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6 easy steps for putting your garden to bed + 2 bonus tips

Face it – by the end of August, we cannot deny the inevitable any longer. Growth has slowed down, fruit and vegetables are ripening, plants are drying out and going to seed. They’re all doing what nature intends for us all to do at certain times – get ready for bed.

In the spring, we’re all excited about our gardens, but tucking our gardens in for the winter is an important step that is often missed entirely. When the weather gets colder and things stop growing, we lose interest in being in the garden, but missing this final seasonal detail is a mistake. It’s tempting to be a bit lazy, and I get it. Its dark earlier, weather isn’t great, dead and dying perennials are kinda hard to get excited about. But don’t fall for it. Your garden NEEDS you. Putting your garden to bed is an important step in it’s health next spring. Come on, give yourself one more final push, then you can both rest in the winter – guilt free.

There have been years I’ve tried extending the season by planting things like spinach at the end of August hoping for a late crop. There have been years I’ve tried to extend the season by heating the greenhouse into the fall. But the simple truth is, we don’t have the sun for it in Alberta. In September, we have the same amount of sun as we do in March. No matter how many nights you heat the greenhouse in September, you cannot fake the sun during the day, and plants need sun. You’d have more success extending the season by planting earlier in the season than you would extending the season in the fall. Winter has its purpose, it isn’t the great enemy of gardeners that we sometimes make it out to be. My opinion? Give it up. Let fall be fall. And get on with your life. BUT. Put your garden to bed first! So you can both rest comfortably.

late summer bouquet

What to get rid of and what not to get rid of? That is the question.

By September, there are always a bunch of dead and dying plants, some that seem to be coming into their own, and of course lots of weeds going to seed. Some gardeners follow the philosophy of clearing everything out and leaving a nice tidy garden bed. I don’t have anything quite so tidy as a “garden bed” in my yard. I have lots of planted space but its not all together. I have perennial flower beds on all four sides of the house, sunny flower beds, shady flower beds, some flower beds under trees, some tucked into shady corners. I have repurposed horse troughs, a currant patch, rhubarb patch, raspberry patch, grapes, fruit trees dispersed throughout, a dedicated herb garden and three raised beds for edibles, with edibles planted here and there among flowers and herbs. There are still tomatoes trying to ripen and root vegetables that are doing just fine where they are for now. Every garden has its own needs. But there are some rules of thumb that I apply to all.

1. Clean up

There is plenty of debate in this area ranging all the way from getting rid of everything to leaving it all for spring clean up, and everywhere in between. I’ve listened to much of it, applied the counsel that made sense to me, and in the end, I’ve come up with my own pattern that I’m happy with. Truth is however, that sometimes life gets in the way, and you simply don’t ‘get to it’ in time. Don’t beat yourself up when that happens; there will be other years to do it better. But for now, here’s the ‘general’ plan. Keep in mind that life is about compromise and there are exceptions to every rule.

First of all get rid of the dead stuff. That’s a natural. For the most part: if its dead pull it out.
Throw it into the compost.
exceptions:
If some of the weeds have roots or seeds or perhaps a plant has a disease – you don’t want to risk taking that into next year by putting them into your backyard compost, so either get rid of them in *the garbage or *Burn them! Otherwise, into the compost they go. (for more information on backyard composting click here)
If it’s a perennial that has died back, cut it off at the ground.

Annuals are easy. Just pull them out and throw them into the compost. Most of the time, I throw big piles of compostables on the lawn. We mow them up and throw them into the compost, or into some of the beds that could use them. When I say ‘we’, I mean of course ‘Dan’. Getting rid of dead plants and other debris removes winter shelter for pests, preventing future problems next spring. There are some diseases that can overwinter. You don’t want that lingering over into a fresh new start in the spring time; if there is disease – get it outta there. Getting rid of weeds at the end of the season gets rid of their seeds and roots, reducing their annoyance next spring. Yes I know they’re no longer visibly causing a problem, but they’re going to seed or developing strong root systems (sneaky little jerks), so get rid of them.

RULE:
*Healthy plants – even weeds – compost them. In my books there are good weeds and bad weeds. Good weeds to me, are weeds that we eat and that I don’t mind propagating next year, like chickweed and lambs quarters. (see Making Friends with your Weeds)
Bad weeds are stupid weeds like Trailing Bellflower (devil-weed), or rooty weeds like dandelions, horse radish, and thistle – those I do not compost. Or other weeds that make a lotta seeds. Yes I know that compost may take care of most of these problems . . . but I usually don’t risk it. There are very few plants I feel the need to eradicate, so I’m not gonna waste time feeling guilty about them. They should feel guilty for disappointing me so much.
*Unhealthy plants – get rid of them. No exceptions. And not into your compost.

Remove tender summer-flowering bulbs such as dahlias and store them in your cold room or garage for planting next season. I personally have never brought my dahlias in for the winter, I just buy more in the spring, but this year I am in love with the dahlias I grew, so I’m gonna give it a try. Besides, I figure since I fuss for my geraniums, it can’t be much different. (see below for the geraniums)

But what about the plants that are not dead? I cannot bear to kill things that want to live so much that they thrive in the inhospitable dryness, reduced light and chilly nights of early fall. Those are the things I don’t get rid of. I still water them when needed and in return, they do what they do best – gladden my heart. They will die on their own when the cold of late October makes it impossible for them to do otherwise. I leave them where they are because they will trap snow which will protect all around them, and help with needed moisture when the snow melts in the spring.

There are also good bugs that need shelter in the winter, like lady bugs and their friends. So don’t clear everything out, find some balance.

RULE:
get rid of the uglies – keep the beautiful;
get rid of the sick and dead – keep the healthy and strong

2. Fall Planting

Fall planting is a way of taking advantage of the earliest that spring has to offer.
SPINACH: Planting spinach in the fall before the snow flies, should give you an early yield. Select a spot that is protected, but that will get good sun in April and May. Lightly sow a patch of spinach. Throughout the winter, ensure it has a good covering of snow. When the warmth of April days melts the snow in some nice sunny spots, your spinach seed will sprout. They are not afraid of cold. They’ll just patiently wait till conditions are better and then start growing again.

DILL, POPPIES, CALENDULA and other herb and flower seeds can be sown at the time of harvest to pop up in the earliest days of May. Simply broadcast them in your desire spots and let nature do what she does best. The seeds need a winter, and protective snow.

Some plants that inadvertently get left in the garden, may resurrect in the spring. My rule of thumb is to let most things that want to grow – grow. You may have a sage plant that comes back, lemon balm, parsley, even kale. You may have volunteer lettuce plants start to grow because something went to seed last fall.

GARLIC: Plant your garlic before the ground freezes to harvest at the end of next summer.

Spring Bulbs. Yes I know fall is the time to plant daffodils and more tulips etc for spring blooms. I’m sorry. I’ve got nothing to offer here. I aspire to plant more bulbs in the fall, but its just one thing that I rarely find time for.

3. Bring them in

Some plants might be healthy enough to bring indoors. I always bring in some geraniums (see below), and often bring in a rosemary plant. I’ve tried lots of other herbs, but I simply don’t have the sun for them. If you have a beautiful sunny window, I strongly encourage giving them a try indoor. Prune down to about 1/2 its original size, trimming off everything brown. Shake the old soil off to get rid of any unwelcome hitch hikers, and maybe even rinse the roots off. Then replant in fresh soil, water well and set in your sunniest window.

GERANIUMS. I love geraniums, and they love me back. Red ones. Only red ones. I’ve tried other colours, but I kept coming back to red, and now I don’t bother with any other colour when I know that it’s red I really want. Their bright vibrant flowers cheer me all spring and summer long. At the end of it, I cannot bear to kill them, or let them them die while they’re still trying so hard to make the world a better place. So I bring them inside. In actual fact, though we think of them as annuals, geraniums are actually ‘tender’ perennials, and will tolerate temperatures down to about 7°C while still actively growing.  That is truly heroic. Another reason I love them. I’ll bring two or three into the house and let them live in a sunny window all winter long. Their favourite temperature is between 12°- 18°C, which is ideal for in-house if you’ve got enough light. However, I find that in the winter even though I have a south facing bay window, winter sun is just not very impressive and they stop flowering shortly after they get moved inside.  And by about January they start to get quite ‘leggy’. I just trim them as needed to try to keep them content. Its the least I could do for all the joy they bring me outside for five months.

geraniums at season’s end, still being beautiful

But I cannot invite all my geraniums into the living room, so I do something else.
I put my three wooden window boxes in the garage. Ours is a heated garage though its usually pretty chilly out there. We only turn the furnace on when Dan’s working on a project, but apparently it fine for geraniums. Before a killer frost (so sometime mid to late September), I will hard prune the plants by about one third to one half, removing any dead, damaged or unhealthy parts. I check for stupid aphids (I hate aphids) or other problem critters or disease. I water deeply, then I put them up on a shelf in the garage, kinda out of the way but not so much out of the way that I forget they’re there.

I give them a drink of water a few times – maybe every 4-6 weeks. If they’re too outta sight, I’ll forget to water them, and even though they’re mostly dormant, they still need a little moisture now and again. By about March they start responding to the little bit of light they get from a frosted window and miraculously they start to green up. I am always amazed that they do this, and I regard it as one of nature’s miracles. It’s still cold outside, with snow and ice, but they start being true to their calling in life. March has about the same amount of sun as September. I take this new growth as a sign to give them more to drink. By mid April, I can start letting them sit outside on nice days, giving them more water. This gradually gets them used to outdoor light and regular watering. I don’t put them outside permanently till after May 1, and even after that I put a cloth over top if I expect freezing night time temperatures. I can’t risk losing them that late in the game.

I trim them back as needed, give them some healthy mulch and all purpose fertilizer, and we go right back to being old friends. They’re grateful to be back in their rightful place, and I’m grateful to have them. They resume bringing me joy, and I resume my supportive role as their care-giver.

Some garden herbs:
I’ve tried pretty much all herbs in the house for winter and I just don’t have enough light, even with my south facing bay window. Yes, I know I can use grow lights, but most of my plants are in the living room, and I don’t want grow lights in there all winter long. There are some though, that seem to do better than others.

*ROSEMARY: I often bring a rosemary plant indoors. In fact for several years I’ve kept one in a pot that I moved in and out, but eventually I lost it by letting it dry out. It’s surprising how much water herbs require in the dry climate of a house in winter. If you have a particularly happy healthy rosemary plant, go ahead and dig it up. Trim it down by about half, remove the soil and gently rinse off the plant and roots. Be sure the pot is clean, and you’re using fresh soil, then transplant into its new home and bring it inside. Keep it in the sunniest spot and water when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. 

*BAY LAUREL: I have a bay laurel plant I bring in and out and in and out, for about 8 years now. I am very invested in keeping this plant safe. I had a couple near misses this last year with it, but we weathered the storm together. I keep it in the same pot, so I’m not digging it up, but this year I was particularly careful about cleaning it. I trimmed all the ‘iffy’ branches or leaves (anything that wasn’t pristine), removed it from its pot, removed all the soil, gently rinsed the roots of all old soil and washed the pot. Then I transplanted it back into its original but cleaned up pot, and brought it back inside. It’s very happy.

*CUBAN OREGANO: Unlike regular oregano cuban oregano won’t survive our winter, so its best suited in a pot where it can come inside for the winter. Give it a sunny spot and it’s an easy-to-grow house plant that will be your friend for years with just a little care and attention. A member of the mint family, and often referred to as Mexican mint, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Water when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. 

4. gleaning – the final harvest

It’s true that in Sept and October, late fruits and vegetables are ready to harvest. Root crops like carrots, beets and potatoes; fruits like apples, plums and grapes. Some apples and plums may be ready in August, others in September or October. Generally, the grapes we grow in the Edmonton area are ready in September after the weather cools a little.

*BUT – There are hidden harvests that often get missed. Just open your eyes.

Gardens don’t cease to bless your lives just because its autumn.

dill seed ready to harvest

If you grew DILL this year, you probably have some that has gone to seed. Go get it. Pull the plant out of the ground, cut the head off and put it in a bowl. Shake or brush the seeds off the plant into the bowl. Broadcast a handful where you want dill next year, and gather the rest to save for more deliberate planting in the spring. Yes, there are many ways to use it in the kitchen if you have enough.
I’ll admit it, I rarely allow my dill to go to seed, except for a few delegated plants off to the side. I do this because aphids usually accompany dill when it goes to seed, and I hate aphids. But this year, I had a ton of dill – way way way over planted. I picked all the green ferny dill weed that I could use, gave plenty away, and still had too many dill plants all going to seed at the same time. I watched for aphids but didn’t see anything excessive. I let them ripen, ever watchful, but I never saw a problem, so I proceeded. Lucky me, I got lots of dill seed to grow next year, and lots to bring into the house.
Store your seed in a paper envelop, labelled and dated.

POPPIES. If you’re not growing poppies you’re missing out on one of nature’s loveliest offerings. Beautiful before they flower. Gorgeous iconic papery flowers. And just as beautiful in the late summer after they’ve gone to seed. You’ll know the seed is ripe when you can hear it rattle inside the seed pod. At that point, pull the plant out of the ground and turn upside down into a bowl. Shake the seeds out. Broadcast the seed from two or three heads at most (that’s a LOT of poppies) where you want them to grow next year, and save the rest for poppy seed bread, muffins, cake, cookies and salad dressing.
BEANS and peas that didn’t get picked in time, are ripening and drying. When they’re fully developed, pick them and store them for seed next year, in a marked and dated paper envelop or lunch bag.
CHIVES and GARLIC CHIVES have gone to seed, producing thousands of little black seeds. You can let them fall and have a million little chive plants growing everywhere next year, or you can harvest the seed to sprinkle on bread or over top other dishes. *hint: they’re entirely edible, but don’t expect too much in the way of flavour.
GARLIC. Mid September is the time to harvest garlic, and to plant more.
KALE is planted in various places throughout my yard. In the vegetable garden, in the rhubarb patch, the asparagus patch, and interspersed among perineal flowers and herbs. A few here and a few there. One or two act as a trap crop for annoying pests – thank you for your sacrifice. They’ll get eaten by chickens (who bytheway enjoy annoying pests).
Don’t worry, I’ve got others. Kale is hardy, and even in September, it’s on stage doing a full encore. Beautiful. How can you not love kale? I pick it every few days to add to dinner, and if I pick more than we need, I dehydrate it. Super simple. Just strip leaves off the stems, wash and chop to put in the dehydrator. When dry, store in a jar to use all winter long.
This spring I had an unexpected surprise. A kale plant over wintered and started producing harvestable kale by mid May. I let it do its own thing and as time when on, it began to flower and go to seed. So by September I have a lot of beautiful ripe kale seed in pods. A gift.
NASTURTIUMS have been giving all season long. But as much as I used their greens and flowers, some flowers always get left behind to go to seed. This is good, as I am all about collecting seed right now.
SWEET PEAS are annual climbing flowers, that are so bright and cheerful, and hardy that they can be friends with everyone. I’ve always thought they should be spring or at least early summer flowers, but they do best, as summer progresses into August. They’ll go to seed if you let the last few flowers ripen. Easy to collect. I highly recommend starting them in-doors well ahead of growing season. This year (2022) is the first year I’ve let mine go to seed so that I can plant inside next April. The pods look very similar to pea pods (who’d suspected right? lol), and as they ripen the seeds are so perfect that it would have been a shame not to collect them. Having said that, if you wait to long, they’ll open and drop their seeds, but I have yet to have had one survive the winter and volunteer in the spring.
SUNFLOWERS are ripening. Cut the smaller flowers for kitchen bouquets, but let the bigger ones ripen. If the seeds are still immature (white), but a nice size, bring them in, they’re delicious in salads and stir fries as a vegetable. If they’re big heads, share some with the birds over the winter. I leave them face up in several different places throughout the yard where wild birds like to hang out when its cold. Our favourite place is just outside our kitchen window where we can enjoy watching them all winter long. Its a win-win.

Lots of herbs are still doing beautifully, but its time to cut them down for the last time and bring them in for winter use. Sage, rosemary, tarragon, stevia, mint of course, lemon balm, oregano, thyme, parsley, lemon verbena, . . .
My lavender gave me some late sprigs to add to what has already been harvested. Thank you Lavender.

Look around you – there is more bounty than you may have expected.

5. Mulch and other ‘protection‘

Everybody likes a comfy blanket. In gardens we call it ‘mulch’.

homemade patchwork quilt

My mom, throwing an additional blanket over top of me in bed on a cold winter’s night, is a comforting childhood memory. It provided a little weight, and that weight provided warmth.

Our gardens would appreciate an additional insulating blanket against the harshness of winter too. Some plants might be a little sensitive to the bitter cold of some winters that we have no control over and cannot always predict, but sometimes its simply a matter of protecting the bare soil and friendly critters in it. What kind of blanket? Nice clean fallen leaves that are so plentiful in the fall, is a perfect mulch. Between one to three inches is recommended. In the absence of leaves, the final mowing of dried grass would be good, or chopped/mowed up straw. Don’t use wood chips in the garden; they detract from the soil long before they can possibly add to it.

In addition to protecting the soil and plants in it, mulch slowly adds nutrients and humus. Humus is the Latin world for ‘earth’ or ‘ground. It refers to that dark organic matter in soil which comes from the decomposition of plants and animal matter. That a good thing because it improves soil structure, aeration, and water holding capabilities. Aeration reduces the compaction of soil, allowing roots to take up nutrients and spread out healthily.

Leaves or straw won’t magically disappear over the winter, miraculously becoming humus. Some of it will still be quite identifiable as leaves and straw in the spring, but some (the bottom layer) has begun to decompose. I simply rake off the identifiables and mow them up with the first mowings of spring to be used to as a top layer in an area I want to amend, as mulch between rows, or the beginning of this year’s compost. A good winter’s mulch is a beautiful start in prepping your soil for spring. Just sayin’ . . . . .

winter protection from foraging animals

Most urban yards don’t suffer too much from animals like deer foraging over the winter, but rabbits can be a problem. They ate the bark from my daughter’s lilac tree a few winters ago, and killed it. If you live in an area where rabbits might be an issue for you, wrap the bottom three or four feet loosely with chicken wire. Why so high? When the snow is deep and the rabbit is sitting on top of the snow, that is where they’ll be nibbling.

tips to remember
1. Disease is not something you want to add to your compost. Get rid of those plants. Either burn them or garbage them.
2. Roots like trailing bell flower, horse radish and dandelion, and seeds like thistle are not things you want in your compost. Get rid of them.
Either burn them or garbage them.
3. Its helpful to mow up your bigger pieces before putting them into your compost. This speeds up the process of breaking down, a good thing.

6. Watering trees in late autumn keeps them healthy and strong

clockwise from upper left: Red Elderberry, Spruce, Honeycrisp Apple, Evans Sour Cherry

While your trees are dropping their leaves, or just after, they would appreciate a good long drink. Give both evergreen and deciduous trees a long, slow, deep watering. This is important, but the timing is particular. Too early might signal the tree toward new growth and may slow the onset of dormancy. Dormancy is not a light switch, it is a progressive stage allowing trees to prepare for colder weather and eventual freeze up. Too late (after the ground freezes) prevents the water from seeping into the soil and reaching the feeder roots. How will you know when the time is right? Look to your trees. Deciduous (leafy) trees will tell you the time is right when their leaves have fallen. This will also be your hint to water their neighbours, the evergreen trees. Because evergreens don’t go into full dormancy, they will actively use water throughout the year, except for when its really cold, so its even more important that they get a good watering in the fall.

Don’t water mature trees right up near the trunk, as the roots that need water will be further out – closer to where the canopy of the tree extends. The exception to this rule is newly planted trees who’s roots might still be close to the initial root ball.

Put your hose on the ground and water slowly so that the water doesn’t puddle on the surface. You’re looking to moisten the top foot of soil around the perimeter of the ‘drip line’ (distance from the trunk to as far as the outside branches reach). “Moisten” does not mean “soggy”. Testing the moisture level is easy – insert a wooden stick or a metal rod into the soil. Where the soil is moist, the stake should slide in easily. When it meets with resistance, that signifies to you that the soil is dry. You’re looking for about a foot of moistened soil. Anything deeper is of no value and is wasted.

Watering earlier in the day gives the roots time to absorb the moisture before the temperature drops at night.

Bonus tip 1. Protect your garden tools and equipment

Hold on! You’re not done yet. I know its tempting to just go inside when the cold hits and shut the door, but pay attention to your tools. They deserve it. Whether you have a garden shed or space in the garage, or box in the basement – use it. Don’t leave your clippers or spade outside to rust.

Tools: Clean them and put them in a box.
Seed trays and pots: Wash them and store them where they’ll be easy to retrieve in the late winter or early spring when you’ll need them.
Maintenance: Now is the time to fix those annoying little things that have needed patching all summer long.

Bonus tip 2. Garden journal

Hopefully you’ve been keeping a garden journal all along, but if you haven’t right now would be a good time to start one. Record the dates you harvested this or that, and the general yield. Record the temperatures in these close out days for reference next year. Record the seeds you harvested. Make sure you store them in paper envelopes, labelled and dated. Record your successes and failures and your ideas for fixing them next year – while they’re still fresh in your mind. I promise you will not remember them otherwise. Record what varieties did well, and what did not, what you’ll be sure to repeat and what you will not. Maybe you are an avid journaler, maybe you’re more of a casual note taker, but whatever you are – DO SOMETHING. I promise you’ll be happy you did when you go to reference it next spring.

stand back and enjoy the immense satisfaction of a “job well done” . . .

In my case its a challenge to even know where to begin when its time to wrap things up for the season. I rarely have two or three days that I can devote to the work of putting my garden to bed, and my ‘gardens’ are all over the yard, full of perennials. I catch a few hours here and there to go out and work, but the job is pretty overwhelming when you’re doing it in pieces. I find the only way I can proceed with any feeling of accomplishment is if I start in one corner and proceed in a single direction. ‘Finishing a piece’ with no intention of coming back to it till spring, helps me systematically make it through the whole yard.

Standing back to admire what you’ve done once in awhile is satisfying.
Standing back when you’re ALL done, is immensely satisfying, but the truth is, there are seasons, that I never completely make it through the whole yard. Yes, I wish I had, but life simply gets busy and sometimes the snow comes before I am ready for it. Nothing to do in that case, but get on with my life, and try to do better next year.

*hint: don’t wait till its COLD and the job is horrible. On September 1, you KNOW cold days are coming. Start the job of putting your garden to bed while the weather is still pleasant – removing (or pruning back) those plants that have already given you everything they have to give, and deserve their rest.

Good Night Garden. Enjoy your rest. I’ll enjoy mine.

I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences about getting your garden ready for bed and tucking it in for the winter, as well as your comments on some of the things discussed here.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle

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Common Herbs in your House and Yard: part 2 Dandelions to Feverfew

Part 2 – D,E,F

in this chapter: Dandelion, Dill, Echinacea, Fennel, and Feverfew
Some inside, some outside. Chapter continues to be a work in progress. I’d love to read your comments below.

DANDELION

– highly nutritious, containing vitamins C and B6, thiamin, riboflavin, calcium, iron, potassium and manganese. Acts as a mild laxative that promotes digestion, stimulates appetite and balances the natural and beneficial bacteria in the intestines.

For the last two years, I have a set aside a special place in my garden called “the Protected Zone”. In it, I plant ‘weeds’. A weed refuge camp, where they are supposed to be safe. I’ve had differences of opinion from time to time with the people who matter most to me about ‘weeds’. I maintain that a weed is only a label for a plant that someone doesn’t find value in, that is growing in a place you don’t want it to grow. Call it whatever you want, but don’t be so narrow minded as to believe that the name means there is no value. Years ago I decided to let poppies, dill, lambs quarters and even chickweed grow in my garden. Because I found a use for them. I don’t let them grow everywhere. I am aware of the aesthetics of my garden, but there are places where they don’t harm others and where they can serve a useful purpose. Dandelions however, can be pretty bossy. They flower and seed and can take over easily so I don’t allow them free reign. But they have something to offer, so at long last – I’ve come up with a solution. A protected zone. Where they are free to grow and BE, so that I can partake of what they want to give me. They have like-minded neighbours that I’ll talk about later.

my daughter created this sign for me to help me protect the weeds in my “protected zone”

People with less vision try to help me out from time to time. They assume that I have missed this dandelion, or that plantain or heaven forbid, I did not know that chamomile was a ‘weed’, . . . . . and so they do me a favour and pull it out. I appreciate good intentions. Really I do! But I have tried to emphasize “That is my protected zone. Don’t touch anything that is in it” more times than I can number.

Why do dandelions have a protected spot in my garden?
Because from top to bottom, the dandelion is a highly nutritious plant, loaded with vitamins and minerals.

The name Dandelion comes from the French term dente de lion, meaning lion’s tooth, and referring to the jagged leaves. A common plant native to Europe, it grows wild almost everywhere in the world, and like so many others immigrated to North America inadvertently with European settlers centuries ago. Don’t get lost in its reputation as a weed, it has remarkable nutritional value. The leaves contain almost as much iron as spinach, and four times more Vitamin A. It contains calcium, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, sodium, Vitamin A and C, and is a power house of antioxidants.

The leaves are a little bitter for me, but their nutritional superiority is hard to ignore. When my kids were little, I would often gather some (from my own yard where I knew they were safe) to add to a summer salad of mixed greens. I made the mistake of doing that once in front of my twelve year old brother-in-law. He did not like the idea, and told on me. “Cindy made me eat ‘leaves’.” (I was glad he didn’t say weeds. His mother was a very plain cook and had a problem accepting me in the beginning as it was.) asked him recently (he’s now 50 and a little more adventurous in his eating) “Do you remember having a problem with that sorta thing at my house?”
YES! He sure does remember! LOL. I wanted to ask if he felt bad about the criticism I took, but I didn’t want to push my luck.

There are many health benefits in addition to nutrition that are attributed to dandelions.
Because of its high amounts of specific vitamins and minerals, dandelion is used for jaundice and other liver disorders, urinary disorders and anemia, as well as inflammation, blood sugar regulation, reducing cholesterol, and lowering blood pressure. Research indicates that dandelion may also have antimicrobial and antiviral properties, which supports your body’s ability to fight infection, making it an immune enhancing herb.

growing

Hahaha – I’m sure no one needs any help figuring out how to grow dandelions, but be sure that any you use are free from sprays intended to kill them. I would never pick a dandelion that didn’t come from my own yard, and sometimes not even then. Hence, the protected zone.

harvesting and using

*Leaves: are more tender and less bitter in the early spring. Simply snip the leaves from your protected plants, as you would any other garden green. Wash in warm water, and dry as you would leaf lettuce. Cut them up to add into a salad to distribute among the other greens. Studies indicate that bitter flavours are great for digestion and curbing sugar cravings. Eating more dandelion can be as simple as sprinkling a handful of chopped leaves into your next salad. Or use them in sandwiches like you would leaf lettuce.

The leaves can be sautéed in oil and added to casseroles or soups, or other dish of greens. Many people like the “earthy, nutty, pleasingly bitter flavour”, that has been compared to the taste of endive.

*Flowers: can be picked when they are nice and young. Remove all green from the underside, not because it’s bad for you, but because it doesn’t taste good. Toss into your salad whole. Some people batter the blossoms and deep fry them like a fritter.

Or make a dandelion iced tea. NOT kidding! It is quite delicious and refreshing. Pick lots of dandelion flower heads, wash them by gently swishing in cool water. You’ll be surprised how much dirt will settle in your water when you thought they were clean. Put them in a clean pot and pour boiling water over to cover and a few more inches. Let them steep for an hour or two till completely cooled. You can drink anywhere along the line, the only difference is gonna be whether its hot or cold, and the strength of the infusion of course. I’ve drunk it hot, room temperature and cold from the fridge. I like it all ways, but probably chilled is my favourite. Surprisingly it does not need any sweetener. I think it would be good with lemon, but I’ve never felt the need to add any.

*Roots: are good throughout the growing season. Some say they’re better in early spring, but I can’t say that I’ve noticed a difference. When digging, make sure you dig deep down to get as much of the root as possible. Cut them off the plant and soak them in water to loosen the dirt. Brush and rub together to clean, changing water as needed.

To make a coffee-like hot drink (decoction): chop into small pieces no more than 1/2 an inch. Heat your oven to 375° F, and place roots on a dry pan to toast for 20-30 minutes (depending on how many you have in the pan). I know it seems like a high temperature, but its okay – you can trust me, just don’t walk away and leave them alone. (If you’re worried about the temperature, reduce your heat to 350 degrees and expect to add a few more minutes.) Check every five minutes or so, and toss them around when they begin to toast to try to keep the toasting even. The pieces should smoke a little and give off a light chocolaty, earthy aroma while cooking. When most of them look like ‘chocolate’ pieces, and snap apart easily they are done. Allow them to cool, and then store them in an airtight jar out of sunlight.

to prepare your coffee

Use the toasted dandelion pieces as is (2 Tablespoons for 2 cups of water), bring the water to a boil and lightly brew/simmer for 10-15 minutes. Your water will reduce by about half so you’ll end up with one cup. – OR – Throw your toasted root bits into the blender and blend to a coarse crumble – (like cocoa nibs). To prepare your drink, pour boiling water over top of the nibs (1 Tablespoon to 1 cup of HOT water) and steep as you would a loose leaf herbal tea. Let it sit five minutes or longer, and test for strength and adjust your amounts according to taste. Strain, and enjoy.

For variety, consider adding a cinnamon stick or some cardamom seeds to your cup from time to time. A nice warming hot drink for a cold winter evening.

Dandelion root is often dried and consumed as a coffee substitute, but I’m told it can also be eaten in its whole form. I have never tried to eat it this way, that might be for another year. I’m just happy with what I’ve got now.

DILL

– hardy garden herb. Self seeds, but best to sow new seed every year if you want a nice dependable crop.

growing

I lightly broadcast seed once my garden beds are ready to plant.  If you have a bigger garden and can spare the room, grow dill in its own bed close together so that the stalks support each other.  I don’t have room to grow a bed of dill, so I broadcast it among other plants in my vegetable and even flower beds.  As it will grow about 3 feet tall, I like it interspersed with low plants like cucumbers. This also assists the plant with stability when the wind blows. It loves sun, and is a happy plant that is synonymous with ‘summer’ in my eyes.  Especially when its green.  For a continual harvest, sow repeatedly from early spring to early summer.  

harvesting and using

Once it starts to go to seed, it means the summer is over so I do everything I can to delay its seeding.  I pick as much of the green ferny leaves as I can throughout the growing season, trying to delay the inevitable, and using them almost daily in my meals. 

 I use most of my dill when it is green: the dill weed. I clip as much of the green leaves as I can find, coarsely chop on a board to add it to dishes at the last minute, preserving its wonderful but delicate flavour.  What I don’t use immediately, I freeze in a container to use all winter long simply by scraping out of the container with a fork and returning the remainder to the freezer.  Make the most of it with all summer produce like cucumbers, zucchini and tomatoes, and in spreads, dips and sauces. It is classic with fish, eggs and potatoes.  One of my favourite summer recipes is fresh garden potatoes boiled with a creamy dill sauce poured over top.  Adding to potato salad makes all the difference, and put lots in a creamy cucumber salad dressing.   

recipe below

recipe: Buttermilk Dill Dressing
in blender, put aprox 2 cups fresh dill weed and 1/2 cup buttermilk. Puree.
Add 1/2 cup of chopped chives, garlic chives, green onion, or chopped onion. Your choice.
Puree again.
Add 1/3 cup mayonnaise, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon sugar.
Puree again.
That’s it! Ready to pour over your fresh garden salad.
If you would a thicker creamier dressing, separate 1/2 cup dressing and stir in some plain yogurt or sour cream to it. To your desired consistency.
If you would like to make a vegetable dip:
4 oz cream cheese, softened. Beat with hand mixer till fluffy. Add dressing, a tablespoon at a time, beating between each addition. Continue until you are happy with the consistency and flavour. You might even want to add a little more chopped dill, for texture to your dip.

Although I do everything I can do to prevent my dill from going to seed, its gonna happen eventually.  The seed is very valuable in the kitchen too.  Use crushed or whole to flavour soups, sauces, breads and salad dressings. Steep the seeds in hot water to make a ‘tea’. 

Even the stem can be used and is delicious.  When small and tender, chop it up right along with the leaves.  When the plant is older and the stems are older, use them to flavour soup stock just like you’d use a bay leaf.  Add them to the cooking water of boiled potatoes.  The flowers too are edible and look beautiful in summer arrangements on my kitchen table.

Medicinal Benefits:
Seeds are steeped into a ‘tea’ to treat flatulence, digestive disorders and stomach pain.  For all these attributes it is often used to soothe colicky babies. Or a little essential oil in water would do the same thing.  Dill seeds act as breath-fresheners.

ECHINACEA (cone flower)

Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower) is a perennial flowering plant native to North America (east of the Rocky Mountains), and a very popular home garden choice. It has a large center cone, surrounded by colourful petals and it brightens up the garden in mid-summer. While considered a perennial, a healthy echinacea plant can be expected to grow from 3 – 5 years in your garden. So if you thought you had a good thing going and one spring your echinacea didn’t come back, stop taking it so personally. If planted by seed, it may reseed itself to continue its presence in your garden, but depending on so many different factors it is impossible to count on it.

Echinacea was used medicinally by the native people of North America, and adopted by settlers. It became popular for household use up until the mid 1900’s when antibiotics became the miracle drug of the 20th century, but in the last few decades it is regaining its former rockstar status, and is now commonly purchased over-the-counter as an herbal remedy.

Studies have linked echinacea to reduced inflammation. It seems to activate chemicals in the body responsible for decreasing inflammation, and is purported to have immune enhancing properties. These attributes make it a popular herb when treating upper respiratory ailments and the flu. All parts: flower, leaves and roots are believed to stimulate the body’s immune system, and are used in tablets, tinctures, extracts and teas. I’ll tell you right now, it tastes awful, so keep that in mind. I’ve never been able to disguise its yucky taste, so be prepared to buck up and get it over with. My kids used to call it “yuck-i-necea”.

growing:

I have only ever purchased my plants from a garden center, but they are kind of a pricey plant and I’ve had the disappointment several times when they didn’t come back in the spring. Evidently one can take cuttings from happy plants, as Echinacea responds well to root divisions, so I think I’ll be trying that this summer (2020). Also, I have never done it but I understand that Echinacea Purpurea (the desirable choice for medicinal properties), grows readily from seed, so I’ll be looking for seeds from my plants at the end of this growing season to start indoors next spring.
The seeds are supposed to germinate in ten to twenty days, so for me, in zone 3 that means it is better to sow indoors in containers and then transplant outside later. This also avoids competition from weeds until the plants are strong and growing well.

I have my Echinacea Purpurea in well drained soil that gets a good amount of sun. Once they were established they do well with a normal amount of watering – this year the rain sufficed. Remember, they’re indigenous so they can tough out most natural drought conditions, but they’re not a cactus or a succulent so they’re gonna do better when you give them water. To give them every chance for success, keep the weeds from competing for sun and moisture. I have them in my herb garden around some pretty aggressive plants like St John’s Wort, Borage and Feverfew. I have to go in and referee once in awhile to keep the bullies down.

Leave the plants standing through winter to feed the birds, and trim back in the spring to encourage bushier plants that bloom longer into the season. Coneflowers are prolific bloomers that will keep blooming the whole summer. Each flower remains vibrant for several weeks. Deadheading in the key, and is the primary maintenance. Keeping the plants deadheaded will ensure you keep getting more flowers.

You can use the petal, leaves and roots, but it is generally believed that the roots contain the most active compounds.

harvesting:

roots: Best to harvest in the fall, after the flowers have gone to seed and after a couple of frosts. Cut only a portion of the root so that the plant will come back in the spring. Wash the root thoroughly and then cut it into small pieces about half-inch, lay loosely on a clean tea towel in a well ventilated area and out of direct sunlight. It could take a week or more for the pieces to dry so don’t rush it. If you have a dehydrator, you’ll shorten the time. When you are certain they are completely dry, store them in an airtight glass container out of the light.

flowers and leaves: Best to harvest when they are fresh and new, right after the flowers begin to bloom. Cut each stem just above the first set of leaves. Rinse to ensure they’re free of dust and hang upside down to dry or lay them flat on a clean tea towel or screen. If hanging, tie a paper bag around the flower, as the petals will drop. When the leaves and petals are completely dry, store them in a sealed glass jar. As always, keep the jar out of the light.

using:

An infusion (herbal tea) is the best way to use the leaves and flower petals. To infuse means to steep in liquid, usually hot or warm. It is a gentle preparation usually used to extract flavour, and is what we commonly refer to as ‘tea’ when not using true “tea leaves”. An ‘herbal tea’ is always an INFUSION. Keeping it covered during the steeping, ensures the aroma doesn’t escape in the air. It can be served hot, or cooled and served chilled. For echinacea, use about a tablespoon of dried leaves and flowers to each cup of water. Steep for 15-20 minutes, strain and serve.

A decoction (coffee is more of a decoction) is prepared a little more aggressively, and is generally used for roots. It is a longer process and requires continued heat, keeping the water gently boiling. It involves the extraction of substances that an infusion cannot accomplish. For echinacea decoction, use 2 Tablespoons of dried root in 3 cups of water. Simmer for 20-30 minutes, strain and serve.

. . . . more to come

FENNEL

I’ll be honest. Fennel as an herb is relatively new to me. I’ve used fennel seeds in spaghetti sauce for years (my sister-in-law Pat shared her secret with me when we were both young married), but my son Zack recently taught me that toasting them in a hot skillet for a few minutes brings their flavour to a whole new level. I hope I am never tempted to skip this step in the future. Fennel seed has a unique herbal flavor, reminiscent to anise. Licorice-like but don’t let that turn you away if you’re not a licorice fan.

Toasting fennel seeds give off a wonderful aroma that is hard to describe – it is so wonderful. Fennel extraordinaire. Toasted, there is a nuttiness added to the flavour that they didn’t before. Zack spoke so highly about the whole “experience” that I went out and bought some seeds that very week to try it. Go ahead and do the same thing.

Fennel has a rich history. It is indigenous to the Mediterranean region where it was used anciently. Gradually it migrated east and north where it became popular in Northern Europe and the Far East. It is a main ingredient of the famous Chinese Five Spice mixture. It is used in toothpastes and as a breath freshener in India. (that does not appeal to me)
It is a member of the carrot family, and closer to parsley than it is to its very close-look-alike ‘dill’. Every part of the plant is edible and is used in very different ways.

One of my culinary and garden experiments this year (2020) is fennel. I planted only one fennel plant, but you can bet next year I will be planting a whole row next year. I’ve been using the ferny fennel fronds chopped in salads for a long time and I am looking forward to harvesting the bulb as a vegetable. This means I won’t be able to let it go to seed for harvest later, but I know I’ve got enough purchased seed on hand for now. I’ll plan to harvest seed next year.

growing:

Fennel is a poor companion in the vegetable garden and it will cross pollinate with dill so I try to keep them separate. As I broadcast dill freely, keeping them separate is a bit of a challenge. Since I am interested in fennel seed AND the bulb, and I cannot get the seed if I harvest the bulb before it seeds, it seems to me that planting it as a vegetable should be safe in my vegetable garden. Some gardeners say they grow fennel in raised beds close to vegetables as it encourages helpful predatory insects to the garden. Letting one or two of those plants go to seed so that I can harvest the seed should be sufficient for my needs. I have read as many pros to growing fennel with vegetables as I have read cautions, so I guess I’m just gonna have to learn from my own experience.

There is one rules that I will follow:
1. Dill and fennel are kissing cousins. As they are closely related, dill and fennel should not be planted near each other because they cross pollinate, and mixing will yield a very disappointing result with a bitter taste and lack of vibrancy to both.

*mature dill will stunt growth of carrots

using:

Leaves:
The feathery green leaves of fennel at first glance look like DILL, but once you see them in the garden together you’ll see that fennel is a lot more compact, and doesn’t go to seed as readily. (don’t use the word ‘together’ too literally, dill and fennel are NOT good garden companions. See above.) Clip the greenery throughout the season as needed and chop coarsely to add to salads, and other cold dishes. You can also make a lovely herbal tea with the leaves. While dill leaves lose their wonderful taste with drying, not so with fennel. So drying the leaves for winter teas is a good option.

Bulb:
I am told that you can sneak off a few outer layers of the bulb mid season without harvesting the whole plant, so you can continue to benefit from the greenery. But generally, like any root crop (although the bulb grows above ground), once you harvest the bulb – the plant is done.
Thinly slice the root bulb to use as a vegetable, fresh in salads or to lightly saute in stir fries, or to cook in other dishes.

Seeds:
Toasting the seeds brings out (and magnifies) their natural scent and flavour.
Gently grind them in a mortar and pestle to release the oil (and therefore flavour).
Add them in everything to everything Italian.
Add them with curry powder, or where you would normally use curry powder.
Add them in or on your homemade bread.

How to toast fennel seeds?
You can store them in a tightly sealed jar, but I only toast what I am going to use right away. It only takes 5 minutes and it doesn’t dirty any dishes so its quick and easy.

Heat an ungreased skillet over high heat. Once its warm, place your fennel seeds on the surface and either use a wooden spoon to stir or shake the pan to keep seeds moving so they don’t burn. Some may even ‘pop’ a little. Don’t walk away, it will only take three or four minutes. When they’ve become a nice toasty colour and are starting to become noticeably fragrant, remove from heat. Pour onto clean plate to cool. Best to remove the seeds from your skillet to prevent scorching.

as an herb
Fennel is most known for helping with digestion, probably more specifically in dealing with INdigestion, and related problems like heartburn, bloating, and colic in infants.

If you are prone to these digestive ailments, you might want to add more fennel to your diet to head them off before they occur. Having cold fennel water in the fridge to sip during the day will not only give you the benefit of fennel, but also the great benefit of adding more water to your diet – which will help immensely.

Bring 3-4 cups water to a boil, add 2 Tablespoons of fennel seed, reduce heat and simmer 10-15 minutes. Drink as a hot tea, or cool and sip as a cold drink throughout the day.
Giving a colicky infant a tablespoon or two of fennel water will help ease stomach upset and gas.
Alternatively, try steeping fennel seeds in water for a couple hours. This will give a pleasant flavour to the water and will be a refreshing drink throughout the day.
Chewing fennel seeds is also supposed to help, and many people recommend it, but this doesn’t appeal to me. I guess its all about what will work for you. Incorporate fennel into your diet in any way you can.

FEVERFEW

– Good for arthritis, fever, headaches, migraine headaches, and menstrual cramps.

My mother-in-law introduced me to Feverfew. (Not Geoff’s mom. I was lucky enough to have two mothers in law.) She was the first person I knew who grew it in her garden. She ate one leaf a day all summer long to prevent migraine headaches which she was predisposed to suffer from. She swore by it. For a couple of years, I worked in a health food store and came to know feverfew as an herbal supplement. It had good science behind it, and customers continually gave me good reviews when I asked about it. I have never had a migraine, but I have two sisters who suffered from them, and a son, so I decided to add it to my herb garden. I got my first starter plant from my mother-in-law’s garden, and its held an honoured spot there for almost three decades.

growing

Feverfew is a cheerful, ferny plant with lots of pretty small white daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. It is adaptable and low maintenance. It loves full sun and well drained soil, but is agreeable to partial shade. When the flowers are mature / ripe, their yellow centers will begin to dry and brown into seeds. I usually take two or three of these seed heads and sprinkle them among my entire garden. That will give me hundreds of volunteer pop-up plants for next summer. They are a biennial which means they flower and go to seed in their second year. They don’t come back the next spring, but lots of little feverfew babies do. Like Charlotte in E.B. White’s classic children’s tale CHARLOTTE’S WEB.

In its second year, in a favourable spot it can grow to up to 20 inches. A nice bushy, ferny plant. Feverfew is easy to remove where you don’t want it, and its easy to transplant too. Its just an easy going friend, who doesn’t take offense. I allow it to grow profusely in my herb garden, flower gardens and even a few in my vegetable garden. Just because we’re friends, and we get along well.

Feverfew is such a pretty plant, it brings me joy. The taste however, . . . it may have medicinal qualities, but it would never make it in the kitchen. That’s okay. You can’t be every thing to everybody. The taste is strong and bitter to me. My mother-in-law said she’d have to put it in a mouthful of something else to eat it. And that is exactly what I would have to do. Be creative. You only have to eat one leaf.

Feverfew is NOT a pain reliever, so don’t take it when you’re in the middle of a migraine. It is a preventative. I have never suffered from a migraine, and rarely get bad headaches, but those who take one pill a day, or one leaf a day as prevention, swear by it. It is effective in decreasing frequency and severity, and many people I have spoken to about it, say that their headaches are significantly fewer and more manageable.
It is also used to relieve chronic premenstrual cramping.

harvesting

So easy and straight forward. Best to clip from a second year plant when its in flower. If you are using feverfew fresh, it’s best to cut it as you need it. Just remove and leaf and chew it. Good luck. It taste terrible. Try doing what my mother-in-law suggested. Put it in your mouth with something better and get it over with quickly.

feverfew herb in the garden

For winter storage, cut only 1/3 of the plant to let it rejuvenate for a second same-season harvest. Cut the stems, leaving about 4 inches. Swish the stems in cool water to wash and flick off excess water. Lay the leaves flat out on a screen or clean tea towel to dry, tossing a couple of times a day till completely dry. Or if you prefer, tie feverfew branches in a bundle and allow to dry hanging upside down in a dark, ventilated and dry area.
You can also dry feverfew in a slow oven at 140 degrees F. ) or a dehydrator. Just keep an eye on it, because it won’t take as long as you might think.

I’d love to hear your thoughts on these herbs and your experience or recipes for them.
Watch for sequel posts on other herbs in the garden or in the house.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle