple Juice.
Some apples are not beautiful and not great to eat fresh – that’s okay. Juice them! Throw in the last of your cherries for something special.
Pure apple juice.
Apple Cider Vinegar You can make apple cider vinegar by covering apple scraps with water. Or you can simply make it with the juice or freshly pressed apple cider you already made. After a couple of weeks, the apple juice (or cider) you didn’t process (can), will begin to naturally ferment. This is not a bad thing. It just starts to get ‘fizzy’, which I love. Enjoy it. But don’t expect it to stay in that state forever, its on a ‘natural’ journey. The fizzy juice will get fizzier and fizzier, until it seems to have peaked, and then it ‘breaks’. Not so fizzy anymore, not so delicious. That’s okay. Its just preparing to turn into vinegar. Pour it into a clean glass jar, cover it with a breathable lid secured with an elastic band of the jar ring, and set it on the back of your counter where you won’t forget about it. Make a note of your ‘start date’.
Every day or two you will stir it to keep it aerated. This video below is EXCELLENT instruction on how to make your own apple cider vinegar using juice or apple scraps. I highly recommend it.
Dehydrating apple slices and apple leather.
dehydrated apple rings, peeled, cored and sliced. Some cinnamon sugar coated ones are hiding here and there for a special treat.
apple leather, rhubarb leather, raspberry, cherry, plum, peach . . . . Easy to do, great to have on hand
I really hope you’ll find some inspiration here to make the most of the apples you find this year. It’s one of those wonderful foods that WANT to grow in northern Alberta – it only makes sense to me that we find every way we can to benefit from them.
Beautiful. Sweet or tart. Crisp and crunchy. Nutritious and Delicious. Juicy and refreshing. Firm. Fresh. Fragrant. Easy to grow in Alberta. Great and easy snack food. Easy to incorporate into everyday meals and recipes. How does a food get better than that? I want to hear all about the ways you use fresh apples at your house.
Number 1 reason to grow anything for me, is always nutrition, number 2 reason is level of difficulty to grow, and my number 3 reason is its functionality. Win on all counts with squash, and the variation available is literally from A to Z: Acorn Squash to Zucchini. There are hundreds of types of squash, ranging from the classics like zucchini and pumpkin to the just plain weird. If you’re a relatively new gardener, I highly recommend sticking with some tried and true varieties like zucchini, spaghetti squash or butternut. Once you have some success, start to branch out trying to grow types you’ve never grown before.
There are two basic groups of squash: Summer and Winter. The difference essentially boils down to their harvest stage.
Summer squash can be planted directly outdoors by seed, although they’re often started a couple weeks ahead indoors. It grows in a cylinder type plant with the fruit coming out from the middle area. The fruit begins to develop within about 50 days after planting outdoors (so about mid July). The flavour and texture are mild, with both the flesh and the immature seeds eaten together. Beginner gardeners are sometimes tempted to let zucchini grow bigger, but they are much tastier and tender when picked young and immature – averaging 6 – 8 inches/15-20 centimetres long. And the more you pick when they’re young and tender, the more the plant will continue to produce. Letting one go for weeks to reach the size of a canoe, signals the plant to stop producing. So you may win the award for the biggest zucchini but you waste the entire season on something that didn’t even taste good. While young zucchini is often cooked, it is also often eaten raw, and it has a relatively short shelf life – best eaten within a week of picking.
Winter squash has hard, thick skin that are not eaten, and the flesh has a denser texture, with more distinct flavours between types. While all winter squash have unique tastes, I would describe the general flavour over all, as sweeter than summer squash, with a nutty hint. To me, they taste like ‘autumn’. The texture of the flesh is firm and very dense, sometimes to the point of being difficult to cut with a knife. The hard, thick skin that is also difficult to cut with a knife, protects the squash and gives it it’s extra long shelf life.
Is squash good for you? YES! Winter squash is packed with essential nutrients including vitamins A, B and C. The fiber helps with gut health, and other nutrients can contribute to a decreased risk of certain diseases and improved blood pressure.
Before planting: Choose a spot that gets LOTS of sun. Squash plants are heavy feeders so mix a generous amount of aged manure or compost into your planting area (roughly 50% of the existing soil).
It’s best to get a jump on the season by starting seedlings indoors, but beware: seedlings can get very big and lanky so don’t plant in the house before three weeks before you expect to plant outdoors. Starting squash from seed is easy. Make sure you have a warm spot set out – above 20 degrees C is ideal. Or set your tray on top of a heated matt. Using a soil-less seed starter (soil-less) mix, plant 1 or 2 seeds in each starter pot.
Keep the soil-less mix moist and the seeds will germinate in about a week. Give them as much light as possible and they’ll grow quickly. Once the seedlings are 2 weeks old transplant them into an all purpose plant soil. Keep in a very sunny window or under the lights and continue to keep moist. Squash roots are delicate and the plant will go into shock if they’re disturbed. Transplant very gently, so as not to disturb the roots.
TIP: Since winter squashes need up to 110 days to maturity, it is best that they are grown as transplants in our northern gardens. TIP: Leave a fan blowing on your young seedlings as they grow in the house to help to grow heartier plants and to reduce some seedling diseases. Research has shown that stem diameter can be increased by providing seedlings with constant air movement from an oscillating fan.
I’ve read recently that zucchini should do well in big containers. I’ve never tried that, but I am inclined to do so this upcoming growing season. I have a couple of big planters on my patio, and I have a trough in a nice sunny location. I love planting indeterminate tomatoes in it as it has an arbour, but in the interest of rotating crops, I’m always looking for an alternative. The advantages it seems, are that their roots stay warm and I can better control the watering. Taking the time to work some compost into the trough (or pot) would be important, as squash does best on organic material. Of course a layer of mulch on top is always recommended, whether in the garden or in a container.
Plant seedlings outside after all danger of frost is past, and the soil is warm. Ensure they have full sun. Plant in well-draining, compost-rich soil. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy, water regularly. To encourage fruit production, plant pollinator-attracting flowers like cosmos nearby to increase visits from bees and other insects.
For smaller squashes or in limited spaces, consider vertical gardening using an arbour or a string trellis. Winter squash will take more than their fair share of room in the garden, as they send out vines, so plan for that. For years I’ve had mine grow vertically, tying the vines to an arbour or trellis that is strong enough to hold heavy fruit. Growing vertically eliminates the need for a lotta yardage in your garden – perfect for a backyard garden.
*Did you know? the difference between a squash and a gourd is that only that the squash is edible and the gourd is pretty much decorative. The outer skin on the gourd is too thick to make it practical.
Caring for Squash in the Garden Watering: Provide at least one inch deep of water per week, especially during hot, dry periods. Fertilizing: Some recommend feeding squash plants with a balanced vegetable fertilizer or compost tea every few weeks, particularly as they’re fruiting. Personally, I’ve never done this as I start with a good compost base, but I’m thinking I should look into a supplement during the growing season. Pollination: Squash needs pollinators to produce fruit. Plant pollinator-attracting flowers like Salvia, Cosmos or Borage among your squash plants to increase visits from bees and other insects. Mulching: Apply a thick layer of mulch – I use straw – around the root zone to help conserve soil moisture.
TIP: Cutworm prevention – If you’ve had cutworm problems in the past, place a collar around your seedlings right after transplanting. Make collars out of toilet paper rolls, or any plastic container such as a yogurt container with the bottom removed. Insert the collar at least 5 cm / 2 inches in the ground to prevent cutworms from feeding on the stems of your seedlings.
High Yield and Productivity Summer squash plants are known for being substantial fruit producers, with one or two zucchini plants being capable of yielding enough to feed your household and share with friends and neighbors. Think of all the zucchini jokes you’ve heard. If you haven’t had that experience of squash producing abundantly, don’t despair. Simply try again. And again. If you’re not getting enough zucchini, you may have a poor pollination issue. Hand pollinating your female flowers, will help.
* Did you know? Squash are fruits – actually BERRIES. Botanically, a berry is a fleshy fruit that develops from a single flower and contains two or more seeds. It is characterized by a soft, fleshy pulp and thin, outer skin, so with this definition – berries include bananas, grapes, tomatoes, pumpkins and watermelons. Raspberries, black berries, strawberries and cherries, – are not.
A butternut squash plant should be able to yield 4 good sized fruits; other winter squash should yield similar amounts. Squash produce both male and female flowers on the same plant, but if the summer is too cool it may only produce males, which don’t yield fruit. Not much you can do about a cool summer. Female flowers have a distinct squash shaped bulge on its stem.
Remember that while it may be that zucchini is famous for producing an overabundance of fruit, if you don’t pick it continuously, instead leaving a few zucchinis to grow way too big, this will send a signal to the plant to stop producing. You’ll actually be sabotaging your own success.
TIP: Remember to record what and when you plant. It’s helpful to draw a map to help you track planting locations and success each year. This information is important to properly rotate your crops, but also critical to being able to learn from your experience. What went wrong? what did I do right?
Harvesting
Summer squash is picked when its still immature – while the skin is tender and smooth. Many believe the perfect eating size is 6-8 inches, and it is generally eaten without peeling. The most well known summer squash in Alberta is ZUCCHINI, but while all zucchini is summer squash, not all summer squash are ‘zucchini’.
Other varieties of summer squash are: crookneck squash, patty pan squash, and the doppelganger of zucchini – called ‘yellow’ squash, some call it yellow zucchini.
Winter squash is harvested fully mature, after a long growing season. The skin should be hard and not easily punctured with the thumb nail (don’t try too hard as that’s pretty counter productive). Cut the squash off the vine, leaving a generous portion of the stem attached. Harvest before a heavy frost, but most squash can handle a light frost well. Some say that a light frost increases the sugar content, but my counsel is to not to ‘play ‘chicken’ with the frost, you have too much to lose.
Winter squash has separate male and female flowers. The female flower requires pollen in order to produce fruit, but the pollen can come from other compatible species. Pollen is moved by insects such as honey bees, bumblebee, hoverflies, ants and others. If you’re wanting to protect a heritage seed source, then you will not want cross pollination between neighbouring plants. Here is an example of cross-pollination: If you grow acorn squash in the garden and it is pollinated by a nearby zucchini, this year’s fruit will still look like an acorn squash. But if you harvest the seed from that squash, the seed will contain genes from both the zucchini and the acorn squash. If that seed is grown next year, the resulting fruit will look very different – with a combination of characteristics of both parents. This is called a hybrid.
How to Save and Store Seeds: Harvest seeds from full-grown older squashes because their seeds will be fully mature. Carefully cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Wash seeds well in clear water to remove as much of the stringy flesh and slime as possible. Spread on a dish towel and allow to dry completely. Drying can take a week – depends on the humidity in the air.
* Saving squash seeds can be kinda tricky because there are always cross-pollinating with other nearby plants. See footnote 1 How do garden vegetables cross pollinate? see footnote. 2
Vegetable seeds can keep for several years if you store them properly. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place. Moisture, heat and light can cause seeds to sprout or rot.
Storing winter squash
If the fruit is fully ripe, hard skinned and blemish free, you should be able to store it in slightly less than room temperature conditions for 3 – 5 months. Make sure there are NO injuries on the skin – as those will be the ‘spot’ where decay will begin.
Yes, I know, you have a friend who says they store their squash till the following summer. I too have such a friend. There will always be those who insist that’s a good thing. It’s not. We’re talking about FOOD, not building material. As with all our food, we should want to eat it when it’s still highly nutritious. The nutritional value, texture and flavour (there is an important correlation between texture, flavour and nutrition), will degrade over its storage life – so the older you stretch it, the less the quality – in every single way. Plan to use winter squash within 4 or 5 months from harvest for best taste, texture and nutrition. That brings you up to February. That’s considered a long time – so be reasonable.
How to save and store seeds:
Vegetable seeds can keep for several years if you store them properly. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place. Moisture, heat and light can cause seeds to sprout or rot. Place your seeds in envelopes or make your own envelopes out of foil or waxed paper. Label with name of the seeds and the date (month and year) you harvested them.
* TIP: Once completely dry, place your envelope inside an airtight container.
Here’s an interesting tip I recently read about. To help keep sees dry, place a tablespoon of dry powdered milk in a paper towel or piece of cloth, secured with a twist tie of piece of string. The powdered milk they say, will absorb humidity and keep seeks dry inside an airtight container. I might give this a try this year. I’ll let you know what I think later.
Eating IN-the-season
If you know me at all, you know I’m all about eating IN THE SEASON. Enjoying fruits and vegetables while they are at their very best, “in-the-season” – means eating as much as possible IN the season in which they were harvested, providing their most nutritious offering. Ideally – fresh raspberries, cherries, peaches and watermelon early to mid summer. Fresh tomatoes from July through about November. Fresh apples and plums from mid August through the late fall. Cabbage in the fall and winter. Winter squash from late summer / early fall to January / February. For years, we’ve been trained by supermarkets to think we deserve to eat anything we want, any time of the year. But there is a price to that kind of entitlement. We don’t need to eat everything – ALL the time. We can do just fine without watermelon or FRESH tomatoes in the winter, and without squash in the spring. Personally, I have no desire to eat pumpkin pie in the spring. That just seems all kinds of wrong to me. Some things are meant to eat in the winter – like winter squash. With both summer and winter varieties of squash, we can enjoy a regular harvest of ‘zucchini’ throughout the warm months and store winter squash for months of delicious, healthy eating during the colder times when other vegetables are not so available.
What we cannot eat fresh IN-the-season, we preserve in the best ways available. This is “preserving the excess”.
PRESERVING
Storage Conditions: Proper long term food storage of winter squash is in a cool, dark, DRY place. This will help preserve the nutritional value too. Some winter squash can keep longer than others. For instance, pumpkins and hubbard squash can last longer than acorn squash. Generally ‘long term’ is considered anywhere from 2-4 months) Keep your squash in an area will you will see it often, and off the cement floor. If you tuck it away where you seldom see it, you’ll forget about it and at best, you’re apt to miss the signs of decline.
What are the signs of decline? A squash past its prime will begin to show signs of spoilage. You’ll see soft spots and perhaps mold on the stem. This simply means you’ve waited a little too long, so USE IT NOW! before its too late.
FREEZING: Squash doesn’t lend itself well to fresh freezing. I have found that the texture gets watery and very undesirable. But if you roast it or steam it in the oven it freezes very nicely.
method 1 – steaming: Cut winter squash into wedges, and place on baking dish cut side down. Pour about an inch of water in pan, and bake in 375 degrees F oven till fork tender. Depending on what kind of squash it is, expect it to take between 45 minutes to an hour. Its ready when tender to the fork. You may need to add a little more water from time to time. Allow to cool on counter till you can handle it, then scoop out of the shell and place into a freezer container. Label and date. Freeze up to 3 months.
method 2 – roasting: Cut squash into wedges, put on baking sheet, cut side up. Drizzle lightly with oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and any preferred seasoning. Bake at 375 till charred, soft and tender to the fork. Allow to cool on counter, then remove the flesh from its shell (I use an ice cream scoop), and place into a freezer container. Label and date. Freeze up to 3 months.
method 3 – roasting: Peel squash and cut into cubes, place on baking sheet, lightly drizzle with oil and sprinkle seasonings. Toss to coat and bake in 375 F oven till fork tender. Cool, then place into freezer container. Label and date. Freeze up to 3 months.
Does it go bad? Sitting in the freezer longer than 3 months will decrease quality significantly. The longer its frozen, the poorer the quality. But no, it doesn’t “go bad”.
Eating winter squash
Winter squash can be roasted to use in salads or served directly on your plate. They can also be made into soups or stews. Who hasn’t tried pumpkin pie? Or pumpkin loaf (like banana loaf), or muffins. One of our favourite cookies in the fall is pumpkin cookies.
This time of year we in my house like pumpkin chowder, pumpkin scones, pumpkin bread, pumpkin muffins, pumpkin cookies, pumpkin cake, pumpkin pie of course, pumpkin dip with gingersnaps, pumpkin pancakes, pumpkin & meatballs over rice, . . . . If you haven’t found a way to enjoy squash – you couldn’t have tried very hard.
If you have a favourite recipe, please share it with me below in the comment area.
Making baby food with winter squash Baby food can be easily made at home. Doing so allows you to take advantage of fresh and seasonal, locally grown fruit or vegetables as well as control the ingredients. You can also adjust the food texture or consistency to whatever stage your baby is at. Winter squash is highly nutritious and its smooth texture makes it easy to dilute with water if necessary, or not if the baby is a little older. It is naturally sweet and appealing. As with all baby food, don’t prepare more than you need for a day.
My personal favourite winter squash for eating is Butternut. Hands down it beats all others in my opinion, so it’s no surprise that its most of what I cook. And my favourite way of preparing it is to ROAST it in the oven, usually in cubes. The variations are endless.
Roasted Butternut Squash in cubes
Ingredients: 1 large butternut squash (about 3 pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes 2 Tablespoons olive oil + 1 more 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon black pepper. This may be a lotta pepper for you, so if you’re not a big fan of black pepper, go ahead and reduce by 1/2. * seasoning variations (see below for suggestions) * optional: fresh chopped rosemary – goes with most other flavours
Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. 2. Generously wipe two large baking sheets with up to a Tablespoon of olive oil in each pan. 3. Place the squash cubes in a large bowl. Drizzle with remaining olive oil, then sprinkle with salt & pepper and additional seasoning combination of your choice (see below). Toss to coat, then divide between the two baking sheets. Spread the cubes in a single layer on the prepared baking sheets. 4. Place the pans on two separate racks in your oven, for about 30 minutes, turning squash over with a spatula half way through, and rotating pans. 5. Continue baking the remaining 15 minutes or until the squash is tender to the fork. 6. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with fresh rosemary. Serve warm.
Roasted Butternut Squash in wedges
1 medium butternut squash (about 3 lb) 2 Tablespoons olive oil ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg ½ teaspoon fine sea salt ¼ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves (plus a few more whole leaves to top) 2 Tablespoons coconut sugar 2 Tablespoons fresh walnuts
Directions: Cut butternut squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out seeds with a spoon, and discard. Cut each half into 3 wedges. Toss the squash wedges with the oil, nutmeg, salt, pepper and sage (both chopped and whole) until well coated. Arrange flesh-side up on parchment-lined baking sheet with the sage leaves touching the wedges.
Bake for about 50-60 minutes or until the flesh is easily pierced with a knife. Sprinkle coconut sugar and chopped walnuts over squash and return to the oven for another 8-10 minutes or until wedges are golden and caramelized around the edges and the walnuts are toasted.
Serve warm or even room temperature. I even like it straight outta the fridge.
seasoning suggestions for roasted squash:
* Cumin (my usual go to): 1 Tablespoon cumin powder, thyme and oregano: 1 T of each * Cinnamon Roasted: 1-2 T of pure maple syrup, 2 teaspoons cinnamon powder * Sage roasted: ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg. ½ teaspoon your salt of choice, ½ teaspoon coarse black pepper (or half that amount if you’re inclined to do so, 1 T dried sage leaves crumbled, 2 T coconut sugar, 2 T chopped walnuts
Curried Pumpkin Soup
– a hearty delicious way to use leftover jack-o-lanterns – in large sauce pan, sauté over medium heat till onions are translucent: 2 T butter 1 medium onion chopped 2 cloves garlic minced
Add: 6 cups peeled and cubed fresh pumpkin 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth 1 cup orange juice 2 T curry powder Bring to a slow boil and simmer till pumpkin is soft and tender. Puree in batches in blender, then add 1 cup sour cream Warm thoroughly but do not boil. Serve warm.
based on Patti Shenfield’s Pumpkin Chowder
4 cups cubed potatoes 2 medium carrots sliced 1 stalk celery chopped 1 onion diced 1/2 green pepper diced 2 cups chicken broth 1/4 cup butter 1/3 cup water 3 T flour 1 + 1/2 cup pumpkin puree OR a 398 ml can (14 oz) 1 + 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp pepper 2 cups water + 1 cup whole milk grated cheddar cheese Directions with variation suggestions at the bottom: 1. In a heavy soup pot, combine potatoes, carrots, celery, onion, peppers in the chicken broth. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add butter. 2. Mix 1/3 cup water and 3 Tbsp flour till smooth and pour into the soup pot, stirring frequently. 3. Add pumpkin, salt, pepper, parsley, sugar and 2 cups water. Reduce heat and cook on low till vegetables are tender – about 30 minutes, stirring once in a while to prevent scorching. 4. Stir in milk. 5. Serve in bowls with garnish of grated cheddar and chopped parsley. May serve as is – a vegetable soup, or puree in blender before serving as a cream soup. Or puree a third of the soup, leaving the remaining chunks for texture. * I’ve added a quart of home canned tomatoes with 1/4 cup tomato paste – and the results were terrific. * I’ve used freeze dried potatoes, onions, celery, peppers and cheddar – even freeze dried butternut squash instead of onions.
Roasted Butternut Squash Soup
This kind of ‘recipe’ is using what you’ve got on hand. It may never be exactly the same twice, but it will always be delicious.
the ingredients I used in this batch: 1 butternut squash – washed, cut in half and cleaned out 2 onions 5 potatoes – cut in big chunks 1 large sweet potato – cut in big chunks 5 large carrots – cut in big chunks 3 peppers (red, yellow or orange) – cut in half (stem and seeds removed) whole head of garlic with top cut off, or in individual cloves 1 Tbsp each: cumin and paprika 1 tsp each: salt and back pepper 1/3 cup olive oil 1 quart vegetable broth 1 19 oz can coconut cream (560 ml)
Into a large baking dish, put: 1 butternut squash, cut side up, scored crisscross with a sharp knife. Add onions, potatoes, carrots, onions, peppers and garlic. Don’t bother peeling anything, just make sure they’re all clean. Drizzle with olive oil Add seasoning. Don’t be afraid to add your seasoning of choice. Try a teaspoon of cinnamon or ginger. Bake in 350 degree oven about an hour, till fork tender. Add a few minutes if necessary. When fork tender, remove from oven and allow to cool. Once the squash is cool enough to handle, scoop out the softened flesh with an ice cream scoop and put everything (in different stages) into a good strong blender, using vegetable broth as the liquid. Puree. The only peel you’re gonna discard is the squash and the garlice if you used the whole head. Pour each batch into a saucepan as it is done. Once all the vegetables are pureed, gently warm up over medium heat. Add any remaining vegetable broth, and as a last step, pour in coconut cream that has been stirred if necessary.
Serve with sourdough bread toasted. Enjoy.
Dorothy Beck’s Pumpkin Cookies
– I got this recipe in 1983 from my friend Dorothy Beck. It became a favourite in our house on chilly fall and winter school days. A nice soft tender cookie. Makes about 5 dozen. 1 cup shortening 2 cups sugar 4 eggs 2 cups cooked pumpkin 2 teaspoons vanilla 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 T cinnamon 4 + 1/2 cups flour 2 cups raisins * 1 cup chopped nuts – your choice, optional
Directions: Preheat oven 350 F. 1. In mixer, cream together shortening and sugar. Add eggs one at a time till thoroughly mixed. 2. Add pumpkin and beat in completely. Set aside. 3. Sift together all dry ingredients and set aside. 4. Add dry ingredients to pumpkin mixture one cup at a time, mixing well with a spoon. 5. Half way through flour addition, add raisins and nuts, stir in. 6. Finish adding flour. 7. Drop cookie dough by teaspoons onto prepared cookie sheet – either greased or use parchment. 8. Bake in 350 degree oven till done. Probably 15-20 minutes? Check frequently. Cookies are done when they spring back to the touch. Cool slightly on pan, then using spatula, place them on a rack to cool completely while you re-use the pan to make more.
Patti Shenfield’s Pumpkin Loafbased on the recipe in her bookFLAVORS OF HOME
1/2 cup butter melted or your favourite cooking oil 1 cup pumpkin mash 1/2 cup sour cream or plain yogurt 2 tsp vanilla 1 egg 2 cups flour 1 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp of each: cinnamon and ginger + 1/4 tsp nutmeg 1 cup sugar 3/4 cup chopped walnut Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F 2. In small mixing bowl combine oil, pumpkin puree, sour cream, vanilla and egg. Beat until smooth. Set aside. 3. In large mixing bowl sift dry ingredients together, and make a well in the middle of it. 4. Add wet ingredients and still around till all is moistened. 5. Pour into greased and floured loaf pan. . 6. Bake 50-60 minutes or until a tookpick inserted into the middle comes out clean. Can be used for muffins instead. of cake Can add chocolate chips.
Pumpkin Scones with Maple Syrup Glaze
3 cups unbleached flour 1 T baking powder 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon allspice 1/2 teaspoon each of ginger and nutmeg 3/4 teaspoon salt sift all the dry ingredients together
1 cup COLD butter cut up Using two forks or a pastry cutter, work the butter into the dry ingredients. Don’t get too carried away and make the pieces too small. Course like whole rolled oats is fine enough. Set aside.
mix liquid ingredients together (*hint: have them cold): 1 cup pumpkin puree 2 eggs 1/2 cup heavy cream OR kefir OR plain yogurt OR sour cream OR buttermilk 3/4 cup brown sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla
Line a cookie sheet with parchment (a baker’s best friend). Preheat oven to 400 F. Put your rack in the centre of oven.
Pour liquid ingredients into the sifted dry ingredients, and gently mix by folding, only until all moistened. Don’t over stir. Sprinkle a little flour onto the counter and dump out the dough onto it. Gently mix with hands only until you’ve created a ball. Divide into two equal smaller balls and place on either end of your parchment covered cookie sheet. Gently pat down with the palm of your hand, to form a disk about 6 inches across. Cut each disk into 8 equal pieces, and gently separate so each piece is an inch or two apart.
Bake 18 – 20 minutes, starting to test after 15 minutes but gently tapping the scones with your finger. You’re looking for it to bounce back. When done, remove from oven and allow to cool on pan.
* While scones are cooling, prepare this delicious glaze: in small sauce pan over low heat, melt 2 Tablespoons butter. Add 1/3 cup maple syrup and mix thoroughly, removing from heat. Add 1 cup icing sugar. Mix thoroughly and drizzle over top baked scones.
I prepared my glaze too early and it was setting by the time I got a chance to use it. I couldn’t drizzle anymore, I had to spread it – which was okay too.
I hope you’ll fall in love with squash – especially winter squash. It’s the end of September as I write this, so in our house we’re just gearing up for cold weather recipes. I’d love to see some of your favourite recipes using all kinds of squash. Please share in the comments. I will continue to add new recipes as I find them in my own collection.
Warmly,
Cindy Suelzle
Footnotes:
Delicata, acorn and spaghetti are related closely enough to zucchini and pumpkin that they can cross pollinate: all are Cucurbita pepo. Winter squashes such as hubbard, kobacha, buttercup and turk’s turban belong to Cucurbita maxima and can cross pollinate one another. Butternut squash is Cucurbita moschata and does not cross-pollinate with the squashes listed above. Winter squash have separate male and female flowers. The female flower requires pollen in order to produce fruit, but the pollen can come from other compatible species. Pollen is moved by insects such as bees, bumblebee, hoverflies, ants and others. Here is an example of cross-pollination: If you grow acorn squash in the garden and it is pollinated by a nearby zucchini, this year’s fruit will still look like an acorn squash. But if you harvest the seed from that squash, the seed will contain genes from both the zucchini and the acorn squash. If that seed is grown next year, the resulting fruit will look very different – with a combination of characteristics of both parents. This is called a hybrid. ↩︎
Here is an example of cross-pollination: If you grow acorn squash in the garden and it is pollinated by a nearby zucchini, this year’s fruit will still look like an acorn squash. But if you harvest the seed from that squash, the seed will contain genes from both the zucchini and the acorn squash. If that seed is grown next year, the resulting fruit will look very different – with a combination of characteristics of both parents. This is called a hybrid. ↩︎
Winter squash have separate male and female flowers. The female flower requires pollen in order to produce fruit, but the pollen can come from other compatible species. Pollen is moved by insects such as bees, bumblebee, hoverflies, ants and others.
an interesting memory popped up in my facebook profile today . . . and it caused me to reflect on how things could have been
June 12, 2010 early in the morning, I was suddenly awakened by a crashing sound outside in our backyard, and then silence. I looked out the window and couldn’t see anything until it occurred to me that I should be seeing a fence where I wasn’t. I watched the car who had backed into a panel of our fence and knocked it down, pull forward, and pull into the garage. The door shut.
With some incredulousness I told Dan “Someone just knocked our fence down.” He joined me at the window. I said “It was our neighbour. She just pulled into the garage.” We went outside and took a closer look. It was a Friday. We had a dog, so going the day without a fence wasn’t gonna work. Dan took the day off, went to Home Depot and spent the morning fixing it. He said it really wasn’t that bad.
Before I left for the store, I posted the following in facebook ….
“our neighbour across the alley just backed into our fence, knocked out several boards and knocked down the huge stack of firewood we had lined up against it onto several perineal plants in their path, and then quietly drove back into their garage and shut the door (while I watched from the window). … ”
Several people responded to my post; my daughter’s response (she knows her mom) was:
“firewood . . . fence . . . whatever. Plants! Boy are they in trouble!”
Some time in the morning, after I had left for work, Dan went over to talk to the neighbour. His wife was just driving away as he got there. The neighbour apologized. His wife had had some distress and was on her way to a doctor’s appointment. I do not remember what the story was, not even sure we heard it, but I know there was one. And clearly it was an accident; the kind of accident that your newly driving teenager might have. As the parent of that newly driving teenager, there would be a list of things one might do, including having the kid own it, and share some responsibility for paying for and repairing the damage.
That evening, after I was home from work, our lady neighbour came over to apologize. Dan had been able to stay home during the day to fix the fence. We introduced ourselves, had a good visit, no hard feelings. She offered to pay for the material, but Dan declined – saying it hadn’t been that expensive of a fix. Thank goodness the hit was between posts so they weren’t jeopardized. She promised him a jar of pickled beets for his trouble.
Good way to meet your neighbours and to make a few new friends. Even if you don’t like pickled beets – which Dan doesn’t LOL.
I recall being contemplative for many months when I looked back and considered the events of that day. Who knows what goes on in someone’s mind? What the backstory of any particular event might be? What they were dealing with? It wasn’t a tragedy. No one got hurt. There was no point in losing our minds over it. And within 24 hours, it was as if it hadn’t happened – except that we had a jar of pickled beets in the fridge. But today as that memory showed up on facebook, I reflected on it again. We have been here in this house for 26 years and have never really had too many interchanges with those neighbours across the alley. I cannot even tell you what they look like, not sure we’d recognize one another at the grocery store. Though I have spent more than a few hours working in the alley behind our fence over the years, we’ve seldom run into each other.
What a tragedy it could have been if we had had a bad interchange that day. If we had allowed such a minor incident to be the excuse to not behave kindly, it could have initiated bad feelings between us for years – which is sad to contemplate. To be fair, we were busy and preoccupied raising our five kids during those years, managing our bookstore and Dan’s business, serving in church, and involved with our respective families and aging parents. We didn’t have a whole lotta time to reach out to neighbours we rarely saw anyway. But what if our only interaction with them had been unpleasant? What if it had involved harsh words of judgement and anger? Those things are difficult to come back from.
What if she couldn’t muster up the courage to come over and apologize? Would that have made a difference? Sometimes people justify not being able to let things go because they didn’t receive an appropriate apology – effectively shifting control of their own life choices to someone else. Would we have had a harder time letting it go? What if the damage had been greater? More expensive? What if Dan wasn’t able to fix it and we had to hire someone? What if? What if?
Hard to say what would have transpired if some of those ‘what ifs’ had taken place instead of what actually did. But I truly believe – from our part, it wouldn’t have amounted to a hill of beans. It may have taken a little more time to repair, perhaps even a little more money, but it too would have faded into the past.
But what IF when Dan went over that morning, he had been angry? What if he had been confrontational? What if our neighbour had felt challenged by his actions or words? What if he had responded poorly? Could anyone blame our lady neighbour then, if she couldn’t bring herself to knock on our door later that day? And then what? Would we have resented her lack of follow up? How differently our actions that day could have made the outcome. What if we had insisted they pay for it? Insisted that they fix it? I’m sure they would have – it would have been the right thing for them to do – BUT . . . .
But we would have missed the opportunity to have had good feelings between us. . . . . we would have allowed a little incident to become bigger than it deserved to be. . . . . we would have disliked them and given them reason to dislike us. All these years later when we didn’t have reason or opportunity to interact, we could have blamed on that day.
I do regret not having or taking the time to be a better neighbour to them. We went to a garage sale there a couple years ago, where Dan bought the wagon he fixed up for me, and that I use all summer long to walk to and from the community garden with my plants and tools. We learned that her husband had passed away during Covid. A missed opportunity to bring over a meal and some flowers, and expressed caring – had we known.
I’ve had times in my life when I’ve been harsh, when I’ve said things I felt justified in, but that I later regretted. Those times are heavy to me. They undoubtedly affected someone else’s day, and have influenced their feelings toward me and perhaps even about themselves. Some of them I can perhaps still alter, but most are lost opportunities.
I feel impressed today to pay more attention to interactions I have with others – no matter how brief. To make sure that when I come to those forks, I take the kinder, gentler road; that I don’t leave this earth with any more regrets than I currently carry. If I may, I suggest we all pay more attention to our interactions with others. In the end, the person they will benefit the most will likely be ourselves.
Its time to change my story – before it’s too late. We all can be better neighbours. We can make better stories than a fence, a wood pile and a jar of pickled beets.
I’d love to hear your thoughts and comments, and maybe even your experiences and suggestions.
“Preserving and storing garden produce extends the harvest season, reducing food waste, cutting grocery costs, and ensuring access to nutritious, homegrown food – bridging the gap between growing seasons (what our pioneer ancestors call ‘the hungry months’. It builds your level of self-reliance, providing food security against shortages, and enhancing emergency preparedness.
APPROPRIATE preserving methods retain more nutrients than many store-bought options, while allowing you to control ingredients, minimizing additives, preservatives and extra sugar. APPROPRIATE storage methods will allow your family to enjoy seasonal fruits and vegetables throughout the winter.
Below, we’ll discuss discuss 6 different ways of preserving food and best storage methods suited to each food you grow in your backyard. We’ll also take a few cautionary side trips to ensure food safety.” – Cindy Suelzle
What is the Hungry Gap?
The hungry months (‘hungry gap’ or ‘hungry season’) refer to the time, usually between March and May, when stored supplies from the previous year’s harvest have run out, and before the new season’s crops are ready to be harvested. Historically, this was a time of food scarcity, with families being forced to rely on limited rations, forage for wild food, and eat nutrient-poor diets. Proper food preservation and storage aim to reduce or eliminate the hungry gap.
Right off the bat, let’s dispel a few common misconceptions that I observe over and over.
Myth 1: Harvest is at the end of summer. Sometimes new gardeners have the idea that gardening is like a sandwich. They expect to plant in the spring and harvest in the fall. Truth: If you’ve gardened for awhile, you know the truth is very different. Aside from the near daily attention of watering and weeding, you can begin eating out of your garden within the first few weeks after planting (in garden talk that’s almost immediately), and throughout the growing season. Harvest is an ongoing processall-season-long. That means you’re picking and eating of course, but also picking and freezing, picking and canning, picking and pickling or fermenting, and picking and dehydrating all that is not consumed right away.
Yes, there will be things you’ll be harvesting at summer’s end – like winter squash, root vegetables, apples, plums and grapes, but that doesn’t take into consideration all the other fruits and vegetables (especially garden greens) that you’ll miss if you wait.
Myth 2: Fresh food from the grocery store is the BEST option nutritionally. Truth: The word “fresh” has been stretched and misused to define all sorts of things. The produce in the grocery stores should best be defined as ‘perishable’ instead of ‘fresh’. To be clear, I am not dissing perishable fruits and vegetables in the produce department of our favourite grocery stores. In Alberta, this is the only way we’re ever gonna enjoy pineapple or bananas, or mangoes or citrus fruits, or let’s face it – many other things. All I’m saying is – be reasonable about your nutritional expectations. Don’t expect a mango we buy at the grocery store to be everything it was in the hour it is harvested.
In many cases, it often takes a week or more after harvest before produce arrives on our grocery store shelves, and this, after being picked before it’s ripe. Since all produce begins deteriorating within the hour it’s harvested, having it be two weeks from harvest before we even see it is a problem. Sometimes, preserved food might actually be more nutritious than the older perishable food in the produce department. Open your mind to some new considerations.
It doesn’t matter how good it was on the day it was harvested, if it doesn’t get taken care of immediately. All produce begins to deteriorate within the first hour of harvest, so remember – THE CLOCK IS TICKING!
Myth 3: Storing food will make it last indefinitely. Truth: Nothing STOPS food spoilage, it’s food! It’s not indestructible, but certain methods of preserving slow spoilage down. That is the best we can hope for. No matter what you hear, no stored food lasts indefinitely. Be reasonable. Nutrition is optimum the fresher it is, of course, and it is best used within a certain time frame. All storage methods have limits that are shorter than we might assume.
Generally this is what you can expect with preserving:
Canned food – commercially canned or home-bottled food has a recommended shelf life of 18 months to 2 years. Two years is the time frame I try to work within. Nutritional value is approximately 40% of whatever that food was when it went into the bottle. That nutritional value decreases as it ages, so yes, we may all know someone who has bottled peaches from 2018 on their shelf, but just because it’s there, doesn’t mean it should be eaten. The nutritional value is so poor . . . . Just EAT the doggone thing or give it to the chickens! Get it over with! What are you waiting for?
Frozen fruits and vegetables if prepared properly have a recommended shelf life of 4 months to a year. For me, I use a year as my benchmark. Nutritional value is approximately 60% of whatever the food was the hour it went into the freezer. The key is to have it in the freezer as close to harvest time as possible. Don’t forget about it in there.
Dehydrated foods have a Potential Shelf Life of – 1 year for fruits, 6 months for vegetables, 1-2 months for meat (6 months if vacuum sealed. I say potential because there are so many factors to consider when dehydrating at home. How long between picking time and the dehydrator? Did you remove all the moisture? Are you certain? How are you storing it? Best practise is to store in coolish room temperatures (no less than 40 F / 5 C and no higher than 70 F / 20 C), out of direct light. Nutritional value is approximately 80%; again the key is prompt processing.
Freeze dried foods has the potential for a 25 year shelf life IF done properly, IF packaged properly, and IF stored properly. Freeze drying is a gentler process preserving and protecting food value. Nutritional value could be over 90%, with a lotta variables in the shelf life. How you package your freeze dried food will influence its long term stability. A sealed oxygen-free can or jar has the longest storage potential. A high quality mylar bag – provides a top 5-8 year shelf life.
It is impossible to achieve the coveted 25 year shelf life in a typical home kitchen – no matter how expensive your freeze-drier is. So stop having unreasonable expectations, and agree to live with the way things are. Freeze drying is a good way to preserve, but if you have to buy the food you’re going to freeze-dry, you’re already behind the 8 ball. And if you don’t store it properly , it will not last as long as you think it will.
The key to success for all preserved food – is ROTATION. Rotation means you USE it! 1st in – 1st out. Commit to using the food you preserve.
Community
One of your greatest resources when learning how to preserve the food you grow (or acquire) is other people. Everyone has an idea you’ve never tried (or even heard about) before. Don’t be stuck in the way you’ve always done things, just because that’s how you always have. But just because your girlfriend’s mom did things a certain way, doesn’t mean that’s best either. Be open-minded and willing to LEARN, willing to try new things. Be wise and pay attention to details. And then share your successes and failures with others so everyone can get better.
get a good book you can trust
I am not saying this is the book you must have (in fact, it’s out of print), but there are other excellent resources available with important details that will be invaluable to you in your food-preserving journey. Look around, do some research and FIND a GOOD BOOK that will not only give you great suggestions and recipes, but more importantly – tell you how to can, and the times to boil your jars, what times and pressure to use when you’re pressure canning, suggested steaming or blanching times when you’re canning etc. These are very important details.
These things have been (and continue to be) studied in test kitchens for decades. What temperatures and times are needed to safely preserve food? What temperatures kill the toxins that cause botulism? Don’t depend on your memory, don’t depend on what Aunt Martha has always done, and if you use google, be very cautious about where you take your information.
before we go on, we must take an important cautionary side trip . . . . . don’t skip this part below, it could save your life
Botulism! is nothing to trifle with.
What is it? Botulism is a rare but serious condition caused by a toxin that attacks the body’s nervous system. It can cause life-threatening symptoms. All forms of botulism can be fatal and are considered medical emergencies, but for our purposes here, we’re only talking about Foodborne Botulism.
Harmful bacteria can thrive and produce toxins in low-oxygen, and low-acid environments. The bacterium responsible for botulism grows best in these conditions which is why improperly processed home-canned or bottled foods pose a higher risk. Freezing does not destroy the bacteria or it’s spores. While boiling can destroy the toxin itself, it does not kill the spores, which can survive and later produce more toxin under the right conditions.
Strict adherence to cleanliness, and ensuring that proper canning methods are used when home preserving is more important than we might suspect. Fruits and vegetables should be washed thoroughly before using. Glass jars should be cleaned with hot soapy water, rinsed with hot water and kept clean till used. It is not necessary to sterilize jars if they will be processed in a hot water bath for at least 10 minutes.
Only high acid foods like some fruits and in some cases pickled vegetables, should be canned in a hot water bath canner. Why? A boiling water bath (212°F) is only safe for high-acid foods (fruits, pickles, jams) because the acid prevents the botulism spores from germinating, even though the heat does not kill them.
Low acid foods: vegetables, legumes, soups, sauces, meat and fish should be processed in a pressure canner under recommended pressure. Don’t guess about the what pressure to use, or the timing, always use a reputable guide. Why pressure? Because botulism spores are highly resistant to heat and can survive boiling water, but they are destroyed at temperatures of 240°F and above.1 which are only achievable in a pressure canner.
Key Facts About Pressure Canning and Botulism Safety:
Temperature Requirement: To destroy botulism spores, food must be processed at 240°F (116°C) or higher, using 10-15 pounds per square inch (PSI) of pressure.
EATING “IN THE SEASON”
Years ago (for nutritional reasons), I decided to focus our eating IN THE SEASON, preserving the EXCESS of what we could use immediately. Consequently, we eat primarily out of our garden from the beginning of May through the end of September. Other than the watermelon we buy constantly throughout the summer, 90% of our fresh produce comes from the garden. Like everyone else, I still like summer fruits we cannot grow in our climate: peaches, nectarines, citrus, and blackberries – when all those fruits are at their best. Lucky for me, I live in a place where I have the best of both worlds.
Every growing season will be different; not every vegetable will do great every year. Some years are going to be great tomato years, some will be better green crop years. It is important to diversify what we grow to give us the best variety and chances for success. For instance, our growing season – summer of 2024 – was the perfect lesson for why diversification is a good idea.
It threw some unexpected curve balls at us: April was cold, May was cold and excessively windy, even June was cold and very windy. 2 I was still planting my garden in the middle of June – a full month later than than I ever have before. But then the weather was perfect for weeks at a time. By mid July most things had caught up. Who knew? April, May and June of 2024 was perfect spinach weather, but unfortunately for me, and uncharacteristically, I hadn’t planted any spinach. Booooo me.
MAY
What is typically ready in my yard (and probably your yard too) in May? * Early greens like spinach if you got it planted early enough (April, or even the previous August is a good time). * Volunteer Greens: Lambs Quarters – a common garden edible weed that is very much like spinach in many ways. Dandelion leaves – open your mind – when they’re very young, (young dandelion greens are nice added to a salad). Giant hyssop is an edible native plant that comes up early. Chickweed (yes, another common garden edible weed) that springs to life as soon as the ground warms up. * Sorrel, one of the earliest garden greens. * Rhubarb is at its best at the beginning of the season. * Chives, Garlic Chives and Welsh Onions are up and big enough to start picking for meals.
JUNE
What is ready in my yard (and probably your yard too) in June? * All your herbs. * More early greens, including lettuces. * Early strawberries. * Haskaps are the first fruits of the season – usually ready before the middle of the month. * Rhubarb is full on and at its best in June.
JULY
By the first of July, you should be eating something from your garden every day. Peas, beans, more greens including Asian greens, kale, the first cucumbers, every kind of herb, and the first tomatoes, zucchini and onions, black currants and more strawberries.
AUGUST
Very soon the excitement of first ripening turns into mass ripeness – all ready to harvest at the same time. Zucchini that gets so big you can use it for a piece of furniture, or it sits on the counter for several days before you use it; kale that grows bigger by the hour; more salad than anyone can enjoy, and more basil-wrapped-tomatoes than you can put on any table. Who has time to do take-out in the summer? And why would you? There is so much to eat every day right in your garden.
Part of the beauty of summer is the healthful benefits of eating in-the-season. Shop for dinner every day from your garden. There’s nothing like fresh sour cherries or plums from the tree, or those first crisp apples! But don’t miss the more subtle offerings: parsley that is ready fresh all summer long – with plenty to be dehydrated for use all winter, kale that we can literally pick every day and it never stops producing, with lots left to freeze or dehydrate. Gardeners, we have carefully tended our food plants since the weather warmed up, so be open to all the ways they want to give back to us. In some cases, the more we pick, the more will keep coming. When we let vegetables like peas, beans, cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes stay on the plant longer than needful, they start to over-ripen in an effort to produce viable seed, signalling the plant that producing time is over. They’ll stop producing more fruit, and focus on going to seed.
We sabotage our garden’s quality and quantity by not constantly harvesting throughout the entire growing season.
Picking cucumbers every few days as they ripen will keep the plant producing. You’ll have some to enjoy today, some to give away, and some to put up for winter for several weeks. Same with tomatoes: freshly sliced on toasted sourdough bread, in your garden salad of course, fresh bruschetta on fresh sourdough, fresh salsa, roasted pasta sauce, – enough to eat fresh, enough to share and enough to put up for winter.
STORE WHAT YOU EAT AND EAT WHAT YOU STORE
Preserving means NO WASTE, and extending the season – but never at the expense of eating IN the season. We really can have plenty of both, ironically by picking more. And there are several different ways to preserve, some more suitable than others, each with it’s own advantages, disadvantages and optimum shelf life. Not all methods are suitable for all produce. Be open-minded and employ a variety of methods to take advantage of the best options. When you eat what you store, you will have greater success in keeping your food properly rotated. This is what is meant by Food ROTATION.
front and centre you can see two tomatoes that suffered from irregular watering
When harvesting, be GENTLE. All fruits and vegetables are easily bruised and damaged; that damage will affect how long they’ll last. Use injured produce immediately, and the less severely injured ones as soon as possible. Go through your stored vegetables frequently, discarding all that are showing signs of spoilage.
COLD STORAGE Choose the coolest area in your house or garage that is clean with no risk of freezing. Do everything you can to keep it cool: lowest level if you’ve got a basement, no windows, outside walls if possible, no carpet, no heating vents, and dark. Vegetables like potatoes and onions will last for months, beets for a couple weeks at best. If you have a very cold room, you may even be able to keep carrots packed in CLEAN sand for an additional month or two, and possibly even cabbage short-term if it’s cool enough. COLD STORAGE is a temporary short-term storage method, extending the season another month or two or three – the key being to EAT it, don’t leave it there for months. Rotation is important. Most modern homes are not built for cold storage.
2. REFRIGERATION Room is always an issue in any fridge and over packing your fridge reduces its effectiveness to keep everything at a consistently cold enough but not too cold temperature. Additional fridges have additional costs involved in running them. It is an excellent, though temporary, short term storage method. Count your time in weeks at best. Eat your food storage to keep it rotated.
Refrigeration and Freezing are 100% dependent on electricity. For this reason, I don’t consider anything in either one part of my food storage. They are for convenience only, and let’s face it – freezers are mighty convenient. But if you lose power, you’ve lost a LOTTA food. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket – in the fridge or freezer basket.
3. FREEZING Again room is an issue, and leaving foods too long in the freezer is a common problem. Rotate your frozen food, 1st-in 1st-out. Short to medium short-term storage when properly prepared, packed and labelled. Freezing retains approximately 60% nutrition IF prepared properly and frozen quickly after harvesting. Recommended shelf life of frozen food is 4 months to 1 year, depending on what it is. And yes, I know your mom has food in her freezer from 3 years ago. Again, the recommended shelf life is 4 months to 1 year.
4. CANNING Two methods of canning: using a hot water bath with boiling water reaching 212 degrees F, and a pressure canner, which uses steam and pressure to reach up to 250 degrees F. Hot Water Bath canning is for high acid fruits. I always add lemon juice or vinegar – depending on the flavour it’s going to give the fruit. For instance, to a quart jar its recommended to add 2 Tablespoons lemon juice or double that for vinegar.
5. JAMS, JELLIES AND SYRUPS I always process these lovelies in a hot water canner. It is possible to freeze jams but I choose not to. Freezing always seems to require more sugar, and freezer space is a premium in my house. 3 for directions on how to make your own jam click HERE
5. DEHYDRATING is one of the oldest ways to preserve foods, keeping them safe to eat and maintaining reasonable nutrition. Estimates are that up to 80% of original food value is preserved. Times to dehydrate range from 1-2 hours to 24+ hours, depending on what you’re drying. Pay particular attention to ensure there is no remaining moisture in individual pieces.
Do NOT dehydrate high fat foods such as avocados, olives or nut butters, or dairy as the risk of food poisoning is too high. I personally do not dehydrate any kind of protein either.
For optimum storage keep in a cool, dry, dark place at temperatures below 60 degrees F or 15 degrees C. Dried foods should be good for up to 12 months depending on storage conditions. Vacuum sealing dehydrated fruits, vegetables and herbs will extend the shelf life for up to 10 years. The vacuum seal prevents oxygen from entering.
6. PICKLING OR FERMENTING While I have pickled various vegetables over the year: cucumbers, beets and carrots, it seems our family are not big pickle fans so I haven’t kept it up.
We are however, big SAUERKRAUT fans. I like to make a batch of sauerkraut in the late fall – November for the winter.
7. FREEZE DRYING Freeze drying is a relatively new option in home preserving. Commercially, its been on the market for 40+ years, but quality was a little hard to find. Since the year 2000 it became increasingly more available for purchase, but as with most things, the quality varied greatly.
The process is two step: Step 1 is to FREEZE, and step 2 is to remove all remaining moisture WITHOUT thawing. The key to the highest nutritional quality is – how fast can one get it from field to freezer? and how fast can one freeze it? When freeze drying at home, you must have sufficient freezer space to freeze your food in a flat surface layer so that once frozen, the food can be transferred to the freeze dryer. Everything will take different times, but to give you an idea of what to expect, blueberries will take approximately 30-40 hours to completely dry. Because blueberries (and other berries like them) have a protective skin on them, each berry must be punctured. If you don’t do that, the outer skin will dry, sealing in the moisture – exactly what you don’t want! Once they’re completely finished it is imperative that you get them sealed in an oxygen free storage container as soon as possible because they will begin absorbing moisture from the air.
Commercially, the process is the same: Freeze, and remove all remaining moisture without thawing, through a vacuum like process called sublimation. There are many companies that freeze dry, and I have noticed that not all are the same in their commitment to quality. Again, like for home freeze drying, the key to quality is – how fast can one get it from field to freezer? Over the years, I have tried many different brands of commercially freeze dried food, and finally settled on THRIVE LIFE as my brand of choice. There were several reasons for this – all of them relating to their unwavering commitment to quality. Sadly, in 2025 Thrive Life ceased selling to individual households. So the search for quality began again.
Last fall, I found WISE HARVEST Freeze dried food. Based in Utah, they process their own food, so they’re in charge of their own selection, quality and process. They are currently packaging in high quality mylar bags which allow for a shelf life of 5-8 years, and have about 20 items in their inventory. I have tried everything they sell and I am impressed with the quality. It is definitely a company I will be keeping track of as they grow and develop. Incidentally, they ship everything FREE once the order tops $100 – even into Canada. And their prices are both in American or Canadian dollars.
Do I freeze dry my own produce? Not at this time, but I am always considering it.
Why not? I have reflected on doing so many times over the years, and have several friends who have taken the step into freeze-drying their own food. I’d be lying if I said I haven’t been tempted to buy a freeze dryer, and looked a few times very seriously. After all, it is completely cohesive with the way I do things. But the thing that holds me back from this very expensive system, is the fact that I do not believe I can DO better or provide a better end product than what I can buy already freeze dried. In all other methods of preserving, I believe I provide a cleaner and more nutritious end product: canning, freezing and dehydrating. But not when it comes to freeze drying? Not yet. Not as long as there is a good, affordable source providing the quality and variety I cannot match.
Some hard facts to consider: * Living in central Alberta, most produce available for purchase has travelled long distances and is several days from harvest by the time it reaches our grocery store shelves. This means tremendous loss of nutrition. * Living in urban central Alberta, the variety and quantity of food I grow is restricted by my weather. Some of the food my family would like to eat freeze dried are things I cannot grow: bananas, mangoes, pineapple, etc. I feel that if I must buy the food I am going to freeze dry, I might as well buy it already freeze dried – in the end, I am looking for the highest quality.
Currently, of the variety and quantity of food I grow in central Alberta, that are suitable to be freeze-dried, I just don’t think I can justify the cost. One also needs to consider the additional cost of dedicated freezer space (the 1st step of the process). It’s a personal choice, and I totally understand those who go that route. It’s just not my route quite yet.
– Preserving your ABC’s –
Apples
A late summer favourite in our house, we look forward to the apples. Usually coinciding with the beginning of back-to-school time, our apples are ready, and we begin juicing. September smells like apple juice in our house. If the apples are nice then we make a few apple pies to eat and freeze, apple muffins, apple cookies, apples in our salads, apple sauce, apple fruit leather . . . there is no end to the versatility of apples. If your apples are more tart, its not necessary to add lemon juice, but if they’re more sweet, you might want to add 1 T to a pint (500 ml), 2 T to a quart (1 L).
Cold Storage: YES! the colder the better. Refrigeration: YES. can be stored in the fridge for a month or two Freezing: Yes! Also cut up as if for pie filling, apple sauce and juice Canning: Yes! As apple wedges as if for pie filling, apple sauce and apple juice. Dehydrating: Yes! Sliced reasonably thinly in wedges or rings. Pickling or Fermenting: no Juicing: Yes! Freeze Drying: Yes
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: short term Freezing: Yes. Canning: not really suitable Pickling: yes Dehydrating: No. Texture is not good. Freeze Drying: yes
Beans – green or yellow or purple
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: yes, short term Freezing: Yes. Freeze in whatever meal amount suits your family best. I blanch for two or three minutes then seal into small freezer bags, label and freeze. I find this better suited for our family so that those few of us who like them can enjoy without cooking up to much at a time. Canning: Yes – under pressure. This is my sister’s family’s favourite winter vegetable; consequently she cans dozens of jars every summer. Cooked beans are not a favourite in our house, so I have never canned them. Pickling: Yes. Several different types of pickled beans – open your mind and seek out recipes that appeal to you. Dehydrating: No, not the best. Takes a while to rehydrate and the texture is not very nice.
Beets can be picked pretty much all July and August as you thin out your rows.
Thinning will allow more room for the beets to grow bigger, and they can be left in the garden till cold weather forces your hand.
Beets are best stored unwashed but with excess soil brushed away, in a ‘cold’ dark place – a cold room or the fridge. Unlike onions and potatoes they can be stored in large food grade plastic bags, but are not suitable to long term shelf life in a cold room. Best place is the fridge. For longer storage, either can, freeze or pickle.
Every year, I look forward to BORSCH, the traditional Eastern European later summer soup, and a national dish in Ukraine.5 click HERE to read my post on Borsch including recipe
Cold Storage: short term Refrigeration: yes, in fact they should be stored in the fridge (short term again) Freezing: yes Beets can be frozen with good results. Cook them first. I prefer roasting covered in a hot oven (400 degrees). Keep 1/2 inch or more of their bottom stem to minimize colour bleed, ensuring they stay to their beautiful deep colour. I use a roasting pan, or a casserole dish or even just tin foil – depending on how many you’re doing. Keep them covered. They’ll cook in their own moisture. Or you can boil: cover with water allowing plenty of room in your pot so it doesn’t boil over (big mess). Roasting or boiling, when tender to the fork remove from heat, cool and remove the peel – it will slip off easily in your hands. Slice, cube or grate and package them into freezer bags or containers. Label and freeze. Plan to use before next season for best results. Canning: Can in pint or quart jars – because they are a low acid food they must be processed in a pressure canner. Don’t have a pressure canner? Consider pickling them. This you can process with a hot water bath canner. For maximum nutrition, plan to use within 18 months – 2 years. Dehydrating: Don’t. You won’t like them. Not a good texture. Pickling: yes Freeze Drying: yes
Berries
Cold Storage: NO Refrigeration: Yes Freezing: Yes Canning: No. The texture of berries is too delicate to withstand the heat and time of canning. Dehydrating: No – with reservations. Depends on the berries. It’s helpful to puncture berries with a skin like blueberries, saskatoons, currants, haskaps. Personally, I don’t like any of these delicate berries dried. Strawberries are good dehydrated if they’re not sliced too thin. I don’t like raspberries dried. Too sour, and I don’t like the texture. Jams: Yes Vinegars: Yes
Cabbage
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: yes short term Freezing: We often freeze cabbage in the original head, to break down the texture so as to be better/more pliable to make cabbage rolls. Canning: I never have and have no comment Dehydrating: doesn’t sound good to me Fermenting Cabbage : Sauerkraut. A definite YES! 6 Once your sauerkraut is sufficiently fermented, store in the fridge. Freeze Drying: ? maybe?
to read more about sauerkraut, including how to make it, click HERE
Carrots can be stored in a high humidity COLD storage room.
Gently wash and trim the tops to within a 1/2 inch, and thoroughly dry before storing. Store only whole, unblemished carrots; refrigeration is highly recommended. Place in large plastic, food grade bags with several breathing holes punched through. Line the bag with a layer of paper towel to absorb excess moisture. Check carrots every few weeks to ensure they’re not drying out, but are also not too wet (I know – sigh). If the paper towels get very wet, replace them. Cold Storage: yes, packed in clean sand. Use withing a few months. Refrigeration: yes, you can store them in the fridge for a few months Freezing: no, don’t. Very rubbery. That’s all I have to say about that. Canning: Carrots can be bottles and processed in a pressure canner. As with beets, if you don’t have one, consider pickling. Dehydrating: Yes. Chop small. Best to use in a nice brothy soup to refresh. Don’t use too many, they’re pretty strong and will overpower a dish. Don’t do too many the first year – a little goes a long way. After the first year, you can judge for yourself. Pickling : Yes Freeze Drying: no
Cherries or Sour Cherries
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: yes for the short term Freezing: yes. Pit first or you’ll wish you did. Canning: Yes. I suggest adding 1 T lemon juice to a pint (500 ml) or 2 T to a quart (1 L). Dehydrating: Yes. Pit and cut in half. Freeze Dried: Yes. pit and cut in half, or pit and puncture with pin. Jams: Yes Juicing: Yes, and can combined with apple juice or on its own. Vinegars: Yes
Corn
Corn is best eaten the day it is picked. If needed to pick in advantage, keep as cool as possible and make every effort to use as soon as possible. Suggestion: submerge cobs in ice water right after harvesting, drain and refrigerate with husks on. If the husks have been removed, store in plastic bags, for a few days in the fridge.
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: short-term Freezing: My preferred way to store corn. Once the corn is cooked, (we prefer to grill it on the BBQ), we cut the kernels off with a sharp knife. I gather the kernels in a plastic tub. and gently tossed the corn with me hands. Then I pack in serving sized freezer bags. . Canning: I have canned excess corn before, under pressure in the Pressure Canner. Dehydrating: no, I don’t recommend it Pickling: I’ve seen corn used in salsas which are canned, as well as relishes. Personally, I would pressure can these.
Cucumbers
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: short-term Freezing: nope Canning: nope, not unless you’re canning your pickles Dehydrating: doesn’t sound good Freeze Drying: in small pieces the results are excellent. When home freeze drying I find they don’t stay crisp. It’s tempting to freeze dry in slices, but it seems to work a lot better in dices.
Pickling or Fermenting: A definite YES for pickling.
Garlic – as with onions, you can use garlic immediately from the garden,
but for long term storing, as with onions again, it should be cured. Remove all excess dirt and tie in bundles of about 10-12 heads, hang upside down out of the way and out of the sun. Must be cured – as with onions – it is ready to prep and store when it is dry, brown and crispy. Any remaining moisture will promote spoilage down the road.
With scissors cut off the stock, leaving about a 1 inch piece and also remove the root close to the surface. Small paper bags left open at top are perfectly suited for storing garlic in dry dark cold room. Dehydrating: I have never done it myself but I have several friends who do. Slice and dehydrate in a dehydrator. If you don’t have a dehydrator you can dry on a cookie sheet in your oven at the lowest temperature. If you cannot get your oven below 150 degrees, use a wooden spoon to prop your oven oven slightly. Check often to prevent scorching. Once it is thoroughly dry / crispy, powder in a food processer or coffee grinder. A blender will work but you’ll get a lot of powder. Let it settle before opening the lid.
Garlic Salt: My cousin brought me some garlic salt she made herself and now I am a total convert. So doing this myself when I run out. It’s a super simple process. You control the texture of your garlic salt, leave it chunky, coarse or fine – depends on your desired end use.
1 cup coarse kosher salt (non iodized – don’t use regular table salt) 12-15 cloves fresh garlic peeled. Process in food processer until garlic is finely chopped. Spread over parchment line baking sheet and bake 200 degrees till mixture completely dries out. Expect it to take 45-60 minutes.
Baking it makes it a little clumpy, so after its cooled, either crush it in a mortar and pestle or run through your food processer again, or throw it in your high powered blender if you want a finer texture.
Valiant grapes ready to harvest. End of September.
We’ve grown Valiant Grapes in our backyard for almost 20 years. They look and taste very similar to Concord Grapes that are grown in the Niagara region. They are delicious, nutritious, super easy to grow, and winter hardy – everything that is important to me. They have seeds in them and for that reason, some in my family prefer not to eat them ‘fresh’. That doesn’t bother me one little tiny bit. Grape seeds are so rich in nutrition, that I am highly motivated to ‘like’ them.
Cold Storage: no Refrigeration: yes, short-term. Freezing: Yes. We freeze them for smoothies all winter long. Canning: no Dehydrating: no because they contain pits that are too hard to remove. You won’t like them. Juicing: yes, and then can the juice Jamming: YES!!!
We make GRAPE PIE – as a traditional favourite dessert for Thanksgiving and Christmas.
They make a wonderful sauce to add to yogurt, serve over top ice cream or angel food cake, and they make the best jam in the history of the world!
Herbs
Most of the herbs I grow get dehydrated for winter use. The exceptions are dill weed and chives. Dill weed is too delicate to dry – it loses all that makes it wonderful. So I chop it and freeze it, scraping out of its container with a fork while it’s still frozen to use, then returning to the freezer immediately. Chives are also too delicate to dry – becoming ‘woody’ in my opinion, so I chop and freeze them too.
Small amounts of thin leafed herbs (basil, mint, oregano, parsley, tarragon, thyme) – dry on a clean towel on the table or counter. Larger amounts or thick leaves I put in the dehydrator.
Basil – Pesto Pesto is one of my favourite summer traditions. I used to think it was synonymous with basil and at one time it was, but this is a brave new world we’re living in, and pesto can also come from parsley, radish greens, carrot greens, nasturtiums or any combination thereof, or any other flavour you want to preserve. 7
to learn more about pesto, including recipes click HERE. In the link are several different posts about different ways to make pesto using a variety of herbs. Be creative and have fun experimenting.
Dandelion roots – I wash, chop and dry roast them in the oven at 400F. Store in glass jar away from direct light. 8
Dill– I am generally interested in the green weed. I pick when they’re green and lush throughout mid summer, swish in cool water then put in a salad spinner to take excess water off. Chop with a sharp knife on board and scrape into a freezer container. Label and seal. Freeze. To use, I simple scrape the chopped weed out of its container with a fork while its still frozen and return to the freezer immediately. 9
Horseradish – you can make horseradish sauce or freeze it in clumps. It will lose some of its pungency, so plan to use in 6 months. to read more about horse radish including recipes click HERE
Mint – for tea is foundational, probably the first herb most people dry and then use all winter long. Easy to dry. Easy to use.
Kale
Cold Storage – nope Refrigeration – short term Freezing – Yes. Wash and remove stems. Chop coarsely and blanch in boiling water for 1 minute. Immediately plunge into ice water to stop the cooking and to lock in colour. Once the mass is cooled, strain and let the leaves drain for a few minutes. Pat dry with a cloth, and put them in labelled clean freezer bags, removing as much air as possible. Blanching kale increases the shelf life to 6-9 monts, while raw kale frozen is best eaten within 1–2 months. Canning: nope Dehydrating: This is my personal preference. Easy to do and easy to use later. Two to three hours in the dehydrator depending on how full your racks are, and then pack away in a glass jar. Label, and keep out of direct sunlight.
These jars pictured are 2 quart size. You’d be amazed by how much dehydrated kale is in each of these jars. I use it throughout the winter in many dishes, just scooping out of the jar and adding it to soups, stews, chillies, and sauces of all kinds. Pickling or Fermenting: nope Freeze drying: One of my favourite freeze-dried vegetables.
Onions can be used from the garden as needed all summer long
especially when the bulb starts to round out, but by late summer you’ll notice the tops begin to flop over, giving the signal that the plant has stopped growing. They’re ready to harvest.
Cold Storage: Yes. They need a cool, dry, dark, and well-ventilated spot (a pantry will do) to stay firm for months.
To dig, carefully loosen the soil around your onions with a garden fork, then gently pull them up by their tops. Best to keep the full stem intact until fully dry. If the weather is dry with no danger of frost overnight, lay the plants out in the garden for a day or two to dry out. If the weather is not in your favour, move them to a protected area – perhaps the floor of the garage or a covered porch.
Curing onions is the term used to prepare them for long term storage, and is absolutely necessary. The outer layers dry out, tightening around the bulbs to effectively protect them, keeping the onion firm longer. Its a simple process: make sure they have plenty of air space for circulation – ideally outside but protected from the sun. Either hang or lay out. That’s it. You do you, but take care not to bump or bruise them. And don’t rush this process, drying takes TIME, and properly curing onions means you can enjoy the harvest all winter long. Taking shortcuts will prevent proper curing, and the onion bulbs will turn soft and mushy. Curing onions allows them to be stored at room temperature, so even a kitchen pantry would be sufficient if it was nice and dark.
Onions are sufficiently cured when the necks are completely tight and dry, and the stems contain no moisture. Use scissors to trim the roots to about 1/2 inch, and the leaves to about 1 inch. Like potatoes, onions should be kept cool and dark – with good air circulation. The same kind of containers are suitable. If the onions are exposed to light for any long stretches, they may sprout new green leaves. Use any onions that have been bruised or damaged first, as they will not last as long.
It’s tempting to store onions with potatoes because their needs are similar, but potatoes release moisture as they age, which can encourage onions to develop soft spots, so keep a reasonable distance between them.
Either hang or lay out, you do you, but don’t rush the process. Drying takes TIME
Refrigeration: No. The fridge is too damp, causing them to turn soft and moldy. *note: if you only have a few onions and you think you’ll use them up in a few weeks, don’t worry about curing. Go ahead and put them in your fridge.
Not all onions are intended for long storage. Generally, the milder or (or sweeter) onions are intended for short term use. Stronger (or more pungent) flavoured onions may retain quality for up to a year if cured properly. These are things to consider when selecting the type of onion you want to grow in the spring.
Freezing: Yes, though they will lose their crunch. They are best suited for cooked dishes like soups, stews, sauces, and casseroles. Properly stored, frozen onions last about 3-6 months.
Peel and chop, dice, or slice onions to the desired size. Spread out on a baking sheet and place flat in the freezer for about 2 hours. This prevents them from freezing into a solid clump. Pack into airtight bags or containers, removing as much air as possible to prevent freezer burn. Use directly from frozen in recipes; no need to thaw.
I’ve seen my dad put on goggles and chop tons of onions by hand for hours so that he could freeze them for ready use. That was enough for me to never want to do the same thing. Generally, I choose not to freeze.
You can also freeze onions precooked to save cooking time later.
Canning: No Dehydrating: Yes, but you might want to take the dehydrator outside to do it. The smell lingering in the house for days is not appealing. Pickling: Yes Freeze drying: Yes! I don’t freeze-dry onions myself – I prefer the quality of what I have purchased. They are super easy to use, and do not need to be refreshed. One can use them in fresh salsas, chicken or egg salads, or in any other way.
Parsnips – same as carrots.
Peas
Cold Storage: nope Refrigeration: short-term Freezing: Yes. To freeze fresh peas, shell and wash them, then blanch in boiling water for 1.5 to 2 minutes. Immediately plunge into ice water for 2 minutes to stop cooking, drain well, and dry completely. Freeze in a single layer on a tray (flash freeze) before storing in airtight freezer bags for up to 6–12 months Canning: Yes, under pressure Dehydrating: Yes, but . . . . I don’t like them. Pickling: no Freeze Drying: YES! They’re great to snack on, and when they’re refreshed, they taste just like fresh from the garden.
Peppers
Cold Storage: nope Refrigeration: Yes short term. Freezing: Yes. They can be frozen raw and chopped (sliced or diced, seeds removed), no blanching necessary. Freeze on a cookie shett to prevent clumping, then transfer to a labelled freezer bag. Will keep a good 9 -12 months. Canning: Yes, under pressure Freezing: Yes.
Dehydrating: Yes Freeze Drying: Yes
Potatoes
Cold Storage or Refrigeration: Potatoes should never be stored in the fridge, as it converts starch into sugars, changing the texture to a sweet, gritty, unpleasant texture. Cool is good, COLD is not. A nice dark area is necessary as light turns potatoes green. Keep them in a breathable storage container like a cotton or burlap bag, paper bag, basket, or a cardboard or wooden box. Use injured potatoes first – those that may have been damaged with a shovel when harvesting, those with blemishes, those with splits or anything else not perfect. Those injury spots will begin to spoil, so use them first. Continue to go through them from time to time, removing any that look like they are starting to rot. Canning: Yes, under pressure Dehydrating: Yes with reservations. I personally don’t dry them. Freeze Drying: Yes . . . .though I’ve never done so myself. I do however, use commercially freeze-dried potatoes.
Potatoes are easy to store: choose the coolest area you have (NOT the fridge) and keep them in the dark with as much air circulation as possible. No plastic bags or tubs.
Pumpkins and other winter squash
Cold Storage or Refrigeration: Cool, NOT cold. Handle gently, as dents and scrapes will introduce decay. Clean the surface by wiping with cool water in which a capful of bleach has been added. This kills bacteria that will quickly gain a foothold in any injury spots, including cuts when you carve a jack-o-lantern. After it’s been disinfected, dry it thoroughly with a soft cloth before storing it. Keep your pumpkins cool, dry and dark and they’ll reward you by lasting several months. Slight freezing or even too cold will break down the tissue and make the pumpkin soft, but too warm is a problem too. Keep them out of direct sunlight. Best place is in your cold room or garage, as long as it doesn’t freeze. Keep them OFF the cement floor with cardboard, a blanket, wood slats or on a shelf. And try to keep them from touching each other to allow them to breathe.
Freezing: Yes, but the texture gets watery. I don’t care for the final result Canning: Yes, in chunks not puree – and always under pressure Dehydrating: No. Freeze Drying: Yes
Rhubarb – the best friend you never gave the time of day to
Cold Storage: No. Refrigeration: Yes, short-term. Freezing: Yes! Wash, chop, bag and freeze. I use the frozen rhubarb in smoothies for an especially refreshing drink. Canning: Yes! I cold pack macerated rhubarb into pints, using the juice of the rhubarb and sugar as liquid. 10 minutes in a hot water bath. I don’t feel the need to add any lemon juice or vinegar, as it is acidic enough already. We use this to flavour yogurt or to top oatmeal on winter mornings, or for baking.
Jam: Rhubarb is foundational in most of my red summer jams. Dehydrating: Yes, but only as fruit leather. By itself or as a base with strawberries, raspberries, plums, and many other flavour companions. Be creative. Yes you can dry rhubarb in small pieces, but it is not a nice texture or flavour and is hard to find uses for. Freeze Drying: Yessss, although I don’t care for the texture. I guess it depends on what your goals are to use it.
To read more about Rhubarb including recipes, click HERE10
Sorrel and other Greens such as Spinach, Swiss Chard and Amaranth
Cold Storage: No. Refrigeration: Yes, short-term. Freezing: Yes. Lightly blanch and pack into small freezer bags, label and freeze. Canning; nope Dehydrating: nope Freeze Drying: YES
Tomatoes are why I garden
Cold Storage: No. I leave whole tomatoes in my kitchen at room temperature while they’re ripening. I want them close at hand so I can keep an eye on them. We use them daily fresh, but sometimes they ripen a lot at once, so I need to be watching. Refrigeration: No. Cold temperatures stop the ripening process, breaking down cell structure and creating a mealy texture, as well as reducing flavour. But sometimes, if your tomatoes are over ripe, you can refrigerate to buy your some extra time. Best to only use in cooking after they’ve been refrigerated. Freezing: YES! Sometimes if I have too many ripening all at once, I’ll wash and dry them, then place in the freezer to buy me some time. I freeze loose, them pack them frozen in a freezer bag. This is a short term gig, and we’ll use the tomatoes as quickly as we can afterward. Only good for cooking. Canning; YES! I always 2 T vinegar to a pint (500 ml) or up to 4 T to a quart (1 L). Whole, ripe tomatoes are best stored on the counter, but can be refrigerated for 1-2 weeks to prevent spoiling. Cold temperatures (under 55°F/13°C) stop the ripening process, breaking down cell structure to create a mealy texture and reducing flavor compounds. Always bring refrigerated tomatoes to room temperature before eating. Dehydrating: YES! Freeze Drying: YES! but I find the texture very delicate, and that it absorbs moisture from the air very quickly. Not ideal.
to learn more about tomatoes including recipes click HERE
Zucchini is the master of disguise
Cold Storage: Yes, short-term for big ripe zucchini, but not too cold. Refrigeration: Yes, short term for smaller, less mature ones. Canning: Yes, under pressure. Personally, I don’t like the texture. Freezing: Yes, . . . but texture will be watery. For me its a no, unless I shred the zucchini and package in the right amount for zucchini cake. Dehydrating: Yes – my preferred method for long term storage Freeze Drying: YES! but I find the texture gets a little spongy after a while Pickling: No.
Fruit Leather
Fruit leather! Apple leather – rhubarb leather – any kind of fruit leather. Mix it up. Apple Pear. Rhubarb Raspberry. Plum Cherry. Plum Apple, Plum Grape Apple. . . . . Whatever you’ve got on hand that needs to be used up, turn it into a delicious, nutritious snack to grab all winter long.11
to read more about fruit leather including recipes click HERE
Vinegars
Take your favourite flavours from the growing season and use them to flavour vinegars.12
to read more about vinegars including recipes, click HERE
Tips for storing your preserved foods
Don’t just stash your food and forget about it. You’ve done all the work up till now: you’ve grown it, nurtured it, harvested it, preserved it, – now you need to finish the job by keeping it safe, making it accessible and incorporating it into your daily life. EAT IT!
I cannot overstate the importance of STORING WHAT YOU EAT and EATING WHAT YOUR STORE.
In many cases the shelf life of your food will depend on where and how its stored.
Pay attention to the risks : Humidity – Light – Oxygen – Temperature Variations – Pests (insects and mice)
Moisture/Humidity: If dried food picks up moisture molds and bacteria will grow. Moisture can also damage packaging material, and rust jar rings. In areas of high humidity, using moisture absorbers and investing in a dehumidifier is a good idea. Keep everything OFF the floor, especially if the floor is cement.
Light: Direct light, especially sunlight can speed deterioration
Temperature: Optimal temperatures are cool, ranging from a low of 40F (above freezing risk) to maximum of 70F. All food will react badly to heat. Canned food should not be allowed to freeze for the food’s sake but also, freezing will compromise seals. Dehydrated foods can freeze but continual freeze-thaw is detrimental. Even freeze dried food will have its exceptionally long shelf life significantly reduced by heat, and in continuous freeze-thaw conditions.
Pests: Protect your food storage from pests. Moths, ants and mice belong outside but they don’t always stay there, and once they’ve found their way into your food storage – it will be unsafe for you. Glass, food grade plastics and metal are excellent protection but not always practical in every situation. Do the best you can with what you’ve got. Keep food off the ground and off the floor! Aside from being more susceptible to insects, it is also more vulnerable to water damage should that sad event occur.
Preserve Responsibly
KEEP IT CLEAN Pay attention to cleanliness and details like full boiling and timing when canning, full moisture removal when dehydrating, blanching and packaging when freezing. Cleanliness extends to your storage area.
LABEL You think you’ll remember, but you WON’T, and even if you did – you may not be the one who uses it.
USE IT Shop for Dinner from your Food Storage room. Routinely go through your food storage to ensure that seals are still intact, food is still properly packaged, no signs of pests or mould, and to ROTATE it. USE it!
STORE WHAT YOU EAT and EAT WHAT YOU STORE. I know, I know, you’ve seen it before. It is the single most important rule. If you don’t eat what you store, you’ve wasted your time, energy, food and money! Not using what you “put up” is no better than doing nothing with it, because it ends up being the same.
the final word (words)
Eating a nutritious and balanced diet with variety is the best way to protect our health. It gives our bodies the best chance to take care of themselves. That extends into the non growing seasons, those of us who live in northern climates must think about winter, so we store food.
* Storing food properly is the key to protecting ourselves and our families WITH continued good health and FROM foodborne illnesses.
* You cannot always tell when food is unsafe by its appearance, smell or taste. Botulism for instance cannot be seen, smelled or tasted. When in doubt, throw it out!
* Preserving your garden produce is the next-to-final step in the blessings and benefits of growing a garden. It is soul satisfying. The last step of course is to continue to enjoy the produce throughout the winter.
* Everybody has Failures. Failures are the best teachers. Learn from them.
I’d love to hear your tips and suggestions, as well as some of your success stories as well as things you’ve learned from failures.
Warmly,
Cindy Suelzle
Footnotes:
Botulism spores (Clostridium botulinum) are highly resistant to heat and can survive boiling water (212°F / 100°C), but they are destroyed at temperatures of 240°F to 250°F (116°C to 121°C), which are only achievable in a pressure canner. (USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service) ↩︎
Just for fun, I checked some weather history in Edmonton, and in May 2024 we had 8 sunny days!↩︎
