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Black Currants

Black currants are small, dark berries—deep purple to nearly black when ripe. They grow on compact shrubs that naturally spread by ‘layering’: stems that touch the ground, take root and form new plants. Because of this, propagating black currants is wonderfully simple. A cutting or a low-lying branch can easily be encouraged to root and then be transplanted exactly where you want it.

Black currants are native to northern regions—primarily northern Europe and northern Asia, but also parts of Canada—where they thrive in cold and temperate climates. Cultivation began in Russia as early as the 11th century, while western Europe didn’t widely adopt them until the 17th century. Even today, they remain far more common in Europe than in North America, where they are still something of a hidden gem in the garden. (There’s a reason for that. See below.)

An interesting fact about Blackcurrants in North America

Black currants were introduced to North America by English settlers in the Massachusetts Bay Colony in 1629. From there, they were cultivated throughout early settled regions, gaining particular traction in New York. Their natural hardiness—well suited to harsh northern winters—made them an easy and practical choice for growers.

By the late 19th century, New York had become a center of commercial black currant production. However, this success drew concern when the plant was identified as an alternate host for White Pine Blister Rust—a devastating fungus that threatened the economically critical white pine forests.

In 1911, following strong pressure from the lumber industry, the United States enacted a federal ban on black currants. The government prohibited their growing, sale, and transport in an effort to halt the spread of the disease. Federal and state agencies undertook widespread eradication efforts—uprooting bushes and applying chemical treatments—effectively removing black currants from much of the American landscape.

While the United States enforced strict prohibition, Canada took a more measured approach—favouring discouragement and scientific research over a sweeping national ban. Still, the effect was similar. Black currants fell out of favour and were rarely promoted. Though they persisted quietly in rural backyards, they never regained mainstream popularity, instead taking on something of an “underground” status among those who continued to grow them.

In 1935, Canadian researchers launched a dedicated breeding program to find resistance to White Pine Blister Rust in black currants. By crossing traditional varieties with hardy Siberian species, they successfully developed rust-resistant cultivars—‘Coronet,’ ‘Crusader,’ and ‘Consort’—released between 1950 and 1955. These breakthroughs proved that genetic resistance was not only possible, but practical, helping pave the way for modern disease-resistant varieties around the world.

Meanwhile, across Europe—especially in Great Britain—the popularity of black currants continued to grow steadily.

Fifty-five years after the original ban, the United States lifted its federal restrictions in 1966, once it was understood that black currants could be safely grown at a distance from white pines and that reliable rust-resistant varieties were available. Even so, many individual states held onto their own bans until as recently as 2003—nearly a full century after the initial prohibition. That’s a long time to fall out of favour. No wonder so many North Americans are only just discovering them now.

In Canada, black currants never fully disappeared. They quietly endured as a backyard fruit in rural communities for generations and are only now beginning to gain wider recognition. In the United States, commercial production has resumed in regions like the Northeast and Pacific Northwest. Still, it’s estimated that fewer than 1% of North Americans have ever tasted a black currant. (Until recently, I was part of that statistic—LOL.)

As of 2022, the leading producers of black currants are Russia, Poland, and Ukraine—all regions with northern climates well suited to this hardy crop.

Why we should grow them?

Because they are GOOD for you, that’s why.
Black currants are nutritional powerhouses—rich in antioxidants and especially high in anthocyanins, the compounds that give them their deep, dark colour. In fact, they contain significantly more of these beneficial compounds than blueberries. For a fruit with such exceptional nutritional density, they remain one of the most overlooked superfoods in North America.

While black currants are widely enjoyed across Europe, they’re still relatively uncommon here. You likely won’t spot them in a typical grocery store—though you might find them in specialty or high-end markets if you keep your eyes open.

The good news? They’re incredibly easy to grow. Give them a sunny spot, and they more or less take care of themselves. The biggest competition we face is from the birds—they love them just as much as we do. We’ve found that simply tossing a lightweight net over the bushes as the fruit begins to ripen is enough to keep our harvest safe, though.

What do blackcurrants taste like?

Black currants have a flavour all their own—I honestly can’t think of anything quite like them. If I had to describe it, I’d say they’re slightly tart, but not sharply sour. They’ve got a bold, almost sophisticated profile—deep, dark-fruit notes that hint at grape or cherry, with an earthy, almost herbal edge. (LOL… that’s about the best I can do!)

I’ll admit, I wasn’t completely sold when I first tasted them fresh. They were a little… underwhelming. But I’m not usually one to give up, so I made a small batch of jam. Homemade jam is always a good way to make friends. That changed everything.

The flavour deepened somehow. It mellowed. And it came alive in a whole new way. I was absolutely hooked.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Blackcurrants are super nutritious –

Black currants are packed with health-supporting nutrients. They contain a wide range of vitamins—including A, B1, B5, B6, C, and E—which help the body produce energy, regulate hormones, and form red blood cells that carry oxygen throughout the body. They’re also especially beneficial for eye health.

One of their standout features is their vitamin C content. Black currants contain up to four times more vitamin C than oranges—a huge advantage when it comes to supporting overall health. And over ten times more than blueberries. Vitamin C plays a key role in maintaining healthy skin, blood vessels, bones, and cartilage. It strengthens the immune system, protects cells from damage, and helps the body heal wounds.

    All brightly coloured fruits and vegetables contain antioxidants, but those with deep red, blue, or purple colouring—like black currants—are especially rich in a powerful group called anthocyanins. These compounds have been linked to a number of health benefits, including supporting healthy blood pressure, improving vision, strengthening the immune system, and offering anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Black currants contain about twice the anthocyanins of blueberries, making them particularly potent in this regard.

    They may also support gut health. Black currants have been shown to increase levels of beneficial gut bacteria, such as Bifidobacterium, which can aid digestion and help the body defend against infection.

    For an unassuming-looking little berry, Blackcurrants are pretty powerful! Well worth seeking after. Blackcurrants and Hascap berries are considered two of the best natural sources of antioxidants. And they both THRIVE in northern climates! Yay for those of us who live in the north.

    Blackcurrants are easy to incorporate into your diet.

      Cooking can reduce delicate, water-soluble vitamins—especially vitamin C—so that’s something to keep in mind. If maximizing vitamin C is important to you, try to enjoy black currants in ways that don’t involve heat.

      Don’t worry though—there are plenty of delicious options.

      I’m not a big fan of eating black currants straight off the bush, so when I want them “fresh,” I get a little creative:

      • Stir them into yogurt or kefir with a drizzle of honey
      • Blend into smoothies with banana or other berries to mellow the flavour
      • Sprinkle over oatmeal or cold cereal
      • Add to salads for a tart pop of flavour
      • Mash lightly and spoon over toast, pancakes, or waffles
      • Infuse them in water for a refreshing drink

      A little goes a long way—and once you find your favourite way to enjoy them fresh, they become something you look forward to.

      Blackcurrant Crush
      Chop them up in a food processor with a little water to ‘macerate’ them. You can puree them in the blender if you prefer, but I’m a texture girl, and I like something to chew. My daughter, on the other hand, would almost assuredly like them pureed. You do you. You can add them this way to a fresh chia pudding (see below), a serving of plain yogurt, a serving of cottage cheese, or on top of your oatmeal. Since fresh blackcurrants are seasonal and I want to have some on hand all year long, I make quite a bit of this and freeze in two-tablespoon amounts in an ice-cube tray. Once frozen, I transfer to a labelled container and freeze to use later.

      Smoothies
      Wash, stem and freeze whole. Frozen, you can add them to smoothies all year long.

      Juice
      If you have a lotta berries, juice them in a fresh juicer. Lightly sweeten with maple syrup if you like and freeze in ice cube trays. I like to add a ‘cube’ to a tall glass of carbonated water.

      Jam
      There are many health benefits in addition to Vitamin C, so don’t shy away from cooking blackcurrants, in fact, it is the opinion of those who live in our house, that Black Currant Jam is THE Best jam in the world. (see below for recipe)

      other suggestions:

      • Blackcurrant Tea (see below for recipe)
      • Blackcurrant pancakes – add frozen berries to batter just before cooking
      • Blackcurrant muffins or scones – add frozen berries to batter just before cooking
      • Roasted vegetable salad with blackcurrant dressing (see below for recipe)
      • Blackcurrant tarts – mini pies
      • Blackcurrant chia pudding (see below for recipe)
      • Blackcurrant cheese cake (use syrup or jam to top your favourite plain cheese cake)
      • Blackcurrant jam marbled through vanilla ice-cream

      Dehydrate whole blackcurrant berries and store in a glass jar in your cupboard. You can also dry blackcurrant leaves to mix with berries for tea.

      Blackcurrant Tea

      (anything not using real ‘tea’ leaves is really an ‘infusion’)
      Measure 2 tablespoons of dried blackcurrants (per cup) into a tea pot.
      Pour boiling water over top and allow to steep 10 minutes.
      Strain and serve. Sweeten with stevia, maple syrup, honey or sugar if desired.
      You can also add dried blackcurrant leaves to your ‘tea’.
      Or make a single mug if you want. Strain with an infuser.

      Blackcurrant Chia Pudding

      2 cups milk (your favourite: coconut, almond, rice, dairy, etc . . . )
      1/3 cup chia seeds
      Stir well. Add 1-2 Tablespoons maple syrup and stir till dissolved. Cover and set in fridge for at least two hours. I usually do it at night and leave till morning. If the ‘pudding’ is thicker than you’d like, add a little more milk and stir it in. Spoon into serving dish and top with heaping tablespoon of blackcurrant crush (see above).

      Blackcurrant Vinaigrette OR Glaze

      1/2 cup blackcurrant syrup
      1/4 cup blackcurrant juice. If you don’t have it, use another dark juice like cherry or grape. Or substitute with apple juice in a pinch.
      3 Tablespoons dark Balsamic Vinegar
      2 Tablespoons olive oil
      Add all ingredients into a shaker bottle and shake till thoroughly combined.
      OR create a glaze by putting syrup, juice and vinegar into a pan and bring to a slow boil. Omit oil. Allow to bubble gently for 5-10 minutes till it thickens slightly. Remove from heat and leave to cool. Drizzle on top of salad or roasted vegetables.

      TIP: the Blackcurrant Glaze above is a beautiful thing on grilled salmon

      Blackcurrant Jam

      I don’t believe in jam RECIPES. I have never bought a specific amount of fruit to make jam, I use what I have available, and I expect you do too. What is more important is to know HOW to make jam. The method is simple, straight forward and dependable.
      There are only three ingredients:
      fruit – a lone fruit or a combination you think would go nicely together. Adjust depending on what fruit you have on hand.

      sugar – less than you’re used to if you’ve made jam in the past. Sugar is a preservative in its own right, so unless you’re making a small amount that will be used in a few days, it is necessary to use some type of sugar. I generally use a ratio of 1:4 or 1:5 and then judge by taste preference from there.

      Yes, you can use honey, but I highly recommend that you do not, until you are quite experienced and know what to expect.

      pectin – I never buy commercial ‘pectin’, preferring to use a natural source. The type of pectin I choose will depend on the colour and flavour of jam I’m making. For instance, for a dark red or purple jam I’ll often use cranberries. For light-coloured jam I’ll use lemons.

      Cranberries contain a lot of natural pectin. If you’ve ever made fresh cranberry sauce, you likely noticed that, as the sauce ‘sets’ in a very short time with no added ‘pectin’. I used to buy lots of fresh cranberries in the fall when they were in season for Thanksgiving. After making a batch of cranberry sauce, I’d freeze the rest for use during jam-making season. Now I use freeze-dried cranberries that I keep on hand at all times.
      Citrus fruits contain a lot of natural pectin. Lemons, oranges, grapefruits and limes can be used interchangeably depending on the flavour you’re going for. If you’ve ever made marmalade, no doubt you noticed that. My experience has shown however, that lemons are the best source, and they’re always dependable.
      Puree the lemon in a high-power blender. If necessary, add a small amount of water (start with a tablespoon). If your blender doesn’t puree completely, not to worry, a little texture will be great. I cut the lemon into quarters and use the whole thing – peel, pith, pulp, juice and seeds. Did you know there is more vitamin C in the peel than in the inside?
      I use a portion or the whole thing depending on how much jam I’m making. The rest can be stored in the fridge for a week or more.

      If I want to make peach, apricot or pear jam, cranberries aren’t gonna be suitable for pectin, but lemons sure would be. Sometimes it might be the taste of lime you’re looking for. Sometimes it might be the taste of a particular type of orange. Be adventurous. Whatever you use, write it down so you’ll know if you want to repeat it.

      TIP: testing your jam

      Before you start making your jam, put a small dessert plate into the freezer part of your fridge to cool. When you’re ready to start testing, bring the plate out and put a teaspoon of jam on it. Allow the plate to cool the jam. When you’re satisfied that the jam is cool, swipe your finger through it. If the two sides join immediately, it is not ready. Return the plate to the freezer, cook for another 15 minutes and try again.
      When the two sides remain distinct and separate, your jam is ready. You may have to test a couple of times before you’re satisfied with the texture.

      TIP: Turn your jam recipe into a syrup recipe.

      Follow the jam recipe below, but don’t cook as long. After boiling for 20-25 minutes, remove some from pot and store it in a bottle labelled “Syrup”. If you’re making a lot, process them in jars the same as you would jam. See below for link on canning in hot-water-bath. Continue to cook the remaining ‘jam’ as instructed below.
      * You can remove the syrup before or after adding the lemon. Totally flexible.

      Recipe

      However, for the sake of something to start with, here are some suggested amounts and times – my best attempt at a recipe.

      When I made the jam below, I had a couple cups of fresh raspberries looking for a purpose, so I added them. (a great combination bytheway). I ended up with 11 cups of fruit so I adjusted slightly from the picture.
      Just keep in mind to keep your sugar / fruit raitio (approx 4:1 combination 4 parts fruit to 1 part sugar).
      I pureed a whole washed lemon and used 1/4 – 1/3 cup for this amount.

      ingredients:
      11 cups blackcurrants or a blend with raspberries
      3 cups sugar
      1/4 – 1/3 cup lemon puree.

      Blackcurrants are a good source of natural pectin, so they don’t need a lotta help. Note the unripe berries in the picture below. As with most fruit, unripe blackcurrants have more usable pectin than ripe ones, so don’t discard them. They’re a bonus.

      directions:
      1. Add the fruit and sugar to a large stock pot over medium heat. Stir frequently while fruit breaks down and sugar dissolves. You can mash with a potato masher if you want.

      2. Increase heat a bit (NOT HIGH), and bring the jam to a nice low-rolling boil. Boil and stir for about 15 minutes. Add lemon puree. Continue to stir. Taste for sweetness. If you’d like it sweeter, add sugar 1/4 cup at a time. Thoroughly combine and taste test again. Add only small amounts at a time, testing each time till you’re happy with it.

      *hint: blackcurrant jam should not be super sweet. It’s natural tartness is part of its charm.

      3. In another 15 minutes you’ll notice that the jam is beginning to thicken. You’re looking for a texture that slides slowly off a spoon leaving a film behind. Continue to stir while it slowly boils.

      4. Test your jam’s room-temperature texture with a COLD plate. See the TIP above.

      5. Once you’re satisfied with the sweetness and texture, you’re done!

      Now go ahead and enjoy with butter on a fresh piece of bread. Enjoy!
      Or pour into a jar to store in the fridge or freezer. Or process a few jars in a hot water bath. click here for directions on canning jam in a hot-water-bath-canner

      I hope you’ll give blackcurrants a bigger chance at being part of your life.
      Once you get used to each other, I think you’ll become the best of friends, and your world will explode with new tastes and new possibilities.

      For now, you’ll probably have to grow your own as they’re not in any markets that I am aware of yet, but that will change in the foreseeable future. But grow them anyway. You’ll be glad you did. It took me a few years to find ways to use them, but now we’re a serious item, and blackcurrants are as part of my everyday life as hascaps are.

      Warmly,

      Cindy Suelzle

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      Did you know that house plants can help with seasonal depression?  

      Studies show the presence of indoor living greenery helps with depression and anxiety, reducing stress and aiding cognitive function.   Houseplants improve air quality, combatting dry, stagnant indoor air by increasing humidity and filtering pollutants.  They boost mental health, alleviating the winter blues (Seasonal Affective Disorder). 

      How?

      Humidity – Plants release water vapour through their leaves, helping counter dry skin, irritated sinuses, and breathing issues caused by dry indoor heat. 

      Clean Air – Plants remove contaminants and toxins from the air which build up when windows are sealed shut.

      Mood Boost – Taking care of plants is a therapeutic, meditative activity that reduces stress and fatigue.  Studies show that being around plants improves concentration, increases mental energy and boosts productivity. 

      If ever we need the colourful, healthy greens of nature, it would be during the long dark months of winter.   But what if we could add a few colours to those greens? 
      For a gorgeous display of colour, common coleus can’t be beat. Don’t let the word “common” fool you—this vibrant plant can brighten up your room or your summer flower garden simply by being there.

      As a tropical plant, common COLEUS thrives in heat and humidity, but it does not require full sunlight. In fact, whether grown indoors or in the garden, it performs best in bright, indirect light or moderate shade (not deep shade).

      The stunning hues of coleus are the result of how the plant reacts to sunlight. Light enhances certain pigments while reducing others, such as chlorophyll, which explains its rich and diverse colouration. Bright indirect light intensifies its vibrancy, while direct sun can cause fading—and eventually damage.

      Brighten up a shady corner in your living room or your summer flower garden with a colourful coleus.

      listen up people!

      SAD is a great acronym for what it stands for. In addition to the abbreviation, the word is the perfect explanation for what it is – Seasonal Affective Disorder is a recognized type of major depression characterized by a recurrent seasonal pattern – triggered by reduced sunlight, Interventions focus on mimicking natural daylight and building healthy coping mechanisms

      Symptoms typically begin during the late fall or winter months when daylight hours decrease and generally resolve in the spring or summer. triggered by reduced sunlight, interventions focus on mimicking natural daylight and building healthy coping mechanisms

      Common Symptoms

      • Persistent feelings of sadness, anxiety, or hopelessness
      • Low energy and excessive daytime fatigue
      • Increased appetite, cravings for carbohydrates, and associated weight gain
      • Difficulty waking up
      • Loss of interest in normally enjoyable activities and social withdrawal

      Treatments

      • Light: turn on the lights! Some may find specialized lights that mimic natural sunlight helpful in regulating hormones like melatonin and helping to adjust your biological clock and improving brain chemicals linked to mood.
      • Talk: talking to a friend can help modify negative thought patterns. Using a specialized lightbox that mimics natural sunlight to regulate hormones like melatonin. Talking to a person you trust and admire (may even be a therapist) is considered highly effective and often provides longer-lasting results than light therapy or medication.
      • Lifestyle Changes: Get OUT of the house. Go for a walk. Challenge yourself to smile and say hello to every person you pass. Get your heart pumping, add more fruits and vegetables to your day. Consider taking a Vitamin D supplement. Maximize natural light exposure.
      • Serve: Take care of a living thing: like a houseplant or a puppy. Or your family. Or help a friend. Get lost in the care of someone else for a time – who may also be experiencing the same thing. Charitable service always helps.

      And get yourself a few houseplants!

      Warmly,

      Cindy

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      Lambs Quarters

      Like many weeds, lambs quarters self seeds, so they are up and established weeks before your regular garden. Also called goose foot  – lambs quarters is a relative of spinach and quinoa. Sometimes known as wild spinach, and considered a weed in most gardens, it deserves more credit than it usually gets. Highly nutritious, tasting similar to spinach but more tender, rich in Vitamins A, C and E, essential fatty acids, iron, calcium, minerals and antioxidants.

      Name:
      I always thought the name was curious and so odd. Apparently, it comes from “Lammas quarter“, an old English harvest festival celebrating the first grain harvest at the beginning of August. Lammas means “loaf mass” in Old English, originating from two words meaning bread and festival. It seems the name evolved from “Lammas” to “lamb’s” over time. It may have had nothing to do with ‘lambs’ except that it likely was a field green they liked to eat. Certainly, it was an abundant green that people liked to eat as well.

      Identifying:
      I’ve heard many people call it pigweed, and fair enough they look similar. Sometimes pigweed is simply an easy name to call all sorts of weeds that look similar and are often given to pigs, but more precisely both lambs quarters and pigweed are in the amaranth family. That may not help much, because there are officially 42 types of amaranth in North America. For the record, red rooted amaranth IS red rooted pigweed.

      Leaves: Young leaves are often opposite and become alternate as the plant matures. They are triangular to diamond-shaped, sometimes resembling a goose foot (often called Goosefoot).
      Powdery Coating: The most distinctive feature is a whitish, dusty powder on new growth and the underside of leaves.
      Stems: They are succulent, hairless, and frequently have reddish, purple, or light green lengthwise stripes.
      Flowers: Small, grey-green, roundish flowers grow in tight clusters at the top of the stalk or in leaf axils.
      Size: Generally grows 2 to 3 feet tall but can reach up to 6 feet.
      Edible Parts: All parts are edible and nutritious, but the best-tasting and easiest to eat are the young leaves. Once the plant matures, energy goes into flowering, seeding and growing taller so the seeds can be more widely dispersed.
      Location: Grows best in full sun to partially sunny areas, including gardens, roadsides, fields, and disturbed soil.
      Growing Season: Germinates early in the season, with peak growth in late spring to early summer. After that, it begins going to seed, with less energy devoted to the leaves – but no matter, it’s filled its job of providing us with early greens, and it can step into the background while other garden greens become the focus.

      What if nature gave you a FREE vegetable that is super nutritious, cold-hardy, and fed you while you waited for the rest of your garden to produce?
      Oh Wait! It did!

      Surely you recognize lambs quarters as a common weed in your garden. I did, and I was trained to look at all weeds as the enemy and to get rid of them. At the same time, I was a big fan of spinach, but when the spring weather warmed up, spinach would bolt – which means that a plant prematurely produces a flowering stem and goes to seed. This usually happens as a result of heat or stress. The plant takes its cues from hotter, longer, rainless days, and goes into the next phase of its life. It stops producing edible leaves or roots to focus energy on reproduction. Bolting commonly affects lettuce, chard, spinach, cilantro, broccoli and onions. It is irreversible, but you can break off the stem to buy yourself a few more days, and harvest all you can while you still can.

      *tip: to prevent bolting, plant the affected plants earlier in the season when the weather is still cool, provide shade during heatwaves and keep the plants well watered.

      This would be a big frustration to me. Had I understood that spinach should be planted much earlier, (at least a month earlier) when the spring was still cold, I would have been less frustrated. At the same time, while I was mourning the loss of spinach, I noticed lambs quarters in my garden living its best life. It seemed to be snubbing its nose at me – this incorrigible WEED. I also noticed that it tasted good (yes I tasted it). One day the light went on so-to-speak. “Why am I knocking my head against a brick wall trying to grow spinach, when this weed that tastes so much like it, WANTS TO GROW? Why am I ripping it out and feeling sorry for myself because my spinach hates me?” My story changed that day.

      I looked into Lambs Quarters, and discovered it had much to offer a gardener with an open mind. I opened my mind.

      Lambs Quarters in the Kitchen

      * tip: Like spinach, beet greens, swiss chard and most other greens lambs quarters contains some oxalic acid which, when eaten raw in large quantities, can inhibit calcium absorption.
      These plants are so loaded with calcium, however, that the amount of calcium not absorbed due to oxalic acid is minimized. Its a good idea to rotate your ‘greens’ for that reason anyway. Variety is always a good thing. Individuals with kidney issues, gout or arthritis – know that oxalic acid should be consumed in moderation.

      Lambs Quarters is highly nutritious, with a taste similar to spinach, and is often used in salads, sautéed, or blanched. The black seeds are edible and are an excellent source of vegetable protein.

      early spring green garden salad with a base of romaine and some marigold sprinkled on top. Use a nice mild vinaigrette dressing.

      The underside of Lamb’s Quarters’ leaves and the top of the new leaves are covered in a fine whitish or pinkish ‘dust’. Resist the temptation to wash it off, as it is full of calcium and protein.  Lambs quarters contains more protein than kale, more iron than spinach, and it WANTS to grow in your garden. You don’t even need to plant it; it is so comfortable that it invites itself to the party. You’ve gotta respect that quality.

      The stems and leaves can be eaten raw, steamed, or sautéed; used in any way and in any recipe calling for spinach: scrambled eggs, omelets, fresh as a green in sandwiches, in a mixed green salad, or in a green breakfast smoothie. Add some to your next spaghetti sauce, soup, or fried rice. Use them in your favourite “spinach dip”.

      wash well as it can be gritty

      recipe:
      Korean Lambs Quarters Side Dish

      Serves 2-4
      10 oz lambs quarters (300 g) young leaves and stems
      3 tablespoons doenjang (soybean paste)
      1 tablespoon gochujang (hot pepper paste)
      2 garlic cloves minced
      1 green onion chopped
      1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
      1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
      Directions
      1. Boil 3 quarts of water. Blanch the lamb’s quarters for about 1 to 2 minutes, until the leaves are tender.
      2. Strain and rinse them in cold water a couple of times to stop them from cooking and to remove any grit.
      3. Strain and squeeze out any excess water. If the leaves and stems are too long, cut them a few times into bite-sized pieces.
      4. Put them into a mixing bowl and add soybean paste, hot pepper paste, garlic, green onion, and toasted sesame oil.
      5. Mix by hand until all the leaves are well coated with the seasonings, and have absorbed them. You can wear disposable plastic gloves if you want.
      6. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and transfer to a serving plate.

      Serve as a side dish to rice. Toss in or garnish with sundried tomatoes if desired. 

      When I am in my garden, I will often pick the tender new plants and eat them while I work. I never pull them to get rid of them. They’re much too valuable for that, I just break them off, hoping they’ll come back and offer more. I’ll throw them into early season salads, and combine with other greens that I steam, including our favourite: spanakopita.1 (read more about Spanakopita here)

      Back to that nasty rumour about lambs quarters being considered a ‘common weed’.
      It’s true. Officially. But don’t listen to that sorta ridicule. Those other plants are just jealous.
      Who cares what people call it? “Weed” is just a word. Don’t be unkind or avoid eating it. It’s not it’s fault that some uneducated person gave it such a rude nickname.

      5 Facts:
      1. Lambs quarters is cold-hardy, and heat-tolerant. That’s quite a talent.
      2. Because it self-seeds, it will grow before any of your cultivated greens have even germinated.
      3. It WANTS to grow in your garden. It WANTS to be your friend. And it’s FREE.
      4. It is a versatile, nutrient-dense substitute for spinach or chard in nearly any recipe.
      5. It deserves to be accepted on its own merit, not indiscriminately discarded because of some misunderstanding carried over from a previous generation.

      Here’s to Lambs Quarters!
      Enjoy it.

      Warmly,

      Cindy Suelzle

      1. link to my recipe for SPANAKOPITA https://backyardcityhomestead.com/2025/08/21/homemade-greek-spanakopita/ ↩︎

      Posted on

      Soil vs Dirt: Enhancing Soil Quality

      Healthy soil produces healthy, strong plants. It’s simple math.
      It contains optimal nutrition – rich in microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, and earthworms) that break down organic matter into nutrients that plants can easily absorb.
      Healthy soil builds immunity in plants, making them naturally more disease and pest-resistant.
      It provides essential air pockets for roots to breathe and grow strong (proper aeration).
      Healthy, nutritious soil results in healthy, nutritious vegetables.

      What is the difference between SOIL and DIRT?
      Soil is a complex ecosystem that supports plant life. Dirt is material that cannot support plant growth. Sometimes we get frustrated and feel that the universe is against us because our ground is full of weeds. We think there’s something wrong with it. Your soil doesn’t know the difference between a dandelion and broccoli. In many cases, weeds indicate that your soil is healthy and nutritious. It’s either a healthy place to grow or it’s not. If it grows healthy weeds, it will grow healthy vegetables. So relax, take a chill pill. If your new backyard, which looked so beautiful when you bought the house last summer, is full of weeds this spring, it’s not a conspiracy. Your soil is healthy. You just need to roll up your sleeves and get to work. But that’s another sermon for another time. The point is: when you don’t have any weeds, just nice clean empty ‘dirt’, you should be worried.

      There is much we can do to continually improve the quality of soil in our home gardens.

      How

      ADDING ORGANIC MATTER by incorporating compost into the planting area, and using mulch all around the planting area not only enhances soil structure but also improves moisture retention and nutrient availability.

      REDUCING TILLAGE! A long-term no-till commitment boosts microbial activity, improving soil health. Every time we dig up our soil, we destroy colonies of tiny organisms and critters trying to set up housekeeping. They are not the enemy. They are an important part of the soil ecosystem and critical to healthy soil. In addition, a no-till, mulched method of gardening reduces evaporation, addressing the problem of soil thirst. No more water wasted. Moisture passes through the mulch, where it is absorbed into the soil while being protected from evaporation.

      AVOID THE SUNBURN OF BARE SOIL
      There should be no bare soil in your garden. Not in the rows where the plants are growing, not in the spaces between the rows, not in the walking paths. Protect your soil from being sunburned.

      Seriously? Soil can get sunburnt?
      YES! As important as the sun is to life in general and to garden growth, it can harm the very soil in which our plants, which are completely dependent on it, grow. I know it seems like an oxymoron, but soil really does get sunburned. It’s the leaves that need the sun – they are the plant’s vital organs, primarily responsible for producing food through photosynthesis, utilizing sunlight, carbon dioxide and water to create energy. They also facilitate gas exchange (breathing), release excess water through transpiration, and can be specialized for storage or protection.

      HOW TO PREVENT SUNBURNED SOIL

      1. MULCH
      Cover soil with organic mulch like straw, shredded leaves, small wood chips, etc. – but not a combination of these methods. Pick one and stick to it. Mulch creates a barrier (like sunscreen or light clothing for us), that keeps the soil cooler and locks in moisture. I use straw, dry grass clipping, chopped leaves and wood chips, but never together.

      * note the straw mulch still in place from last summer, protecting and feeding the soil

      Wood chips take longer to break down, so they’re best used in paths. I use lots of it. They are so chunky and loose that they don’t compact down quickly, and are easy to walk on, keeping your weight centred in the paths and away from the delicate root growth area of your plants. Rain water goes right through the wood chips, seeping into the softer rows on either side of the paths.

      MULCH prevents MOISTURE LOSS.
      High heat causes rapid evaporation, drying out the soil and depriving plant roots of desperately needed water.

      MULCH prevents NUTRIENT DEGRADATION.
      Intense sunlight and heat can degrade essential nutrients, making the soil less effective for plant growth and health.

      MULCH prevents MICROBE DESTRUCTION.
      Extreme surface temperature can kill beneficial micro organisms and fungi that are living in the soil and are essential for plant growth and health.

      MULCH prevents CRUSTING.
      Crusting is when the top layer of soil becomes excessively dry, hard and cracked, reducing it’s ability to absorb and retain water.

      The rows in my community garden plot are higher than the paths, and they never get stepped on, so the soil doesn’t get packed down. In it I use straw mulch in the rows around my plants. In my backyard garden – space and sun are at a premium, my plants are close together, mostly in raised beds, so we chop up our straw (with the lawn mower) so it’s easier to spread into small areas. I try to pile the straw no less than three inches deep, providing serious protection from the sun, additional nutrients as it breaks down, and keeping the soil moist.

      2. COMPOST
      Apply generous amounts of good, clean compost into the rows where you expect to seed. Pat the seeds into it. This will give the seedlings or starter plants, much needed nutrition, in their early life.

      3. WATER DEEPLY
      Watering deeply and early in the day reduces evaporation and allows water to penetrate deeply, instead of only wetting the surface. The straw mulch protects the moisture from evaporating quickly.

      Always water near to the ground, avoiding drenching the leaves. Less of the water will be wasted this way, going directly where it’s needed most.

      4. Use GROUND COVER PLANTS when appropriate
      If you don’t have enough mulch, it may be helpful to use low growing plants like thyme in an herb garden, and chickweed in a vegetable garden. These offer shade for the soil, keeping it cool. They are both edible, delicious and nutritious, so clip often and bring them into the kitchen.

      Keeping your soil healthy is crucial because it is a living ecosystem that is the foundation for all plant, animal, and human life. Healthy soil provides nutrients to plants, filters water, and stores carbon. Unhealthy soil is merely dirt.

      Warmly,

      Cindy Suelzle

      Posted on

      SPINACH: not just for Popeye

      Growing, Eating and Preserving

      Did you know that you can plant spinach outside while there is still snow on the ground?
      In my world (central Alberta), that generally means mid April. In fact, the best time to plant spinach outside was yesterday; the next best time is tomorrow.  Spinach THRIVES in Edmonton’s cool spring.  1st Spring, 2nd Spring, False Spring, Spring around the corner …. You name it, in the spring, spinach is your best friend.  But when the weather gets hot, it’s done.  It’ll bolt (go to seed) in a heartbeat.

      Did you know that 100% of the vitamin C in “fresh” spinach is gone within 4 days of harvest?  I can pretty much guarantee that the spinach we buy from the produce department of our local grocery stores was not harvested within the last 96 hours.  And even if it was – are we really going to use it within hours of buying it? 

      I confess that when I learned that sad fact, it took the appeal out of so-called “fresh” (store-bought) spinach for me.  But I love fresh spinach, in fact, I’m a huge advocate of it. I just want to make sure it’s FRESH.  Only one way to do that, and that is to grow it myself.   So, that is what I do.

      WHEN?

      The secret to growing great spinach is to remember that it likes cool weather.  In central Alberta, if we plant it later in May, when we plant the rest of our garden, it’s just getting going by the time the days and nights are pretty warm.  This may be good for you and me, but it’s not so good for spinach.  Keep it cold.  That means – APRIL planting!  As soon as the sun has melted the snow in your predetermined spot and the soil is workable, get out there and plant your seeds. Four to six weeks BEFORE the last frost expected, typically anytime after the beginning of April to EARLY May.  It’s okay if there is snow still around, and it’s okay if it snows right on top of your seeded area, even on top of your newly sprouted spinach plants.  Spinach laughs at spring snows. 

      When you’re feeling sorry for yourself because the days are still cooler than you’d like, remind yourself THIS IS GOOD SPINACH WEATHER.  Get OUT THERE and plant some! 

      WHERE? 

      Choose and area that receives lots of bright sunlight – 6-8 hours a day.  Partial afternoon shade is alright. 

      in WHAT?

      Spinach loves a rich, well-draining soil – with plenty of regular compost enhancement.  Raised beds are perfect. 
      The last thing your spinach seeds want is to sit in a soggy spring puddle of melted snow. 

      If you’re in a small space with little or no soil, no worries. Even a small balcony or patio space will help.  Good size containers at least 12-18 inches across and at least 6-8 inches deep can easily hold 4 or 5 spinach plants.  Galvanized pails, plastic pots, terracotta planters or fabric bags will all be comfortable homes as long as their drainage is good. 

      HOW?

      Direct sow.  If you’re in the country and have a big garden, go ahead and plant in rows 10 inches apart.  I am in the city, and my growing space is considerably less; typically, my rows are 6 inches apart.  For spinach, however, I usually just broadcast the seed in my growing area and let them grow up in a loose spinach forest.  Cover with no more than ½ inch of soil. 

      Keep your seeds well-watered until they germinate, which usually takes less than a week, but can take a little longer in cooler temperatures or if you’re growing certain spinach varieties. Once your seedlings develop their first true leaves, you can start thinking about thinning your plants out so each plant is spaced about 6” from its neighbour. 

      Spinach enjoys regular and consistent watering and will sulk if it gets too dry.  Water when the top inch is dry to the touch.  Best to water at the bases and keep the leaves as dry as possible. Mulching with a few inches of organic mulch can slow evaporation and reduce the need to water.  *I use chopped straw, but you can also use chopped leaves. Don’t use them both at the same time – best to do one or the other.

      Since I don’t grow spinach once the weather starts to get hot, it’s a relatively short season.  I don’t feel the need to fertilize as I top up my growing areas with compost every spring, and the breakdown of the mulch keeps the area well nourished.  Keep your spinach patch well weeded – but again, if you’re mulching, that keeps the weeds at bay.  Mulch will also help prevent issues like mildew because it keeps the moisture off the leaves. 

      Once the spinach is ready to start thinning, make sure you’re harvesting regularly. There is no reason you cannot have fresh spinach on the table every other day until the weather gets too warm and it begins to bolt.  By continuing to harvest, you’ll be paying attention to your plants, continuously checking for weeds, pests or drought.  General garden care is all they need.  dryness.  Once they begin to bolt, read the writing on the wall and let them go.  You can now plant that same area with lettuce or flowers, or even some nice herbs like basil that will appreciate the summer heat. 

      WHY eat spinach? And why plant it in your garden?

      Why should you want to plant spinach? Because it’s good for you, that’s why. 
      And because spinach is the segway between winter and spring.  It’s the first garden vegetable you’ll be harvesting.  By the time they start to complain about the warm weather, you’ve got lettuce growing and amaranth and other leafy greens fully present and doing beautifully. 

      Spinach is a nutrient-dense leafy green that boosts eye health, lowers blood pressure, supports heart health and aids digestion. Packed with vitamins A, C, K, folate, fibre and iron.  It helps protect your immune system, reduces inflammation and strengthens bones. 

      As a rich source of vitamin C, spinach is wonderful served fresh in a salad.  But lightly cooking (which harms the vitamin C of course), increases the availability of other nutrients like iron, calcium and vitamin A.  So use it a lot, in many different ways.  Pairing it with healthy fats like olive oil or avocado oil improves the absorption of nutrients.  

      To harvest:
      I begin harvesting by gently pulling baby plants that are too close together.  When they get a little bigger (about 3 or 4 weeks old), I start pinching off some of the larger leaves. By the time the plants are fully mature (6 to 8 weeks) they’ll begin to form a rosette shape in the center of the plant.  You can continue to pinch off the bigger leaves, including a center stalk that might sprout up (its starting to bolt).  Then you can pull the whole plant out. 

      To use:
      Fruits and vegetables begin to deteriorate within the first hour of harvest – in every way, including nutrition.  Nutrient content rapidly declines right after picking, so snip off as much as you plan to use.  Store anything you don’t eat in the fridge, but eat it as soon as possible.  Make sure you’ve shaken all moisture from rinsing it off, and pat dry.  Wrap in a paper towel and place in an air tight container. 

      To preserve:

      Freezing:
      If you need to pick more than you can use, you can always freeze it.  Before freezing, blanch or steam for two minutes in or over a pot of boiling water. Strain immediately and plunge the hot spinach into ice water to stop the cooking.  Once cool, strain again, and squeeze as much moisture out as you can.  You can press the brightly coloured steamed spinach into silicone muffin pans (holds about 1 cup) or silicone ice cube trays that hold ¼ cup.  Lay on the level in your freezer for at least 4 hours. Once they have frozen, you can remove them from the trays and pop them into labelled plastic bags or containers.  This makes the spinach easily accessible to throw into soups, or to lightly chop and throw into stir-fried vegetables, scrambled eggs or omelettes.  Freezing is my preferred way to preserve whatever excess spinach I might have.

      Canned Spinach: WHY?
      Of all the ways to preserve spinach, this would be the least healthy. Yes its convenient, but “how can it possibly taste good?” says the person who admittedly has no recollection of ever having tasted it. My dad used to buy canned spinach when I was a young child. Must have been some fond childhood memory of his. I remember him opening the can and eating it straight outta the can with a fork. Only once was it sufficiently compelling to me that I asked for a taste. Though I cannot remember what it tasted like, I do recall being profoundly disappointed, and I recall that I didn’t ask for another. Ever. When I was a child, there was no ‘fresh’ spinach on the grocery store shelves, and no frozen spinach either. But there was canned. The only other way was to grow it yourself, but I didn’t grow up in a gardening family, and I didn’t even know one could grow food.

      “I’m strong to the finich, cause I eats my spinach. I’m Popeye the Sailor Man.”

      A popular cartoon when I was very young was Popeye the Sailor Man, featuring a pipe-smoking, spinach-eating, unusually physically strong sailor man who always had to fight bad guys. When he was getting beaten, all he had to do was eat a can of spinach, and instantly he was strong as an ox, and no one could beat him. As an adult, I wrongly assumed that he was created as a marketing gimmick to get kids to eat their canned spinach, but I’ve since learned that the spinach came later, as some kind of explanation for his strength. His famous quote: “I’m strong to the “finich”, ’cause I eats me spinach.” Whether it was the original intention or not, the consumption of spinach is reported to have increased by a third after Popeye started eating canned spinach on TV in the 60’s. It certainly was enticing to me as a child, and had fresh or frozen spinach been available to the average household I might have learned to like it. As it was, I was in my twenties the first time I tasted fresh spinach. In a salad. In a restaurant. I was immediately converted, and it became a favourite dish in our house for many years.

      For the record, canned spinach is NOT good for you, neither commercially canned nor home canned. At 70 minutes per pint, 90 minutes per quart under 11 pounds pressure, there is not enough nutrition left in the jar (or can) to justify the salt.

      Freeze Drying:
      Once spinach-season is over, my preferred way to serve spinach to my family is freeze dried. The brand I used to buy was Thrive Life, which was the most nutritious way of eating spinach that didn’t come straight out of one’s own organic garden. The company stopped selling to individual homes in 2025, choosing instead to sell exclusively to big businesses. Huge loss to the public.
      Freeze dried spinach, if processed correctly and immediately after harvest, is the most nutritious, delicious and convenient way to eat spinach all year long. Second only to FRESH out of your backyard garden – of course.

      Any which way you serve it, spinach is a great addition to your garden in the coolness of early spring – aka NOW! 
      It has earned an honoured place in my garden. 

      I’d love to hear your thoughts, and any tips you might have for growing spinach.

      Now go plant some.

      Warmly,

      Cindy

      Posted on

      Our Environmental Stewardship in an Urban Setting

      Whether we live in an urban area, a rural community or remotely, we have an environmental responsibility to each other. John Donne’s assessment, “No man is an island“1 means we are all fundamentally interconnected and cannot thrive or survive in complete isolation. We rely on the support and companionship a community provides. But in the last generation or two, our awareness of the effect we have on our natural environment, both close at hand and globally, has become greater and more realistic. Individually, as a community and as a society, we impact the quality of the world we ALL live in.

      Stewardship essentially means “the job of taking care of“. It implies that we are not “the owner”, but rather, the caretaker; in effect, we are a trustee making conscious, ethical choices and commitments that will benefit far more than simply ourselves and our own families. With that in mind, specifically addressing the environment, stewardship is the responsibility of planning, managing and protecting the resources that influence the world in which we live. It addresses having a voice in the planning and management of those resources. It also means being accountable and trying hard not to be part of the problem. It means on a personal level, doing our part to be part of the solution.

      When we were young parents in the 80’s, Alberta experienced a severe economic downturn. We were so busy taking care of our young children and trying to make ends meet, that we knew little about what was going on in the financial world around us. We knew that mortgage rates were higher than they’d ever been before, but we didn’t know why. We paid 10.5% on our mortgage of a little OLD house we bought in 1975. We knew we loved the small town-ness of Calmar, and the elementary school our kids attended. But we also knew Dan travelled far for employment, and was away long hours. In 1984, Dan was laid off and struggled to find steady work. He took whatever odd jobs he could, but it wasn’t enough to keep up with the house payments. Eventually, we realized that the only real path forward was for Dan to return to school, which meant moving back into the city. Like many Albertans that year, we lost our home.

      We moved into subsidized housing in Edmonton and stepped into a new chapter – a temporary detour from our life plan. Dan began driving bus for Edmonton Transit while attending NAIT full time, working long, exhausting days in pursuit of something better.

      It took a little attitude adjusting to get used to the higher density of our neighbours in a subsidized complex. We (mostly me), missed the small town atmosphere we had become accustomed to in the previous 5 years. But life is full of adjustments, and sometimes we have to bend a little. Though we had little means and worked hard every day, we had enough, and we were happy.

      We planted flowers in our sunny front, as well as strawberries, herbs and pole beans strung to cover our southern window and shade our living room from the heat of the day. We planted vegetables in Dan’s mom’s nearby backyard garden. I came across a quote in those early months that helped me. “Let everyone sweep in front of his own door, and the whole world will be clean.” by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe 2 – an 18th century German “Influencer“. I took it to heart. I understood it to mean that I had a responsibility to make the world a better place simply by caring for and beautifying the areas I have control over – my “front door step” as it were.

      Spencer W. Kimball, another INFLUENCER who influenced me greatly in those early years, was more specific. “Even those residing in apartments or condominiums can generally grow a little food in pots and planters. . . . Make your garden neat and attractive, as well as productive. ”

      With this philosophy in mind, personal environmental stewardship becomes more than an idea—it becomes a responsibility. It rests with each of us to protect and conserve natural resources through the choices we make every day.

      “Doing our part” isn’t just a phrase; it’s a series of small, meaningful actions—conserving water and energy, reducing waste, choosing more sustainable ways to get around, and supporting the health of our local ecosystems. Individually, these efforts may seem modest, but together, they shape the kind of world we leave behind.

      What can WE do at home that will affect the environment?

      Drawing on Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s philosophy, “Let everyone sweep in front of his own door…”, we are reminded that meaningful change begins with personal responsibility. The small, intentional steps we take each day may feel like minor inconveniences, but they matter.

      Individually, they may seem insignificant; collectively, they have the power to create real, lasting change. How many of these action steps listed below are you already employing? Which ones can you improve on? Which ones are you willing to commit to?

      Energy and Water Conservation:

      • Switch to energy-efficient LED light bulbs and energy-efficient appliances.
      • Use a clothesline in warm weather instead of a dryer.
      • Adjust our thermostats for heating and cooling to be more moderate. Put a sweater on, wear slippers.
      • Unplug electronics, computers, and chargers when not in use.
      • Take shorter showers and fix leaky faucets promptly.
      • Mulch in the garden to reduce the need for watering.

      Waste Reduction and Management:

      • Make “Use it up, Wear it Out, Make it Do, or Do Without” your household motto. The chic new way of saying the same thing is: “Reduce, Reuse and Recycle“. Who knew thrift would ever be ‘cool’?
      • Reduce the things your household consumes that include excessive or single-use packaging.
      • Reuse shopping bags, water bottles and other materials. Compost food, garden and yard waste.
      • Recycle when appropriate.

      Sustainable Transportation:

      • Walk, bike, use public transit or carpool when possible, instead of driving.

      Sustainable Food Management:

      • Grow more of your own fruits and vegetables. If this is new to you, LEARN how, by taking classes and attending workshops in your community.
      • If your yard isn’t sufficient, join a community garden.
      • Learn how to preserve what you grow, to extend it into the cold months.
      • Reduce food waste by shopping in your fridge and freezer more and eating out less.
      • Compost kitchen scraps to use as natural soil builders and fertilizers.
      • Volunteer in your community garden, charitable organizations, and food bank.
      • Volunteer with your community league to protect natural areas, create pollinator parks, and encourage urban gardening and habitat restoration.

      We all share a responsibility and an accountability to improve the places we call home. It begins right at our own front door—by caring for what we can see and influence—and then slowly extends outward.

      We may find that our efforts inspire others to do the same, creating a quiet ripple of change. But even if they don’t, that isn’t the point. What matters is staying true to our own conscience, choosing each day not to be part of the problem, but part of the solution.

      Stewardship plays a vital role in shaping sustainable relationships between people and nature—especially in rapidly growing urban landscapes like our own.

      Reach out. Be a good neighbour. Take care of what you can see from your own front door, and then go a little further. Get involved. Volunteer. Support the good things happening around you.

      Make the world a better place simply because you are in it. And above all, find joy in the doing. When you approach it with a willing heart, your attitude begins to shift. You find more reasons to smile, more moments to appreciate—and, in ways you might not expect, life becomes richer for it.

      I’d love to hear your experiences and thoughts.

      Cindy

      1. “No man is an island, entire of itself. Every man is a piece of the continent, a part of the main. If a clod be washed away by the sea, Europe is the less. As well as if a promontory were. As well as if a manor of thy friend’s or if thine own were. Any man’s death diminishes me, because I am involved in mankind. And therefore, never send to know for whom the bell tolls. It tolls for thee.” John Donne ↩︎
      2. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, a German writer and natural philosopher, was born Aug. 28, 1749. Goethe is best known for his literary works, such as The Sorrows of Young Werther (1774) and Faust (1808 and 1832). Goethe also saw himself as a Naturforscher, an investigator of nature. ↩︎
      Posted on

      Haskaps or Honeyberries

      Also known as honey berries, haskaps are blue-purple berries that look similar to a blueberry or a saskatoon, except for their elongated – oblong shape. They are native to the northern boreal forests of the world. In the 1950’s Russia began cultivating them, and by the 1970’s Japan began commercially breeding the fruit. By the early 2000’s, the University of Saskatchewan in Saskatoon joined the party, and began their own research program, introducing haskaps to the prairie region.

      The name Haskap comes from the Japanese name “hasukappu” which means “little present on the end of a branch”. You’ve gotta respect a name like that. It gets straight to the point. As a backyard fruit, Haskaps are gaining popularity fast in western Canada.

      In Canada they are often called honey berries, but don’t let this fool you – they don’t taste like honey. When we first got them, I only knew them by that name, expecting they must taste like honey – else why the name? Trickery! They are actually an edible member of the honeysuckle family – that’s where “honey” part comes from, LOL Once you get over that misconception you can appreciate it for what it IS, not what it isn’t. If you’ve ever tasted a honeysuckle berry, you’ll identify slight hints of that taste.
      Warning: most honeysuckles have poisonous berries, so don’t get any bright ideas about eating THEM.

      The names have become interchangeable. Don’t be confused: HONEY BERRIES and HASKAPS are both referring to the SAME berry.

      berries in June, against the east wall.
      Some of these berries are fully ripe, some are still green.

      In about the year 2010, we planted our first six haskap bushes. I should clarify that it was Dan who brought them home after reading some very compelling information. I hadn’t read the same reports, so I wasn’t much interested at the time. He planted them in one of our raised beds because we didn’t have anything else prepared, and they stayed there for a couple of years—until I banished them from my limited vegetable-growing space.

      By then they had doubled in size and were attractive plants, but they still hadn’t produced any berries.

      The only spot we had available was beside the house on the east side. It was an area that didn’t get much attention—pretty dry and rarely watered. It received the morning sun, but not much past noon. All in all, it was one of the most inhospitable spots in our yard.

      However, a couple of years after transplanting them, we noticed dark blue, oblong berries growing on the bushes. The taste was quite tart, but not unpleasant. Unfortunately, the birds noticed them too.

      That was the beginning of our love affair.

      I am not very patient with plants that are persnickety. I don’t have the time or inclination to fuss over those that don’t want to grow here—those that sulk and pout if they don’t get enough to drink once in a while, or complain about the cold (sissies).

      The way to my heart is through strength of character. And after four years of intermittent care in a less-than-desirable location, our haskaps showed their true colours. They appreciated their new home. They had adapted to their surroundings, like true native plants. They didn’t mind the winters, had no apparent health or insect problems, and required no pruning or special care. In short, they proved themselves stronger than whatever opposing forces might threaten them.

      They wanted to stay. They loved me, and they wanted to be of service. They found my soft spot. If a food producing plant wants ‘that much’ to be my friend, and if the food they offer is nutritious – I’m all in. You could say I converted to haskap-ism.

      The modern name “haskap” translates to “berry of long life and good vision”, also a great name that gets right to the point.

      Gramma Great picking haskap berries the beginning of June.

      While haskaps have grown wild since time immemorial, they only started being scientifically bred and cultivated in the 1950’s – in Siberia (appropriately). Since then, Japan and Canada joined the party, and many commercial varieties popular today were developed right here in our own backyard, at the University of Saskatchewan in Saskatoon – improving size and taste. “U of Sask” is renowned for global leadership in water security and agricultural sciences. Go Riders!

      Why We Should Grow Haskaps

      The Perfect Berry for Northern Gardens

      They are the ultimate superfood, and we don’t have to import them from some tropical climate. They grow right here, in your own backyard!

      🌱 Built for Our Climate

      Haskaps are incredibly hardy—thriving in temperatures as low as Zone 2. Here in Edmonton (Zone 4a), they don’t just survive—they flourish.
      They are ideal for cold-climate farming.

      🌸 Easy to Grow

      Haskaps grow as compact shrubs and require at least two plants for cross-pollination. Once established, they are low-maintenance, need minimal pruning, and can produce fruit for up to 50 years. Haskaps are hardy, healthy, productive, and delicious—an ideal fruit for northern growers and backyard gardeners alike.

      ⏰ Early & Extended Harvest

      Haskaps are among the earliest fruits to ripen, often ready by June. By planting multiple varieties, you can enjoy an extended harvest season.

      💪 A True Superfood

      These berries are nutritional powerhouses – rich in:

      • Vitamins A & C
      • Fiber
      • Potassium
      • Antioxidants
        Haskaps have a higher anthocyanin content than many other berries. Potent antioxidants that help protect eyes from oxidative damage.
        Anthocyanins are associated with enhanced night vision and improved circulation within the retinal capillaries.
        Regular consumption is believed to help fight against age-related macular degeneration and to prevent retinopathy in diabetic patients.

      👀 Unique & Beautiful

      Haskaps are easy to recognize:

      • Oblong shape
      • Deep blue skin (similar to blueberries)
      • Striking crimson interior

      🍇 Bold, Complex Flavour

      Their flavour is unlike any other—often described as a blend of blueberry, raspberry, and black currant, with a tangy, slightly pungent edge that makes them unforgettable. Personally, I’d throw the taste of honeysuckle berries into that mix. And I might add the word “pungent”.

      🍽️ Incredibly Versatile

      Enjoy haskaps:

      • Fresh off the bush
      • In baking (pies, muffins, crisps)
      • As jams, syrups, and sauces
      • Juiced or added to smoothies
      life story of a haskap muffin

      In short, Haskaps are doing everything in their power to earn a place in your yard and on your table.

      the boys picking berries

      * I am told that haskaps require two different varieties that bloom at the same time for pollination. I am not convinced that we have two or more different varieties among our six bushes. I’m pretty sure we didn’t know that when we bought them all those years ago. It seems information has evolved since then. We will buy a couple more plants this spring, and I will do my best to be certain they are different ‘enough’, while blooming at the same time. Even though our berries are growing fine, I am anxious to benefit even more with this new information.

      Growing is an ongoing journey.
      I’ll share my progress here so stay tuned, but in the meantime, I’d love to hear your experience with growing or using Haskaps.

      Warmly,

      Cindy

      Posted on

      the glory of Cabbage

      As a gardener I swore off growing cabbage over three decades before now. I had tried every organic way I read or hear about to control the infamous cabbage worms – with no success. Finding creepy worms in the cabbage we wanted to make into sauerkraut took the joy out of an entire season of growing. I’ll admit I’m squeamish, I don’t like worms – even the good kind. I don’t like bugs other than lady bugs and bees (and those only from a distance). I can’t handle slugs and snails. The list goes on. So why do I garden? Yeah, that’s sometimes a mystery even to me.

      But we loved cabbage, and I kept thinking I was missing something critical.  I continued searching for solutions and trying every organic trick I heard of – full of promises but never delivering.  Finally one day, I gave up.  I had given it my best shot, but decided it couldn’t be done without chemicals I had chosen not to use in our garden.  “No more cruciferous vegetables in our garden!”  It was a liberating feeling, free from disappointment, and I stuck to my guns for years.  Until now … …

      Thirty years later, my new friend Kim Ross convinced me to try again – using her hoop and netting system – organically. No bugs, no cabbage worms, no chemicals, . . . . hmmm. I thought I’d heard it all, but I hadn’t tried THIS. I had trusted her in the past – she steered me right in the No-Til approach to gardening. If I was ever going to believe anyone about cabbage – it was going to be her, because she had repeated success with it.

      left: view from outside the netting,
      right side: view from the inside – images from Kim Ross’s garden

      In 2025, I started cabbage plants by seed in March, and ordered some netting from her. Dan and I set out the plants and immediately covered them with the netting. The sun and rain came through the netting as promised, not a single fly or moth could find an opening. The cabbage grew big and beautiful. I was SOLD! I even had a couple broccoli plants in there. Equally beautiful. 100% pest free.

      A whole new world opened up to me.

      About five years before, I had made an exception to my rule for kale. I kept them separated, in different quadrants of the garden, prepared to dispose of any that became infested with some nameless pest. I didn’t care what the bug was – the plant would go into the garbage can in the alley the very minute I discovered the problem. My thinking was that by doing that, I’d protect any other kale plant from suffering the same fate. It worked for me the trial year, so I did it again. Kale are now a standard in my garden. I grow a few interspersed throughout the vegetable and flower gardens, always ready to sacrifice one or two as needed.

      Tatsoi

      Okay I confess, I was weakening – soon, I also allowed some Asian greens to join my party: Tatsoi and Bokchoi. And we were getting along just fine, but I drew the line at cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower. Those ugly worm memories were too strong to get rid of.

      I had observed other gardeners use various ‘hacks’, including covering cabbages, and I watched with interest as the seasons progressed, but too often the end was disappointing, and I felt vindicated. Until Kim Ross bragged about her specific netting that is. I finally caved. Thankfully. And now I am the proud ‘grower of cabbage’.

      This is good news for me, because cruciferous vegetables are low in calories and rich in vitamins and fiber. They’re delicious and nutritious. Cabbage is known for its dense heads that come in green, red or white, (I’ve only ever grown green), and is used fresh in salads and cooked dishes like cabbage rolls. In our house its often the base of stir fried vegetables as well as vegetable soup. And it is what makes sauerkraut – SAUERKRAUT. I simply wouldn’t want to do without cabbage.

      Cabbage is a cold weather vegetable – so it can be planted earlier than most others. In our area, you can usually plant them mid April – getting a full month jump on most other vegetables. I’m not going to tell you about its usual enemies – because its a subject I care nothing about. I will forever more plant my cabbages in rows under the protective netting Kim Ross advocates, and because of that, I expect to never again meet cabbage moths, flies or caterpillars in any of my cruciferous plants. I am content to be the ridiculous, finicky, easily disgusted, “city person” that you can make fun of behind my back. In my mind that’s far more preferable to worms.

      Planting and Soil

      WHAT
      Try different types of cabbage seeds till you find your favourite. I don’t have a favourite yet. I liked what I grew last year, but I’m still gonna try others since I’m such a novice.

      WHERE
      Selecting the best spot:  Cabbage prefers well-drained, loamy soil, rich in compost or aged manure.  And it need SUN. Full sun implies a minimum of 6-8 hours daily. You can’t fake the sun so this is very important. Choose a nice sunny spot. I am told that in southern climes you can plant cabbages in more shady areas to protect them from hot unyielding sun (remember they’re a cold weather crop), but I don’t live in a southern climate and where I live, full unfiltered sun is still important for cabbages to grow.

      WHEN
      Start seeds indoors in late winter (February or March), for spring planting outdoors, or simply buy your plants from a garden center. No judging here.
      As soon as the days start warming up enough that the ground has thawed and dried enough to work in, set your plants out.

      Don’t hesitate to plant a few different varieties of cabbage – paying attention to the length of time each is expected to take. This could help you harvest consecutively for several weeks. Some will have a suggested growing at 80 days. Some more, some less.

      HOW
      I practise no-til gardening with a very deep layer of straw as mulch. Deep as in 6-8 inches of straw or more. Because mine is an urban garden, space is always an issue so we mow our straw to break it up a little. There are mixed reviews on this practise, some prefer to leave the long stalks, personally I find them more manageable in my smaller garden if we’ve lightly chopped them up with the lawn mower. My entire row is covered with straw – LOTS of it. In my paths I have a deep layer of wood chips, also for mulch but this mulch takes longer to break down than the straw, perfect for the pathways.

      1. The straw and wood chip mulches (not mixed) allow the rain to go through, while reducing evaporation. This makes best use of our water.
      2. It also prevents the sun from getting through to the ground which eliminates many of the weed seeds from being able to sprout and thrive.
      3. The straw also begins decomposing where it touches the soil, and over the course of the season – that composting of the bottom layer will add to the richness of the soil.

      Mark your row and decide exactly where you want each plant. (If you’ve got more seedlings than you can use, give some away.) Space out your stakes for the hoops, in even spaces from each other. Hammer them into the ground to keep them solid.

      Allow plenty of room for all the outer cabbage leaves that accompany the actual cabbage – a minimum of 12 inches on either side of the cabbage itself, more depending on the type you’re growing. Pay attention to the recommended space written on the seed package. These outer leaves take up a lotta room but they’re important. They’re busy all season gathering sun, rain and nutrients for your plants.

      netted row of cruciferous vegetables in our community garden 2025
      2nd picture is my friend Sandi hold up three magnificent from her community garden plot. No bugs,

      to PLANT
      Gently move the straw over and add plenty of nice, rich compost to the row. Set the small cabbage plants into the prepared ground and water well. Gently firm all the soil around the plant with your hands, and give them a nice thirst quenching drink of water.

      Cabbages are heavy feeders, so make sure you add a generous amount of compost to the area reaching out at least a foot around the sealing.

      When all done planting, tuck the straw around the plants, being careful NOT to allow the straw to touch them – you want air and a little space between the plant and the straw. Once the plants get strong and happy in their new neighbourhood, you can tuck the straw in closer.

      Putting the netting on
      Attach the rubber hose / hoops to one stake and then pull the hose to the stake directly across from it. Once all stakes with hoops are attached, take your netting and gently pull it across all stakes, going down your entire row. Be sure to leave enough fabric to fasten down both ends, as well as fasten down the sides to give it a nice snug fit – like putting a bottom sheet on your bed.

      That’s it. It really is that easy. You’re good to go.

      WATER
      The straw mulch will restrict the need of LOTS of water being required all season long. Water generously in the beginning few weeks to help get roots established. Then water as needed throughout the rest of the season.


      *Hint: whether water or rain, it will go through the netting just fine and will go through the straw mulch. As the season goes on, reduce the amount of watering you’re giving each plant. Once the cabbage head starts to form, too much moisture may cause the head to split. This doesn’t affect the taste or nutrition but it can look quite unsightly, and will affect the long term shelf life, as well as preventing you from using this particular cabbage from being cabbage rolls.

      The big outer leaves gather the rain from which the plant drinks. In most cases, the rain will be sufficient IF you have a deep enough protective straw layer around your vegetables. You should rarely have to water your garden if using enough straw.

      I hope you’ll give cabbage an honest try in your garden if you haven’t already, or haven’t for a long time. Prepare to be pleased.

      *hint: if you EVER hear of Kim Ross speaking in your part of the world – attend. You’ll thank yourself many times over for having done so.

      Warmly,

      Cindy

      Posted on

      What do you know about blueberries?  

      do you know the difference between wild blueberries and cultivated?  

      Did you know that blueberries are one of the only foods naturally blue in colour?
      Did you know that wild blueberries have been harvested by humans for more than 13,000 years?
      Did you know that cultivated blueberries were developed in the 20th century?
      Did you know that the silvery ‘bloom’ on blueberries is a protective coating and shouldn’t be washed off until you are ready to eat them?
      Did you know that the United States is the world’s largest producer of cultivated blueberries?
      Did you know that Canada is the world’s largest producer of wild blueberries?
      Did you know that WILD blueberries are smaller in size than cultivated blueberries?
      Did you know that wild blueberries have an intensity of flavour that cultivated blueberries simply don’t have?
      Did you know that wild blueberries vary in colour from different shades of red, purple and blue to almost black, and that they also vary in sweetness?
      Did you know that wild blueberries are more flavourful and nutrient dense than their cultivated and well mannered cousins?
      Did you know that wild blueberries are considered a Superfood? and that they have double the antioxidants that cultivated blueberries have?

      Why does any of this matter?

      Because wild blueberries have a higher rate of genetic diversity than their cultivated 2nd cousins twice removed. 

      Cultivated blueberries grow 6 to 12 feet tall, depending on the variety.
      Not surprisingly, they’re called HIGH bush.

      and why does this matter? 
      Because that is what makes wild blueberries better for you! 

      Why? 
      Because they have a higher antioxidant content (double that of cultivated blueberries).  

      Why? 
      Because their smaller size gives them a higher skin-to-pulp ratio, containing more fiber, iron and a higher concentration of bioactive compounds including anthocyanins (remember that word).  

      Unlike cultivated blueberries which are the result of generations of selective breeding and farming practices designed to make them easier to harvest, as well as bigger and juicier, wild blueberries grow 100% on their own (wild), not planted, or tampered with in any way.  This means they have NO genetic engineering, they are exactly what nature originally created. 

      What does this mean for you?
      It means BLUEBERRIES are very good for you, but WILD BLUEBERRIES are even better!

      Wild blueberries grow 1 to 2 feet in height and breadth –
      commonly referred to as Low bush blueberries.

      Great right? Well-l-l, when was the last time you saw wild blueberries in the grocery store?

      Problem #1:  you cannot PLANT wild blueberries. 
      That’s why they’re call wild.  They grow where they want to, and only where they want to.  They have very specific soil requirements that cannot be duplicated. Wild blueberries (lowbush) primarily grow in the acidic soils of Eastern North America, especially in Atlantic Canada (Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island), and in north Atlantic USA (Maine), thriving in cool climates on sandy, well-drained land, often in areas previously burned or cleared.

      Wild blueberries grow naturally in fields and rocky hills called barrens. No one ‘plants’ them; they’ve grown naturally for thousands of years by spreading via underground runners. As such they are a pretty ‘low-maintenance crop’ for the most part. Field owners are hands-off throughout most of the growing season, although they prune fields with rotary mowers on alternate years, working with the natural two year crop cycle. Bees and other natural pollinators are critical to pollinate the bushes.

      Key Growing Regions and Conditions:

      While Dan and I drove the roads of rural Nova Scotia last fall (October 2025), we saw this gorgeous site of red fields mile after mile. We looked for clues as to what it was, but found none. Finally we pulled over and walked out into the ‘red’ to get a closer look, My phone app told me we were looking at fields of WILD Blueberries!
      Who knew? If you’re a native to Atlantic Canada you probably recognize the site, but neither Dan nor I had seen anything like it. And so began my deep dive into learning about wild blueberries.

      Wild blueberries are native to Canada so you may find them growing in all sorts of wild areas that meet the climate and soil requirements. But those are generally small patches.
      I grew up in northern Alberta and well remember going out to pick blueberries on summer days with my mom and a few other moms. We’d spread out and find a place to sit. My mom (and her other mom friends) were good blueberry pickers because they were motivated by love – making blueberry pie and other delectable treats that could only come to our families one way. Their children however, were not very good blueberry pickers. I was there for the fun of running around with my friends and eating whatever blueberries I picked. I was not beyond eating from my mom’s bucket if she let me – she DIDN’T. I can’t claim to have contributed much to the cause, but I benefit from the good memories. Since growing up and leaving home however, I moved to the city and have never picked a wild blueberry again.

      Other than the small patches that are picked privately dotting the country, it is the eastern Canadian provinces of Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island, where WILD BLUEBERRIES grow naturally – thousands of acres are set aside for them – protected.
      In the United States, Maine is the single largest producer of wild blueberries. 

      Ideal Conditions are:
      Cold climates with plenty of fresh water.
      Acidic, sandy, and well-drained soil.
      Habitat naturally occurs on open, treeless land, pine barrens, or areas recently cleared by fire, which stimulates growth. 

      Problem #2: it is very difficult to find wild blueberries in our world of shrinking wildlands.
      Wildland areas suitable to growing them are getting less continually.
      Naturalized fields are often managed through controlled burns or mowing to promote new growth and spread.  Wild blueberry bogs are protected. 

      I already knew that next to freshly harvested, no method of preserving would be as nutritious as freeze drying, and since I am not likely to ever eat a “fresh” wild blueberry that I didn’t personally pick, my next best alternative to buying wild blueberries is to find them freeze dried.

      Problem #3: even if you knew where some wild blueberries grew, most people will never be able to access them.  Lucky you. I hope you thank the Lord continually for your privilege.

      Problem #4: because wild blueberries grow low to the ground, they must be harvested by hand – or with a hand rake specifically designed for this purpose. 
      This is labour intensive, making harvesting difficult and expensive.

      While cultivated blueberry plants have been engineered to grow tall (called highbush), and are planted in rows, making harvesting easier, wild blueberry plants spread low and wide randomly through runners.

      So how can we partake of WILD BLUEBERRIES in a sustainable and affordable way?

      Wise Harvest Freeze Dried Foods 1only buys wild blueberries from sustainable farms that are dedicated to preserving their wild habitat, and YES they’re still harvested by hand or with a hand rake specifically designed for this purpose. 

      Wild blueberries are flash frozen within 24 hours of harvest, then transferred to a facility where remaining moisture is removed without thawing – in the second stage of the two step freeze-drying process. 

      I found a source of freeze dried WILD Blueberries that I trust.
      Wise Harvest.

      This means that wild blueberries are available to all, in non perishable freeze dried form – which preserves over 90% of the original natural nutrition, and is packaged to have a shelf life of up to 8 years. 

      Freeze drying wild blueberries makes them completely snackable – any time, any where. An easy go-to breakfast or midday snack – resealable so you can come back to it later.

      start at 8:34 to see the wild blueberries

      * Spoiler alert:  Though it might be a year or two out, Wise Harvest is moving toward packaging in BPA free cans which will extend the shelf life to 25 years.  Remember you heard that here first. 

      I’d love to hear your thoughts about Wild Blueberries, and your experiences. Were you lucky enough to have picked them in the wild when you were growing up? Or maybe you still do? Have you tried the freeze dried?

      Warmly,

      Cindy Suelzle

      1. find Wild Blueberries on the Wise Harvest website – here is my affiliate link: https://shop.wiseharvestfreezedriedfoods.com/cindy
        Yes, I loved them so much, I became an affiliate. ↩︎
      Posted on

      who gives a fig about figs?

      Well, for most of my life I didn’t. I never even saw a real fig till I had kids, but fig newtons were my dad’s favourite cookie when I was growing up we’ve shared a long history of sorts. These chewy fruity cookies have been popular with children and adults in North America long before my dad was born. Who knew? And who knew they were so easy to make at home? (see below for recipe1)

      Figs have always been synonymous with the Mediterranean for me, just a little out of reach but the world has become a smaller place over the years, and probably most of us are familiar with how they taste (even if it’s only from the cookies).

      Recently freeze dried figs have come into my life, so my interest has been peaked, and I was curious about whether I even wanted to be interested in them. Spoiler alert: I found am most definitely interested – read on. Freeze dried figs are the closest to the taste and nutrition of fresh figs; next best thing to eating them freshly picked from your own backyard fig tree.

      freeze dried figs from Wise Harvest Freeze Dried Foods

      Figs are not only nutritious,, but have been supplying people of ancient times with a life sustaining fruit that could travel far distances without spoiling. A fresh fig simply turns into a dried fig.

      It is believed that figs originated in western Asia (think of Cyprus, Israel, Jordan and Turkey), and have been cultivated since time immemorial (at least 5000 BC). Carried by travelers they spread throughout the Mediterranean and as far away as Central America, China, Japan, India, South Africa and Austraila, even as far north as southern Germany and California. Fransiscan missionaries planted figs in southern California in 1769 and they have become and important commercial crop. Depending on the type, fig trees can produce fruit for up to ten months of the year.

      They contain substantial amounts of vitamins and minerals such as potassium, copper and manganese as well as dietary fiber which helps with digestive health, as well as with bone density and glucose metabolism. The B vitamins are all present in figs, most notably vitamins B1, B5 and B6. Figs are more commonly eaten fresh, but since that is too far out of my reality, I’m more interested in learning about dried or freeze dried figs. 100 grams (10-12 dried) figs is only 74 calories!

      They are eaten Fresh, Dried, as a Powder, infused in a hot drink similar to tea, made into jams and paste, even made into a fig syrup, and alcohol. And evidently, we now know, they’re available as a freeze dried fruit (grown in California).
      Freeze drying figs locks in all those nutrients.
      Take a closer look – https://shop.wiseharvestfreezedriedfoods.com/cindy

      Huh, who knew? It seems Figs are of tremendous value to those who understand them.

      What are your thoughts about this formerly mysterious fruit?

      My new find: a recipe for homemade fig newtons. Haven’t tried it yet, but it looks great.
      I”ll let you know. 2

      Warmly,

      Cindy Suelzle

      1. https://www.hanielas.com/homemade-fig-newtons/ Homemade Fig Newton Recipe ↩︎
      2. https://www.hanielas.com/homemade-fig-newtons/ Homemade Fig Newton Recipe ↩︎