Even if you’re a first-time gardener, you’ve likely discovered by now that gardening is not simply a matter of planting seeds and watering them. Nor is it as straightforward as planting in the spring and harvesting in the fall. Gardening asks for patience, attention, and a willingness to adapt—especially when nature has plans of its own.
This year has certainly proven that point. Edmonton has just experienced the wettest June in recorded history. The previous record, set in 1914, saw 217 millimetres of rainfall. That record was surpassed well before the end of the month, reaching 262 millimetres by Sunday, June 28—and that doesn’t even include the additional rain that fell on June 29 and 30. (At the time of writing, the evening of June 30, the final total is still climbing.)
While I’m sure that one day we’ll look back on this and even brag about it, right now it’s a record we would have been just as happy not to set. Everyone knows someone whose basement has flooded. Newly planted trees are quite literally floating. And it has created enormous challenges for farmers and gardeners of every kind.
Challenges We’re Seeing in the Garden:
Root Suffocation and Rot
Edmonton’s clay-rich soil drains slowly. When water lingers, it displaces oxygen in the soil, causing roots to literally suffocate and, in many cases, develop rot.
Nutrient Loss
At best, excessive rain leaches away essential nutrients—especially nitrogen—leaving plants looking pale, weak, and stunted.
Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Constant moisture creates the perfect environment for disease. Splashing soil can carry fungal spores onto lower leaves, leading to issues like powdery mildew, black spot, and various blights.
Pest Surges when the flood dissipates
Beyond the mosquitoes we’re all battling, wet conditions also invite an increase in slugs and snails, which can quickly damage tender plants.
However, every experience is an opportunity to learn—especially the ones we wish we never had.
Here’s a foundational truth: we will never become good gardeners if the weather is always perfect. And the next truth is just as important: the weather is never perfect.
When I managed our family businesses, and later taught at annual industry conventions, I encouraged people to ask themselves three simple questions after every event—big or small. I’ve found these questions useful in every area of life as a way to reflect, learn from mistakes, and improve moving forward:
- What went well?
- What could I have done better?
- What did I learn?
So let’s bring that into the garden:
- Under the circumstances, what am I glad I did? What was working?
- Is there something I could have done that would have made this better? What was it?
- Where do I go from here? What did I learn—and what will I act on to ensure a better outcome next time?
From this month’s excessive rain, there is much we can take forward—not just for the rest of this season, but for all our gardening seasons to come.
If you and I have ever talked gardening, you’ve probably heard me mention no-till gardening. If you were to look at my plot in the community garden, you’d notice a few things right away: a generous layer of mulch, rows that sit noticeably higher than the surrounding ground, and paths that are set lower. You’d also see that my rows are mulched with straw, while the paths are deeply covered with wood chips.
TThough this method of gardening is often promoted as protection against drought, it works just as effectively in the opposite extreme.
By keeping the paths lower than the rows, excess water is naturally diverted into these “ditches,” moving it safely away from tender plants growing in raised mounds. These rows—often planted with multiple lines of vegetables—stay elevated and better drained.
Heavy mulching plays a dual role. Straw on the rows helps retain moisture when it’s needed, while wood chips in the paths encourage water to move downward into the soil, where it remains accessible to deep, searching roots. At the same time, both types of mulch help prevent rapid evaporation when the sun finally returns.
Advantages of Raised Rows
- Slightly Warmer Soil – Ideal for seed germination, especially in early spring.
- Improved Drainage – Plants sit above water collection areas and are never left standing in puddles.
- Healthy Soil Structure – Undisturbed soil supports a thriving ecosystem, creating natural air pockets and allowing moisture to move freely.
Advantages of Straw Mulch on Rows
- Temperature Regulation – Insulates soil, keeping it cooler in heat and warmer in cold.
- Moisture Retention – Acts like a “lid” on the soil, reducing evaporation.
- Weed Suppression – About 6 inches is ideal, but even less makes a significant difference.
- Soil Protection – Prevents “sunburn” of the soil and protects the living ecosystem beneath.
- Builds Soil Over Time – As it breaks down, it becomes compost, creating rich, healthy loam.
Tip: Add straw each fall to build a living, breathing soil system year after year.
Advantages of Wood Chip Mulch in Paths
- Water Management – Provides a place for excess water to go, allowing it to spread out and soak in—away from plants, but still accessible to roots.
- Moisture Conservation – In dry conditions, wood chips help retain water by reducing evaporation.
At Sakaw Garden, we try to keep extra straw on hand for anyone who would like to use it. Personally, I prefer chopped straw—especially in smaller garden spaces, where it’s easier to handle and apply evenly.
How do we chop it? The old-fashioned way. We’ve brought a lawn mower down to the garden, spread out a few bales in the field outside the fence (before the dandelions flowered), and simply mowed over them. The chopped straw is then gathered into a wheelbarrow and brought into the garden for use.
The first time we did this, Dan processed several bales and left a generous pile just outside the east fence for others to use. These days, when I need more, I’ll often bring a large bag from home that we’ve already chopped.
I strongly and wholeheartedly recommend the no-till method: raised rows, deep paths, and plenty of mulch. It’s a simple, resilient system that works with nature—whether we’re facing drought… or the wettest June on record.
7 Things You Can Do
to Help Mitigate Heavy Rain Damage in Your Garden
1. Stay Off Waterlogged Soil
Avoid unnecessary walking on saturated ground. Wet soil compacts very easily, which reduces airflow and makes conditions even harder on plant roots.
2. Improve Drainage (Gently!)
Use a garden fork to lightly puncture the soil, allowing oxygen to reach the roots. If possible, dig small trenches in your pathways to help move water away. Otherwise, disturb the soil as little as possible while it’s still wet.
3. Trim and Tidy Plants
Remove any damaged, yellowing, or diseased foliage. This helps prevent the spread of fungal issues and allows plants to redirect energy into healthy growth.
4. Add Straw Mulch
Mulch with straw to keep leaves from drooping into the mud. Plant leaves should never sit directly on wet soil—it’s an open invitation for disease.
5. Support Heavy Plants
Stake or tie up plants that are drooping or top-heavy. Rain adds weight, and unsupported plants can easily bend or break.
6. Replenish Lost Nutrients
After prolonged rain, it’s almost guaranteed that nutrients—especially nitrogen—have been leached from the soil. Yellowing leaves are a common sign.
I’ve used blood meal at home with good results. It’s a fast-acting, organic nitrogen source that promotes lush, green growth. Just remember: a little goes a long way—too much can burn your plants. 1
7. Get Ahead of Pests (Especially Slugs!)
Wet conditions are a paradise for slugs… unfortunately. Set out traps and consider natural deterrents like crushed eggshells around your plants to help protect them.
Gardeners, this too shall pass. Maybe quicker than we might imagine. And with it, perhaps the best learning experience we’ll ever have. There is no end to learning. Keep it up.
Warmly
Cindy Suelzle
Footnotes:
- Bloodmeal
To apply blood meal (it’s a black powder) to already established plants, use 1 teaspoon per plant, working it into the top 2 inches. Water it in. The water will help activate the nutrients and prevent attracting animals.
I take about a cup of blood meal and mix it into a bucket of good, dry soil. Then I add a handful of soil to the plants I want to treat with it. Try to prevent direct contact with stem and leaves as it could cause fertilizer burn.
Blood meal is best for leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, kale and cabbage, swiss chard, Asian greens etc, and nitrogen loving heavy feeders like corn and squash.
Normally, its not recommended for tomatoes, but my tomatoes had yellow leaves so I took a chance. Too much may delay fruit production, just so y’know. …..
Blood meal breaks down and washes away, so be prepared to reapply in about 6 weeks.
*Caution: don’t over do it, too much nitrogen will cause “nitrogen burn”, yellowing or browning leaves. You’ll cause more damage than you’re solving by far. As it promotes new growth, avoid using it late in the summer. ↩︎