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OATS: Where Healthy Food and Convenience Meet

Oats are a staple food in my house for many reasons, and in all the variations.   Although I usually prefer the nice thick rolled oats, and even the oat groats, quick oats have a firm place on my list of favourites too.   Quick oats are where wholesome goodness and convenience meet, and because of that they’ve earned their spot in my pantry. Adding a little quick oats to baby food helps provide well balanced protein, good representation of vitamin B, and a sustainability that will help baby feel satisfied longer. Keep some handy to add a tablespoon to pureed fruit, soups and yogurt.

I grew up on oatmeal porridge, and oatmeal raisin cookies. Moms for generations instinctively knew that oats were ‘good for you’, and since they’re relatively inexpensive, they were the perfect choice. Good and affordable. Oats had the reputation of “sticking-to-your-ribs”, so were a popular choice for breakfast. But what does that even mean? They are actually, a great source of dietary fiber, (both soluable and insoluable). The primary type of soluble fiber in oats is beta-glucan, which is slow to digest (hence they stick-to-your-ribs), and YES, this is a good thing, as it increases satiety, and suppresses appetite. In short, it is satisfyingly filling, and keeps you comfortable for longer.

But did you know that oats are even better for you than your mom and gramma understood? In fact, oats are among the healthiest grains on earth! They are a gluten-free whole grain and a great source of important nutrients. Although delicious and nutritious, most people are unfamiliar with the whole grain – groats: the hulled, whole seeds of the plants. We’re more familiar with rolled oats.

Oats are a great source of important vitamins, minerals, fiber and antioxidants, like potassium, calcium, magnesium and several B vitamins and Vitamin E, as well as trace minerals: manganese, copper, iron, phosphorus, selenium and zinc, AND – big bonus . . . Oats are a good source of protein. One of the richest sources of protein in the grain family: 11-17% dry weight. Truly, the humble OAT is a grain that deserves a place in your kitchen and in your family’s daily diet.

Groats:
All oats start off this way: the whole, unbroken grains. Before being processed into any other form, groats are usually roasted at a very low temperature. This not only gives the oats their nice toasty flavor, but the heat also inactivates the enzyme that causes oats to go rancid, making them more shelf-stable. If you have never cooked up groats, then you owe it to yourself to give them a try. Because they are the original source of oats, they should always be the first “go-to”, but admittedly, they take a little longer to prepare (which is still worth it bytheway), so in our fast passed society, they often get sidelined. Cooked groats have a beautiful chewy texture that retains much of its original shape, and more of a nutty, earthy flavour than regular rolled oats.
– see recipe below –

Steel Cut Oats:
are simply groats that have been cut to make them quicker to cook. Sometimes referred to as Irish oats, these oats look similar to rice that’s been cut into pieces. Chopping them makes them easier to cook and exposes the starches inside to the water. These starches dissolve during the cooking process, creating a thickened, creamy porridge. It takes a little less time to cook than the whole groats, but has that same beautiful chewy texture. True Scottish oats are ground on stone mills from whole oat groats.  They are not rolled, nor cut; they are ground. The texture of Scottish oatmeal is fairly fine.

Steel cut groats are more than porridge: add to stuffing, and even made a savory congee.
– see recipes below –

Rolled Oats (or Old Fashioned Oats)
These are the oats I grew up with, but in those days we mostly used them for porridge and cookies. My mom also used them in meatloaf.

I’ve since, taken oatmeal to a whole new level and I think I make the best in the world. (only slightly kidding). See recipe (such as it can be) below.

When I was a young mom, my mother in law introduced me to OATMEAL SOUP. The name is not very inviting, but it became a family favourite in our house. I’ve often made it for others, but I never call it by that name because of the images it conjurs up lol.
– see recipe below –

My first experiments with Muesli were with the old fashioned rolled oats, which I started the night before. It was pretty much rolled oats and chopped dates in milk, soaked over night. I liked it, but my daughter disliked dates. Immensely. The concept of an uncooked ‘oatmeal’ intrigued me though, so I determined to keep it up, with some necessary adjustments. See below for more on Muesli.

Quick Oats
Oat groats that are steamed for a longer period of time and rolled into thinner pieces so that they can absorb water easily and cook very quickly, or not even at all. NOT to be confused with the boxed “instant oatmeal”, available in stores now which contains quick oats plus a lotta sugar and artificial flavours. Instant oatmeal does not deserve a spot in my pantry.

For porridge, I never use quick oats, but they do come in handy for other things. Their convenience justifies their position in my pantry, and I though I rarely used them when my kids were younger, I wouldn’t want to be without them now. They are the base for my Muesli recipe (below), and I often add quick oats and blueberries to yogurt.

the flexibility of oats
Truly, I do not know why oats are not more of a common food in most households. They are SO much bigger than the porridge of our childhoods.

Oatmeal:
Yes, that generational breakfast favourite – cooked rolled oats. I have fond childhood memories of oatmeal on winter mornings before school, and I hope my kids have those same memories. I’m doing my best to make sure my grandkids do.
– see recipes below –

Oat Flour:
Your can buy or grind your own oat flour. Throw a little into cookies or bread for a boost of nutrients, and added chewiness.

Oat Bran:
Oat bran comes from the outer part of the groat. If you grind your own flour, you can get oat bran by sifting coarsely ground groats. Or you can buy it. When oatmeal is processed, the bran (outer layer), is removed. Oat bran is a good source of protein, B vitamins, iron and soluble fiber. It is used to make porridge, and as an ingredient in a variety of hot and cold cereals, as well as in breads, cookies and muffins. Fiber adds bulk (not calories) to foods, so it helps “fill you up without filling you out.” Oat bran is particularly rich in a type of fiber called soluble fiber, which turns into a gel-like substance in your stomach. This helps you take in fewer calories overall.

Oat Risotto:
Simply replace oat groats in your favourite risotto recipe. Easy peasy.

Oat Congee:
Congee is a thick Asian comfort food, traditionally made with rice in a meat broth. Simply substitute in oats.
Because it uses more water and is cooked longer, congee began as a way to stretch the rice in hard times. Usually a thick stew, or even a porridge (or gruel) type of dish. From its humble beginning, who knew it would turn into a favourite food of so many, and even find its way onto restaurant menus? I guess that’s the way with most comfort foods, they start out as necessities: poor people’s food. Adding rice to a brothy soup and simmering it till the rice actually thickens the soup, essentially IS ‘congee‘. Well you can do the same thing with barley, so why not oats? Remember, you’re the boss. You can add it to any soup recipe that calls for rice or barley. And you can flavour it any way you like.
– see below for sample recipe –

Muesli

Let’s talk about Muesli, because it really does deserve more attention than it gets. Developed in the early 1900’s by pioneer nutritionist, Swiss physician Maximilan Bircher-Benner, he used it for convalescing patients in his private hospital. It was not originally intended as a breakfast, but more of an appetizer. Bircher-Benner’s focus was a diet rich in fresh fruit and vegetables which he used as an essential part of his nutritional therapy. Truly, he was ahead of his time. Who knew that over a hundred years later we’d finally understand how important a focus on fruits and vegetables is to our health. And Muesli has stood the test of time, as it is ever growing in popularity.

The original 1900 Bircher-Benner recipe consisted of : apples and nuts in a base of rolled oats, with lemon juice. The oats were pre-soaked water for up to 12 hours, then mixed with grated apples (the most readily available fresh fruit in Switzerland at the time). They were served with milk or cream, sweetened with honey or a small amount of sweetened condensed milk. The lemon juice helped keep the apples from browning. The idea was to serve a small amount of muesli immediately before every meal, as an appetizer of sorts.
Modern adaptations of Bircher-Benner’s recipe includes more fresh fruit.

Years ago, when my older kids were little, I came across what was referred to as a traditional Swiss Muesli recipe: large flaked oats, dates and other dried fruit and topped with yogurt and toasted almonds. It was delicious and nutritious. Soon enough I realized the potential for flexibility, and muesli progressed to include whatever fruit was fresh in the summer, or whatever home canned fruit I had on hand in the winter. Some things were constant: usually shredded apples and raisins. Some things varied: sometimes apple juice, sometimes milk. Muesli is like that. Flexible and wonderful.

Though my recipe has evolved over the years, I’ve generally depended on apples as the fruit base, mostly because they were so readily available throughout the year. Other fruits I added depended on the season. As time went on, and freeze dried fruit became more available, my dependence on seasonally available fruit lessened. And less nutritious canned fruit became a thing of the past. The base is still oats, but it fluctuates between rolled oats or quick oats. Rolled oats if I start the night before, quick oats if I decide at the last minute (which is more often these days). Its a breakfast for us, or a lunch, or even a late day snack.
– see recipe below –

RECIPES

Oat Groat Porridge ready to go!

Oat Groat Porridge (for two servings)
remember, you’re the boss. If you prefer all water, or all milk, or all another type of milk – you do you. This is just how I do me.

1/2 cup oat groats
1 cup water
pinch of salt (not more than 1/8 t)
1 cup milk
I T maple syrup or brown sugar or honey

Because groats are a whole grain, they take longer to cook, so I find it helpful to give them a little head-start.
1/2 cup whole groats in 1 cup water, bring to a boil, stir, then turn heat off. Let sit overnight (8 hrs-ish). In the morning, t will already be tender and chewy, turn the heat back on and stir, bringing the groats to a boil again. Add a cup of milk and lower the heat a little to bring it back to a slow boil, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Reduce to low, cover and let simmer gently for about 15-20 minutes, stirring once in a while to prevent sticking.
The texture will be gently soft, but still chewy. If desired, sweeten with your choice of sweetener. I like maple syrup. Serve and Enjoy.

Steel Cut Oat Porridge
A basic ratio for making steel-cut oat porridge is 1 cup of oats to 3 to 4 cups of water.
Less water keeps the oats more intact and chewy. More water makes a silkier porridge.
Try it a few times to nail down the way you prefer it.
I like to start with 3 cups water, and then add the last cup in milk toward the end.
Or use all milk. You’re the boss.
Add a pinch of salt of course.

Cooking steel-cut oats is easy.
Simply boil water, add oats, reduce heat, and simmer. But give it ‘time’, like 20 to 30 minutes to become tender.
Start testing your porridge around 20 minutes, and continue slow cooking, testing every few minutes till its perfect. If the oats are tender at 20 minutes, it will still thicken up a little to leave it on heat for a little longer. Try it a few times to find your favourite way.
To serve, pour a little more milk over top, and add a spoonful of brown sugar.
Try using maple syrup to sweeten instead of sugar.
I like putting raisins, or dried or freeze dried apricots on the top.

Because groat porridge takes so long to prepare, you might want to cook a little more, and refrigerate some for tomorrow. It will get dry in the fridge, but don’t despair, just add a little more milk and warm it up. Problem solved.

If you’re the type of person that must see an actual recipe, then see below, but remember, you can edit the details to your heart’s content.

1 cup steel cut oats
2 cups of water and 2 cups milk
a pinch of salt (about 1/8 teaspoon)
Bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the salt and groats, stir well to prevent sticking on the bottom. Return water to a boil, stirring.
Reduce heat to low, add 1 cup milk, stir again and cover. Allow to gently simmer for about 10 minutes, checking every once in a while and stirring to prevent sticking. Cover again, and continue to simmer for another 10 minutes. Add that last cup of milk if you want and simmer another 5-10 or so minutes. That’s where personal choice comes in.
When it is the way you want it, spoon into bowls and serve with a little more milk over top and a little brown sugar.
Serves three or four depending on how much milk you added at the end.

Cindy’s Oatmeal: I cook mine as little as possible.
Bring 2 cups water (with a dash of salt added) to a boil.
Add 1+1/2 cups rolled oats. Return to a boil, stirring to prevent clumping.
Add 1 cup milk and a little sweetener (usually brown sugar).
Gently simmer a few minutes and serve.
I occasionally add raisins to the boiling water (just before the oats), as a special treat. Or maybe some freeze dried fruit at the end: blueberries, raspberries, apricots. To me, oatmeal is great with several different fruits like apples, peaches, pears and cranberries.
I never use Quick oats for cooked porridge (too mucky, I like the integrity of whole rolled oats). I do however, use them for Muesli, or to add to yogurt bowls.

Overnight Oats:
a quick, easy no-cook option.
For one person use a pint sized jar: put ½ cup rolled oats + 1 cup milk of your choice + ½ cup fruit of your choice (banana, apple, peaches, etc). Add 2-3 T Greek yogurt + 1 T brown sugar or maple syrup. Put lid on, and shake vigorously till all is incorporated. Refrigerate overnight. The oats will soften and the mixture will thicken. Optional: sprinkle toasted nuts or seeds over top in the morning. Ready to “Grab n Go”.

fresher than fresh muesli made with freeze dried fruit

FRESHER THAN FRESH MUESLI
serves 2 or 3, uses mostly freeze dried fruit and takes five minutes to prepare. It doesn’t get any easier than this.
1 c. Quick Oats
1/2 c. dehydrated Applesauce
1/2 c. freeze dried Blueberries
1/2 c. freeze dried Raspberries
1/2 c. freeze dried Strawberry Slices
2 c. Apple Juice (approx)

Lightly stir to moisten completely, and let sit for 5 or so minutes to absorb juice. Add more juice as desired to keep it the texture you want. Serve. That’s it. It really IS that simple, and that quick. And that delicious. NO fat, NO sugar, NO dairy, NO wheat, NO additives of any kind. Super Nutritious and Delicious.
Remember, you’re the boss. If you don’t have or want berries, then use what you have or prefer.
Option 1: use any kind of fruit, substitute your faves or what you have on hand
Option 2: use any kind of juice or milk, substitute your fave or what you have on hand. I prefer apple juice because is mild tasting allowing the other tastes to come through.
Option 3: top it off with added nutrition in your bowl: a scoop of plain yogurt, a sprinkling of toasted nuts, or seeds: sesame / chia / hemp seeds.
Be creative. Muesli is flexible.

Muesli takes on a whole new world of possibilities with freeze dried fruits. Always ‘fresh’ and always at their nutritional peak, you can have any kind you want because you have all-the-fruit all-the-time in your home-store. No matter what time of year, THRIVE freeze dried fruit is “fresher-than-fresh”.

basic recipe for a Greek Lemon Chicken Soup.
Instead of using rice, use groats

Oat Congee
first of all, don’t get tied up in using a specific recipe like this one. Congee is simply adding the rice (or groats) to more liquid than usual and slow cooking it till they come to a very soft stage where they thicken the broth.

1 cup steel cut oats
4-6 cups vegetable or meat broth
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup minced onion (I use chopped freeze dried onion)
1/4 cup finely chopped carrots (I use Thrive Life dehydrated carrots that are diced)
1/4 cup chopped mushrooms (I use freeze dried mushroom pieces)
small amount of diced meat (leftover meat of your choice, or use diced freeze dried beef)
1 T freshly grated ginger, or 1 teaspoon fresh ground ginger
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
Bring the broth to a boil and add everything in. Reduce to a simmer and gently cook for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. If it starts to get a little ‘thick’ add more liquid.

CINDY’S OAT SOUP (serves 6)
1 cup rolled oats
1/3 cup butter + 2 Tablespoons
1 onion chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
8 cups chicken broth (or bouillon)
1 or 2 bay leaves
1 quart home canned tomatoes, or equivalent in canned or ripe tomatoes (3-4 peeled and chopped)
1T dried oregano crumbled
salt and pepper to taste later
Melt butter in large heavy skillet, over medium low heat. Add oatmeal and brown slowly, stirring constantly to prevent burning. It will burn suddenly, so be watchful. When nice and toasted, and smelling good, remove from heat and set aside in a bowl.
In soup pot, use remaining butter to saute onions and garlic. Add stock, tomatoes, bay leaves and oregano. Bring to a boil and add toasted oats. Reduce heat. Simmer covered for about 45 minutes, stirring once in a while to prevent clumping or scorching. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
Turn heat off and allow to sit for 15 minutes to thicken before serving.
This is a soup that is just as good on the second day, and will have thickened even more.
And yes, this is a type of ‘congee’.

PATTI SHENFIELD’S OATMEAL RAISIN COOKIES
(our family’s favourite cookie)
1 1/2 cup butter or margarine
1 1/2 cup white sugar
1 1/2 cup brown sugar
3 eggs
2 t vanilla
1/4 cup milk
3 cup flour
1 1/2 t baking soda
1 T baking powder
1/2 t salt
3 cups rolled oats
3/4 cup coconut (optional)
3 cups raisins (or chocolate chips or both)
In large bowl cream butter and sugars. Add eggs one at a time, vanilla and milk – beat until fluffy.
Combine dry ingredients separately then add to creamed mixture one cup at a time. Mix until well blended. Stir in oats and raisins and coconut if you’re using.
Preheat oven to 350 F. Drop by teaspoon onto ungreased baking sheet. Bake 10-12 minutes. Yield 7 dozen cookies.

* Are oats gluten free?
Yes, oats are gluten free, but many commercial brands are processed in facilities that also produce gluten grains like wheat, rye, and barley. Since cross-contamination is common, many GF people feel the need to avoid oats altogether. Big fat shame, and big loss to the individual. If you’re a gluten free person, you don’t have to miss out on oats. Simply look for the “gluten free” label signifying that they’ve been protected from contamination.

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What’s it gonna take? SERIOUSLY!

We’ve all seen things this year, we thought we’d never see.  We can no longer say “it’s never gonna happen”. It already has. It still is. It will again. And again! Stores running out of necessities. Supply chain issues that backlog commodities for weeks or even months, or in some cases – remove them completely.  Panic buying which leads to even more shortages, and finally rationing. Not that long before, we couldn’t even imagine it. Now most of us have seen it with our own two eyes. The year 2020. Never to be forgotten. A year full of uncertainty and constant upheaval, where nobody had 20/20 vision.

During much of 2020, empty shelves became common place all over the world.

All of us were affected. All of us were at least inconvenienced, by not being able to get the things we wanted or needed in a reasonable time – if at all. Some of us lost income. Some lost jobs. Some lost businesses. Some lost lots more. The businesses who survived, had to figure out how to reinvent themselves. Some did it really well. Some thrived. Some were so well suited to the new way consumers had to buy, that they had a stellar year. Every one of them adjusted in some way. If they didn’t, they probably didn’t survive. Most will never be the same again.

The question is: “if 2020 didn’t wake us up, what’s it gonna take?” What’s it gonna take to convince us that being prepared could make a repeat of that whole experience so much easier? Look at it as the best dress rehearsal ever! The whole world joined in. It revealed to us our weak spots – things we can improve on. I hope we learned some valuable lessons.

As we strive to care for ourselves and our families, one of our greatest challenges is to find peace in the midst of an uncertain future. Never has our future been as uncertain as it is now. Though we may have the basic necessities of life today, what about tomorrow? Psychologists explain hoarding and panic buying as expressions of the need for “taking back control in a world where one feels out of control”. It leads to “me-before-you” thinking, and disregards the basic needs of everyone else.   Experts say that when people are stressed, their ability to reason is often hampered, and they look at what others are doing for guidance. They will likely follow the crowd – engaging in the same behaviour.  The great toilet paper shortage in 2020 is the perfect example of this, and has become the “icon” of mass panic buying.

The sad truth is, that none of it was necessary. And it still isn’t. Not because I don’t believe shortages will happen again, but because with a little bit of foresight and planning, we can all be prepared. With preparation comes peace of mind, and there is no price on “peace of mind”.

For over a century the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints has counselled its members to be prepared in all things. “If ye are prepared, ye shall not fear” is a basic tenet in the religion. Preparation in all things, not just food. In 1977, then leader of the Church – Spencer W. Kimball said “We have placed considerable emphasis on personal and family preparedness. I hope that each member of the Church is responding appropriately to this direction. . . . This implies the [prudent managing] of our resources, the wise planning of financial matters, full provision for personal health, and adequate preparation for education and career development, giving appropriate attention to home [food] production and storage as well as the development of emotional resiliency.” These were strong words to the members of the Church at the time, and many took them very seriously. The wise counsel was considered “Direction”, and it certainly shaped the direction I took as a young adult, influencing many choices I made then, and in my future: primarily my choice to establish a serious FOOD STORAGE. I guess you could say some of us were “preppers” long before prepping was cool. LOL.

We don’t have to wear a long pony tail and live in a mountain cabin to be prepared. The term “prepper” may be a fairly current term, but there is nothing new about the concept of preparedness. So how does an urbanite prepare themselves and their family for the inevitable empty shelves and high prices of the future? I’ll tell you how. They begin by storing a modest supply of food. And they go from there.

HOW do you start a serious Food Storage?

It is actually really simple. Embarrassingly simple, however, don’t confuse the word “Simple” with easy, it’s about DOING. But with a clear mind and a good plan, we can move forward, beginning right here, where we are today. Below is counsel the Church’s governing body gave to its members worldwide in 2007.

Note that there is no incitement of panic in this loving counsel. It is reminiscent of the counsel a kind and wise parent might give to a child. And therein lies the simplicity of it. While worldwide circumstances and laws may alter drastically, the direction is still clear: to “store as much as circumstances allow“. What members do with that direction of course, is up to them – but if society as a whole followed it, we would never again have to live through the panic buying of 2020.

WHAT TO STORE?

Advice from the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, – long recognized as experts in the area of preparation says: “It is important to remember that you should not go to extremes when establishing your food storage. For example, it is not wise to go into debt to establish your food storage all at once. Develop it gradually so that it will not become a financial burden.”

hymn: Come Ye Thankful People
by Henry Alford

There are three main components of food storage: *short term, *long term, and *water. Taking on the project of establishing a full year’s supply of food and necessities is huge, and for many – price prohibitive. But breaking it up into bite size, manageable pieces, removes the overwhelming immensity of it, making it feel less daunting, and more realistic; making it Do-able.

Start by setting a goal to store a THREE month supply, and divide that into months, beginning with ONE week: seven days of breakfast, lunch and supper. You know what is normal for your household. Start there. It is very important that you “STORE WHAT YOU EAT, AND EAT WHAT YOU STORE“.

  1. Think of seven family favourite recipes for main dish meals. Write them down, with a list of ingredients for each. Begin your journey by buying what you need for those seven meals.
  2. Now think of seven breakfast meals that are not dependent on fresh ingredients. Write them down, with a list of ingredients for each.
  3. Fill the week’s menu in, with a list of seven lunch ideas, and write them down with a list of ingredients.

    This exercise becomes a little more elaborate as you go through it, and it requires serious contemplation to make sure your choices are manageable for YOUR particular circumstances, especially if you have children in the home. Remember, it MUST be liveable. People say to me all the time “if I’m starving, I’ll eat anything“. Okay, I get that, and I might not even disagree with it in theory, but framing it with such extreme adjectives as “starving” is what panic thrives on. Calm down, and try to reframe your preparation in terms of “normal”. In times of stress, you want as much to remain comfortable and normal as possible. THIS is a huge step in the “peace-of-mind” department. An adequate food storage is not simply for some future ‘zombie apocalypse’, it is for those times when life throws you curveballs and you cannot get out to shop; it is for times of illness, disruption in employment, or – as we all saw in 2020, when the stores themselves cannot supply the general public. An adequate food storage removes the feeling of losing control over one’s own environment.

Once you have your week’s menu written down, go out and begin purchasing the ingredients for it – as you can. Make it a priority, pushing less important things to the side for now. Then, when you have those supplies firmly in-hand, repeat it. Or better yet, create another week’s menu.

Think of seven MORE family favourite meals.
Repeat all the steps above.
And then repeat again. And repeat again.

Now comes a new way of thinking, that is key to making this whole thing work. Avoid the scarcity mentality that “food storage” is food storage and “groceries” are groceries and never the twain shall meet. Don’t buy into that idea of “protecting” your food storage from yourself. That is where the scarcity mentality comes in and starts to mess with you. I have friends who absolutely will NOT touch their food storage. They’ve developed such a mental block against using it because of their belief that it is for emergencies only. But what constitutes an emergency? And when is it big enough? Some of them tell me they’ve got freeze dried food in their storage, and knowing that it has a shelf life of 25 years, they can just forget about it, knowing they’ve done due diligence.

The problem with this thinking is multifaceted. Firstly, they never learn how to use it, so the learning curve never goes away – making using the food seem more intimidating than it ought to be. And nothing ever gets resolved. Secondly, time slips by – and pretty soon 25 years has come and gone. Some of my friends admitted they’ve had their food storage well in the excess of 30 years! The natural question should be “So, WHEN were you gonna get around to using it?” They spent thousands of dollars, on this food insurance – only to have it now, decades past the expiry date. What a waste of a LOTTA money!

I am not speaking against long shelf-life foods. I am speaking against wasting them.
Spencer W. Kimball emphasized – and I can hear his gravely voice even still say “We encourage families to have on hand this year’s supply; and we say it over and over and over and repeat over and over the scripture of the Lord where He says, “Why call ye me, Lord, Lord, and do not the things which I say?” [Luke 6:46.]”

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USE the food you’re acquiring, and replenish continuously.
This prevents food getting stale and outdated, and saves you money.
The key to making the whole FOOD STORAGE thing work, is to normalize it. This is food that you EAT, remember? So eat it. These are your family’s favourite meals right? They’re comfort foods. You’re used to buying these groceries. So keep buying for them.

Put USING it, into your plan. As you work toward your goal of acquiring ingredients for a week’s meals, . . . . simply add more. You should be in a constant state of replenishment: replenishing more than what you’re consuming. As you can afford it! Never, ever, ever go into debt to buy food storage. That is flawed thinking, and completely polar to the whole principle of self sufficiency behind it. Perhaps you’re replenishing with a little bit more than what you’re eating, perhaps with a lot more. Follow the good advice to “store what your circumstances allow”. In the example of my friends with the expired food: they could have saved a whole lotta money if they had been regularly using and regularly replenishing their food storage. You don’t have to worry about buying two sets of groceries every month: one for the kitchen pantry, and the other for your “food storage”.

SHOP THE SALES
We all look for bargains when we go into grocery stores. When something we like is on sale, we try to pick up extra. With the food storage mentality, pick up a little MORE than extra. Gradually your week’s supply will expand to a month’s supply, and eventually to three months. This is where you start enjoying the sense of peace that comes with preparation.

NORMALIZE
It is critical that the meals you are planning, are as ‘normal’ as possible, because it is also critical that you rotate them: first in, first out. Doing so keeps your food items current, avoiding spoilage. When my family was young, I had an added motivation to ‘normalizing’ our food storage. I didn’t want my kids to ever feel ‘hard-done-by’, if and when we ever relied on our food storage (which we did for short spurts from time to time). No matter how difficult things might be for us, I wanted life to be as ‘normal’ as possible for our kids. That meant that we couldn’t be eating completely one way in the good times, and completely another way when things got hard. That simply meant we stored what we ate, and we ate what we stored.

*hint: You should also have a short-term supply of medications, hygiene items, and any other necessities of your family.

There are lots of resources about storing food, and quite simply – there isn’t ONE way to do it. We all have circumstances unique to us that make our stories a little different. But there is lots we can learn from our own experience and the experiences of others. I intend to create future posts answering questions I have heard, that may hopefully give you some suggestions for how you can work things out in your own home.

Watch for future posts on:
what to store, including personal recommendations
*where to store it – including to freeze or not to freeze
*home canning and other skills for food storage
*how to use
*water storage
*seed storage
– and more . . . .

In the meantime, I’d love to hear your comments about what works for you.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle

footnotes:
read President Kimball’s April 1976 talk here – https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/manual/teachings-spencer-w-kimball/chapter-11?lang=eng

read Vaughn J. Featherstone’s talk about Food Storage from the same General Conference, April 1976 – https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/ensign/1976/05/food-storage?lang=eng

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Come Grow Old With Me

“Grow old along with me! The best is yet to be, the last of life, for which the first was made. Our times are in his hand who saith, ‘A whole I planned, youth shows but half; Trust God: See all, nor be afraid!”
– Robert Browning, a 19th century British poet, and famous for the poetry he and his wife Elizabeth Barrett Browning wrote together, still often quoted today.

Many things he wrote touch my heart. But this: “Come grow old with me. The best is yet to be . . .” this one is my mantra. I first heard it when I was 17, recited by a television character in an episode of “Marcus Welby MD”, and it imprinted in my brain. I thought it was the most wonderful and idealic expressions of love I’d ever heard. Although I couldn’t really visualize a life that wasn’t youthful, I knew already that I wanted to grow old with Dan. And I completely trusted that “the best was yet to be”.

Robert Browning

Well, over 45 years have come and gone – nearly half a century. (Sheesh right 🙄). And I have realized for years that I am living my dream. Although it hasn’t always been a picnic, and we’ve certainly waded through much struggle over those years, I am indeed growing old with Dan. Ironically, Robert Browning outlived his wife Elizabeth by 28 years, never remarrying. He grew old without her, dying at the age of 77. How very, very sad. But not sadder than the hundreds of similar stories we see unfold all around us. Loving marriages, cut short here on earth by the passing of one. How grateful I am for the promise I have absolute faith in: that families are forever. Because of the atonement of Jesus Christ, families can be sealed together for eternity, and live together in family units forever.

Dan and I are approaching retirement. We hope and we pray for, and we truly look forward to the time to finish growing old together. We have many productive and wonderful years ahead, to spend together and to enjoy our family as they grow old too. But if not. If, for some reason that neither one of us will understand, that is not to be – then we can lean on the knowledge that we have chosen to seal ourselves to each other, with our family, and that we will be reunited in due time, and continue our life together in another place.

– warmly,

Cindy Suelzle

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Food Storage – where to store it when space is an issue?

In our goal to care for ourselves and our families, there are many challenges. Some more practical and some more emotional. But one of those practical challenges is to find ROOM!

Room to store food that will be accessible enough to our day-to-day living, so as to allow us to not only “Store-what-we-eat“, but to actually “EAT-what-we-store“. When I was a child, it seemed that most houses were built with a cold room. Ours was for sure. And it was COLD, all year round. All our non-frozen food went in there, the boxes of fruit my mother bought, and everything else that needed to be kept cold but not frozen. Twenty years later, by the time Dan and I were looking at houses to buy, the fashion was very different. There were fewer cupboards in kitchens, no (or very small) pantries and zero additional space to store food – especially if you wanted it cold. What the heck? Another twenty years later, with the homes my kids have purchased, I am noticing some common trends. The newer homes have fairly nice sized pantries, but virtually NO available space for additional storage. It seems that for the last several decades, storing more than a few week’s worth of food requires considerable creativity. And being creative is important, because where we store our food storage is a big factor in *how long we can expect it to last, *the quality that it will retain, and more importantly *how accessible it is to us to be able to USE.
Types of containers, and conditions in the space we store it will impact its shelf life.

FINDING SPACE WHEN YOU’RE PRETTY SURE THERE ISN’T ANY

After we bought the house we are currently in, it took us a few years of trying this and that before we settled on not one area that worked for food storage, but a combination of three areas. A little over a decade ago, we made some big changes in what we were storing, which influenced of course, how we stored it. Although I still do home canning and I still dehydrate when its suitable, and yes, we still have a freezer, about ten years ago we began to incorporate FREEZE DRIED Food into our food storage. The exceptionally long shelf life was the initial attraction – twenty five years, as opposed to the suggested two years of canned food (whether home canned or commercially canned), and the one year or less recommended for frozen food. That’s a BIG Plus! But it was also the variety that appealed to me. Everyone knows that the weak spot of any food storage program is VEGETABLES. Eating canned fruit isn’t bad, but who really likes canned vegetables? canned peas? or green beans or beets? When I was a child, Popeye tried to convince us that canned spinach was desirable. It would make you strong! he said. And although he did a good job convincing me it would make me strong, even Popeye couldn’t make canned spinach taste good. Suddenly with freeze dried food, one could have spinach, broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, celery, onions, and a whole lotta other vegetables – that tasted like they had just been picked, and which were FULL of important nutrients! And not just vegetables. Fruits, dairy products and even meats!

When considering where to store food storage, it is important that you find a place that is dry, dark and cool. Wouldn’t it be nice to have those cold rooms of yester-year? But even though most modern houses don’t plan for that sort of thing, those three factors of *dry, *dark, and *cool, must be our focus when looking for a suitable place. All other factors are secondary to moisture and temperature.

CONTAINERS

Common containers for food storage are:
*paper – such as sacks of flour and sugar, or cardboard pasta boxes – short term only.
*plastic or cellophane – such as pasta bags, raisin bags etc – short term only.
*plastic buckets with air tight lids – suitable to pour from, or place bagged foods into. Practical for holding large amounts of food while keeping smells in or out, air out, and light blocked. Shelf life is completely dependent on what you put into them.
*glass – mostly used by home canners, this is as effective as metal cans except for the obvious need to keep in the dark. Food exposed to light will react to it. Shelf life is recommended to be two years or less.
*metal cans – of wet food such as fruit, cans of soup etc – like jars, recommended shelf life is two years. Metal cans – of dried food extends the shelf life considerably. It is the absence of moisture and the absence of oxygen that is so beneficial, but of course, it depends what is in the can, and how dry it was when sealed.

In all cases, moisture in the #1 enemy, It is imperative that we protect food from moisture which creates a perfect environment for harmful micro-organisms to thrive in.
*hint: moisture doesn’t always mean liquid. Be mindful of moisture in the air that dry food will absorb when exposed to it.

CREATING ROOM

When you invest in food storage, “where am I gonna put this?” has got to be a question we ask ourselves. We can’t just keep buying food without a proper place to put it. We need shelves of one sort or another. And we need some kind of dedicated space.

underneath our stairs we created a spot that promised to work just fine. The shelves are deep enough to hold #10 cans three deep.

The space underneath stairs is often awkward and poorly used. Its generally an unfinished area, without heat, and If its in the basement, the cement floor helps it to be cool. The absence of a window keeps light to a minimum. Building some sturdy shelves can take best advantage of the space. Make sure the shelves are high enough for large #10 cans and deep enough for 3-4 of them or 4-6 quart jars.

SHELVING

https://thrivewithcindy.thrivelife.com/other.html#free-standing-units

The incorporation of freeze dried food into our family food storage meant that our storage situation needed to be adjusted. Frankly, it made it a lot easier. We had already invested in a shelf rotation unit. The company was then called SHELF RELIANCE (changed their name in 2013 to THRIVE LIFE). We opted initially, for the variety unit which held small cans like tuna sized, right up to the large number 10 sized cans, and everything in between. Seriously, it was one of the best investments we ever made in the area of food storage. It made rotating the cans so easy, and rotation is a major consideration when managing long term food storage. First in, first out. No more wasting food because it gets forgotten behind something else. The shelf rotation system was simple and brilliant.

For those like us, who needed some serious organization and to maximize storage space, this can-rotation system was the cat’s meow. It holds more cans than I could have imagined – up to 300 cans of varying sizes. No more stacking boxes and searching for what you’re pretty sure you have somewhere. And more importantly, no more forgetting about cans that remain tucked away until way past their expiry date. They are suitable to set up in a pantry, in a closet, in a food storage room, tucked into some corner in the basement, or in whatever available space you have – it keeps food uncluttered, visible and accessible.

In time, we bought another unit to accommodate some of our growing supply of large family sized cans of freeze dried food. But still, where to put them? and where to create more storage space? When we first got them, we kept them both in the laundry room which wasn’t ideal for a number of reasons, so we kept our minds open to other possibilities.

two rotation units side by side. One is for larger cans only, the other is for a variety of sizes.

At the time, we had an exceptionally long family room in our basement. We measured off a few feet at the back and Dan built a wall, instantly creating a new room, narrow but sufficient for our needs. We put our rotation units into it, adding additional shelves as were appropriate. Having two rooms for food storage might not have been our initial preference, but one must make the best of one’s situation right? It does allow us to diversify and organize better. And it allows for easy access.

TEMPERATURE

When dealing with food that has such an exceptionally long shelf life as freeze dried food, it is tempting to assume that shelf life is unconditional, Make no mistake – there is no such thing as unconditional. Fluctuating temperatures of summer highs and winter lows undermine the integrity of any food, no matter how dry it is stays. That 25 year shelf life is dependent upon ideal conditions.
Q: What is the ideal temperature condition?
A: Consistent temperatures below 70 degrees Fahrenheit (or 20 degrees Celsius) with the most important part being “CONSISTENT”.

Yes, we all know people who store their food in an unheated garage, but in that condition (at least in the climate I live in) it is impossible to avoid drastic fluctuation of temperature. However, if that is your only option, all you can do is make the best of it. Do you best to keep the temperature as consistent as possible, and know that your 25 year expectation should unavoidably be adjusted. I have even known some who store their freeze dried food in an outdoor shed! Though it may offer shelter from the rain, shed, temperatures can easily dip below -40 C in winter and rise to almost +40 C in the summer, with everything in between. This is extremely undesirable, and will most assuredly affect the stability of your food. It is not necessarily cold or heat that causes the damage, as much as the continuous fluctuation between the two extremes.

In the end, all we can do is the best we can do. I am of the firm belief that FOOD STORAGE is very important. I believe it should be food of the highest quality possible, and that all precautions should be taken to ensure it stays healthy. Where to start? That is a discussion for another time, but it is critical to start somewhere. Better to have some than none. Better to start! Don’t wait for a location to suddenly appear. Take charge and carve out a spot that is dark, dry and maintains a temperature as consistent as possible. Build or buy some shelves to store it, and GO FOR IT. You’ll never regret it.

Where have you found the best place to store your food storage? I’d love to hear your creative solutions when space was limited.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle

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Composting – making something outta nothing

“Compost is a product that results from the slow decomposition of plant and animal material by living organisms. It is nature’s way of recycling the nutrients that exist in all living things and returning them to the soil to enrich and feed further generations.”
– Pauline Pears in Organic Book of Compost.

40% of all household waste is compostable.

So WHO should be composting? And WHAT should we compost? And WHERE would one set up a compost? And WHY would we bother? And HOW do we go about it? HOW does it all work? Lets go through those valid questions.

WHO?

Everyone! You do not need a large yard. You do not need a science degree or expensive equipment. And yes something as simple as kitchen and yard waste can make a difference. Turning what would otherwise be wasted into something valuable is somehow empowering. You are taking control of another area in your life. You are in fact, taking responsibility for managing a good part of the waste you produce, instead of making it someone else’s problem. It is the responsible thing to do. When we look at the big picture, it’s hard to believe that our pitiful contribution can have much environmental impact, but the small project of household compost means we are part of a solution, NOT the problem.

What is the personal benefit our of compost? As in why bother?

  1. Using the compost you produce, helps your future garden grow. It in fact becomes rich, loamy, dark brown soil , “whole food” for plants, providing nutrients and fiber. The more it breaks down the more it improves, making nutrients even more available.
  2. Compost increases your soil’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, which naturally wastes less water, and reduces the need for water.
  3. A natural fertilizer, compost contains balanced amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and other important minerals.
  4. Improves the composition and texture of the soil, making heavy clay soil lighter so it drains better, and adding body to sandy soil so that it holds water and nutrients better.

WHAT

What you compost is categorized into two simple groups: GREENS and BROWNS.

GREENS = wet, sappy material that breaks down readily
BROWNS = dry fibrous material that is slower to decompose.

A good compost needs a balance of both. Too many greens will make your compost too wet and too many browns will make it too dry. Both conditions will impede proper decomposition and progress. Greens are nitrogen rich, and often referred to as HOT. Hot means they have the ability to burn plants if used in too high of concentrations, or too ‘raw’ – like chicken manure. It also means that it creates heat in compost that is necessary for the breakdown of material.

There is no BEST way to compost. What works best for me, might not work for you at all, and vice versa. What worked for me years ago, doesn’t work anymore. The BEST way for you to compost is the way that’s going to work best for your situation right now. Do you have a big garden? a big yard? so that you can afford more space for your compost? Do you have a small yard? maybe even a town house? perhaps an apartment? When space is limited, naturally you have fewer options for space, but that doesn’t exclude the possibility of having a compost. Don’t make excuses for why you canNOT have a compost. Find ways you can make it work. The secret is to mesh your compost with your lifestyle. If its to inconvenient, good intensions are soon abandoned.

FROM THE HOUSE –
I use ALL fruit and vegetable trimmings, scraps and leftovers for compost. I also use paper and cardboard. I do not use meat trimmings or scraps of any kind. (see below)

Citrus –
Worth mentioning separately, because there are different schools of thought that warn against using citrus. Evidently, citrus peels take a long time to break down due to the natural chemicals and acidity which repel worms and other microorganisms, sometimes even killing them. Personally, I add citrus and onions (which some also warn against). My thinking is that in the big picture, citrus makes up such a small percentage of my total composting material, that I simply don’t have time to fuss about it. On the other hand, if I had a LOT of citrus, or if I was composting on a very small scale – like in an apartment using worms, I would probably avoid citrus peels because I don’t want to risk hurting my worms. But in a normal household compost, don’t worry about that. Just how many oranges do you eat anyway? I use ALL produce.

Coffee grounds –
improve soil looseness.  They are a good nitrogen source for composting, but use with moderation as they are acidic and excess acid prevents the compost from heating up. Adding them directly to the garden may be too much direct acid for the novice gardener, but blending them with everything else in your compost is perfect.
We don’t drink coffee in our house, so once or twice a year we’ll go to our local Tim Hortons with a pail and ask for their day’s left over grounds. They don’t save them usually, so we leave our pail and pick it up the next day. I remove the paper filters when I dump the pail into our compost bin. In a normal household I wouldn’t hesitate to use whatever coffee grounds are produced. I’d totally call that moderation. Again, how much can one normal household produce?

Meat, fish, fats, oils and dairy –
Can these protein foods be composted? Of course they can. Everything that ever lived is compostable. With meat, fish and dairy however, you risk attracting unwelcome pests like flies, mice, and cats, even skunks, racoons and coyotes if you live in an urban area, or bears if you live in rural areas. Its the smell of rotting meat that is offensive to humans but attractive to animals. There are many composters however, who do compost meat, being careful to cover it with a layer of sawdust or other dry material to minimize odours. There are others who say that decomposing meat contains bacteria you don’t want, while others say the heat generated takes care of it. In the end, you-do-you. I prefer not to deal with it.

Paper products –
Most paper products are great for composting. Thin printed paper like newspapers are perfect. Help speed up the process by shredding them or ripping them up when you throw them into the bin. Also paper towels and tissues and even shredded cardboard. They are from trees, after all! Avoid coloured glossy paper like magazine pages as they have been treated with coatings to make them so bright. Not only do they not break down well, they contain toxins that are best left avoided.
I also add paper towel rolls, toilet paper rolls, paper egg cartons, newsprint flyers that come to the door, some packing papers, as well as many brown cardboards. Just rip them up and add them to your compost bin.

Egg shells –
are a rich source of calcium and other essential nutrients that plants need. Not only are they excellent for your compost, but many people also add them directly to the soil they are transplanting vegetables seedlings into. If you throw eggshells directly into your kitchen pail and then transfer it directly to your garden compost, you may find some undecomposed egg shells the following spring. Not to worry, they’ll finish decomposing. But if you take the time to dry your shells, and then crush them before adding them to your compost or garden, you’ll speed up the process, and reduce the inconvenience.

Walnuts –
NO. Walnut shells, nuts, leaves and bark should not be used in compost destined for a vegetable garden. Walnut trees release a chemical called juglone which occurs naturally and is toxic to some vegetables and plants. Some say that the leaves can be composted because the juglone toxin breaks down when exposed to air, water and bacteria, with the toxic effect degraded within a few weeks, but to me – why take the chance? In my part of Alberta, walnuts don’t grow anyway, but if you’re in southern BC or the western states, then you already know that walnut trees are not a gardener’s friend, and you already know what to avoid. Apparently, compost containing walnut residue is excellent for lawns. For the rest of us – I choose not to put walnut shells in my compost. Its an easy choice.

Old straw or wood shaving bedding from small pets like hamsters–
Yes. Just dump the soiled bedding into your compost bin and let it age like everything else.

Indoor plants that become infested with bugs or disease –
NO. Get rid of them. In a bag, into the trash. Don’t risk spreading disease or pests.

FROM THE YARD

First spring mowing –
will include a lot of great brown material like dead grass, snow mold, dead leaves etc. HOLD ON! Don’t bag it all up and haul out with the garbage. Mow them up and use as the base of a new compost pile.

Grass clippings throughout the year –
Yes – But! Grass clippings are usually green and moist. They matt and break down, but prevent moisture from getting through them when they matt. For this reason its not a good idea to use as plant mulch fresh from the lawn mower. Best to spread them out and maybe even toss them with a fork the next day or two to prevent that matting, and let them dry a bit. I have an area that I have Dan dump the clippings, them I spread it out with a rake. A couple of days later I spread it out again, and that should do it. I don’t want to miss out on their goodness.
For the compost bin – absolutely. Green grass is quick to decay, adding nitrogen which helps everything around it decay.

NO – when you’ve recently treated your lawn with weed killer or fertilizer. Give it a mowing or two before adding to your compost.

Garden waste and weeds –
Another Yes But! Anything organic from your garden is fabulous and is best returned to it. Some weeds like dandelions, thistles and quack grass, spread through root cuttings, so be prepared that you might be creating more by recycling them. Also, some weeds spread through seeds, so it they’re already gone to seed, you may be recycling those weeds again the following year. If seeds are tough enough to get through a 40 below winter, they’re probably tough enough to make it through the decomposition process of a typical compost.

If you’re weeding before the weeds go to seed, you should be fine to use them. Most weeds that I pull from my garden go straight into the compost.

Wood –
Small pieces of wood scraps and small branches are perfect additions to your compost bin. All untreated wood will decompose, but obviously bigger pieces like logs or big branches are going to take a lot longer. Breaking down large branches through a wood chipper will make all the difference.

Sawdust –
is another great addition in moderation, but not all sawdust is equal. If the wood has been pressure treated, varnished, stained or painted, the toxic compounds in those chemicals will not break down, and can negatively affect the microorganism activity, and ultimately the health of future plants. This is totally logical, as those chemicals are used to protect the wood from decay in the first place. Not something you want in your garden.

Dog or cat waste –
NO! Not in a normal compost as it is yucky, stinky and has bad bacteria. However, there are many who have specific compost containers for it. More power to them. I’m not of that persuasion. That’s all I have to say about that.

Rabbit or Chicken bedding / droppings –
*Rabbits: Unlike the droppings of other animals, rabbit pellets are a great addition to any compost and even straight into the vegetable garden at the end of the year. It is generally considered that after six months any pathogens that survived the heat of the compost are sufficiently broken down. Rabbit manure is considered GREEN – so add equal amounts of straw, wood shavings, leaves or other BROWNS to balance it out. It is rich in nitrogen, so is a great way to give your plants the boost they need for strong, healthy growth. If you or your friendly neighbour have rabbits, you’ll always have an excellent source of nitrogen for your compost pile. Yay for Rabbits!

*Chickens: Chicken manure is an excellent addition to your compost. It increases the water holding capacity and beneficial organic makeup of your garden, contributing more of the critical elements – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (by about three times!) than horse, cow or steer manure! (particularly good for tomatoes bytheway) It is so high in nitrogen (GREENS), you’ll want to be sure you’re adding sufficient BROWNS to balance it, but the way I look at it, I am usually adding chicken manure WITH the straw bedding anyway – so, problem averted.

Don’t be tempted to use it ‘raw’ – straight from the chicken coop. It can burn and damage your plants, as well as potentially carrying pathogens that can harm people. As with other manures, it really should be composted / aged before using.  Six to nine months is plenty of time, and since in our climate, your compost is likely frozen much of November through mid April, count one gardening season to the next gardening season. If you use that as a safe rule of thumb and you cannot go wrong.

Ash –
Wood ash is great to add IF it is clean ashes. Dan used to use diesel to start his fires in the firepit, but even months later when you shovel out the fire pit, you can still smell the diesel. Bad sign. We also used to burn a lot of scrap wood that was often varnished or otherwise treated. I have made a concerted effort the last few years, to clean up out fire pit burning so that I can use the ashes in the garden. No gas or diesel. No treated wood, including varnished or oil based painted wood. No coal or charcoal ash, as they contains enough sulfur to make the soil excessively acidic, and harmful to plants. Many charcoal briquets are treated with chemicals. When you’re burning old tree logs, leaves and other brown garden waste, your ashes will be a welcome, moderate addition to your compost bin. As with most things in life, moderation is key.

Diseased or pest infested outside plant material –
NO. Get rid of them. Once in a while I might lose a Delphinean to some kind of infestation. I cut if off, put it into a plastic bag and dispose of it. I do not want to keep it on the property and risk re-infecting a different area. If you have a plant that died inexplicably, don’t risk passing that disease on. Get rid of it. Remove it completely from your property, in a plastic bag.

WHERE?

Where is it going to work for you? Sometimes you don’t have a whole lotta choice. Ideally, you want it in the sun to keep it warm. Ideally, you want it close to your garden so transferring the finished soil is easy. Ideally, you want it away from your sitting area – for obvious reasons. But ‘ideal’ is not always possible. Sometimes, you just have to put it where it fits. And its not like you’re putting in a foundation. If, in a few years, it needs to be moved, then move it.
Don’t fret about the perfect spot for now. Just get it ‘somewhere’ so you can find out if its gonna work there or not. Next spring, you may change your mind if you want.

WHY?

Your compost pile will turn once living matter from your yard and your kitchen into rich, dark, wonderful, soil. Combine yard waste like grass clippings, leaves, and garden weeds with kitchen waste like fruit and vegetable trimmings, even leftover yesterday’s dinner, and you’re good to go. Essentially you’re taking what cannot be used and making it useable. The real question is “WHY NOT?”

Is compost the same as fertilizer?

I like to compare fertilizer to vitamins. For all intents and purposes, it is the same thing: vitamins for plants. Fertilizer feeds plants in a similar way to how vitamin supplements ‘feed’ us. For the record, I am not opposed to vitamins, but they are not ‘food’. And fertilizer is not ‘food’, it is not intended to feed the soil, it is intended to meet the need of specific plants. Rather short term.
Compost on the other hand, is food for the soil. It amends the actual composition of the soil, making and keeping it a healthy home in which healthy plants flourish, Compost and organic fertilizers can work together in the same way that nutritious food and good supplements can work together for our body’s health. The organic matter in compost not only increases fertility by providing trace nutrients that plants need, but also increases its ability to hold moisture, which helps release the nutrients in organic fertilizer. Soil that is regularly amended with aged manure and compost is soil that will stay healthy, providing a healthy environment for plants.

HOW?

How do you go about creating your first Compost?
or How do you resurrect a compost that wasn’t all that successful?

How does Composting work?
Composting will happen with or without you. It is the natural process carried out by millions of tiny creepy crawlies, all uniquely organized for this purpose. Most are microscopic, while others such as worms and insects, you can see. Its that great circle of life. All you have to do is to keep things natural enough that those creatures are welcome and safe in your compost yard.

Different methods
There is no end to the different bins/containers for composting you can employ . From big to small, from free to expensive, from an eyesore to fitting right into your garden – and everything in between. If you’re handy and like the DIY thing, you can make make your own with wood, or a garbage can, or buy one already to go. Your available space will likely be the biggest influencer in your options and will ultimately determine your decision. 

Our first attempts at composting were with varying degrees of success.

#1 was just a wooden frame and we put everything in it with no idea of how to layer, what not to add, how to toss and even what to expect. To sum it up, it was pretty much an organic garbage pile and very unsightly. It was also in a spot visible from the alley, which didn’t endear us to our neighbours I’m sure. And because we didn’t have an end goal, we never really knew when it was ‘done’. I’d like to forget about that one, and my apologies to all our former neighbours, who for the record, were all kind and patient with us. We were young, and most of them were considerably older. I think they thought our efforts were ‘cute’ and they were just glad someone was taking care of the property .

Our #2 was slightly better. Another house. We dug a hole in the far corner of our garden and we tossed everything into it. We had a better idea, but a marginally better plan. In the early spring, we forked it out and spread the resulting rich soil, but other than that, we hardly ever paid attention to it. Unfortunately, on the other side of the fence our neighbours had a nice tidy sitting area. Our compost attracted flies and apparently had an odour we hadn’t made note of. Our neighbour was kind, but asked if we could cover it for his benefit. Sorry again.

the UPRIGHT plastic bin

Our #3 was the purchase of a black upright bin. It cost about $100 which was really pricey for us in those days, but at least it was contained. We filled it up throughout the warm months, let it sit for the winter, and tipped it over in the spring to fork out the resulting soil. There was always a upper layer that didn’t break down, so we put that in the bottom of the current year’s collection. It was more successful. And tidier. The black colour kept it warm in the summer, which helps. My one criticism was that it didn’t allow for much air circulation. That perhaps affected the final result, but it was still adequate for our needs.

Over the years, I paid a little more attention to layering better with greens and browns. Dan and I had different expectations from our compost, and different opinions about what should go into it. *For instance, he didn’t like putting corn husks or cobs into the compost because there were always rogue ‘undigested’ cobs (and egg shells) the following spring. I on the other hand, didn’t mind that. They just got mixed up with the rest of the soil in the spring, and soon enough ceased to exist. That was good enough for me. And in corn season, corn on the cob is a family favourite, so we always had plenty of corn compostables in August. I couldn’t bear to waste them.
*Dan always put the first spring yard mowings into bags and hauled them out to the garbage cans for pick up. He was all about ‘tidy’. If I saw them in time, I’d haul them back into the yard and dump them in the compost ‘area’ as my bin couldn’t handle it all. I am all about ‘compost’. We’re not always on the same page lol.
*If there was anything identifiable left in the compost bin when we emptied it in the spring, Dan felt that it was a failure and we should stop doing it because clearly we don’t know how. I on the other hand, didn’t expect everything to have disappeared, and I didn’t mind those last contributions from the year before still looking like their former lives. So we just agree to not talk about it, and I take care of the compost. It works. We’ve found our peace.

When we moved to our current house, we brought our black upright bin with us, where it served us well for many years. But it began showing its age, and last spring, died. I threw the top half in the garbage and continued using the bottom half till it didn’t suffice anymore. I gave it a proper funeral, and we came up with another style that so far is working beautifully. See below.

the TUMBLER:

A tumbler is a bin designed to turn on an axle or to roll, allowing the ingredients to mix as it is turned. If you have a small yard and garden which is visible to your back deck, then a tumbler may be a good fit. It is neat and tidy, rotates easily – keeping the compost itself tossed and aerated. As it is a closed unit, you don’t have to worry about a bad smell or animals getting into it, and its easy to dump out. It speeds up the process from the whole season, to about half the time.

A tumbler is limited in size and so you’re restricted in the amount you can compost – which may suit you just fine if you don’t have a big yard anyway. They can be kinda pricey, but there are always options to maybe pick one up second hand, or to make one yourself. You will need to make sure you balance your contents out by putting in brown material or you could end up with a stink slimy mess of rotten kitchen produce. They generally have a trap door for adding material, adding water if needed and from which to dump the finished product.

homemade wooden bin with wire netting

I love this style. It is compact, but big enough to last a typical backyard garden all season.

The wire allows for air circulation.
The lid can be closed if there is a lot of rain, but still allows the sun to still do its magic.
I love the trap door in the front which makes it accessible to fork out the bottom next spring.

If its made with cedar it could be a little pricey, but will last a long time, so it will be worth it in my opinion. I’ve seen this same style made with three compartments, allowing for bigger yards, bigger gardens, more material.

Repurposed plastic garbage can

This is our #4 Compost bin, and it is perfect for us right now.
It is an extra large garbage can turned upside down. Dan cut the bottom out for me to make a new ‘top’. He drilled lots of holes around the main body to allow for air. I filled it last summer so we added a second toward the end of the season. The idea is to simply tip it over in the spring, like I did for years with the black one, then fork out the new soil.
Because our compost area is in the very back of our garden, it is rarely visible so it doesn’t need to be ‘pretty’. It is surprising how ‘full’ a compost bin can get and how much it compacts. This can was full to overflowing more than a couple of times during the season, and things would settle as it decomposed, always making room for other material. When I went out to have a look at it recently, it is only about half full, although I know that at the end of the season last fall, I couldn’t put anything else in it.

This image is from a reader – Meagan Kessler, and I am using it with her permission. Look in the upper left of center, about 11:00, to see a garbage can painted the same colour as her fence (brilliant bytheway). It has the bottom cut out of it, and several holes drilled into the body of it to all for more airflow and therefore, better composition.
It is the perfect solution for her small townhouse lot. Meagan said she would did a hole in the spring and empty its mostly composted contents into it, where it would finish the process. Though Meagan says it was less than ideal, it worked well for her over 14 years. At the end of the day, you’d still end up ahead by repurposing all those food scraps and putting them back into your soil. I think its a great example of using what you have, and making what you have work. Thank you Meagan.

Basic Needs

There really is no ‘right’ container, and no ‘wrong’ container. It is completely about what’s gonna work for your situation: your garden/yard size, your budget, your skill level, your level of commitment to composting, your preferences.
– Your compost needs a healthy place to BE.
– It needs a good balance of greens and browns. Browns like sticks and cardboard etc, give the compost structure and provide air pockets.
– Your compost needs air.
– Greens give it nitrogen which speeds up the decomposition.
– It needs moisture, but we all know, that too much ‘wet’ is not good either. If it is pouring rain for days, its good to have a lid to keep your compost from flooding and drowning the tiny creatures that live there. You’ll know if its too wet, it will be slimy and mucky and may begin to smell bad.
– There should be good drainage so that water doesn’t build up in the bottom. Normally, mine just sits on the ground. Sometimes I have small branches and twigs in the bottom, sometimes I’ve even raised the black upright container a little off the ground with bricks or logs.
– Warmth keeps a compost happy. It can’t always be in a sunny spot – we all know there are only so many of those to go around, but try to at least situate it in a warm spot.

Compost is Ready

In the central Alberta climate I live in, (zone 3A), traditional composting season is generally from May through September. I start mine as soon as it is warm enough to dump out last year’s compost – and that is usually further into May than I think it should be. That big clump of compost sometimes takes an extra week or two to thaw – depending on the spring, and how much sun gets to it. But as soon as it has warmed up a bit and I can pull the bin off of it, then its ready to use. It will be dark brown in colour, and look suspiciously like ‘soil’ lol. It will have a pleasant ‘earthy’ smell. Don’t expect it to look like a bag of purchased compost, it’s not likely to be ready all at once. Some of it had most of the summer to decompose, while the last of it was added at the end of the season just before the cold weather hit. There will still be lumps in it, perhaps some egg shells, a few corn cobs, twigs etc. If you’re like me, you likely have some leftover brown material on the top. Don’t worry about that. Just put it in the bottom of your new season’s compost and build on top of it. It can show the new stuff how to do it right.

I use it right away, and I always wish I had more. This year, I’m starting out with two big cans, so I’m hoping to have lots. Use it on top of your garden beds. It’s actually better to leave it on top rather than work it in. That way, the rain will help break it down, and bring the nutrients down will it, into the soil. Use it in your vegetable garden, as mulch around your flower beds, and tomato plants, or mixed with your potting soil. Use around your fruit trees and current bushes.

GREEN MANURE or COMPOST

Comfrey is a perennial herb that has a very deep tap root which draws minerals to the surface and into its large fuzzy leaves. It grows fast and tall, and can be cut a couple of times during the growing season to make a compost activator or to use as a green mulch. Sometimes I chop it down while Dan is mowing the lawn. He mows over top of the comfrey pile, chopping the leaves into mulch, so that I can remove the mower bag and use the mulch wherever I decide I need it.

Another excellent green compost are pea vines. Pretty much do the same thing I do with comfrey. Throw them on the lawn and mow them up. Then throw them into the compost or use as mulch in the garden.

TRENCH COMPOSTING

Early in the spring I am usually ready to start composting before my compost bin from last year is ready to be emptied. I don’t want to add ‘fresh’ kitchen scraps on top of last year’s compost. Sometimes the compost isn’t even completely thawed yet. So what to do? Trench compost. I dig a hole in a part of the garden I am not going to grow root crops. Perhaps zucchini, butternut squash, lettuce, swiss chard, beans, etc.

If its a one time thing, dig a hole and bury it. Simple as that.
If you plan to use the method for a week or two, dig narrow trenches, about a foot deep and the width of your shovel. Heap the soil along side of the trench. Then, as your kitchen scraps become available, dump them into the trench, spreading dirt over each section as you fill it. When your real compost bin is ready, cover it over with 4 or more inches of dirt and pretend its not there. Plant your seeds and enjoy knowing that you have buried treasure in your garden.

I’d love to hear of your adventures with composting, your opinions, and your feedback.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle

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a house should have a cookie jar

Many years ago I happened upon this little poem, and I wrote it down. Where? or when? or from whom? I cannot even venture a guess at this point in time, but it has been in my collection for decades – and I’ll have to leave it at that. When my mom was a little girl she promised herself that when she grew up to be a ‘mommy’, she would ALWAYS have a cookie jar that was full of cookies. I can attest that we had a cookie jar when she was momming, and occasionally it had cookies in it. I on the other hand, made no such promise.

“A house should have a cookie jar for when its half past three
and children hurry home from school as hungry as can be
there’s nothing quite as splendid as spicy, fluffy ginger snaps and sweet milk in a cup.

A house should have a mother, waiting with a hug. No matter what a child brings home, a puppy or a bug
for children only loiter when the bell rings to dismiss
if no ones home to greet them with a cookie and a kiss. “
– annonymous

And that’s all I have to say about that.

But I’d love to hear your experiences with a cookie jar.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle



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Lessons I Learned from my Garden #2

Hope is critical to a positive outcome

All things which come of the earth, in the season thereof, are made for the benefit and the use of man, both to please the eye and to gladden the heart.  (D&C 59:18).

Gardening is a lot about preparation. And waiting. You clean up, rake out, dig up, move around, plan for, mow, chop, burn, haul here and haul there for days and days. It means dirty hands, dirty-all-over, and sore muscles. Then you wait till the forecast is favourable and finally you plant! If you’re like me you plant in stages. Spinach first, assuming it’s bed is ready. Then potatoes and peas, carrots and beets and so forth. Lastly are the delicate bedding plants like tomatoes, hoping that you’re not jumping the gun. And very lastly is basil (persnickety little princess that it is). Its a happy day when everything is looking your way, and the sun appears to commit to a lengthy stay – the tomatoes are finally into their summer home. And then! . . . you wait. . . . sigh . . . .

I cannot be the only gardener who wishes things would grow a littler faster. We can prepare the beds, fertilize, water, mulch, weed and water some more, but I’ve never met a seed in a hurry. Every year I try to be more realistic. “Get real!” I tell myself. “Stop peeking.” I tell myself. And I do. For maybe a week. Then we get a good two day rain, and I cannot help but take the inevitable day-after-the-rain-garden-tour, looking closely for any shoots of . . . anything. If I was honest, I am always disappointed. Having said that however, I am still utterly amazed at the difference two weeks in May can make to a garden.

May 1: my world is brown.
A few hearty weeds starting to unashamedly show themselves, and the promise of buds on a few early trees.

May 15:
The trailing bell flower (I call it devil-weed) is the most hardy green thing in the yard and it’s happy to be alive. (I’m not happy its alive) Dandelion leaves are beautifully tender in texture and taste. More buds on more trees. Most perennials are up, even the hostas have started poking their pointy heads through. Leaves have budded out on the chestnut tree. Blossoms on the Mayday tree, and the scent of them on the breeze. Tulips are blooming. Things are starting to green up.

May 21:

The stupid red lily beetles have sprung out of NOWHERE and are eating every relative of the lily family for miles around. Pink blossoms on the crabapple trees, and white blossoms on the cherry tree. Popcorn literally popping on trees all over our yard. The Delphiniums are two feet high. Mint is poking through the soil. Borage is in the four leaf stage. Mullein is nice and big and fuzzy. Lovage is already three feet high. The bright cheery yellow daisy-like flowers of Leopard Bain are in glorious full bloom. The world is suddenly every shade of green!

June 1:
The garden is full of promise and hope! Above all, hope. When all is said and done, after all is said and done – there is nothing one can do to rush the outcome. What if the carrot seeds don’t germinate? What if that one time I let it go dry was the critical time when they were their most vulnerable? What if stupid idiot cutworms cut the cucumbers off again? (stupid idiot cutworms) What if it hails? I hate hail.

faith vs hope

“One of the most delightful things about a garden is the anticipation it provides.”
– W. E. Johns

I do not have faith that my seeds will germinate. That would be a misplacement of my faith, as I have seen times that seeds have not germinated. Many factors influence that outcome. Of course, I HOPE they will, and I water them as if they will, and I keep hoping till I see it actually happen.

I don’t even have faith that I will have a harvest. Again I hope every year for a good harvest, but my faith is reserved for something much more dependable than the weather, or the fickle nature of ‘nature’. I have faith in God, and in His Son Jesus Christ. I have faith that He will answer my prayers, and that He will bless me according to my diligence and obedience to the laws and principles upon which those blessings are predicated, and of course those He desires to bless me with. I have faith in His promises; promises like families are eternal and that I will see my dad again. Other things I don’t have faith in.

For my garden, I hope the weather will be good. I hope that the sun will be hot. I hope that we’ll get enough rain and that our rain barrels will refill frequently. I hope that day will follow night, and that night will follow day again the way I’m used to. The way I like it. But this year of Covid19 has taught me that even the things I thought were constant and dependable, are volatile and removable. Do I have faith that life will always be what it is right now? Absolutely not.

If there was no hope in a harvest why would we plant a garden?

our city backyard family garden cc 1988

I love garden fresh carrots. Crunchy and juicy at the same time, there is nothing quite like them. But carrot seeds are very small and they take forever to germinate, and keeping them moist while they germinate is critical and truth be told, . . . . . I’m not always on top of it. Watering them can cause a flood and push them all into one area leaving another area empty. You could easily have 8 billion carrots growing so closely together that you must thin them out or they’ll be puny, spindly, little things.

This year I hit upon two reeeeeally good ideas for growing carrots and I happily carried them out. One was to soak the seeds for four days till they begin to sprout, then suspend them in a cornstarch slurry inside a small ziplock bag. You plant them through a small hole snipped in the corner of the bag, squeezing the slurry of seeds into a pre-watered trench. The other idea was to sprinkle the seeds into a pre-watered area and then keep them under a board to protect them from drying out or from being washed away by water. Both hacks required constant moisture of course. I used the best of both ideas and was ‘hopeful’ (even giddy) for excellent results, reasonably certain of a positive outcome. Between hand watering and the rain, I was confident the row never dried out. After about a week I allowed myself to peek, and thereafter peeked almost daily. Carrots can take an easy twenty plus days to germinate (I told you they took forever), but I was delighted to see little white spears poking out of the ground in less than two weeks. I gingerly lifted off the boards to let the sunlight start greening them up. The ground seemed moist enough but I soon got distracted and didn’t get back to them till the next day. Bone dry with not a sign of seedlings I saw the day before. (sad face) I was certain I had killed the tender startlings by uncovering them too soon. I hoped I hadn’t. I watered gently and often, continuing to ‘hope’ for the best but I had lost my prior confidence. I was just considering taking next year’s seeds (I always buy one year in advance) to begin soaking them. Our season is short enough, that every day that goes by gets closer to being too late to start seeds in the garden, so I didn’t have a lotta flex time to weigh it out. I continued to hope, watering daily for the best possible scenario, and checking daily. A few more days and I saw those wonderful grassy-looking tiny bright green speers poking through the dirt along the carrot trails! I am SO glad I didn’t give up.

If hope hadn’t existed I would have ceased to water, ceased to check daily, ceased to expect the best, and consequently I would have sabotaged potential, losing any chance of carrots in my garden this year.

“When the world says give up, hope whispers ‘try it one more time.‘” – anonymous

Hope is a choice. It doesn’t just happen to us; we consciously and intentionally choose it.
Hope strengthens us mentally and emotionally.
Hope provides a positive outlook on life. It literally makes us happy.
Hope reduces stress and anxiety.
Hope improves our general state of health and boosts our immune system.
Hope is essential to our feelings of self worth.
Hope moves us forward and makes the future look like a brighter place, one in which we’d like to live.
Hope energizes us. When we are positive and cheerful it is easier to have energy.
Hope increases faith. And faith increases hope. They are very closely tied together
Hope is healing. Depression is a state of hopelessness, and the opposite is true.
Hope is not stagnate, it is all about ‘doing‘. Acting on hope yields more results than sitting on hope.
Hope is infectious. Just like laughing makes us laugh and smiling makes us smile, hope in another inspires hope in ourselves.
Hope is realistic. Hope in a fairy tale world is not hope, its fantasy. Hope for a pony while you live in an apartment is not hope, it is pleasant musing.

“Every thing that is done is this world is done by hope.” – Martin Luther

The truth is, hope may let you down. It seems cruel but sometimes even those things we have the greatest amount of hope for, don’t happen. Its at those times we wonder why we ever invested in it. It seems briefly that had we not hoped, we wouldn’t have fallen so far, and wouldn’t hurt so much. But for the most part, hope is such a pleasant companion while we’re walking with it, that at the end of the journey, we decide it really was worth it, and we yearn to walk with it again, because with hope everything looked brighter, and our days were better. I wouldn’t ever want to live without it. No matter what happens, I hope ‘hope’ and I can always be friends.

“Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for.” ― Epicurus

~

The next few blog posts will follow the theme of Lessons I learned from my Garden.
I hope you’ll join me. I would love to hear your comments, and your own experiences about lessons learned in your own garden.

Warmly,

Cindy

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Lessons I Learned from my Garden #1

Good things start with a DESIRE

Having grown up on military bases, other than relatives I rarely saw, I never knew any one personally who had a garden. Gardens were exotic places that I saw from a distance when visiting cousins during summer vacation. I really had no clue as to their purpose, or how many hours were spent in them. It wasn’t until I was a newly married 18 year old and heard a wise man say that everyone should plant one, that I even gave the idea more than a cursory nod. Little could I have comprehended then, the life long relationship I would have with my garden.

We planted our first garden in a corner of my mother in law’s vegetable garden our very first summer. A wise man I trusted and loved had openly counselled that we should ALL plant a garden. So we did. We didn’t know a bush bean from a potato plant, but we were enthusiastic and happy to be engaged in the project. By mid summer, morning sickness took over my life and ruled everything I ate, smelled or even thought of. I lost interest in weeding or harvesting that fledgling garden, but my mother-in-law brought an arm full of produce every time she came to visit. I appreciated the gesture, but I really had no interest in anything that ‘smelled’, and that summer, everything ‘smelled’.

I not only felt like a gardening failure, but disloyal to the new wholesome lifestyle it represented. A lifestyle that only a few short months before, I had been so committed to. Some time during the months that followed, that incessant flu-like sickness faded away and we focused on the new baby that would soon be coming to make our family ‘three’. I had such visions of how it was going to be. He arrived in April. We found a house soon after and made an offer to buy it. We were to move in July 1. It had a small spot perfect for a garden and we received permission to plant seeds while we awaited our possession date. We were excited for all it represented, anxious to begin this next step in our life together, but one week before we moved in, Dan got laid off at work. We never did move in, and since we had given notice in our rental, our plans were readjusted quickly. We moved the three of us and everything we owned into Dan’s mom’s basement while we figured out our next step.

Later that summer I learned an important lesson. One of those defining lessons that shapes the rest of your life. That wise man who said everyone should plant a garden, was a prophet (that wasn’t the lesson). His name was Spencer W. Kimball, and when he had said “plant a garden”, it felt like he was speaking directly to me, and I committed to do whatsoever he told me to do (that wasn’t the lesson either). “We encourage you to grow all the food that you feasibly can on your own property.” he said “Berry bushes, grapevines, fruit trees—plant them if your climate is right for their growth. Grow vegetables and eat them from your own yard.” he said “Even those residing in apartments … can generally grow a little food in pots and planters. Study the best methods of providing your own foods. Make your garden … neat and attractive as well as productive. If there are children in your home, involve them in the process with assigned responsibilities.” – Spencer W. Kimball, April GC 1976

He had a way of driving things home, and he spoke to my young heart. He reminded us of the scripture in Luke 6:46 “Why call ye me, Lord, Lord, and do not the things which I say?” He had me. And yet, as that summer ended we were back in another apartment, Dan going to school. Though we had tried to have a garden twice, there we were. Friends generously shared of their excess: cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and other produce, and I marveled at the bounty in my kitchen. I mused this blessing over with a friend one day, saying that I believed we enjoyed more produce this month than we ever could have harvested from our little garden. My wise friend Shirley said “It is because of your garden that you are being blessed this way.“ She pointed out the principle of obedience. That promise that when we obey a law, we receive the blessings associated with it. Plain and simple according to her. The prophet said “plant a garden” – we had. The circumstances surrounding the fact that we didn’t harvest it were incidental. The principle stood. She bore testimony to me in her straight forward way, that I could count on that principle for all the days of my life. “There is a law irrevocably decreed in heaven before the foundations of this world, upon which all blessings are predicated. And when we obtain any blessing from God, it is by obedience to that law upon which is is predicated.” (D&C 130:20,21) THAT WAS THE LESSON. I didn’t know it then, but my life changed that day. I had seen the fruit of the principle with my own two eyes. And yes, Shirley was right, I had planted a garden. Pitiful though it may have been, I had been obedient. I had tried my best to obey. That was all that mattered. God is in the details. He doesn’t ask us to feed five thousand. He asks merely that we bring our loaves and fishes to the picnic. Thank-you Shirley Clelland, for being such a wise friend and such a patient mentor.

I was no longer a girl. I was a mother. With the responsibility now to take care of my little one. And as a mother, there was one thing I knew I wanted – NEEDED. Yearned for. To obtain blessings from God. Which blessings? All of them. And I now knew how to access them. Obey the laws upon which they are predicated. “I the Lord, am bound when ye do what I say; but when ye do not what I say, ye have no promise.” (D&C 82:10) I could think of nothing I wanted more than to have the Lord bound to me, and I committed myself that day to do whatever it took to accomplish that.

There are many lessons I learned from my garden over the years, but they all began from that first one – which was that any good thing must start with a DESIRE to do that good thing. Hearts can change on a dime. I’ve seen it happen. But behaviour takes time. Don’t expect to BE everything in the beginning. Start with the desire to ‘be’. And work from there. Alma summed it up in his sermon to the Zoramites: “But behold, if ye will awake and arouse your faculties, even to an experiment upon my words, and exercise a particle of faith, yea, even if ye can no more than DESIRE to believe, let this desire work in you, even until ye believe in a manner that ye can give place for a portion of my words.” (Alma 32:27)

The next few blog posts will follow the theme of Lessons I learned from my Garden.
I hope you’ll join me. I would love to hear your comments, and your own experiences about lessons learned ‘from’ or ‘in’ your own garden.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle

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Common Herbs in your House and Yard: part 2 Dandelions to Feverfew

Part 2 – D,E,F

in this chapter: Dandelion, Dill, Echinacea, Fennel, and Feverfew
Some inside, some outside. Chapter continues to be a work in progress. I’d love to read your comments below.

DANDELION

– highly nutritious, containing vitamins C and B6, thiamin, riboflavin, calcium, iron, potassium and manganese. Acts as a mild laxative that promotes digestion, stimulates appetite and balances the natural and beneficial bacteria in the intestines.

For the last two years, I have a set aside a special place in my garden called “the Protected Zone”. In it, I plant ‘weeds’. A weed refuge camp, where they are supposed to be safe. I’ve had differences of opinion from time to time with the people who matter most to me about ‘weeds’. I maintain that a weed is only a label for a plant that someone doesn’t find value in, that is growing in a place you don’t want it to grow. Call it whatever you want, but don’t be so narrow minded as to believe that the name means there is no value. Years ago I decided to let poppies, dill, lambs quarters and even chickweed grow in my garden. Because I found a use for them. I don’t let them grow everywhere. I am aware of the aesthetics of my garden, but there are places where they don’t harm others and where they can serve a useful purpose. Dandelions however, can be pretty bossy. They flower and seed and can take over easily so I don’t allow them free reign. But they have something to offer, so at long last – I’ve come up with a solution. A protected zone. Where they are free to grow and BE, so that I can partake of what they want to give me. They have like-minded neighbours that I’ll talk about later.

my daughter created this sign for me to help me protect the weeds in my “protected zone”

People with less vision try to help me out from time to time. They assume that I have missed this dandelion, or that plantain or heaven forbid, I did not know that chamomile was a ‘weed’, . . . . . and so they do me a favour and pull it out. I appreciate good intentions. Really I do! But I have tried to emphasize “That is my protected zone. Don’t touch anything that is in it” more times than I can number.

Why do dandelions have a protected spot in my garden?
Because from top to bottom, the dandelion is a highly nutritious plant, loaded with vitamins and minerals.

The name Dandelion comes from the French term dente de lion, meaning lion’s tooth, and referring to the jagged leaves. A common plant native to Europe, it grows wild almost everywhere in the world, and like so many others immigrated to North America inadvertently with European settlers centuries ago. Don’t get lost in its reputation as a weed, it has remarkable nutritional value. The leaves contain almost as much iron as spinach, and four times more Vitamin A. It contains calcium, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, sodium, Vitamin A and C, and is a power house of antioxidants.

The leaves are a little bitter for me, but their nutritional superiority is hard to ignore. When my kids were little, I would often gather some (from my own yard where I knew they were safe) to add to a summer salad of mixed greens. I made the mistake of doing that once in front of my twelve year old brother-in-law. He did not like the idea, and told on me. “Cindy made me eat ‘leaves’.” (I was glad he didn’t say weeds. His mother was a very plain cook and had a problem accepting me in the beginning as it was.) asked him recently (he’s now 50 and a little more adventurous in his eating) “Do you remember having a problem with that sorta thing at my house?”
YES! He sure does remember! LOL. I wanted to ask if he felt bad about the criticism I took, but I didn’t want to push my luck.

There are many health benefits in addition to nutrition that are attributed to dandelions.
Because of its high amounts of specific vitamins and minerals, dandelion is used for jaundice and other liver disorders, urinary disorders and anemia, as well as inflammation, blood sugar regulation, reducing cholesterol, and lowering blood pressure. Research indicates that dandelion may also have antimicrobial and antiviral properties, which supports your body’s ability to fight infection, making it an immune enhancing herb.

growing

Hahaha – I’m sure no one needs any help figuring out how to grow dandelions, but be sure that any you use are free from sprays intended to kill them. I would never pick a dandelion that didn’t come from my own yard, and sometimes not even then. Hence, the protected zone.

harvesting and using

*Leaves: are more tender and less bitter in the early spring. Simply snip the leaves from your protected plants, as you would any other garden green. Wash in warm water, and dry as you would leaf lettuce. Cut them up to add into a salad to distribute among the other greens. Studies indicate that bitter flavours are great for digestion and curbing sugar cravings. Eating more dandelion can be as simple as sprinkling a handful of chopped leaves into your next salad. Or use them in sandwiches like you would leaf lettuce.

The leaves can be sautéed in oil and added to casseroles or soups, or other dish of greens. Many people like the “earthy, nutty, pleasingly bitter flavour”, that has been compared to the taste of endive.

*Flowers: can be picked when they are nice and young. Remove all green from the underside, not because it’s bad for you, but because it doesn’t taste good. Toss into your salad whole. Some people batter the blossoms and deep fry them like a fritter.

Or make a dandelion iced tea. NOT kidding! It is quite delicious and refreshing. Pick lots of dandelion flower heads, wash them by gently swishing in cool water. You’ll be surprised how much dirt will settle in your water when you thought they were clean. Put them in a clean pot and pour boiling water over to cover and a few more inches. Let them steep for an hour or two till completely cooled. You can drink anywhere along the line, the only difference is gonna be whether its hot or cold, and the strength of the infusion of course. I’ve drunk it hot, room temperature and cold from the fridge. I like it all ways, but probably chilled is my favourite. Surprisingly it does not need any sweetener. I think it would be good with lemon, but I’ve never felt the need to add any.

*Roots: are good throughout the growing season. Some say they’re better in early spring, but I can’t say that I’ve noticed a difference. When digging, make sure you dig deep down to get as much of the root as possible. Cut them off the plant and soak them in water to loosen the dirt. Brush and rub together to clean, changing water as needed.

To make a coffee-like hot drink (decoction): chop into small pieces no more than 1/2 an inch. Heat your oven to 375° F, and place roots on a dry pan to toast for 20-30 minutes (depending on how many you have in the pan). I know it seems like a high temperature, but its okay – you can trust me, just don’t walk away and leave them alone. (If you’re worried about the temperature, reduce your heat to 350 degrees and expect to add a few more minutes.) Check every five minutes or so, and toss them around when they begin to toast keeping the toasting even. The pieces should smoke a little and give off a light chocolaty, earthy aroma while cooking. When most of them look like ‘chocolate’ pieces, and snap apart easily they are done. Allow them to cool, and then store them in an airtight jar out of sunlight.

to prepare your ‘coffee’

Use the toasted dandelion pieces as is (2 Tablespoons for 2 cups of water), bring the water to a boil and lightly brew/simmer for 10-15 minutes. Your water will reduce by about half so you’ll end up with one cup. – OR – Throw your toasted root bits into the blender and blend to a coarse crumble – (like cocoa nibs). To prepare your drink, pour boiling water over top of the nibs (1 Tablespoon to 1 cup of HOT water) and steep as you would a loose leaf herbal tea. Let it sit five minutes or longer, and test for strength and adjust your amounts according to taste. Strain, and enjoy.

For variety, consider adding a cinnamon stick or some cardamom seeds to your cup from time to time. A nice warming hot drink for a cold winter evening.

Dandelion root is often dried and consumed as a coffee substitute, but I’m told it can also be eaten in its whole form. I have never tried to eat it this way, that might be for another year. I’m just happy with what I’ve got now.

DILL

– hardy garden herb. Self seeds, but best to sow new seed every year if you want a nice dependable crop.

growing

I lightly broadcast seed once my garden beds are ready to plant.  If you have a bigger garden and can spare the room, grow dill in its own bed close together so that the stalks support each other.  I don’t have room to grow a bed of dill, so I broadcast it among other plants in my vegetable and even flower beds.  As it will grow about 3 feet tall, I like it interspersed with low plants like cucumbers. This also assists the plant with stability when the wind blows. It loves sun, and is a happy plant that is synonymous with ‘summer’ in my eyes.  Especially when its green.  For a continual harvest, sow repeatedly from early spring to early summer.  

harvesting and using

Once it starts to go to seed, it means the summer is over so I do everything I can to delay its seeding.  I pick as much of the green ferny leaves as I can throughout the growing season, trying to delay the inevitable, and using them almost daily in my meals. 

 I use most of my dill when it is green: the dill weed. I clip as much of the green leaves as I can find, coarsely chop on a board to add it to dishes at the last minute, preserving its wonderful but delicate flavour.  What I don’t use immediately, I freeze in a container to use all winter long simply by scraping out of the container with a fork and returning the remainder to the freezer.  Make the most of it with all summer produce like cucumbers, zucchini and tomatoes, and in spreads, dips and sauces. It is classic with fish, eggs and potatoes.  One of my favourite summer recipes is fresh garden potatoes boiled with a creamy dill sauce poured over top.  Adding to potato salad makes all the difference, and put lots in a creamy cucumber salad dressing.   

recipe below

recipe: Buttermilk Dill Dressing
in blender, put aprox 2 cups fresh dill weed and 1/2 cup buttermilk. Puree.
Add 1/2 cup of chopped chives, garlic chives, green onion, or chopped onion. Your choice.
Puree again.
Add 1/3 cup mayonnaise, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon sugar.
Puree again.
That’s it! Ready to pour over your fresh garden salad.
If you would a thicker creamier dressing, separate 1/2 cup dressing and stir in some plain yogurt or sour cream to it. To your desired consistency.
If you would like to make a vegetable dip:
4 oz cream cheese, softened. Beat with hand mixer till fluffy. Add dressing, a tablespoon at a time, beating between each addition. Continue until you are happy with the consistency and flavour. You might even want to add a little more chopped dill, for texture to your dip.

Although I do everything I can do to prevent my dill from going to seed, its gonna happen eventually.  The seed is very valuable in the kitchen too.  Use crushed or whole to flavour soups, sauces, breads and salad dressings. Steep the seeds in hot water to make a ‘tea’. 

Even the stem can be used and is delicious.  When small and tender, chop it up right along with the leaves.  When the plant is older and the stems are older, use them to flavour soup stock just like you’d use a bay leaf.  Add them to the cooking water of boiled potatoes.  The flowers too are edible and look beautiful in summer arrangements on my kitchen table.

Medicinal Benefits:
Seeds are steeped into a ‘tea’ to treat flatulence, digestive disorders and stomach pain.  For all these attributes it is often used to soothe colicky babies. Or a little essential oil in water would do the same thing.  Dill seeds act as breath-fresheners.

ECHINACEA (cone flower)

Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower) is a perennial flowering plant native to North America (east of the Rocky Mountains), and a very popular home garden choice. It has a large center cone, surrounded by colourful petals and it brightens up the garden in mid-summer. While considered a perennial, a healthy echinacea plant can be expected to grow from 3 – 5 years in your garden. So if you thought you had a good thing going and one spring your echinacea didn’t come back, stop taking it so personally. If planted by seed, it may reseed itself to continue its presence in your garden, but depending on so many different factors it is impossible to count on it.

Echinacea was used medicinally by the native people of North America, and adopted by settlers. It became popular for household use up until the mid 1900’s when antibiotics became the miracle drug of the 20th century, but in the last few decades it is regaining its former rockstar status, and is now commonly purchased over-the-counter as an herbal remedy.

Studies have linked echinacea to reduced inflammation. It seems to activate chemicals in the body responsible for decreasing inflammation, and is purported to have immune enhancing properties. These attributes make it a popular herb when treating upper respiratory ailments and the flu. All parts: flower, leaves and roots are believed to stimulate the body’s immune system, and are used in tablets, tinctures, extracts and teas. I’ll tell you right now, it tastes awful, so keep that in mind. I’ve never been able to disguise its yucky taste, so be prepared to buck up and get it over with. My kids used to call it “yuck-i-necea”.

growing:

I have only ever purchased my plants from a garden center, but they are kind of a pricey plant and I’ve had the disappointment several times when they didn’t come back in the spring. Evidently one can take cuttings from happy plants, as Echinacea responds well to root divisions, so I think I’ll be trying that this summer (2020). Also, I have never done it but I understand that Echinacea Purpurea (the desirable choice for medicinal properties), grows readily from seed, so I’ll be looking for seeds from my plants at the end of this growing season to start indoors next spring.
The seeds are supposed to germinate in ten to twenty days, so for me, in zone 3 that means it is better to sow indoors in containers and then transplant outside later. This also avoids competition from weeds until the plants are strong and growing well.

I have my Echinacea Purpurea in well drained soil that gets a good amount of sun. Once they were established they do well with a normal amount of watering – this year the rain sufficed. Remember, they’re indigenous so they can tough out most natural drought conditions, but they’re not a cactus or a succulent so they’re gonna do better when you give them water. To give them every chance for success, keep the weeds from competing for sun and moisture. I have them in my herb garden around some pretty aggressive plants like St John’s Wort, Borage and Feverfew. I have to go in and referee once in awhile to keep the bullies down.

Leave the plants standing through winter to feed the birds, and trim back in the spring to encourage bushier plants that bloom longer into the season. Coneflowers are prolific bloomers that will keep blooming the whole summer. Each flower remains vibrant for several weeks. Deadheading in the key, and is the primary maintenance. Keeping the plants deadheaded will ensure you keep getting more flowers.

You can use the petal, leaves and roots, but it is generally believed that the roots contain the most active compounds.

harvesting:

roots: Best to harvest in the fall, after the flowers have gone to seed and after a couple of frosts. Cut only a portion of the root so that the plant will come back in the spring. Wash the root thoroughly and then cut it into small pieces about half-inch, lay loosely on a clean tea towel in a well ventilated area and out of direct sunlight. It could take a week or more for the pieces to dry so don’t rush it. If you have a dehydrator, you’ll shorten the time. When you are certain they are completely dry, store them in an airtight glass container out of the light.

flowers and leaves: Best to harvest when they are fresh and new, right after the flowers begin to bloom. Cut each stem just above the first set of leaves. Rinse to ensure they’re free of dust and hang upside down to dry or lay them flat on a clean tea towel or screen. If hanging, tie a paper bag around the flower, as the petals will drop. When the leaves and petals are completely dry, store them in a sealed glass jar. As always, keep the jar out of the light.

using:

An infusion (herbal tea) is the best way to use the leaves and flower petals. To infuse means to steep in liquid, usually hot or warm. It is a gentle preparation usually used to extract flavour, and is what we commonly refer to as ‘tea’ when not using true “tea leaves”. An ‘herbal tea’ is always an INFUSION. Keeping it covered during the steeping, ensures the aroma doesn’t escape in the air. It can be served hot, or cooled and served chilled. For echinacea, use about a tablespoon of dried leaves and flowers to each cup of water. Steep for 15-20 minutes, strain and serve.

A decoction (coffee is more of a decoction) is prepared a little more aggressively, and is generally used for roots. It is a longer process and requires continued heat, keeping the water gently boiling. It involves the extraction of substances that an infusion cannot accomplish. For echinacea decoction, use 2 Tablespoons of dried root in 3 cups of water. Simmer for 20-30 minutes, strain and serve.

. . . . more to come

FENNEL

I’ll be honest. Fennel as an herb is relatively new to me. I’ve used fennel seeds in spaghetti sauce for years (my sister-in-law Pat shared her secret with me when we were both young married), but my son Zack recently taught me that toasting them in a hot skillet for a few minutes brings their flavour to a whole new level. I hope I am never tempted to skip this step in the future. Fennel seed has a unique herbal flavor, reminiscent to anise. Licorice-like but don’t let that turn you away if you’re not a licorice fan.

Toasting fennel seeds give off a wonderful aroma that is hard to describe – it is so wonderful. Fennel extraordinaire. Toasted, there is a nuttiness added to the flavour that they didn’t before. Zack spoke so highly about the whole “experience” that I went out and bought some seeds that very week to try it. Go ahead and do the same thing.

Fennel has a rich history. It is indigenous to the Mediterranean region where it was used anciently. Gradually it migrated east and north where it became popular in Northern Europe and the Far East. It is a main ingredient of the famous Chinese Five Spice mixture. It is used in toothpastes and as a breath freshener in India. (that does not appeal to me)
It is a member of the carrot family, and closer to parsley than it is to its very close-look-alike ‘dill’. Every part of the plant is edible and is used in very different ways.

One of my culinary and garden experiments this year (2020) is fennel. I planted only one fennel plant, but you can bet next year I will be planting a whole row next year. I’ve been using the ferny fennel fronds chopped in salads for a long time and I am looking forward to harvesting the bulb as a vegetable. This means I won’t be able to let it go to seed for harvest later, but I know I’ve got enough purchased seed on hand for now. I’ll plan to harvest seed next year.

growing:

Fennel is a poor companion in the vegetable garden and it will cross pollinate with dill so I try to keep them separate. As I broadcast dill freely, keeping them separate is a bit of a challenge. Since I am interested in fennel seed AND the bulb, and I cannot get the seed if I harvest the bulb before it seeds, it seems to me that planting it as a vegetable should be safe in my vegetable garden. Some gardeners say they grow fennel in raised beds close to vegetables as it encourages helpful predatory insects to the garden. Letting one or two of those plants go to seed so that I can harvest the seed should be sufficient for my needs. I have read as many pros to growing fennel with vegetables as I have read cautions, so I guess I’m just gonna have to learn from my own experience.

There is one rules that I will follow:
1. Dill and fennel are kissing cousins. As they are closely related, dill and fennel should not be planted near each other because they cross pollinate, and mixing will yield a very disappointing result with a bitter taste and lack of vibrancy to both.

*mature dill will stunt growth of carrots

using:

Leaves:
The feathery green leaves of fennel at first glance look like DILL, but once you see them in the garden together you’ll see that fennel is a lot more compact, and doesn’t go to seed as readily. (don’t use the word ‘together’ too literally, dill and fennel are NOT good garden companions. See above.) Clip the greenery throughout the season as needed and chop coarsely to add to salads, and other cold dishes. You can also make a lovely herbal tea with the leaves. While dill leaves lose their wonderful taste with drying, not so with fennel. So drying the leaves for winter teas is a good option.

Bulb:
I am told that you can sneak off a few outer layers of the bulb mid season without harvesting the whole plant, so you can continue to benefit from the greenery. But generally, like any root crop (although the bulb grows above ground), once you harvest the bulb – the plant is done.
Thinly slice the root bulb to use as a vegetable, fresh in salads or to lightly saute in stir fries, or to cook in other dishes.

Seeds:
Toasting the seeds brings out (and magnifies) their natural scent and flavour.
Gently grind them in a mortar and pestle to release the oil (and therefore flavour).
Add them in everything to everything Italian.
Add them with curry powder, or where you would normally use curry powder.
Add them in or on your homemade bread.

How to toast fennel seeds?
You can store them in a tightly sealed jar, but I only toast what I am going to use right away. It only takes 5 minutes and it doesn’t dirty any dishes so its quick and easy.

Heat an ungreased skillet over high heat. Once its warm, place your fennel seeds on the surface and either use a wooden spoon to stir or shake the pan to keep seeds moving so they don’t burn. Some may even ‘pop’ a little. Don’t walk away, it will only take three or four minutes. When they’ve become a nice toasty colour and are starting to become noticeably fragrant, remove from heat. Pour onto clean plate to cool. Best to remove the seeds from your skillet to prevent scorching.

as an herb
Fennel is most known for helping with digestion, probably more specifically in dealing with INdigestion, and related problems like heartburn, bloating, and colic in infants.

If you are prone to these digestive ailments, you might want to add more fennel to your diet to head them off before they occur. Having cold fennel water in the fridge to sip during the day will not only give you the benefit of fennel, but also the great benefit of adding more water to your diet – which will help immensely.

Bring 3-4 cups water to a boil, add 2 Tablespoons of fennel seed, reduce heat and simmer 10-15 minutes. Drink as a hot tea, or cool and sip as a cold drink throughout the day.
Giving a colicky infant a tablespoon or two of fennel water will help ease stomach upset and gas.
Alternatively, try steeping fennel seeds in water for a couple hours. This will give a pleasant flavour to the water and will be a refreshing drink throughout the day.
Chewing fennel seeds is also supposed to help, and many people recommend it, but this doesn’t appeal to me. I guess its all about what will work for you. Incorporate fennel into your diet in any way you can.

FEVERFEW

– Good for arthritis, fever, headaches, migraine headaches, and menstrual cramps.

My mother-in-law introduced me to Feverfew. (Not Geoff’s mom. I was lucky enough to have two mothers in law.) She was the first person I knew who grew it in her garden. She ate one leaf a day all summer long to prevent migraine headaches which she was predisposed to suffer from. She swore by it. For a couple of years, I worked in a health food store and came to know feverfew as an herbal supplement. It had good science behind it, and customers continually gave me good reviews when I asked about it. I have never had a migraine, but I have two sisters who suffered from them, and a son, so I decided to add it to my herb garden. I got my first starter plant from my mother-in-law’s garden, and its held an honoured spot there for almost three decades.

growing

Feverfew is a cheerful, ferny plant with lots of pretty small white daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. It is adaptable and low maintenance. It loves full sun and well drained soil, but is agreeable to partial shade. When the flowers are mature / ripe, their yellow centers will begin to dry and brown into seeds. I usually take two or three of these seed heads and sprinkle them among my entire garden. That will give me hundreds of volunteer pop-up plants for next summer. They are a biennial which means they flower and go to seed in their second year. They don’t come back the next spring, but lots of little feverfew babies do. Like Charlotte in E.B. White’s classic children’s tale CHARLOTTE’S WEB.

In its second year, in a favourable spot it can grow to up to 20 inches. A nice bushy, ferny plant. Feverfew is easy to remove where you don’t want it, and its easy to transplant too. Its just an easy going friend, who doesn’t take offense. I allow it to grow profusely in my herb garden, flower gardens and even a few in my vegetable garden. Just because we’re friends, and we get along well.

Feverfew is such a pretty plant, it brings me joy. The taste however, . . . it may have medicinal qualities, but it would never make it in the kitchen. That’s okay. You can’t be every thing to everybody. The taste is strong and bitter to me. My mother-in-law said she’d have to put it in a mouthful of something else to eat it. And that is exactly what I would have to do. Be creative. You only have to eat one leaf.

Feverfew is NOT a pain reliever, so don’t take it when you’re in the middle of a migraine. It is a preventative. I have never suffered from a migraine, and rarely get bad headaches, but those who take one pill a day, or one leaf a day as prevention, swear by it. It is effective in decreasing frequency and severity, and many people I have spoken to about it, say that their headaches are significantly fewer and more manageable.
It is also used to relieve chronic premenstrual cramping.

harvesting

So easy and straight forward. Best to clip from a second year plant when its in flower. If you are using feverfew fresh, it’s best to cut it as you need it. Just remove and leaf and chew it. Good luck. It taste terrible. Try doing what my mother-in-law suggested. Put it in your mouth with something better and get it over with quickly.

feverfew herb in the garden

For winter storage, cut only 1/3 of the plant to let it rejuvenate for a second same-season harvest. Cut the stems, leaving about 4 inches. Swish the stems in cool water to wash and flick off excess water. Lay the leaves flat out on a screen or clean tea towel to dry, tossing a couple of times a day till completely dry. Or if you prefer, tie feverfew branches in a bundle and allow to dry hanging upside down in a dark, ventilated and dry area.
You can also dry feverfew in a slow oven at 140 degrees F. ) or a dehydrator. Just keep an eye on it, because it won’t take as long as you might think.

I’d love to hear your thoughts on these herbs and your experience or recipes for them.
Watch for sequel posts on other herbs in the garden or in the house.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle

Posted on

Common Herbs and Spices in your House and Yard: an Introduction

“… all wholesome herbs God hath ordained for the constitution, nature, and use of man” D&C 89:10

As I worked on this post, it became much too long for a single entry. Consider this an introduction as there will be several posts discussing herbs we can use daily, and also grow in a northern climate such as Edmonton, Alberta.

SYNOPSIS:
Growing herbs is one of the most delightful things about summer, and is a perfect first experience with gardening. Herbs are among the easiest plants to grow, usually very forgiving, pleasingly fragrant, lovely to use decoratively, and the majority can be used in the kitchen as well as around the home. Many have additional health benefits that are worth exploring. This article was first drafted to be ‘notes’ I was using for a class I taught. I have edited and expanded several times since originally compiling them, and it soon became too long and detailed for simple class-notes. I originally intended to review my ‘Top 10 Herbs’ for household use: how to grow them and how to use them. But that number grew to my ‘top 15’, then my ‘top 20’, and now I’m not even going to pretend to keep my list to a number. I will likely be adding to it or expanding on the information as I have more time, experience and inclination to do so. Of course there are many I won’t be able to include, but that doesn’t mean I don’t find value in them. Its just that where does one draw the line, right?

The definition of an HERB is “a flowering plant whose stem above ground does not become woody”. In the mid 19th century, the term included vegetables. So in the scripture quoted above (D&C 89:10) “all wholesome herbs . . .” refers to more than simply what we nowadays consider ‘herbs’.   This is important to note as one reads further into the chapter, and finds repeated admonitions to eat fruits and herbs.

Another difference is where they come from on the plant. For instance, cinnamon comes from the bark of a tree so it is considered a ‘spice’. Ginger is a root, so it is considered a spice. Some plants produce both herb and spice, like cilantro. In its leaf form this plant produces a very popular leafy herb, but if you leave it too long, it goes to seed it produces coriander seeds – a spice. If we are using the leafy part, the stem or the flower, we’re often referring to it as an ‘herb’. The bark, root and seed are most often considered a spice.
Moral of the story is to not get too hung up about the difference and trying to nail down exactly what this or that is. There are exceptions to every rule.

But for certain, there are many herbs and spices that we have in our gardens and homes which are of value to our bodies in more ways than we’re currently using them. It is good to be open minded, creative and willing to try new things. You may discover things you never knew before.  And whether you live in a house with a yard, a condo with a patio, an apartment with a balcony, or a basement suite with a sunny window, there are herbs you can grow, and ways they can make your life better. If sun is an issue, consider using grow lights, perhaps even try dabbling into hydroponics.

When we use herbs for self care, we should be treating minor ailments, not serious life threatening illnesses, and for more serious situations it is important not to self diagnose. Make sure you are using them correctly, buying from reputable sources or being absolutely sure of identification if growing or gathering.

Not all herbs are good for you:

Don’t underestimate their effect, and don’t assume the words “natural” and “herb” are synonymous for “healthy“. Just because it grows in your garden does not mean its good for you. For example, Lily of the Valley is a beautiful plant with a simple, elegant and innocent looking flower, but the entire plant is extremely poisonous. Even the water you place the flower in contains deadly traces of its poison. Hydrangea is gorgeous, but other than the roots, the rest of the plant is very poisonous.

Also important, is to use the correct part of the plant. For example don’t substitute the root if it calls for the leaf etc. Rhubarb leaves are poisonous but their stalks are delicious and super nutritious. Potatoes are wonderful, but their leaves and sprouts are poisonous as are parts of the potato itself if allowed to go green. All of the tomato plant – other than the fruit, is poisonous. So just because one part is good, doesn’t mean it all is.

Be open minded and willing to experiment, but be smart.

When using an herb for the first time, start with a small amount and test for allergic reactions. Pregnancy and while nursing is not the time to be experimenting with ‘new’ herbs, in fact it is as advisable to avoid most herbs as you would avoid most drugs. Never underestimate their efficacy. Many drugs come from herbs.

I am looking forward to sharing this journey with you. And I’d love to hear about your experiences both growing and using herbs, especially your recipes.

Warmly,

Cindy Suelzle
Backyard City Homestead