an unexpected experience in early Church History

In April of this year (2025), I unexpectedly got gifted a trip into Church History. My sister and brother in law had booked a group tour several months prior, but my brother in law’s health made it impossible for him to go. They invited me to take his place. With not much time to prepare, I realigned my calendar, found a few people to take my place where needed, and Wendy made the travel accommodations for me to fly instead of George. A gift that became more appreciated as every day unfolded.

Ezra’s daughter was running a race while we were waiting the our other group members. His wife was videoing it in real-time for him to watch. What a world we live in!

One week before Easter, early on Saturday morning April 12, we flew to Philadelphia to meet the rest of the group. George’s nephew (our tour guide) Ezra Gwilliam, picked us up at our predesigned meeting place.

He had had an unexpected monkey wrench thrown into his plans 48 hours previously. The 12 passenger van her reserved was no longer available in Philadelphia (apparently there’s a disclaimer in car rental contracts about this kinda thing – who knew?) and after some stressful searches, he had secured one in Cleveland Ohio! This necessitated his having to change his flight from Idaho Falls to Philadelphia, to a flight departing out of Salt Lake City arriving in Cleveland (where the van was). With only hours to spare he drove the three plus hours from Idaho Falls to Salt Lake, flew to Cleveland, then drove seven hours to Philadelphia arriving at our meeting place before we did. THANK YOU Ezra. I decided not to say anything about not having gone to bed the night before.

Saturday April 12 entry:

Very early this morning (like so early it was really the night before 🙄), I went with my sister to the airport. At 5:30 we boarded a flight for Toronto, then on to Philadelphia – where we met up with Wendy’s nephew Ezra, then a few other of her relatives (which I might add are fine people indeed).

We’re off to church in the morning and then we begin our church history tour of sacred sites guided by Ezra. This was supposed to be a trip for Wendy and George, but George is recovering from acute pneumonia and couldn’t make the trip at the last minute. So it’s a sister’s week instead. Sorry George, but thank you George.

Wendy had her first Philly Cheesesteak Sandwich, (in the city of its birth) and today I saw a new chapter of her life open up as she began a quest to find the best Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich.

I’m happy to report that her search was satisfying and she discovered that Philly Cheese Steak can look all sorts of different ways, but just as happy to report that after a few days she abandoned it. Who knew one can get too much of a good thing?

Sunday April 13 part 1:

We attended church this morning with a wonderful, friendly Philadelphia ward.
After church we changed cloths, grabbed our luggage and were off to our first destination: Valley Forge.

It was for me, an unexpectedly reverent experience. Like everyone, I was familiar with the words ’Valley Forge’ but I had no idea what it was, where it was, or the significance of it, and certainly had no visual image for it.

For those like me who might need a refresher—this was the winter encampment of 1777–78, of the Continental Army, led by George Washington, after Philadelphia fell to the British. Over 12,000 soldiers and around 400 refugee women and children arrived at Valley Forge in the bitter cold of December, many with little more than the clothes on their backs – inadequate for the weather. They set up what tents they had, and building small log huts became their first priority for survival.

I was surprised by how cold winter can be this close to the Atlantic. In fact, the April day we visited, Philadelphia was colder than Edmonton (home) — which felt ironic since we were almost 500 miles (750 km) from the Canadian border. We’d packed light and weren’t fully prepared for the chill, but that discomfort gave me a deeper sense of empathy for those who endured months of hardship here, 249 years ago. It’s one thing to read about history… it’s another to feel a shiver of it.

During that brutal winter at Valley Forge, over 1,800 people died—that’s about one in every eight who lived there. And none of them died in combat. These were deaths from privation: malnutrition, starvation, infection, and disease.

The conditions were devastating. Smallpox swept through the camp, along with influenza, dysentery, pneumonia, and typhoid. Disease, more than anything else, was the real enemy.

The biggest killer was smallpox. In a bold and controversial move, George Washington ordered the first large-scale inoculation campaign in American history—right there at Valley Forge. It was risky, experimental, and not without opposition. But it turned the tide.

This happened two decades before vaccines were widely accepted as medical prevention. Washington’s decision saved countless lives and likely changed the course of the war.

It’s hard to stand on those frozen grounds, feel that biting cold, and not be moved by the sheer resilience and sacrifice of those who endured it. I learned a lot today.

As I stood there, thinking about the harsh conditions and the staggering loss of life, I’ll admit—it was easy at first to slip into a mindset of criticism. To question the ‘wisdom’ of moving over 12,000 soldiers—and 400 women and children—into that frozen valley, so poorly equipped and unprepared for what lay ahead. But then I took a deeper look. First of all – its not like there were a lotta options.

But bigger than that, in that valley, amid the hunger, disease, and bone-deep cold… something powerful happened. That ragtag group of young boys and old men—most of them volunteers—became an army. They endured. They trained. They learned discipline, unity, and resilience. And those long, bitter months forged something stronger than just survival. They became the force that would eventually win a war—and help shape a nation.

I couldn’t help but notice some striking parallels between the experience at Valley Forge and Zion’s Camp, some 60 years later. The hardship, the sacrifice, the refining through adversity—it all feels deeply connected somehow. The thought really stuck with me. There’s something compelling about how both groups, in different times and for causes not so very different in principle, were shaped not just by what they endured, but how they endured it.

When I get home—and find a little spare time—I think I’d like to explore that connection more. I have a feeling there’s something meaningful for me there.

Sunday April 13 part 2:

Hard to believe this all fit into a single day. Church. Valley Forge, then our walk downtown.

After Valley Forge, we went to our new hotel in downtown Philadelphia. Busy place. We took a short rest while Ezra went to pick up a few others in our group from the airport. Then we gathered to take a memorable walk.

Amid the sky scrapers of 2025, we came to the beautiful Philadelphia City Hall – right out of 19th century Europe. Taking thirty years to build, it was completed in 1901, and is a sight to behold. On the top is a 37 foot statue of William Penn, the Quaker man who founded Philadelphia 343 years ago in 1682. It is still the center of city government.

Predating City Hall is the Masonic Temple originally built in 1811 and destroyed by fire is 1819. (Wouldn’t that have been heart breaking?) The current building was finished in 1873, three decades earlier than City Hall. It too is a gorgeous 19th century building.

Outside the Temple is a bronze statue called The BOND. It represents a bond between two countries and three men. “The story begins when Benjamin Franklin went to France to negotiate the involvement of the French in the American War of Independence. During this time, George Washington was Commander-in-Chief of the Continental Army. The French Alliance sent their troops, led by the Marquis de Lafayette who gifted George Washington a masonic apron, a fabric that bonds the two countries together. The monumental statue depicts George Washington presenting that apron to Benjamin Franklin. It’s breath taking.

We closed the day with dinner at READING Terminal Market (pronounce “Redding”). Similar to the Quincy Market in Boston Commons, and built in 1893, the market has over 80 merchants in it – mostly eateries. We each chose our own meals and met in the middle to eat and visit. Wendy tried another Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich. It was different but delicious she said.

It was a long and eventful day full of new experiences and a bunch of “Firsts” for me. And it was exhausting. As we bid each other good night Ezra told us that tomorrow would be lots more walking. “Our biggest walking day of the week” he said. “We’ll be leaving the hotel at 8:00.” he said. “AM!!!” lol 😉 Another short night cause I stayed up late writing.

the Bigger Picture

Though the purpose of our trip was Church History, it became clear to me that the Restoration stood on the shoulders of two other VERY big and VERY important precursors.

RERFORMATION – Beginning in the 15th century, the invention of the Gutenberg Press opened the door to the wide dissemination of knowledge through printed text. This technological breakthrough helped ignite the Reformation—a movement within Western Christianity that challenged the authority of the Catholic Church. It came at great cost, with countless brave individuals giving their lives to stand for truth, reform, and access to scripture.

The Reformation ultimately gave rise to the Protestant movement, the translation and publication of the Bible in common languages, and the rejection of many corrupt and harmful practices. It also unfolded alongside some of the darkest chapters in Christian history—the Crusades, the Spanish Inquisition, and other grievous abuses committed in the name of ‘the church’. Satan always have to have his say.

And yet, despite the horror the dam was broken. The Reformation was a vital step in preparing the world for the Restoration of the gospel. It set in motion a series of events that opened minds, challenged long-held traditions, and sparked a hunger for personal access to God and His word. By the time Joseph Smith entered the scene centuries later, the groundwork had been laid—spiritually, politically, and culturally—for the heavens to open again.

REVOLUTION – (specifically speaking of the American Revolution) was necessary to establish a nation founded on freedom, allowing for the Freedom of religion, Freedom of speech, Freedom of the press, Freedom to petition, and Freedom to peaceably assemble. Who can underestimate the importance of these points in setting the stage for the Restoration of the original Church of Jesus Christ – in these latter days?

RESTORATION – is the act of returning something to its original condition. “It is not a reformation, which alters something existing to create something new. For example, if you wanted to restore an old house, you would rebuild it with the same layout that it had originally.” 1

The “Restoration of the gospel” refers to Jesus Christ restoring the fulness of His gospel, priesthood authority, and the organization of His Church to the earth through the Prophet Joseph Smith and later prophets.

The courage of reformers who dared to question established religious authority, translate sacred texts, and seek divine truth helped create a world where personal revelation could flourish. It’s no coincidence that the Restoration began in a land founded on principles of religious freedom and individual liberty—principles dreamed of by the early reformers and established by those who fought in the revolutionary war.

The cradle of the Restoration began in the early 1800’s in a time of great public excitement on the subject of religion. Historically referred to as the Second Great Awakening, it was a Protestant religious revival during the late 18th to early 19th century in the United States. It spread religion, sparked a number of reform movements and attracted hundreds of converts to new Protestant denominations.

From the printing press to the First Vision, God’s hand can be seen in every era—guiding, preparing, and patiently unfolding His work “line upon line.” The Restoration was not an isolated event; it was (and is) the culmination of generations of seeking, struggling, and slowly returning to the pure gospel of Jesus Christ.

Monday, April 14 Philadelphia

We started this day by visiting the Philadelphia Temple, right in the heart of Philadelphia, surrounded by historic buildings and modern skyscrapers – not at all where I would’ve expected it to be. 😊

We wandered the grounds and through the beautiful visitor center, and on the roof of the visitor center too. All temples are so unique to where they are and certainly this one is true to the old style architecture of this beautiful city.

And of course we benefited from some teaching while on the site.
What a great start to a great day!

From the Temple we went to see the Liberty Bell. I admit I’ve heard of the Liberty Bell and could even identify it in pictures. I even knew it had crack in it. But I couldn’t have told you anything else about it: where it came from? what about that crack? or that it ‘lives’ in Philadelphia. Or what exactly it represents.

Decades before revolution was ever seriously considered, the huge bell was commissioned from London by the Pennsylvania assembly to commemorate the 50th anniversary of William Penn’s “Charter of Privileges”.

The well respected pacifist Quaker William Penn was one of the great champions of religious freedom in the 17th century, who helped preserve the greatly persecuted Quaker religion that still survives. He founded the city of Philadelphia in 1682, carefully choosing its name from two Greek words ‘philos’ meaning ‘beloved or loving, and ‘adelphos’ meaning brother or brotherly. It was his hope it would become a city of religious tolerance and freedom – “the city of brotherly love”.

He’s known today as the father of democracy though he died 80 years before it became a reality, and Thomas Jefferson said of him that he was “the greatest lawgiver the world has produced”. Someone worth honouring in my opinion, so I’m glad to hear that he was being honoured, and I am personally glad to have made his acquaintance. I think I’ll make it a point to learn more about him in the near future.

Commissioned in 1751 the bell was intended to hang in the steeple of the State House, its inscription: “Proclaim LIBERTY throughout all the Land unto all the inhabitants thereof,” from Leviticus 25:10. Shortly after it arrived from England, it developed a huge crack in it. Attempts were made to repair it, but they never worked. The crack became symbolic, as the fracture between the United States and England grew stronger – proving irreparable. Though it hasn’t been rung in 250 years, it nevertheless became a rallying cry for those fighting against tyranny and injustice, and eventually a symbol of the fight against slavery.

***

From the Liberty Bell, we went across the street to the Museum of American Revolution (MOAR). I loved the concept of the museum – “uncovering and sharing compelling stories about the diverse people and complex events that sparked America’s ongoing experiment in liberty, equality, and self government”.

* While I was in the museum reading of some of those diverse everyday people, I got a message to call a friend from home. He told me Dan had had an accident while playing pickle ball in the gym at the stake center. He fell backwards, hit his head on the stage and knocked himself out. His friends called an ambulance.

How grateful I was that such good caring people were there to help him, and to put up with his dismissive joking (his coping strategy for times of stress). They administered to him and the EMTs attending him spoke to me to get some medical information.

Of course I started bawling – because that is what I do best, and because I know that life can change that quickly, and because I knew that I had three kids, and a nephew all relatively close by, who would help Dan and take care of their gramma in his absence. I knew that he was being taken to the hospital, which was the best place for him to be. I also marveled that I could be reached by phone so quickly, even though it was still on airplane mode – upon entering the museum I had immediately accessed their available Wi-Fi, and Gord must have had an Iphone like I did. I was grateful for the people I was with who were so kind, and I was grateful for my ward at home who had been alerted. So grateful for the blessing of COMMUNITY. Grateful for God’s hand in all that transpired. And grateful that at the end of the day Dan was home safe and sound, and that mom was home too, safely in her bed.

It was a good day. Was that really only one day!?

On a lighter note:
at the end of it, we were in Scranton Pennsylvania as I said goodnight to Dan. I guess I knew that Scranton was a real place, but it’s only ever existed on TV for me. Weirdly funny.

Tuesday April 15 – from Harmony Pennsylvania to Fayette New York

a needlepoint sampler embroidered by Emma when she was 9 years old

Today we visited three homes – very significant sites in church history. The homes are:

1. The Isaac & Elizabeth Hale home in Harmony, Pennsylvania

2. The Joseph and Emma Smith home in Harmony Pennsylvania.

3. The Peter and Mary Whitmer home in Fayette, New York.

Isaac and Elizabeth Hale:

We started out in what used to be the small village of Harmony, Pennsylvania. This was where the well-to-do and influential farmer Isaac and Elizabeth Hale and family lived. We visited the Hale home, very beautiful, and large for the time. Interestingly, it was built right beside a road, previously a foot path, then a wagon trail, then a full scale thoroughfare. It’s surprising to me how close a busy road comes up to some houses down there.

The young Joseph Smith boarded with the Hales for a few weeks (staying in a log cabin on their property) while working in the area and it was during that time he met Emma, their daughter. They later married.

the Hale home was beautiful, painstakingly restored to what it likely looked like in 1829

The Joseph and Emma Smith home in Harmony

One year into their marriage they came to visit Emma’s parents to pick up her belongings and were invited to stay, eventually purchasing a part of the farm with a charming little clapboard house on it. In that cute little house (built by Emma’s older brother) and which Emma and Joseph had every reason to expect would be the home they raised their future children in – the serious work of translation commenced.

Much happened while they lived in that adorable little red clapboard house. It was a time of the most intense of emotions – the happiest of times to the bitterest of times:

* Martin Harris wrote while Joseph dictated day after day.
* Reluctantly Joseph allowed Martin to borrow the translated 116 pages to show his wife and a select few others.
* Joseph’s and Emma’s first baby was born early and died within the hour, Emma nearly lost her life as a complication
* Martin lost the translated pages, Joseph was devasted.
* Joseph sorely chastised – a lesson never to be forgotten. Lost the privilege of translating for a season. …

After months of deepest sorrow, Joseph at length regained the privilege of translating the sacred record, Emma’s health improved and she began writing for him. Joseph prayed for a full time scribe. Oliver Cowdery arrived with Joseph’s younger brother Samuel. Samuel set to work around the farm, and Oliver put quill to paper as Joseph dictated.

The work started again in earnest and progressed rapidly. As doctrine unfolded, Joseph and Oliver had questions. From questions came revelation. With progress came persecution. A circle that Joseph would come to know over and over again.

These are stories with which I was very familiar. I love them, and I learn more from them as I come to understand the details better. But to be in the homes, … to be there and see where it all happened. . . . to envision scenes in my mind’s eye that took place there … well, there is such a thing as “spirit of place”.

To Be IN the place, one can allow themselves to feel the “spirit of place”.

Take an extra minute to enjoy this video about Emma
sung by Mindy Gledhill, on the Nashville Tribute to the Prophet album

Susquehanna River

We enjoyed tremendous “spirit of place” today in Harmony Pennsylvania. And before we moved on to New York State, we visited the Susquehanna River.

This is where Joseph and Oliver were baptized. There was a beautiful spirit of place there. It was a little chilly, but we had a lovely lesson about what happened there, and sang a baptism song 🎶. Or more accurately, Karen sang the song. I thought I videoed her singing but I didn’t. There is a good spirit that attends such music. It was beautiful.

We went into the sugar bush (which is essentially a maple grove where they used to extract syrup). Here the priesthood of Aaron was restored to the earth on May 15 1829 through John the Baptist (yes, that John). Sometime in the days that followed, the Melchizedek priesthood was also restored, by Peter James and John (yes, that Peter, James and John). Where? Somewhere in THIS stand of woods – where this day we waundered freely and contemplated all that had happened there.

We walked to the nearby cemetery where nearly 200 years prior, Emma’s first baby was laid to rest after only an hour of this world’s air. Isaac and Elizabeth Hale were buried here as well. Cemeteries can be very special places.

from Harmony we drove north into New York to the Peter and Mary Whitmer Farm

The Pennsylvania Dutch – Whitmer family, had a large family and a beautiful successful farm. They lived in this long cabin.

They knew about Joseph Smith only through reputation from their brief acquaintance with Oliver Cowdery who at the time had not yet even met him. And yet (being God fearing people), the Lord touched their hearts, and as persecution in Harmony had grown so intense so as to not allow it the ‘work’ to continue, they opened up their home to Joseph and Oliver to complete the translation of the plates. So much for ‘harmony’.

I have always felt sorry for the weight that Martha (in the New Testament) carried trying to host the Saviour when he came to visit her family in Bethany. As thrilled as she may have been to host him, he didn’t travel alone so it fell on her to feed and house several additional people on any given day. We know her story; she was burdened, and her sister …. not so burdened.

the main room of the Whitmer farmhouse, in which the Church was formerly organized

That’s how I feel about Mary Whitmer. First it was Joseph and Oliver, then Emma arrived. Then his parents came to visit. And Martin Harris. And others. There was always somebody coming to see the prophet. And though the Whitmer men worked at the usual farm chores, it fell to Mary to feed every one. Milk the cows, take care of the chickens, make the bread and the butter, make the meals, clean the house, do the laundry. She had hired a young woman who worked with her thank goodness, but the work was endless.

in the Whitmer home, the upper room given to Joseph and Oliver to finish their work of translation

On her way out to milk the cows one particularly heavy day, Mary was greeted by a stranger near the barn, who called her by name, and said he understood the burden she carried. He introduced himself as Moroni, an unusual name, but one with which she was not unfamiliar. He told her this extra burden would be over soon and he opened her eyes and mind to the great work that she was involved in. She saw for herself the plates with the writings on them – becoming their fourth witness.

the time capsule with the marble statue and the plaque

The original three witnesses (Oliver Cowdery, Martin Harris, and David Whitmer) saw the golden plates in June of 1829 near the home of Peter Whitmer Sr. in Fayette, New York.

It was a defining moment in her life, and in her future. The part that her family eventually played in the early days of the restoration became very important. Nearly 200 years later we still know them.

On Sunday April 6, 1980 President Spencer W Kimball broadcasted his General Conference message from the Fayette home of Peter and Mary Whitmer, 150 years exactly from the day the church was organized in their home.

We are here, this lovely Easter morning, in the reconstructed farmhouse of Peter Whitmer, Sr.” he said. “It has been faithfully restored for this occasion to bring to us anew the recollection of the all-important and significant event which occurred here a century and a half ago. In the years to come, it will be visited by good people from over the earth who will wish to stand where I stand today.2 When I re-listened to that address (link in the footnotes), I realized that I AM one of those “good people [who would] wish to stand where [he stood]. And that in fact I did stand in that very spot.

Elder Gordon B. Hinckley then read “the Proclamation” for the first time on that day. From it he read “We solemnly affirm that The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is in fact a restoration of the Church established by the Son of God, when in mortality he organized his work upon the earth; that it carries his sacred name, even the name of Jesus Christ; that it is built upon a foundation of Apostles and prophets, he being the chief cornerstone; …”

We testify” read Elder Hinckley “that the spirit of prophecy and revelation is among us. “We believe all that God has revealed, all that He does now reveal, and we believe that He will yet reveal many great and important things pertaining to the Kingdom of God” (A of F 1:9). The heavens are not sealed; God continues to speak to his children through a prophet empowered to declare his word, now as he did anciently.”

President Kimball put several important objects in a time capsule to be opened 50 years later at the bicentennial celebration. That is only 5 years from now. It’s hard to believe I witnessed that 1980 broadcast not really understanding the significance of the Whitmer farmhouse, nor realizing the effort put into restoring it, not to mention the blessing that doing so would be to tens of thousands of people like me, over the next fifty years – not to mention the blessing it would be to me personally. It was humbling to realize that in all likelihood I will also witness (through the miracle of technology) that time capsule being opened again.
COOL!

a new-to-me picture of the Saviour which I first saw in the Visitors Center at Fayette. I do not know the artist

Wednesday, April 17 – Palmyra

the upper room where Moroni visited Joseph while his brothers slept

This morning, we went to the Smith farm just outside of Palmyra. We first visited the log house where the family lived at the time of the first vision and Moroni’s visit three years later in one of the upper bedrooms.

It stands on the same foundation as the original log house, and there was a strong spirit of place.

We visited the clapboard house that Alvin started building before he died. It took the family two years to finish the house after his passing. It was there the family lived when Joseph married Emma and brought her home to live, and when he received the plates from Moroni.

  • We did a little backtracking chronologically on our tour as we had come from the south. Much of what happened in the clapboard house, happened BEFORE Joseph and Emma moved to Harmony (where we had been the day prior).

The clapboard house is original though restored, while the log cabin is completely rebuilt on the original foundation, using logs from other buildings in the area that were dated to the same time. * there is a small barn on the site right now that was actually a barn that Brigham Young and his father built. It was dismantled and moved to the Smith farm a few years ago. It’s in the background of the picture with Wendy standing in front of the tree. The tree by the way, is what has been called ‘a witness tree’ – one that has been there for about 200 years. Oh what it has seen!

the clapboard house that Alvin started to build before he died

It was while living in the clap board house, Joseph called together those men who would become known as the Eight Witnesses who saw the gold plates near the Smith home on July 2, 1829. They stated that they “hefted” and “handled” the plates, seeing the engravings.

on this table sit a replica of the gold plates – weighing an estimated 48 pounds I believe, and wrapped in a linen cloth. I took the time to lift them, considering that on the occasion that Joseph fetched them from a hiding place he had secured them, he ran over three miles with them, being attacked at least twice. He had dislocated his thumb when he arrived home, much agitated by his experience and physically exhausted.
Many know that Lucy Mack Smith was an excellent artisan and often made table coverings, and even rugs from oil cloth, painting them. Often times her daughters would join her, and they would sell their wears at markets in town to earn extra money. ‘Oil cloth’ was linen coated with linseed oil creating a type of canvas. It was these finished oil cloths that Lucy painted. Though none of Lucy’s original work has survived, one of these pictures has a floor covering, made of oil cloth very similar to what she would’ve made.

It was shockingly cold today in the Canandaigua area. The windchill was bitter. I cannot remember any April day in Alberta that was colder 😳. Neither Wendy not I came prepared for this type of cold. Truth be told, I thought I was heartier than I actually am. But this was ‘New England cold’. It’s in a class all to itself. If I had it to redo, I’d have brought a hoodie for one more layer.

Nashville Tribute to the Prophet song ‘the Prayer’. Enjoy

The printing of the Book of Mormon

Martin Harris – had a beautiful and prosperous farm of 320 acres. Unlike most in the area who were relative new comers, he had moved there as a youth and had begun clearing the land with his father. He eventually inherited it, fand continued to improve as an older man. He married and raised his family on it. Two families actually, as he’d remarried after Lucy died and had more children with Caroline Young (niece of Brigham Young).

Martin sold 1/2 of his farm, 150 acres to pay the mortgage he took out to cover the $3000 for the first printing of the Book of Mormon. He had hoped to pay off that mortgage with proceeds from the book. sold for $1.75 each, but they didn’t sell. The anti Mormon sentiment was strong in and around Palmyra at that time, and there was an unofficial boycott on buying the new book. To provide perspective, $1.75 in 1830 would be equivalent to over $59 today. That’s a BIG ask to buy a book that you’re mildly curious about.

The price was lowered to $1.25 but it didn’t sell at that price either. Martin had been confident that when the book was finally printed and people read it for themselves, ‘their eyes would be opened and they would see and feel what he saw, and felt. All the opposition would dissolve.’ He underestimated the power of the adversary that would hound the progress from that time forward.

His Palmyra home is still there, still beautiful and currently serving as a missionary home. I believe he and Caroline would be pleased to know that. I hope that from Lucy Harris’ current vantage point, she too would be pleased.

Printing the book of Mormon was an ambitious project – to put it mildly. To add some perspective, the largest printing of a first edition book in the nation was the “Scarlet Letter” in 1850 of 2500 copies written by an established and proven author. Joseph insisted on double that. The second Book of Morning printing was only 7 years later in Kirtland, Ohio.

Most books printed at the time were paperbacks with no artwork, even on the cover, looking pretty much all alike – hence the term “don’t judge a book by its cover”. Joseph, however, had a different vision. He insisted the book have a hardcover and be leather bound – as this was no ordinary book. He wanted it to match the popular Bible at the time – printed by the American Bible Society, intending them to be companion books sitting on the shelf together. We all know it was never his intent that the book of Mormon replace the Bible.

To give E.B. Grandin the credit he deserves, he took on a monumental task – in every way. It was a risk to take on the work, as the opposition among his peers was strong; I believe that few among us today would risk it. He refused the job at first, not because of public opinion, but because of the sheer magnitude of the job. Inexplicably he had a change of heart, and when Joseph and Martin approached him again after having already found an agreeable printer in Rochester, he accepted.

He was no friend to the Mormons, but he was a fair and honest man. 5000 copies was a huge undertaking, especially for a relatively small printer and especially for a first printing, especially a book so heavily opposed by the public, with little chance of selling (which was generally how money was made back in the printing business). He quoted a steep price and insisted the full amount be paid in advance, but by today’s standards that is not uncommon when capital is needed for a job. Grandin had to buy the material, and hire the additional people he would need. Plus he had invested in a new press that he was anxious to pay off.

5000 copies for $3000
20 people working
10 hours a day
6 days a week
7 months to finish the Book of Mormon

In the end, it would cost half of the Martin Harris farm, be the biggest contract of Grandin’s career, and would in fact, become the most important book ever published on this continent, immortalizing the name “E.B. Grandin” for these 200 years.

I loved visiting the E.B. Grandin Building. I’d been there once before with Luke, the summer he turned 15. It was great to be back. A guide explained the process of the printing and binding step by step – demonstrating it all. I picked up information that I had missed before. In the restoration of the building, every effort has been made to ensure that the building was restored to its former state – as much as possible. The dark wooden plank floor in the book shop was all original, meaning that we stood exactly where key figures stood: Joseph, Martin, Oliver, Hyrum, Egbert Grandin himself and so many more. A tremendous spirit of place within those walls!

There were some people who lived in that area, whose hearts were ready. There were many, whose hearts were not. Joseph said more than once that he understood how difficult it was for people to believe what he was saying. He admitted that he himself might not have believed it, had he not seen with his own two eyes. Palmyra was the place the “Rising” began. The rising of everything. The Good, the Bad, the Glorious and yes, the Ugly.

Afterward we had a chance to visit the independent LDS bookstore a few doors down from the printer. It is called THIS IS THE PLACE. If you know me you’ll not be surprised to know I love bookstores, especially independent LDS bookstores 😉. I bought a new book 📕. Okay I may have purchased more than one.

And we went to a local independent ice cream shop. It was our coldest day so far but we bought ice cream anyway, because . . . . it was ice cream! And it was great. And I highly recommend you add it to your trip to Kirtland, if you ever go there.

Hill Cumorah

Wednesday was a bitter cold day – our coldest yet, and we did as much as we could do inside. But visiting the Hill Cumorah is definitely an outdoor thing, and NOT TO BE MISSED – after coming as far as we did.

There was no escaping the cold as we climbed to the top (which I’ll be honest – is not that high) as there was no shelter from the wind💨. And I did not bring the a hoodie or gloves with me. We all layered, I wore two shirts and a scarf under my jacket.

But the walk in the wind was worth it.

The things that happened on this hill! There is a monument on top, to tell all the significance of it and why we hold this ground in such reverence. 202 years ago somewhere on this hill, the young Joseph was guided to a spot and directed to remove a stone, under which had been deposited a stone box 📦. In that box he saw metal plates that appeared to be fashioned of gold and upon which was written the history of the former inhabitants of this continent. He did not remove the plates at that time but eventually was given them for a time – ushering in events that neither he nor his family could have imagined, and that effectually changed the world in ways many might not even realize.

In 1915, Willard and Rebecca Bean were sent as a missionary couple to live at the Joseph Smith farm in Palmyra, the first members of the church to live in this town in eighty-four years. They were told to expect to stay there between three and five years; they ended up staying from 1915 – 1940, just shy of 25 years.

They raised their children there, made friends where there had only been enemies, and Willard was instrumental in acquiring additional properties of historical significance to the church, including the Hill Cumorah.

All these things were worth thinking about, and though it tried, the cold did not take away the spirit of place for me. I hope you come here one day.

And I hope it’s warmer for you than it was us this time.

Thursday April 17, arriving in Kirtland – this morning it was all about water

We started out early from Palmyra for our longest drive so far – to Niagara Falls. Ezra taught till we crossed the border. Apparently the falls are more spectacular to view from the Canadian side, and I admit it was kind of nice to be back in Canada if even just briefly.

I had seen the falls before, once with Luke many years ago, once with Dan many more years ago. But never in the early spring. Each season is sure different. Lots of ice still on the water right now. It was amazing to me that there could EVER be ice with the violence of those falls. Must be a very fast moving current under that ice.

From there, we headed to Kirkland, but on the way we made a surprise stop in a place called Fairport Harbor Ohio. I’m so glad we stopped there. There was nothing much to see, just the cold water of Lake Erie but HERE on the spot we stood, walked thousands of immigrants and refugees coming from all points east and north on their way to gather with other converts in Kirtland.

All saints who came to Kirtland on the waterway landed at Fairport Harbor, 11 miles south of Kirtland. From there, they would walk the rest of the way, arriving as refugees with the clothes on their back and what little else they could carry.

Over the next few years, literally thousands of latter-day Saints converged on Kirtland, most coming via Lake Erie.

The Saints gathered, feeling the powerful draw to Zion—to be with others who believed as they did. But consider the perspective of those who stood by and watched them come. There must have been a fair amount of uneasiness.

On one hand, these early members of the newly restored Church had answered a call from God, leaving behind homes, farms, businesses, friends, and often – extended families. From the very beginning, they had faced intense persecution, which naturally taught them to become insular—to rely on each other for survival and support.

It’s human nature to stick close to your own kind, especially after enduring discrimination. But to those on the outside looking in, that tight-knit bond may have looked like aloofness—or worse, entitlement. And when a group begins to firmly set down roots in an established community, that perception can easily breed tension. And not surprisingly, tension did begin to simmer.

To be fair to the residents of Kirtland and the surrounding area, the sudden influx of Saints likely felt overwhelming. Imagine the strain: limited jobs, scarce housing, and an economic system unprepared to absorb hundreds—eventually thousands—of newcomers, many of whom arrived destitute. It’s not unlike the pressures modern communities feel today when faced with the arrival of refugees or large migrant groups. While compassion is often the goal, there is a cost. The realities of limited resources and economic stress can complicate even the best intentions. Sound familiar?

Take a minute to listen to this song (above) on the Nashville Tribute to Joseph cd. maybe do yourself a favour and listen to it again and maybe even again. I love it. It’s talking about the people who came to Kirtland.

They came with little more than their faith, their work ethic, and a desire to build a better future—one where they could worship God according to the dictates of their own conscience. In some cases, though, the mix of those two groups—the Saints and the existing settlers—was difficult.

I’m not here to take sides. I’m just saying . . . maybe the so-called “bad guys” in the story had their own perspective, too. But even acknowledging that fairly, the fear and resentment that grew would spread, and soon lead to terrible consequences: more persecution, abuse, and even murder.

Thursday April 17, part 2 – what happened on the John Johnson Farm in Hiram, Ohio?

30 miles south of Kirtland Ohio is the farming community of Hiram. We drove there to visit the John Johnson Farm. Yes, it’s out of the way, and because of that, many visitors don’t take the time for it, but if you’re considering going to Kirtland, to miss the John Johnson farm is to miss a very important chapter in church history.

The Johnsons moved to Ohio, driven west in 1818 after “the year without a summer”3, coincidentally the same time the Smith family moved to upstate New York, for the same reason. To find a better place to farm and to build a life. (to find out more about this see the footnotes)

Like most settlers (including the Smiths) they lived in a log cabin while they cleared the land. In time they established a good and profitable dairy farm making and selling cheese near and far.

this stencilled oil cloth floor covering (bottom right image) was very popular in the day; the same type that Lucy Mack Smith and her daughters painted and sold in the Palmyra area

They built a beautiful home which Elsa decorated with bright and vibrant colours and interesting stencilled motifs on the walls and floors.

The bright colours remind me of how brave my mother-in-law was in her decorating. She was cutting-edge on new colours and designs., and she put my conservative nature to shame. It woke me up though to be more aware of colour, and to take chances in my personal decorating. I found myself really taken by Elsa Johnson’s use of colour and even in the way she chose to decorate wood surfaces she did not paint. This must have been a very unique house in it’s day.

notice the decorative scrolling that was done on the woodwork of the doors. Typical Elsa Johnson.

The Johnsons were a prayerful family, well versed in scripture and looking for a restoration of principles as taught by Jesus in the New Testament. They were introduced to the church through their 19 year old son Lyman who’d recently been baptized, and upon reading the Book of Mormon were converted themselves. You may remember that Elsa had a lame arm. She sought out Joseph in Kirtland believing he could heal her. He did. And the Johnsons were baptized soon after.

Not long after that meeting, the Johnsons invited Joseph and Emma to live in their home, giving Joseph a quieter place to work with fewer interruptions. They converted their main floor parlour into a bedroom for them and gave up their own upstairs bedroom to serve as an office—effectively turning their home into Church headquarters for the year Joseph and Emma stayed, from September 1831 to September 1832.

It was a huge sacrifice on the Johnsons’ part, making so many personal concessions. But in doing so, they had a front-row seat to some truly remarkable events in Church history!

notice again the decorative scrolling on the woodwork around the fireplace, and the huge ‘modern’ indoor oven Elsa had that could bake several loaves of bread at the same time.

Up to this point, the revelations Joseph had received were written individually on separate pieces of paper. Missionaries preparing to go out into the field would stop by and carefully copy down some of the revelations by hand, so they could take them along to teach from. But as the Church grew and more missionaries were called, it became clear that this system wasn’t going to be enough. There was an urgent need for the revelations to be organized, preserved, and made widely available in a single volume—a project that would eventually become known as the Book of Commandments, the predecessor to today’s Doctrine and Covenants. In November 1831, a conference of elders gathered at the Johnson home in Hiram, Ohio, and officially agreed to move forward with the project.

Oliver Cowdery and John Whitmer carried the manuscripts of the revelations to Independence, Missouri, a distance of over 800 miles – 1300 kilometres. It was to be printed as the Book of Commandments by William W. Phelps, a skilled printer and new convert given the job of overseeing the printing work of the Church’s press in Independence.4 

Joseph and Sidney continued their work, producing more precious pages of inspired work. Approximately twenty revelations were received while in the Johnson home, including a vision so glorious it became known among the members of the church as simply “THE VISION.” We now know it as section 76: the vision of 3 kingdoms of glory in the afterlife: Celestial, Terrestrial, and Telestial.

This revelation was received and recorded on Feb 26 1832, and when it was first shared, it left many Saints in awe – some even in shock. It stretched their understanding beyond the traditional teaching they had grown up with, and it caused no small disturbance among local ministers. Instead of the simple heaven-or-hell divide, The Vision revealed a merciful and beautifully layered view of eternity, where nearly all of God’s children would inherit a degree of glory. For some, it was almost too much to take in. A few struggled with the idea that salvation could reach so many. But for many others, it expanded their hope and deepened their faith in a loving and just Heavenly Father.

It was a moment that marked a major turning point in the unfolding Restoration—a glimpse into the grandeur and mercy of God’s eternal plan. It also marked a major stumbling block for many outside the church.

One month after this revelation—on the night of March 25—tragedy struck. As Joseph and Emma lay exhausted, caring for their infant twins who were still recovering from the measles, an enraged mob stormed the Johnson home under cover of darkness. They seized Joseph, dragging him from his bed and pulling him outside into the cold night.

the main floor bedroom occupied by Joseph, Emma and the twins

At the same time, another group broke into the Johnsons’ former log cabin across the street, where Sidney Rigdon was living. They grabbed him by the heels, violently dragging him out and slamming his head against the frozen ground—injuries from which he would suffer for the rest of his life.

They were beaten, stripped, tarred and feathered, and left for dead. Why? Because evidently “light and truth stir up darkness.” Their baby boy – Joseph Murdock Smith, died five days later from the effects of that horrific night, their fourth child to die. Section 76 came to the world at a high price. It occurred to me that I should know it better. I’m committed to do so.

We closed our day at the John Johnson Farm. It is a reverent place.

When you have a minute listen to this song 🎵 sung by Jason Deere on the steps that Joseph was drug out of on that terrible night. You may recognize it. Jason wrote it.

Friday in Kirtland part 1 – morning at the Temple site

Ending our week in Kirtland, Ohio was a perfect choice (not that I can take any credit for it), and spending a full day here wrapped up our study of the first chapters of the restoration beautifully. FYI if you ever want a referral for an excellent church history educator / tour guide, I highly recommend Ezra Gwilliam, who teaches Church History at BYU-I.5

The day previous, we stopped in at Fairport Harbor and spent considerable time at the John & Elsa Johnson farm – so today we had the whole day to dedicate to the Kirtland sites with our main focus being the Temple. Good planning Ezra!

We got to sleep in this morning since the Visitor’s Centre didn’t open until 10 (much appreciated since I was spending my nights writing!). After a week of staying up late I was more than happy for an extra hour of zzzzz’s.

We started the day with some private instruction just outside the Visitor’s Centre, in a beautiful area with benches perfectly designed for moments like that. From there, we walked over to the cemetery, where we learned about Oliver Granger – buried there. You might be somewhat familiar with his name as I was, but I had no idea about his full story or what he’s known for. I’m so glad to have “met” him through this visit. His calling was pretty unique, and he really is one of the unsung heroes of the Restoration. Not ‘unsung’ for me anymore—I look forward to learning more about him, and I’ll probably share some of what I discover along the way.

Notice the ‘R’ on the far right of his name

This is what the Lord said about him: “I remember my servant Oliver Granger; behold, verily I say unto him that his name shall be had in sacred remembrance from generation to generation, forever and ever, saith the Lord. Therefore, let him contend earnestly for the redemption of the First Presidency of my Church, saith the Lord; and when he falls he shall rise again, for his sacrifice shall be more sacred unto me than his increase, saith the Lord.” (DC 117: 12,13)

This headstone of Oliver Granger’s made me smile. Notice the ‘R’ on the far right. How would you like to have been the guy who chiseled that name, only to find out too late, you didn’t leave enough room? sigh . . . . .

about Oliver Granger by John Hilton III

The Visitor’s Centre bytheway is beautiful and was not there when Luke and I visited twenty years ago. The Temple and site directly around and near it, had until recently been owned by the Community of Christ, and was not as accessible to visitors when we were there. Just over a year ago (March 2024), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints purchased the temple and surrounding area, opening it up to people such as us.

a little bit of background for context:

Soon after the Church was restored, opposition in and around Fayette, New York, became so intense that it was no longer safe for the Saints to remain. Before the year ended, they were commanded to “assemble together at the Ohio” (D&C 37:3).

On January 2, 1831, the Lord spoke again, telling them, “There will I give unto you my law,” and promised that they “shall be endowed with power from on high” (D&C 38:32).

The Restoration, as we’ve come to understand, is not a single event but a process. The Lord gave the early Saints, just as He does for us today, “line upon line, precept upon precept” as they were ready to receive more. I LOVE this idea of God teaching incrementally—“a gradual unfolding of truth and understanding… as each new truth builds upon the previous one.” It’s a reminder that we are always in a continuous process of spiritual growth, and as President Nelson frequently reminds us, the Restoration is a “continual” restoration.

The Lord had more spiritual endowments to restore, but some revelations, gospel ordinances, and covenants are so sacred, He permits us to receive them only in special places we call temples. These are literally and metaphorically “houses of the Lord”—places set apart from the world. Throughout history, the Lord has commanded His people to build temples, and the first in this dispensation would be the Temple in Kirtland, Ohio.

I took this picture because it spoke to me. It is the scene Emma could gaze upon from her kitchen window.

Construction began in 1833, built during a time of extreme poverty—poverty that’s difficult for us to even comprehend. Despite this, the Saints worked diligently to fulfill the commandment to build the temple. Eliza R. Snow later wrote, “With very little capital except brain, bone, and sinew, combined with unwavering trust in God, men, women, and even children, worked with their might.”

The temple quickly became the center of everyone’s focus. Lucy Mack Smith recalled that it became “the main spring to all our thoughts”.

And finally, after three years of tireless effort, immense energy, and tremendous sacrifice—while being constantly guarded against threatening mobs and vandals—the temple was completed. It was dedicated on March 27, 1836. Following that dedication, a spiritual outpouring, unlike anything ever recorded before or since took place, hundreds of witnesses bearing record in journals and letters. Sacred revelations given in that hallowed space, have become scripture to us.

When Luke and I had been there in 2005, the public was only permitted on the main floor of the Temple, the second and third levels and stairs leading up to them hadn’t been restored, and we were told they were unsafe at the time. Nevertheless, there was a powerful “spirit of place” there for both of us. We were not permitted to bring in scriptures or hymnbooks, or to take any photos, but the guide allowed us to sing acapella when we asked. Our group all those years ago, sang the first verse of W. W. Phelps song THE SPIRIT OF GOD, written for that occasion.

“The Spirit of God like a fire is burning”
The latter day glory begins to come forth;
The visions and blessings of old are returning;
And angels are coming to visit the earth.
We’ll sing and we’ll shout with the armies of heaven:
Hosanna, hosanna to God and the Lamb!
Let glory to them in the highest be given,
Henceforth and forever: amen and amen!
The Lord is extending the saints’ understanding—
Restoring their judges and all as at first;
The knowledge and power of God are expanding
The veil o’er the earth is beginning to burst.
We’ll call in our solemn assemblies, in spirit,
To spread forth the kingdom of heaven abroad,
That we through our faith may begin to inherit
The visions, and blessings, and glories of God.
How blessed the day when the lamb and the lion
Shall lie down together without any ire:
And Ephraim be crown’d with his blessing in Zion,
As Jesus descends with his chariots of fire!”

Fun fact: I have since learned of three verses of this song, included in the 1836 hymnal that are no longer in our current hymnbook, and I have little doubt they were all sung at the original dedication.

Another fun fact: I don’t know why I was surprised to learn this, but THE SPIRIT OF GOD is also in the hymnal of the Community of Christ. Duh. Of course it would be – we share that part of our early history.

There is a spirit that attends the singing of such songs. One of my favourite scriptures reads “For my soul delighteth in the song of the heart; yea, the song of the righteous is a prayer unto me, and it shall be answered with a blessing upon their heads.” (DC 25:12) I have often felt a “blessing on my head” as I sing or listen to good music, and I can say that we were indeed blessed that Friday when we sang this favourite song again in THAT place where 189 years earlier, the spirit of God ‘burned like a fire, when visions of old returned and angels literally came to earth. Where the Lord extended His saints’ understanding, and the veil that day literally burst.’

I know I always talk about “spirit of place” – but in places like this – it is easier to feel the spirit when you pause and reflect, and remind yourself “This is where it happened. In this very room. They walked the floor I’m standing on. It really did happen and I am in that place.”

As I walked the grounds I noticed that many trees were exceptionally big – some easily over a hundred years old, possibly older. Trees that old are often called “witness trees” I’m told, and thinking about that made me look at them different. What have they witnessed? If trees could talk eh?

When we left the temple we visited the (newly acquired as of March last year) former home of Joseph and Emma, just a short walk north of the temple site. They lived there while the temple was being built and from Emma’s kitchen window she could watch the progress. What a wonderful thing for her to gaze upon! I’m sure she had every expectation of being able to look on that scene for the rest of her life.

this beautiful oval window is in the front of the temple. The original we were told, was made by Brigham Young and Joseph Smith. It currently stands in one of the upper rooms.

Sadly however, opposition continued to rage and persecution reached new heights. Less than two years from the completion of the Temple, the Saints were driven from Kirtland never to return. I cannot imagine the pain of walking away from all they had built there, out of their indescribable poverty. But God’s ways are not ours, and what they (and we as a church) needed to move forward was not the Temple itself, but what had been revealed in it and given through it.

After the Church left Kirtland, Martin Harris became the self appointed guide and caretaker of the deserted Kirtland Temple. He even listed himself as a “Mormon preacher” in the 1860 census.  While not officially the temple’s custodian, he provided tours of the building and bore witness to the Book of Mormon. 6

In 1901 the Reorganized Church (name later changed to Community of Christ) claimed ownership through a ‘legal claim of continuous use‘ after a period of several decades. I am grateful for the protection and responsible stewardship they provided, keeping it maintained and looking lovely. Many of you probably already know that the The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints after years of discussion, purchased the Kirtland Temple from them in March of 2024.

This came as quite a shock to me, and probably to most of you at the time, and no doubt to many in the Community of Christ. Some have wondered why the Church doesn’t turn it into a functioning temple. As I recall, one of the stipulations of the sale was that it remain open and available to Community of Christ members to visit – fair enough in my opinion, as it is a Holy Site to them as well as us. And then there is the other reason – the Church could probably do more good in building faith as a historical site than it probably could as a functioning modern temple. This makes me happy.

informative video of the transference of ownership. Enjoy.

Friday in Kirtland part 2 – afternoon in Historic Kirtland

After leaving the Kirtland Temple we visited HISTORIC KIRTLAND, the site of well known buildings from the early Church in Kirtland.

Our first stop was the Newel K Whitney Store.  I love Newel and Elizabeth Ann Whitney.  They were good people – blessed with the things of this world which they used to minister to those in need. They were prayerful people, with hearts ready to recognize the gospel when they heard it. Newel became the second Bishop of the Church. 

Who is not familiar with “Newel K. Whitney, thou are the man!”  At the beginning of February 1831, Joseph and Emma arrived in Kirtland having driven in a horse drawn sleigh from Fayette New York (a distance of nearly 300 miles). They pulled up in front of the store and entered.  Upon seeing him, Joseph said “Newel K. Whitney thou art the man!” 
Astonished, Newel took the proffered hand saying “You have the advantage of me. I could not call you by name as you have me.” 
“I am Joseph the Prophet. You’ve prayed me here—now what do you want of me?”

It is said that the Prophet Joseph Smith had seen Newel and Elizabeth Whitney in a vision, fervently praying for his arrival in Kirtland. The Whitneys were deeply faithful and prayerful people. Before their conversion, they had been members of a congregation led by Sidney Rigdon.  Many in Rigdon’s congregation were converted by early Latter-day Saint missionaries—just months before Joseph’s arrival, the Whitneys among them.

As a group, they had been seeking a church that mirrored the one Christ established during His earthly ministry. When they heard the restored gospel preached, their hearts were prepared—and they embraced it with faith and readiness.

The Whitneys invited Joseph and Emma to stay with them till they could make long term living arrangements, and so began a deep and lasting friendship of two faithful families. I was happy to visit the Whitney Store, happy to remember that story.  Not too far away, we visited their lovely, though modest home. The Smith’s lived with them for 6 weeks. 

From there, Joseph and Emma moved to what they hoped would be a more permanent situation—the Isaac Morley farm, just outside of town.   Isaac and Lucy Morley were also former members of Sidney Rigdon’s congregation, having been converted by Parley P Pratt when he came to Kirtland.

The Smiths stayed on the Morley farm for about a year. It was there that Emma gave birth to twins—who heartbreakingly died the same day they were born.  At the same time, not far away, another young mother—Julia Murdock—died while giving birth to twins: a boy and a girl.   Her husband, John Murdock, now grieving and overwhelmed with other young children to care for, found himself unable to care for the newborns alone. In a remarkable act of trust and compassion, he offered the infants to Joseph and Emma to raise as their own.  By that point, Emma had already lost the first three children she’d given birth to, and in that act, John Murdock’s grief opened a door to Emma and Joseph’s unexpected joy.

These are familiar stories in Church history. Most members know them. But to stand in the place where it all happened—where Joseph and Emma’s twins were born and died, where Emma, heartbroken and empty-armed, was given the sacred chance to mother again—it brings it all to life in a different way.

All of this happened while they lived on the Morley farm.

We visited the sawmill that played a key role in supporting the construction of the Kirtland Temple. Right next to it, Newel K. Whitney had built an ashery—a major asset in both the building of the temple and generating income for that purpose.

What exactly is an ashery?
It’s a facility that converts hardwood ashes into useful substances like lye, potash, and pearl ash. In the 19th century, potash was essential for a variety of industries—it was used to make soap and glass, tan leather, bleach cotton and wool, and refine many other materials. In fact, the glass used for the Kirtland Temple windows was made right in Kirtland using potash from the ashery.

Today, potash is mostly used as fertilizer and is typically mined underground, which has replaced the need for potash production from hardwood. But the Kirtland ashery holds a special place in our history, and is currently, the only operational ashery left in America, faithfully reconstructed as a tribute to the hard work, ingenuity, and self-reliance of the early Saints. It stands as a powerful symbol of their dedication, sacrifice, and the spirit of industry that helped make the temple possible.

Soon after the terrible incident at the Johnson’s house involving the ruthless beating of Joseph and Sidney Rigdon, the Johnsons moved to Kirtland and bought an Inn. I don’t recall going into the Inn while we were there but I do remember seeing it.  A beautiful and stately brick building. 

in this upper room of the Whitney’s store, began the School of the Prophets

When Joseph and Emma returned to Kirtland, the Whitneys had the upper floor of their store converted into a comfortable living space for them.  That was there the School of the Prophets was held, in an upper room of the Whitney store. What exactly was this “School of the prophets”? During the winters between 1833 and 1836, those who attended were taught both spiritual and secular things, to prepare them for missionary work, as well as the eventual completion of the temple. You might say it was the first MTC (Missionary Training Centre).

The Smiths continued to live in the converted upper area of the store until the little white house north of the temple was completed for them. They built a smaller house on the same property for Joseph’s parents as well. This would have been the perfect set up for them to live out their lives there, and I’m sure Emma had fond desires to do that, but . . . . as we said before, God’s ways are not always our ways.

There is much more to the story of course, but our tour ended in Kirtland. Luke and I had traveled to Independence those many years ago, and visited the places that come after Kirtland. We ended our tour then in Carthage – where Joseph and Hyrum were murdered. If I ever redo that trip – I’ll write about it.

in the meantime . . . .

I have a book: Who’s Who in the Doctrine & Covenants, written by Susan Easton Black.
I first heard her speak in a religious symposium of sorts that used to come to Edmonton every year or so, called “Know Your Religion”.  It featured Church Educators from BYU (as I recall). Some of us older people might remember those days, but I only attended a couple of times before it stopped.  Sister Black made an indelible impression on me.  She was also the educator in Nauvoo while Luke and I were on a tour there in 2005. Lucky us.   

A few years ago, as I was studying the Doctrine & Covenants I noted that there were many people mentioned in the verses that I was unfamiliar with, and I wondered what happened to them. I decided to make it part of my study then, to find out. Every time I came across a name in my reading, I took the time to look that person up in Sister Black’s book. I found it an enlightening experience. Many of them left the church – either on their own, or because they were excommunicated. I wondered what caused them to lose their faith, and to fight against the church they loved. I also wondered how I might arm myself against doing something similar. If Oliver Cowdery could lose his faith, then why not me? What makes me safer than him? What can I learn from their experiences?

I keep it handy these days as I am again studying the Doctrine & Covenants.  You might find it helpful too.

Martin Harris – estranged himself from the church during the Kirtland years and remained away for 32 years. Interestingly he has two baptism dates (after his original date), one in 1842 at age 59 (only 5 years after he left), and another on Sept 17, 1870 in Utah by Edward Stevenson, in the presence of five Apostles. I am given to understand that it was not unusual for members to be baptized more than once in those days. I don’t pretend to know anything more about it.

At the age of 86 he sent a message to Brigham Young saying that he wished to visit Utah, and his family who lived there. Brigham sent him money to make the trip and in his 88th year, he traveled west. He was rebaptized soon after he arrived and at some point while he was gazing at the temple, tabernacle and the beautiful city around exclaimed “Who would have thought that the Book of Mormon would have done all this?”
He died in Utah at the age of 92.

Oliver Cowdery – left the church during the Kirtland years. 11 years later, he attended a meeting in Iowa and said “Friends and Brethren, My name is Cowdery – Oliver Cowdery. In the early history of this Church I stood identified with her and one in her councils, … I wrote with my own pen, the entire Book of Mormon as it fell from the lips of the Prophet Joseph Smith – that book is true. … For a number of years I have been separated from you. I now desire to come back. … I seek no station. I only wish to be identified with you.” He was receive and rebaptized.

David Whitmer – after being one of the original Three Witnesses of the Book of Mormon, as well as one of the earliest members of the church, and holding many responsible leadership roles in the church, began associating with a small but influential group of Saints who rebelled against the prophet’s leadership after the dedication of the Kirtland Temple. He was excommunicated in 1838 when he was only 35 years old, and is the only one of the three witnesses who didn’t come back to the church.

He was a well respected citizen and businessman of Richmond Missouri where he spent most of the rest of his life. He was the last surviving witness and tenaciously held to his testimony of the Book of Mormon. He was interviewed extensively, saying that over the years, thousands came to inquire. Over fifty of these conversations are reported in reasonable detail in diaries, letters and even newspapers. On his deathbed, after having been declared of sound mind by his doctor, he for the last time bore testimony that “the Bible and the record of the Nephites is true …”

Newel and Elizabeth Whitney remained faithful members, traveling to Utah in 1848. 

Isaac and Lucy Morley remained faithful members of the church, traveling to Utah in 1847.

John Murdock later remarried and remained faithful to the church, traveling to Utah with the Saints.

Thomas B. Marsh – who doesn’t know the story of Thomas B Marsh? His wife had been dishonest and was found out. Brother Marsh took her side declaring that he would sustain the character of his wife, even if he had to go to hell for it. Some years later he said in meeting with a group of former members of the church “You don’t know what you are about, if you want to see the fruits of apostacy, look on me.” In 1857 he arrived in the Salt Lake Valley and went to visit Brigham Young desiring to know if there could be a reconciliation between himself and the church. He later spoke to a congregation of Saints saying “I want your fellowship; I want your God to be my God. … I have learned to understand what David said when he exclaimed “I would rather be a doorkeeper in the house of God than to dwell in the tents of wickedness.”

John and Elsa Johnson lived in Hiram Ohio, south of Kirtland. The Johnsons invited the Smiths to live in Hiram, away from the constant busy-ness of all the goings on in Kirtland, so that Joseph could focus on the affairs of the church including new translations of the Bible. They lived there about six months.  The Johnsons apostatised from the church during the Kirtland crises of 1837.

Sidney Rigdon – formerly a Baptist minister fully embraced the philosophy of the restorative movement of newly formed Campbellites. The main goal of the Campbellites was to restore what they considered to be the original, unadulterated form of Christianity as described in the New Testament. Being thus inclined, he was open to news of an actual restoration unfolding – authored by God himself.  After reading the Book of Mormon, he was converted and encouraged those in his congregation to investigate themselves.  Many of the converts in early Kirtland were former parishioners of Sidney Rigdon.

Sidney was scribing for Joseph in his work with the New Testament, and was therefore present during several very important revelations, many of which became scriptural and some of which he participated in. 
While living in Hiram on the Johnson farm, he was also beaten, tarred and feathered the same night Joseph was. From that beating he was delirious for days and suffered life long affects, including apoplectic seizures. He was never the same again.  Today we would say that he a sustained serious, life altering “brain injury”.   
At length, Sidney removed himself from the Church, moving his family to Pittsburgh fearing they would be harmed if the mobocrats attacked Nauvoo, and eventually organized the Church of Christ in 1845. 

Joseph loved Sidney, though their last few years on earth were complicated. I have no doubt that they are reconciled in a world far less complicated than the one they shared between Kirtland and Nauvoo.

~

So many people in those early years gave their ALL to the gospel.  Most remained faithful and stalwart to the end, giving future generations a powerful legacy of strength. We who are in the Church today, are here because of them.  We stand on the shoulders of Giants.

One of the reasons why I chose to read Susan Easton Black’s book while I studied the history of the church was to know who stayed and who left, and why. I desired to piece together some of the known reasons they left the church, so I that could better prepare myself to not repeat their mistakes. Who has a crystal ball right? When we make choices, we set in motion consequences, many of which are not of our choosing. We seldom get to see ourselves down the road from those choices, but if we could – I expect we’d be much wiser. It’s helpful to consider “what would you tell the younger you if you could give some helpful life counsel from today?” By seeing what happened to many of these people I felt a little more armed.

What would Thomas B. Marsh tell his younger self today? What would Elizabeth Marsh tell her younger self?
What about William Smith – Martin Harris – David Whitmer – Peter or Mary Whitmer – John or Elsa Johnson – Oliver Cowdery – Sidney Rigdon – Oliver Granger – WW Phelps – Hiram Page and so many others?

What would I want to tell my younger self?

I hope you enjoy some of these musings. I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle
May 1 2025

  1. What, Why, and How: A Breakdown of the Restoration, by Faith Sutherlin Blackhurst https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/new-era/2018/06/what-why-and-how-a-breakdown-of-the-restoration?lang=eng ↩︎
  2. Introduction to the Proclamation by President Spencer W. Kimball https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/general-conference/1980/04/introduction-to-the-proclamation?lang=eng ↩︎
  3. 1816 was known as the “Year Without a Summer” in the entire northern hemisphere. Unusually cold weather caused widespread crop failures and major food shortages.
    Unbeknown to those affected, it was caused by the massive eruption of Mount Tambora in Indonesia a year before, the largest eruption in at least 1,300 years, and further exacerbated by the 1814 eruption of Mayon in the Philippines.
    The huge amount of volcanic ash, debris and gases released into the atmosphere blocked sunlight, causing global temperatures to drop. In the eastern United States, a persistent (and inexplicable) fog dimmed the sunlight, causing unusual cold and frost throughout the summer months. Neither wind nor rain could affect the eery fog. Crops failed, leading to food shortages and economic distress. Most of the effects on individuals, families and communities we know from letters and journal entries at the time.
    These conditions forced many families to leave their homes in search of better farming opportunities, contributing to Westward expansion. It also brought about an urgent renewed interest in religion, with many believing the world was coming to an end.
    It was this renewed interest in religion which led to the revivals that were so common in the New England area during Joseph Smith’s youth. ↩︎
  4. The printing press was destroyed by a mob on July 20 1833, while the Book of Commandments was being printed. All would have been lost if 15 year old Mary Elizabeth Rollins and her 13 year old sister Caroline hadn’t seen the opportunity to run and grab as many pages as they could carry from a pile intended to be burned. Angry men pursued them into a nearby cornfield, but the girls were not discovered and managed to save the remnants of nearly 100 copies. ↩︎
  5. Ezra Gwilliam Experience Sacred Sites https://www.experiencesacredsites.com/home
    Ezra Gwilliam – Dear Son: lessons from Moroni https://rsc.byu.edu/vol-16-no-1-2015/dear-son-lessons-moroni-chapter-9 ↩︎
  6. The Life of Martin Harris: Patterns of Humility and Repentance, by Larry E. Morris (Production editor, Joseph Smith Papers) https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/ensign/2012/07/the-life-of-martin-harris-patterns-of-humility-and-repentance?lang=eng ↩︎