It’s March as I write this, so lets talk about some of the earliest vegetables we can grow where I live – in the Edmonton, Alberta area. Spinach, peas, and onions are great choices for early-season planting as they are relatively cold-tolerant and actually thrive in cooler temperatures. This allows us to plant them as soon as the soil is workable in spring, even when there’s still a chance of frost.
1. all cool-season crops
Spinach, garden peas and onions are cool-season crops. They grow best in the cooler temperatures of early spring and late summer. Garden peas thrive in temperatures between 10-18°C (50-65°F), and onions also perform well in cooler weather, with optimal growth occurring during spring and late summer / early fall.
2. similar soil requirements
All three prefer well-drained, fertile soil with a pH level of 6.0 to 7.0. They benefit from soil enriched with organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure. Proper soil preparation helps provide the necessary nutrients and ensures good drainage, preventing waterlogged roots. All of them will do better when mulched. This protects the soil and the plant, reducing the need for continual watering, and the competition of weeds. It also keeps the soil soft and less prone to compact.
3. similar hardiness to frost
Planting early in the season, even before the last frost will not hurt any of them, so you can get a jump on the growing season with them. All three will tolerate light frosts, especially spinach and peas, which are famous for being frost-tolerant during their early growth stages. Onions not as much, but still pretty hardy.
4. similar planting time
Spinach and Peas
You can plant spinach while there is still snow on the ground. Go ahead and plant in March if you want. I have an area in my garden that is close to the house, so it warms up sooner than the main garden. Snow melts there first. Its the perfect spot to plant spinach. Spinach likes full sun to partial shade and optimal soil temperatures are 5 – 20 degrees Celcius (45-70 degrees Fahrenheit). The sun warms the soil while you’re not looking, so don’t waste those precious spinach-days just because you don’t want to sit outside in the sun yourself yet. Plant up to a month before the last expected frost day, and up to a week or two after at most. If you haven’t planted your spinach by the end of May, save your seeds and plant next year.
I’ve had great success planting spinach in mid-September for an early spring harvest. Many years ago, I learned that spinach could be planted in the fall, so I decided to give it a try. I planted it at the beginning of September, and within a couple of weeks, the spinach sprouted and began to leaf out. I was thrilled—until an early snowstorm hit and stuck around. I shrugged it off, thinking, “Well, that’s just fall for you. Sometimes that happens.” But the following March, as the snow began to melt, I was amazed to find those little spinach plants still green! As the sun warmed the days, they sprang back to life. By the time I would typically be planting my garden, we were already harvesting spinach! What started as a fortunate accident became a total game changer for me and deepened my respect for this hardy northern vegetable. Spinach is a surprisingly tough plant, and it really shows how adaptable it can be to different growing conditions. Planting it at the end of the season could yield a late summer harvest if the weather holds out, but if the weather turns too cold, you still have the perfect head start for early spring harvests.
Spinach and peas should be (as in – prefer to be) planted early in the spring once the soil has thawed and can be worked. Although I hesitate to mention a date because we have to read the weather and every year is different, I would still suggest that by the end of April, you’d be safe in planting both. At that time, there is still a high probability for a surprise late frost or even unexpected snow, but don’t be deterred – spinach and peas laugh at spring snow. Spring snow is wet and heavy, and doesn’t last long. I always consider it winter’s last bluff. Winter’s over and it knows it, but sometimes it just feels better about things if it can get the last word in. That’s okay. Let it. You’ll be picking both by the time other plants are just poking their heads above ground – then we can see who got the last laugh.
Spinach first – mid April or even earlier. Peas a week or two later – toward the end of April. Onions closer to the beginning of May.
Onions
While not as cold-tolerant as spinach or peas, onions can still withstand slightly cooler temperatures and can be planted early, especially when choosing varieties specifically bred for early harvest. Plan to plant as soon as the soil warms up in early May.
I usually plant my onions from seedlings which I either purchase or start indoors six to eight weeks in advance, or ‘sets’. Seedlings are young plants, while onion ‘sets’ are small, immature bulbs sold in mesh bags. Sets are grown from seed, then harvested and dried before they fully mature. They look like little mini onions, and you usually buy them in a mesh or paper bag. Both methods give your onions a head start, increasing the likelihood of a full harvest.
Our growing season simply isn’t long enough to plant seeds directly in the garden—you’ll likely be disappointed if you try.
5. Planting
Spinach
Plant spinach, in rich, well drained soil in a SUNNY location. Just because it likes cool weather does not mean it doesn’t need sun. You can plant in rows, or by broadcasting which is what I do, as my place for it is relatively small. I sow the seeds sparsely allowing for room between each plant and cover with a thin layer of nice fluffy soil. Water well.
As they grow, thin the young plants out to two or three inches apart. Don’t waste the thinnings, add them to your salad or throw into just about anything you happen to be making for dinner. Keep soil moist with mulch. Test the moisture level with your hands from time to time – you may be surprised at how well the mulch protects the soil.
Peas
Peas should be planted about as deep as the seed is big, and about an inch apart. Planting in elevated rows keeps the soil warmer, and as will all vegetables keep them mulched throughout the season. As they grow, go ahead and thin them out if they’re too crowded – young pea sprouts / plants are tender and tasty. Add to a salad or stir fries.
Peas need something to climb or they’ll laze all over the place getting into everybody’s business and causing trouble. A trellis, some netting that you’ve staked up, some tall interwoven sticks, …. be creative, just give them a place to grow UPward.
Onions
Onion seedlings are planted to the top of the white ‘bulb area’, and onion bulbs (sets) are planted about an inch deep. Both are planted about two inches apart, in a nice SUNNY location with loose, loamy, well draining soil that has been enriched with good compost. You’ll notice on onion sets that there is a distinct root end and a sprout (pointy) end. Plant root down, point end up. Once they start growing, you can (and you should) use them as you would green onions, continually thinning them out till they’re between four to six inches apart. This allows for good airflow and room to spread out.
As with all vegetables, plant in rows that are elevated, and keep mulched throughout the season to maintain moisture, prevent weeds and protect the soil. Rotate their location every spring to prevent disease – as you would every other vegetable in your garden.
6. Keeping them healthy
Pay attention to your vegetables. You should be checking them from time to time throughout the year, and can often be picking tender young plants for weeks. This regular care will help you monitor for things like pests or disease. Proper rotating of vegetables each year is a good practice to prevent soil borne diseases and pests that may winter over. Keeping them thinned allows for good air flow and natural pest control.
Learning about good companion plants and trying to keep ‘friends’ together makes for good and happy garden neighbourhoods.
Over watering, not watering enough or watering inconsistently invites distress and disease.
6. Good Companions
Spinach doesn’t really need too many companions as it is happy to grow when most plants are just waking up in the spring, and there aren’t many pests active yet either.
Peas do well in the company of beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, lettuce, marigolds, peppers and potatoes. I have peas planted in amongst my cucumbers, climbing on the same trellis.
Onions do well in the company of beets, brassicas of all kinds, carrots, dill, lettuce, tomatoes and even strawberries. I have a large chive plant growing in the middle of my strawberry patch.
XXX – Peas do NOT like Onions, so keep them separated. Apparently, onions stunt the growth of peas.
7. Harvesting
Spinach
You can harvest during the entire growing season, beginning by thinning the plants out and eating the baby plants. As they grow bigger, clip the larger outer leaves first allowing the inner leaves to mature. Harvest frequently so as not to waste anything. As the weather grows warmer the spinach will be less happy and start to bolt (got to seed). You’ll see that seeds will start to form on the top spikes. This signals that the plants are in distress and are preparing to die. You can let one or two go to seed if you want to collect the seed, but pull the rest up to eat while they’re still good.
Peas
Peas are typically harvested when the pods are plump with nice round peas formed inside, but still tender. The difference between tender and old can be a matter of days so be attentive. There’s nothing as wonderful as fresh tender garden peas, but old peas are dry, tough and yucky. You can save a few plants to let the seed ripen to use for next year, but keep on top of the other plants. In the Edmonton area, your peas should be ready to harvest in the first part of July. Don’t let them get old.
Onions
I pick onions all summer long, from the early thinnings to the odd one that isn’t quite mature enough to harvest, but is needed for supper. But to truly “harvest”, onions are ready when the tops fall over and begin to go brown – clearly trying to communicate to you that something has changed. The bulbs will be plump and mature. Don’t be in a hurry. Let them die back and dry in the garden for a while. You can pull them out, but if the soil doesn’t easily, loosen a little with your garden fork.
Lay them in a sheltered dry spot to further dry and cure for from two to four weeks. Curing removes moisture and protects onions from rot and mildew, maximizing their storage life. While curing, keep them out of excessive heat and prevent them from rain or other moisture. When they are completely cured, you can transfer then to a container allowing for good air circulation in a cool spot.
Recipe: Spinach, Garden Pea and Onion Salad
2 cups fresh peas (or frozen or freeze dried)
2 cups fresh baby spinach leaves
1/2 chopped fresh onion (red or white), or equal amount of green onions or finely chopped winter onion
1/4 cup pesto
Lightly steam your peas if desired, or use fresh from the garden. If using freeze dried peas, refresh with water till tender (will only take a few minutes).
Use whatever onion is growing in your garden. Often times, I’ll harvest an immature onion that I’m thinning out and use the bulb and greens together.
Place peas, spinach and onion in a bowl and toss with pesto to lightly coat everything.
Top with some crumbled feta or slivered fresh parmesan cheese.
Enjoy
Other cool weather crops that you can plant early
Other cool weather vegetables to plant early are: beets, radishes, swiss chard and carrots. These can generally be in the ground by the beginning of May. By the middle of the month, plant your potatoes.
Warm weather plants like the soil to be warm when you tuck them in. Wait another week for tender plants like beans and corn. Tomatoes are native to South America, so they like it hot. I wait till the long range forecast is for WARM weather to plant them out in the garden. Tomatoes are an important part of my growing season, and I don’t want to risk losing them to a rogue cold snap. I plant my cucumbers and squash outside about the same time as the tomatoes – after all danger of frost is past.
It’s not too early for starting to plan your garden.
I’d love to hear what vegetables you plant early.
Warmly,
Cindy