Having grown up on military bases, other than relatives I rarely saw, I never knew any one personally who had a garden. Gardens were exotic places that I saw from a distance when visiting cousins during summer vacation. I really had no clue as to their purpose, or how many hours were spent in them. It wasn’t until I was a newly married 18 year old and heard a wise man say that everyone should plant one, that I even gave the idea more than a cursory nod. Little could I have comprehended then, the life long relationship I would have with my garden.
We planted our first garden in a corner of my mother in law’s vegetable garden our very first summer. A wise man I trusted and loved had openly counselled that we should ALL plant a garden. So we did. We didn’t know a bush bean from a potato plant, but we were enthusiastic and happy to be engaged in the project. By mid summer, morning sickness took over my life and ruled everything I ate, smelled or even thought of. I lost interest in weeding or harvesting that fledgling garden, but my mother-in-law brought an arm full of produce every time she came to visit. I appreciated the gesture, but I really had no interest in anything that ‘smelled’, and that summer, everything ‘smelled’.
I not only felt like a gardening failure, but disloyal to the new wholesome lifestyle it represented. A lifestyle that only a few short months before, I had been so committed to. Some time during the months that followed, that incessant flu-like sickness faded away and we focused on the new baby that would soon be coming to make our family ‘three’. I had such visions of how it was going to be. He arrived in April. We found a house soon after and made an offer to buy it. We were to move in July 1. It had a small spot perfect for a garden and we received permission to plant seeds while we awaited our possession date. We were excited for all it represented, anxious to begin this next step in our life together, but one week before we moved in, Dan got laid off at work. We never did move in, and since we had given notice in our rental, our plans were readjusted quickly. We moved the three of us and everything we owned into Dan’s mom’s basement while we figured out our next step.
Later that summer I learned an important lesson. One of those defining lessons that shapes the rest of your life. That wise man who said everyone should plant a garden, was a prophet (that wasn’t the lesson). His name was Spencer W. Kimball, and when he had said “plant a garden”, it felt like he was speaking directly to me, and I committed to do whatsoever he told me to do (that wasn’t the lesson either). “We encourage you to grow all the food that you feasibly can on your own property.” he said “Berry bushes, grapevines, fruit trees—plant them if your climate is right for their growth. Grow vegetables and eat them from your own yard.” he said “Even those residing in apartments … can generally grow a little food in pots and planters. Study the best methods of providing your own foods. Make your garden … neat and attractive as well as productive. If there are children in your home, involve them in the process with assigned responsibilities.” – Spencer W. Kimball, April GC 1976
He had a way of driving things home, and he spoke to my young heart. He reminded us of the scripture in Luke 6:46 “Why call ye me, Lord, Lord, and do not the things which I say?” He had me. And yet, as that summer ended we were back in another apartment, Dan going to school. Though we had tried to have a garden twice, there we were. Friends generously shared of their excess: cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and other produce, and I marveled at the bounty in my kitchen. I mused this blessing over with a friend one day, saying that I believed we enjoyed more produce this month than we ever could have harvested from our little garden. My wise friend Shirley said “It is because of your garden that you are being blessed this way.“ She pointed out the principle of obedience. That promise that when we obey a law, we receive the blessings associated with it. Plain and simple according to her. The prophet said “plant a garden” – we had. The circumstances surrounding the fact that we didn’t harvest it were incidental. The principle stood. She bore testimony to me in her straight forward way, that I could count on that principle for all the days of my life. “There is a law irrevocably decreed in heaven before the foundations of this world, upon which all blessings are predicated. And when we obtain any blessing from God, it is by obedience to that law upon which is is predicated.” (D&C 130:20,21) THAT WAS THE LESSON. I didn’t know it then, but my life changed that day. I had seen the fruit of the principle with my own two eyes. And yes, Shirley was right, I had planted a garden. Pitiful though it may have been, I had been obedient. I had tried my best to obey. That was all that mattered. God is in the details. He doesn’t ask us to feed five thousand. He asks merely that we bring our loaves and fishes to the picnic. Thank-you Shirley Clelland, for being such a wise friend and such a patient mentor.
I was no longer a girl. I was a mother. With the responsibility now to take care of my little one. And as a mother, there was one thing I knew I wanted – NEEDED. Yearned for. To obtain blessings from God. Which blessings? All of them. And I now knew how to access them. Obey the laws upon which they are predicated. “I the Lord, am bound when ye do what I say; but when ye do not what I say, ye have no promise.” (D&C 82:10) I could think of nothing I wanted more than to have the Lord bound to me, and I committed myself that day to do whatever it took to accomplish that.
There are many lessons I learned from my garden over the years, but they all began from that first one – which was that any good thing must start with a DESIRE to do that good thing. Hearts can change on a dime. I’ve seen it happen. But behaviour takes time. Don’t expect to BE everything in the beginning. Start with the desire to ‘be’. And work from there. Alma summed it up in his sermon to the Zoramites: “But behold, if ye will awake and arouse your faculties, even to an experiment upon my words, and exercise a particle of faith, yea, even if ye can no more than DESIRE to believe, let this desire work in you, even until ye believe in a manner that ye can give place for a portion of my words.” (Alma 32:27)
The next few blog posts will follow the theme of Lessons I learned from my Garden. I hope you’ll join me. I would love to hear your comments, and your own experiences about lessons learned ‘from’ or ‘in’ your own garden.
in this chapter: Horse Radish, Lamb’s Ears, Lamb’s Quarters, Lavender, Lovage. Some inside, some outside. Chapter continues to be a work in progress. I’d love to read your comments below.
HORSE RADISH
Horseradish is a rugged hardy perennial, even in cold climates. In fact, the winter forces the plant into dormancy, which like the rest of us, can be kind of a reprieve. During the growing season, it likes full sun but does fine in light shade. Since sun in my garden is in such demand, I don’t waste it on any plant that doesn’t demand it. If it can tolerate light shade, it gets light shade. Planting one to three horseradish plants should provide an abundant supply for even those of us who love it. You can only eat so much of it, but if you have a bigger garden, and are in love with it or want to share it, plant more. Whether you dig a root from your friend’s garden, or buy one from a greenhouse, they’re ready to go into the ground immediately.
Its interesting to note that the word “horseradish” has nothing to do with horses or radishes. The word “horse” formerly meant “coarse” or “rough”, and the word “radish” originally meant “root”, and yes, it is in fact in the radish family. The root is large, tapering to a point. It has a dark brown peel with a white inside.
The plant’s most commonly used part is the root, known for its strong, pungent flavour (and its heat) – that you either love or hate. There doesn’t seem to be much middle ground with horse radish. I didn’t develop a taste for it till well into my adult years but since then I am always on a quest for appropriate ‘carrier’ foods. But don’t discriminate against the leaves, as they are quite edible and very delicious when they are young. They have a sharp, bitter, and peppery taste — similar to arugula and kale and yes, even radish. Snip one or two fresh young leaves and chop up to add to a mixed green garden salad. I’m not suggesting a “horse radish leaf salad”, but to have some horse radish IN your mixed green salad is completely delicious. Try incorporating some of the young leaves into your next garden pesto. Or even add to the greens in your stir-fried vegetables. Be creative. Don’t be a garden bigot by not allowing certain ‘herbs’ or vegetables in your garden to show you how wonderful and versatile they really are.
Horseradish roots are large, tapering to a point, with a dark brown peel and a creamy white interior. They are well known for the ‘bite’, which comes from the release of compounds when the root is grated or chopped. Without grating and exposure to air, horseradish roots seem very innocent, but don’t be fooled, once you grate it you release its full potential, and it can become so hot you can feel it when you breathe. LOL – but not really funny. I’m serious – very HOT. *hint: vinegar stops the heat producing chemical process.
growing
When looking for the perfect spot to plant it, remember, its gonna be there for a long time. The hardiness of horseradish implies that once invited in and given a seat at the table, it is no longer a guest. It needs it’s own room. Set aside an area in the corner of your garden especially for it. It wants good drainage, not soggy feet. Dig a hole about a foot deep, and loosen the soil around it. Make sure the hole is wide enough to accommodate the entire length of the root. It should be planted at an angle. Allow 18-20 inches between plants, or away from its closest neighbour to allow the roots plenty of room to spread out and grow.
Place the horseradish crown or root into the hole diagonally (roughly a 45 degree angle), with the thinner, bottom portion of the root downward. This allows the roots to radiate out while keeping the leaves of the crown straight up. Always a good idea to add compost to the fill when planting perennials. Good idea to fertilize once in the spring when it starts to grow. Keep them weeded – which is only good manners when inviting a new plant into your garden. A healthy plant should have only 3 or 4 leaf stalks, so prune the others. Not pruning will encourage it to ‘go wild’ and it can quickly crowd out nearby plants, taking over a larger space than you want it to take.
A few years ago, I dug some horseradish roots from my son’s farm where it had gone wild, and transplanted two or three to my garden quite late in the season. They didn’t seem to ‘take’ so the next spring I was convinced I had lost them, so I purchased a plant from a local nursery. Within days of planting the new plant, I noticed the other horseradish plants were sprouting up where I had planted a year ago. Good things happen to those who wait, so be patient. I waited another full year after that before I tried to harvest any, and then just a little ’cause I was anxious to try it. It was the third year before I seriously dug up the plants to harvest.
harvesting
‘They’ (whoever they are) suggest we wait for at least two years, maybe even three years before harvesting. I decided to trust ‘them’; you might want to as well. Best time to harvest is mid-late fall. That’s always a joke in our climate. When does late become too late? At the very least, wait until you’ve experienced a good frost. The frost will kill off the green foliage and you’ll think you’ve lost it, but take heart, this is the sign it is ready to harvest.
With a shovel or a fork, gently loosen the soil around the roots and remove the whole plant. Try as you might, the likelihood of you getting the entire root out is very low. This is fine, you want the plant to grow back next year right? Expect the root to be between 6 to 10 inches in length so dig deep. Horseradish roots are large near the top, tapering to a point. You’ll usually hear the root break off as you’re digging it out. But if you’re worried that you didn’t leave enough, cut the bottom 3-4 inches and return it to the soil. For kitchen use, cut away the green leaf stalks, wash and dry thoroughly, then slice the horseradish into small, thin sections. These can stored in the fridge in a plastic bag for up to 3 or 4 months.
using your homegrown horseradish
Let me interrupt this part for a plug about the ‘leaves’. Re-read the opening paragraphs in this section – they are not only edible, but very delicious when they are young. Don’t miss out on those, while you wait for the root to mature. And be creative. Okay, I now return you to the ‘roots’.
Wash thoroughly. Easier said than done; when you try it, you’ll know what I mean. Peel roots with a regular kitchen peeler making sure you remove all the brown spots. Continue to rinse as you’re peeling so you don’t transfer the dirt. Dry well. Uncut horseradish roots will keep for several weeks in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Cut horseradish should be used right away. Grated fresh horseradish, preserved in vinegar, will keep for several months in the refrigerator. Peeled and grated horseradish can be stored in sealed bags or containers in the freezer for a few months.
You might want to grate it, you might want to puree in a blender. Up to you. Or maybe a little of both. If you’re grating, use the fine side of your hand grater, or use your food processor (I don’t have one). If you’re going to puree it, then you must first chop the root into small pieces before adding to the blender.
* hint: grated horseradish will tarnish silver upon contact. Don’t put it on a silver serving dish.
Fresh horse radish is super-duper-HOT. It even smells hot. Like clean-out-your-sinuses hot. Best to make sure you’ve got some air circulation while you’re shredding it. Horseradish’s bite comes from the release of compounds when the root is chopped or grated / exposed to air. Without grating and exposure to air, horseradish roots really don’t smell like much of anything. Vinegar stops this chemical process. If you want really hot horseradish sauce, leave the grated root exposed to the air for a few extra minutes, but not so long that it begins to discolour or dry out. For milder horseradish sauce, add vinegar right away. Horseradish will lose its powerful heat over time so don’t make a lot at once. Keep jars sealed in fridge. Best to consume an opened a jar within a couple of weeks at most. Every day after it opens it gets milder and milder, until pretty soon it disappointingly doesn’t taste like anything.
To grate or puree – that is the question. The answer is: whichever you prefer. Whatever you choose to do, make sure you have open windows, a fan blowing the air away from you, and be careful not to put your face directly above the rising vapors.
Grated: Grate finely. Measure out your grated horseradish into small bowl.
Pureed: Chop horseradish in pretty small chunks. Measure out 1 cup into blender and add 1/2 cup white vinegar, 1 T sugar and 1/4 t salt. Puree for a minute until horseradish sauce is desired consistency. Pour into 8 oz jar and put lid on. Tighten to seal.
Basic recipe measurement suggestions. May be multiplied for bigger batches.
Recipe 1 – without sugar: 1 cup grated or pureed horseradish if using the blender or food processor, add just enough water to make it easier to puree. Once completely grated or pureed, let sit in the air for a couple of minutes. Add 2 Tablespoons – 1/4 cup white vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon salt The vinegar is not there to add vinegar flavour. It is used for the chemical reaction it causes which stops the heat, so don’t add it too soon. The salt is there to enhance the natural pungent taste, so use according to your taste. Mix well KEEPING YOUR FACE FROM BEING DIRECTLY OVER TOP THE FUMES. Spoon into small jars and seal with air tight lid. Do not process in hot water canner, but you can freeze it.
Recipe 2 – with sugar: 1 cup grated or pureed horseradish (using same method as above) Add 1 Tablespoon of sugar 2 Tablespoon – 1/4 cup white vinegar 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Mix well. Spoon into small jars. Put the lid on and seal lid.
Recipe 3 1 cup horseradish peel and cut for the blender, or shredded. 1/3 cup white vinegar (can use apple cider vinegar, will be darker) 2 Tablespoons of sugar (do you want it more sweet or less? 1/4 teaspoon salt
Recipe 4 – Like it creamy? Take 1/2 cup prepared horseradish sauce and gently stir into 1/2 – 1 cup heavy cream beaten stiff.
* Cooking horseradish greatly diminishes the flavour and ‘heat’ of the root, so be sure to either eat uncooked, or add to recipe only when the heat has been turned off. Prepared horseradish will keep in the fridge for about six weeks, but you can store the wrapped root in your fridge for longer.
eating it
I am a huge fan of horseradish and wasabi, but my husband is not. Our kids are on either side of the fence. Nobody seems to be a fence sitter with such strong flavours.
– I like it straight from the jar for all beef dishes, even burgers.
recipe 5 for creamy sauce: to each 1/2 cup horse radish puree add 1/4 cup sour cream and/or mayonnaise, some chopped chives or green onion and some freshly ground pepper. Like it milder? Add 1/4 cup sweet cream (whipped after measuring).
recipe 6 for simple cocktail sauce: 1 cup ketchup + 2 T horseradish + 2 T lemon juice + 1 T sriracha hot sauce (or 2 T Franks hot sauce) + 2 tsp worcestershire sauce. Whisk together. That’s it. Serve with shrimp, or as a condiment for burgers, hot dogs, meatloaf, even on top of a ham & cheese omelet or in the mix for devilled eggs.
recipe for sandwich spread: add a little horseradish into mustard or mayonnaise for sandwiches.
Try putting just a little in your next cranberry sauce.
LAMBS EAR
Wooly Lamb’s Ear is an easy-care perennial with velvety soft, woolly evergreen leaves that are grey-green in color, similar in shape to that of a real lamb’s ears. That combination is perfectly described in the name. It generally grows 6-8 inches, and in bloom, spikes up to 12-18 inches, producing spikes of pink to purple colored flowers.
growing in the garden
In the early spring, Lamb’s Ear looks very similar to a Mullein plant. Same grey/green tones, fuzzy leaves. Tricky little things. But given time it will sort itself out and confess which one it is. As long as you provide suitable conditions, growing lamb’s ear in your garden is relatively simple. It is more hardy in zones 4-8, but I am in zone 3 (Edmonton) and it grows well in our backyard garden. It wants full sun, so try to be accommodating, although you might get away with partial shade. Since it originates in the Middle East, it dislikes overly moist soil, so if you have a notoriously dry spot, it would be a good resident. Because it is not totally comfortable in our zone, best to give it a protected spot if you can. Mine grows mostly in my front garden, but this year I intend to transplant one or two into my death valley area, a particular spot that is always dry. An area that seems to miss all the rain, and would never get any water if I didn’t see to it personally. Which much of the time I forget to do – hence, it is known as ‘death valley’. Only the heartiest plants can grow there. And the ants. They do splendid there, which is another part of its problem. Stupid ants.
Lamb’s Ear self seeds, but you can also collect the seed after flowering to start indoors next spring. In my zone, this is a good idea, as you can never be completely sure its gonna make it through a particularly cold winter.
using
Mostly I grow it because its a novel plant, fun for the kids to touch and enjoy. Low growing, it is perfect border plant with unique flowers. It’s ever green leaves make it a good plant to dry for wreathes.
The leaves can be used as a “band-aid” of sorts, for healing wounds and in helping painful bee stings. In fact that’s what it used to be known for: a ‘bandaid’ plant. For centuries it was used as a wound dressing, particularly valuable on the battlefield. Not only do the soft, fuzzy leaves absorb blood but evidently they have properties that help it to clot more quickly. They also possess antibacterial, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory properties. I haven’t ever used it for this purpose, but if you cut yourself badly one day while you’re at my house, in the summer – maybe we can give it a try.
LAMBS QUARTERS
(goose foot or pigweed) – relative of spinach and quinoa. Sometimes known as wild spinach, and considered a weed in most gardens, it deserves more credit than it usually gets. Highly nutritious, rich in V C and E, essential fatty acids, iron, calcium, minerals and antioxidants.
Most of these ‘weeds’ – meaning those plants that volunteer themselves in your garden without an official invitation, are most beneficial in the earlier part of the season before those that you plant deliberately are viable. Most of the weeds grow from self seeding, so they are up and established weeks before your regular garden. This means that you can start eating nutritious and delicious mixed garden greens (lambs quarters, chickweed, dandelion leaves, borage, plantain, etc) in your salad as early as April or May (in the Edmonton area) most years. By mid June, as your garden grows and develops. you should be eating garden more regular garden produce, so you’ll be depending on ones like lambs quarters less.
The underside of Lamb’s Quarters’ leaves and top of the new leaves are covered in a fine pink dust. Resist the temptation to wash it off as it is full of calcium and protein. It contains even more protein than kale. When lamb’s quarters is young, the entire above ground plant is edible. The stems and leaves can be eaten raw, steamed, or sautéed. Can be used any way and in any recipe that spinach is used, including a ‘spinach’ salad. When I am in my garden, I will often pick the tender new plants and eat them while I work. I never pull them to get rid of them. They’re much too valuable for that. I’ll add them to salads, add them to any other green that I steam.
Like spinach, beet greens, swiss chard and most other greens lambs quarters contains some oxalic acid which when eaten raw in large quantities can inhibit calcium absorption. These plants are so loaded with calcium however, that the amount of calcium not absorbed due to oxalic acid is minimized. Its a good idea to rotate your ‘greens’ for that reason anyway. Variety is a good thing. The black seeds are edible and very nutritious. Very good source of protein.
“Sticks and stones can break my bones, but names will never hurt me”. Just because something is called a weed, doesn’t mean we should discount it. The word is only a ‘term’ we use for a plant we haven’t yet found value in. Lambs Quarters is a protected ‘weed’ in my garden and has earned an honoured place in it.
LAVENDER
I don’t know what it is about Lavender that I love so much. Or more accurately I suppose, when my love affair with it began, or ‘from-whence-it-sprang‘. Even as an adolescent when I first discovered the unique and heady smell of lavender, I loved it. I use it in dried bouquets and arrangements. I use it in potpourri. I use it in the bath, and in cosmetics. I use the essential oil. I hope to never have to live without it. A close relative to Rosemary this bushy, strong scented plant is a native to the Mediterranean so don’t expect it to be super hardy in our winters. Having said that, you might be surprised by how often plants in your garden will survive our winters. Every year my lavender comes back is a good omen for me. I learned recently that the life expectancy of a lavender plant is about nine years. This is great information as I can now plan for that demise by encouraging new growth from the mother plant while she’s still young and vibrant.
growing
Best to buy your lavender plants from your local greenhouse or nursery, as they are not that easy to start from seed. But beware, not all lavenders are the same. You may find French Lavender, English Lavender and Spanish Lavender. I prefer English Lavender (pictured here) in every way. The classic lavender scent is English, which is more long lasting than the more mild French and Spanish. French or Spanish Lavenders are lovely and showy, so they’re perfect to have in a pot on a balcony or patio, but to plant in the ground with any expectation of longevity, English it is. English is easy to grow, and is hardier by far, more likely to survive the cold of an Alberta forecast.
In my area (Edmonton, Alberta), lavender may come back a few years in a row, and it may not. Some give up and admit defeat if it doesn’t survive a winter but that’s the coward’s way out, and there’s no glory in it. Every year I buy another four or five lavender plants. I plant them in various spots around my yard. One or two in my herb garden, another one in the back flower garden, another one in my front flower garden. Depends on where my empty spots are. I’ve had lavender come back in a certain spot eight years, and after the ninth winter – it did not. I mourned that one. I really thought I had it licked. Since then I’ve learned that lavender has a life expectancy and it wouldn’t have grown much longer than that anyway. I didn’t do anything wrong. That information is encouraging, and armed with it, I can move forward with more confidence. I’ve had lavender plants come back several years in a row, and some that have not made it through a single winter. Not every spot is ideal, and there’s no beating experimentation while looking for the best one. I plant them in all different locations because I keep hoping to discover the perfect lavender loving spot in my yard. . . . . . still looking. Truth is, Edmonton is not lavender’s ideal climate or soil type, but that doesn’t mean it cannot thrive. You just have to be creative.
Lavender wants SUN. So I give it sun. Sunniest spots I have. Anything it wants that I have the power to provide. Because of its Mediterranean origin, it wants blazing hot sun, but I am not in control of everything – sigh. It will handle drought and heat, but not wet soil or poor drainage. It actually prefers poor soil, which is one of my problems as I have very rich loamy soil (which I try hard to make that way). One of life’s little ironies I guess.
Lavender’s purple flowers attract bees and other pollinators so its a valuable asset to any garden. Plant in the spring but after all danger of frost is past, in the driest part of your garden with good drainage. Because lavender loves dry (even sandy, and slightly alkaline) soil with good drainage, there are a few things we can do to help. If it doesn’t do well, it’s likely due to a wet season, not enough sun and high humidity. Plant your lavender in a raised mound, mixing in a little sand to increase its drainage, and make it less likely to sit in wet soil after a rain. Give it room to expand – about two feet, and think positive thoughts. Not much we can do to keep the rain away in a wet season, but don’t add to it. Avoid the sprinkler. Remember, you’re going for ‘dry’.
harvesting
In the morning, when the oils are most concentrated, clip the base of the flower stalk when approximately half of the flower buds have opened. Cut them as long as possible so that you can put them into bundles. I use an elastic band to secure them, but you can also tie them with string. If I have just a few, I dry them standing up in a dry vase. If I have more, I hang them upside down in an area with good air circulation. Flowers will keep their perfume for months, even years sometimes if in a sealed container. When thoroughly dried, gently rub each stem to remove the flowers.
using
– All parts of a lavender plant are edible, but it has never appealed to me. Kinda like eating soap in my opinion. Store the dried flowers in an airtight jar out of direct sunlight to preserve the perfume as long as possible. – Sprinkle them into bath water, – Tie a handfull into a lavender sachet for a drawer, closet or suitcase. – What a lovely gift idea. Slightly squeeze the dried flowers in the sachet to reawaken the scent. – Lavender oil can take the sting out of bee stings. It is good for minor burns, and reducing inflammation. Use as a wound wash to help prevent infection. – The scent of lavender is said to relieve stress and depression, and promotes relaxation.
LOVAGE – super hardy, self seeds, can be transplanted
Native to the Mediterranean and popular in Europe and Southeast Asia, lovage is quite unique in that it’s hardy in zones all the way from 3 to 9. That’s pretty much Edmonton to Athens! You don’t see that very often! Because it grows so tall, and bushes out in brilliant greenery, lovage makes a beautiful backdrop to any flower, herb or vegetable garden, and is an excellent pollinator plant. It has earned a permanent spot in my herb garden because of its hardiness, usefulness and loveliness.
growing
Related to parsley, but growing like a bush, lovage has a strong taste resembling a parsley/celery combination. It is perennial – coming back from the root, and also self seeds so you’re never gonna run out of it. Will grow to about 8 feet tall in my garden. It likes sun but will tolerate partial shade. That means it gets partial shade. Full sun in my garden is too precious to waste on any plant who doesn’t require it. Give it plenty of room to be what it wants to be. It likes to be moist (probably because it grows so fast), but I don’t water anymore often than I feel the need to water my lawn.
It goes to flower mid summer and will self seed easily, so you may get lots of volunteers next year. Luckily its easy to pull out when its young, or dig out to transplant. All your friends can have grandbabies of your lovage plants. If you’re just starting out with lovage, probably best to get a transplant from someone. Apparently, germination of the seeds isn’t reliable and usually has about a 50% viability, so if you’re starting with seeds, plant more than you want. Definitely, spring transplants have better success than fall ones, although I have given plants to friends all throughout the growing season. Clearly, the more time they have to establish themselves the better.
harvesting and using
mortar and pestle
You can use the seeds, leaves, stalks and even the roots.
Seeds: They flower mid summer, and then go to seed, so expect to start harvesting them toward the end of summer. Make sure they’re dry before you pack them into an airtight jar, and then use throughout the year till next summer’s seed is ready. Sprinkle over salads and mashed potatoes, breads, pastries, biscuits, and cheeses. I find it helpful to slightly crush them in a mortar and pestle to release their flavour before sprinkling over your dish. Strongly aromatic.
Stocks: Stocks are tough and need to be blanched. I personally have never used them, except to simmer in a stock and then discard – they’re too tough for me, but the flavour is intense.
Leaves: The leaves look like very large Italian parsley leaves, and they taste like celery, only much stronger. In the summer, I pick them a little here and there as I use them. Chop coarsely to add to a mix of salad greens. Chop finely and use in place of parsley in chicken salad or tuna salad, or even in a batch of fresh tomato salsa. Use in marinades, soups, creamy dips, chili and potato salad, as well as stocks and casseroles. They’re VERY flavourFUL, so use sparingly at first till you get used to how strong they are. Flavour to taste.
For winter use, I pick the leaves anytime in late summer. I dry them, then powder them in the blender and mix with a nice salt to make “celery salt”, which I use throughout the year in all sorts of dishes that I want to add a parsley / celery taste to. Or for a nicer look, hand crumble the dried lovage leaves, and mix with a coarse Himalayan salt. Keep in a short jar to spoon out for use in cooking.
in this chapter: Dandelion, Dill, Echinacea, Fennel, and Feverfew Some inside, some outside. Chapter continues to be a work in progress. I’d love to read your comments below.
DANDELION
– highly nutritious, containing vitamins C and B6, thiamin, riboflavin, calcium, iron, potassium and manganese. Acts as a mild laxative that promotes digestion, stimulates appetite and balances the natural and beneficial bacteria in the intestines.
For the last two years, I have a set aside a special place in my garden called “the Protected Zone”. In it, I plant ‘weeds’. A weed refuge camp, where they are supposed to be safe. I’ve had differences of opinion from time to time with the people who matter most to me about ‘weeds’. I maintain that a weed is only a label for a plant that someone doesn’t find value in, that is growing in a place you don’t want it to grow. Call it whatever you want, but don’t be so narrow minded as to believe that the name means there is no value. Years ago I decided to let poppies, dill, lambs quarters and even chickweed grow in my garden. Because I found a use for them. I don’t let them grow everywhere. I am aware of the aesthetics of my garden, but there are places where they don’t harm others and where they can serve a useful purpose. Dandelions however, can be pretty bossy. They flower and seed and can take over easily so I don’t allow them free reign. But they have something to offer, so at long last – I’ve come up with a solution. A protected zone. Where they are free to grow and BE, so that I can partake of what they want to give me. They have like-minded neighbours that I’ll talk about later.
my daughter created this sign for me to help me protect the weeds in my “protected zone”
People with less vision try to help me out from time to time. They assume that I have missed this dandelion, or that plantain or heaven forbid, I did not know that chamomile was a ‘weed’, . . . . . and so they do me a favour and pull it out. I appreciate good intentions. Really I do! But I have tried to emphasize “That is my protected zone. Don’t touch anything that is in it” more times than I can number.
Why do dandelions have a protected spot in my garden? Because from top to bottom, the dandelion is a highly nutritious plant, loaded with vitamins and minerals.
The name Dandelion comes from the French term dente de lion, meaning lion’s tooth, and referring to the jagged leaves. A common plant native to Europe, it grows wild almost everywhere in the world, and like so many others immigrated to North America inadvertently with European settlers centuries ago. Don’t get lost in its reputation as a weed, it has remarkable nutritional value. The leaves contain almost as much iron as spinach, and four times more Vitamin A. It contains calcium, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, sodium, Vitamin A and C, and is a power house of antioxidants.
The leaves are a little bitter for me, but their nutritional superiority is hard to ignore. When my kids were little, I would often gather some (from my own yard where I knew they were safe) to add to a summer salad of mixed greens. I made the mistake of doing that once in front of my twelve year old brother-in-law. He did not like the idea, and told on me. “Cindy made me eat ‘leaves’.” (I was glad he didn’t say weeds. His mother was a very plain cook and had a problem accepting me in the beginning as it was.) asked him recently (he’s now 50 and a little more adventurous in his eating) “Do you remember having a problem with that sorta thing at my house?” YES! He sure does remember! LOL. I wanted to ask if he felt bad about the criticism I took, but I didn’t want to push my luck.
There are many health benefits in addition to nutrition that are attributed to dandelions. Because of its high amounts of specific vitamins and minerals, dandelion is used for jaundice and other liver disorders, urinary disorders and anemia, as well as inflammation, blood sugar regulation, reducing cholesterol, and lowering blood pressure. Research indicates that dandelion may also have antimicrobial and antiviral properties, which supports your body’s ability to fight infection, making it an immune enhancing herb.
growing
Hahaha – I’m sure no one needs any help figuring out how to grow dandelions, but be sure that any you use are free from sprays intended to kill them. I would never pick a dandelion that didn’t come from my own yard, and sometimes not even then. Hence, the protected zone.
harvesting and using
*Leaves: are more tender and less bitter in the early spring. Simply snip the leaves from your protected plants, as you would any other garden green. Wash in warm water, and dry as you would leaf lettuce. Cut them up to add into a salad to distribute among the other greens. Studies indicate that bitter flavours are great for digestion and curbing sugar cravings. Eating more dandelion can be as simple as sprinkling a handful of chopped leaves into your next salad. Or use them in sandwiches like you would leaf lettuce.
The leaves can be sautéed in oil and added to casseroles or soups, or other dish of greens. Many people like the “earthy, nutty, pleasingly bitter flavour”, that has been compared to the taste of endive.
*Flowers: can be picked when they are nice and young. Remove all green from the underside, not because it’s bad for you, but because it doesn’t taste good. Toss into your salad whole. Some people batter the blossoms and deep fry them like a fritter.
Or make a dandelion iced tea. NOT kidding! It is quite delicious and refreshing. Pick lots of dandelion flower heads, wash them by gently swishing in cool water. You’ll be surprised how much dirt will settle in your water when you thought they were clean. Put them in a clean pot and pour boiling water over to cover and a few more inches. Let them steep for an hour or two till completely cooled. You can drink anywhere along the line, the only difference is gonna be whether its hot or cold, and the strength of the infusion of course. I’ve drunk it hot, room temperature and cold from the fridge. I like it all ways, but probably chilled is my favourite. Surprisingly it does not need any sweetener. I think it would be good with lemon, but I’ve never felt the need to add any.
*Roots: are good throughout the growing season. Some say they’re better in early spring, but I can’t say that I’ve noticed a difference. When digging, make sure you dig deep down to get as much of the root as possible. Cut them off the plant and soak them in water to loosen the dirt. Brush and rub together to clean, changing water as needed.
To make a coffee-like hot drink (decoction): chop into small pieces no more than 1/2 an inch. Heat your oven to 375° F, and place roots on a dry pan to toast for 20-30 minutes (depending on how many you have in the pan). I know it seems like a high temperature, but its okay – you can trust me, just don’t walk away and leave them alone. (If you’re worried about the temperature, reduce your heat to 350 degreesand expect to add a few more minutes.) Check every five minutes or so, and toss them around when they begin to toast keeping the toasting even. The pieces should smoke a little and give off a light chocolaty, earthy aroma while cooking. When most of them look like ‘chocolate’ pieces, and snap apart easily they are done. Allow them to cool, and then store them in an airtight jar out of sunlight.
to prepare your ‘coffee’
Use the toasted dandelion pieces as is (2 Tablespoons for 2 cups of water), bring the water to a boil and lightly brew/simmer for 10-15 minutes. Your water will reduce by about half so you’ll end up with one cup. – OR – Throw your toasted root bits into the blender and blend to a coarse crumble – (like cocoa nibs). To prepare your drink, pour boiling water over top of the nibs (1 Tablespoon to 1 cup of HOT water) and steep as you would a loose leaf herbal tea. Let it sit five minutes or longer, and test for strength and adjust your amounts according to taste. Strain, and enjoy.
For variety, consider adding a cinnamon stick or some cardamom seeds to your cup from time to time. A nice warming hot drink for a cold winter evening.
Dandelion root is often dried and consumed as a coffee substitute, but I’m told it can also be eaten in its whole form. I have never tried to eat it this way, that might be for another year. I’m just happy with what I’ve got now.
DILL
– hardy garden herb. Self seeds, but best to sow new seed every year if you want a nice dependable crop.
growing
I lightly broadcast seed once my garden beds are ready to plant. If you have a bigger garden and can spare the room, grow dill in its own bed close together so that the stalks support each other. I don’t have room to grow a bed of dill, so I broadcast it among other plants in my vegetable and even flower beds. As it will grow about 3 feet tall, I like it interspersed with low plants like cucumbers. This also assists the plant with stability when the wind blows. It loves sun, and is a happy plant that is synonymous with ‘summer’ in my eyes. Especially when its green. For a continual harvest, sow repeatedly from early spring to early summer.
harvesting and using
Once it starts to go to seed, it means the summer is over so I do everything I can to delay its seeding. I pick as much of the green ferny leaves as I can throughout the growing season, trying to delay the inevitable, and using them almost daily in my meals.
I use most of my dill when it is green: the dill weed. I clip as much of the green leaves as I can find, coarsely chop on a board to add it to dishes at the last minute, preserving its wonderful but delicate flavour. What I don’t use immediately, I freeze in a container to use all winter long simply by scraping out of the container with a fork and returning the remainder to the freezer. Make the most of it with all summer produce like cucumbers, zucchini and tomatoes, and in spreads, dips and sauces. It is classic with fish, eggs and potatoes. One of my favourite summer recipes is fresh garden potatoes boiled with a creamy dill sauce poured over top. Adding to potato salad makes all the difference, and put lots in a creamy cucumber salad dressing.
recipe below
recipe: Buttermilk Dill Dressing in blender, put aprox 2 cups fresh dill weed and 1/2 cup buttermilk. Puree. Add 1/2 cup of chopped chives, garlic chives, green onion, or chopped onion. Your choice. Puree again. Add 1/3 cup mayonnaise, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon sugar. Puree again. That’s it! Ready to pour over your fresh garden salad. If you would a thicker creamier dressing, separate 1/2 cup dressing and stir in some plain yogurt or sour cream to it. To your desired consistency. If you would like to make a vegetable dip: 4 oz cream cheese, softened. Beat with hand mixer till fluffy. Add dressing, a tablespoon at a time, beating between each addition. Continue until you are happy with the consistency and flavour. You might even want to add a little more chopped dill, for texture to your dip.
Although I do everything I can do to prevent my dill from going to seed, its gonna happen eventually. The seed is very valuable in the kitchen too. Use crushed or whole to flavour soups, sauces, breads and salad dressings. Steep the seeds in hot water to make a ‘tea’.
Even the stem can be used and is delicious. When small and tender, chop it up right along with the leaves. When the plant is older and the stems are older, use them to flavour soup stock just like you’d use a bay leaf. Add them to the cooking water of boiled potatoes. The flowers too are edible and look beautiful in summer arrangements on my kitchen table.
Medicinal Benefits: Seeds are steeped into a ‘tea’ to treat flatulence, digestive disorders and stomach pain. For all these attributes it is often used to soothe colicky babies. Or a little essential oil in water would do the same thing. Dill seeds act as breath-fresheners.
ECHINACEA (cone flower)
Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower) is a perennial flowering plant native to North America (east of the Rocky Mountains), and a very popular home garden choice. It has a large center cone, surrounded by colourful petals and it brightens up the garden in mid-summer. While considered a perennial, a healthy echinacea plant can be expected to grow from 3 – 5 years in your garden. So if you thought you had a good thing going and one spring your echinacea didn’t come back, stop taking it so personally. If planted by seed, it may reseed itself to continue its presence in your garden, but depending on so many different factors it is impossible to count on it.
Echinacea was used medicinally by the native people of North America, and adopted by settlers. It became popular for household use up until the mid 1900’s when antibiotics became the miracle drug of the 20th century, but in the last few decades it is regaining its former rockstar status, and is now commonly purchased over-the-counter as an herbal remedy.
Studies have linked echinacea to reduced inflammation. It seems to activate chemicals in the body responsible for decreasing inflammation, and is purported to have immune enhancing properties. These attributes make it a popular herb when treating upper respiratory ailments and the flu. All parts: flower, leaves and roots are believed to stimulate the body’s immune system, and are used in tablets, tinctures, extracts and teas. I’ll tell you right now, it tastes awful, so keep that in mind. I’ve never been able to disguise its yucky taste, so be prepared to buck up and get it over with. My kids used to call it “yuck-i-necea”.
growing:
I have only ever purchased my plants from a garden center, but they are kind of a pricey plant and I’ve had the disappointment several times when they didn’t come back in the spring. Evidently one can take cuttings from happy plants, as Echinacea responds well to root divisions, so I think I’ll be trying that this summer (2020). Also, I have never done it but I understand that Echinacea Purpurea (the desirable choice for medicinal properties), grows readily from seed, so I’ll be looking for seeds from my plants at the end of this growing season to start indoors next spring. The seeds are supposed to germinate in ten to twenty days, so for me, in zone 3 that means it is better to sow indoors in containers and then transplant outside later. This also avoids competition from weeds until the plants are strong and growing well.
I have my Echinacea Purpurea in well drained soil that gets a good amount of sun. Once they were established they do well with a normal amount of watering – this year the rain sufficed. Remember, they’re indigenous so they can tough out most natural drought conditions, but they’re not a cactus or a succulent so they’re gonna do better when you give them water. To give them every chance for success, keep the weeds from competing for sun and moisture. I have them in my herb garden around some pretty aggressive plants like St John’s Wort, Borage and Feverfew. I have to go in and referee once in awhile to keep the bullies down.
Leave the plants standing through winter to feed the birds, and trim back in the spring to encourage bushier plants that bloom longer into the season. Coneflowers are prolific bloomers that will keep blooming the whole summer. Each flower remains vibrant for several weeks. Deadheading in the key, and is the primary maintenance. Keeping the plants deadheaded will ensure you keep getting more flowers.
You can use the petal, leaves and roots, but it is generally believed that the roots contain the most active compounds.
harvesting:
roots: Best to harvest in the fall, after the flowers have gone to seed and after a couple of frosts. Cut only a portion of the root so that the plant will come back in the spring. Wash the root thoroughly and then cut it into small pieces about half-inch, lay loosely on a clean tea towel in a well ventilated area and out of direct sunlight. It could take a week or more for the pieces to dry so don’t rush it. If you have a dehydrator, you’ll shorten the time. When you are certain they are completely dry, store them in an airtight glass container out of the light.
flowers and leaves: Best to harvest when they are fresh and new, right after the flowers begin to bloom. Cut each stem just above the first set of leaves. Rinse to ensure they’re free of dust and hang upside down to dry or lay them flat on a clean tea towel or screen. If hanging, tie a paper bag around the flower, as the petals will drop. When the leaves and petals are completely dry, store them in a sealed glass jar. As always, keep the jar out of the light.
using:
An infusion (herbal tea) is the best way to use the leaves and flower petals. To infuse means to steep in liquid, usually hot or warm. It is a gentle preparation usually used to extract flavour, and is what we commonly refer to as ‘tea’ when not using true “tea leaves”. An ‘herbal tea’ is always an INFUSION. Keeping it covered during the steeping, ensures the aroma doesn’t escape in the air. It can be served hot, or cooled and served chilled. For echinacea, use about a tablespoon of dried leaves and flowers to each cup of water. Steep for 15-20 minutes, strain and serve.
A decoction (coffee is more of a decoction) is prepared a little more aggressively, and is generally used for roots. It is a longer process and requires continued heat, keeping the water gently boiling. It involves the extraction of substances that an infusion cannot accomplish. For echinacea decoction, use 2 Tablespoons of dried root in 3 cups of water. Simmer for 20-30 minutes, strain and serve.
. . . . more to come
FENNEL
I’ll be honest. Fennel as an herb is relatively new to me. I’ve used fennel seeds in spaghetti sauce for years (my sister-in-law Pat shared her secret with me when we were both young married), but my son Zack recently taught me that toasting them in a hot skillet for a few minutes brings their flavour to a whole new level. I hope I am never tempted to skip this step in the future. Fennel seed has a unique herbal flavor, reminiscent to anise. Licorice-like but don’t let that turn you away if you’re not a licorice fan.
Toasting fennel seeds give off a wonderful aroma that is hard to describe – it is so wonderful. Fennel extraordinaire. Toasted, there is a nuttiness added to the flavour that they didn’t before. Zack spoke so highly about the whole “experience” that I went out and bought some seeds that very week to try it. Go ahead and do the same thing.
Fennel has a rich history. It is indigenous to the Mediterranean region where it was used anciently. Gradually it migrated east and north where it became popular in Northern Europe and the Far East. It is a main ingredient of the famous Chinese Five Spice mixture. It is used in toothpastes and as a breath freshener in India. (that does not appeal to me) It is a member of the carrot family, and closer to parsley than it is to its very close-look-alike ‘dill’. Every part of the plant is edible and is used in very different ways.
One of my culinary and garden experiments this year (2020) is fennel. I planted only one fennel plant, but you can bet next year I will be planting a whole row next year. I’ve been using the ferny fennel fronds chopped in salads for a long time and I am looking forward to harvesting the bulb as a vegetable. This means I won’t be able to let it go to seed for harvest later, but I know I’ve got enough purchased seed on hand for now. I’ll plan to harvest seed next year.
growing:
Fennel is a poor companion in the vegetable garden and it will cross pollinate with dill so I try to keep them separate. As I broadcast dill freely, keeping them separate is a bit of a challenge. Since I am interested in fennel seed AND the bulb, and I cannot get the seed if I harvest the bulb before it seeds, it seems to me that planting it as a vegetable should be safe in my vegetable garden. Some gardeners say they grow fennel in raised beds close to vegetables as it encourages helpful predatory insects to the garden. Letting one or two of those plants go to seed so that I can harvest the seed should be sufficient for my needs. I have read as many pros to growing fennel with vegetables as I have read cautions, so I guess I’m just gonna have to learn from my own experience.
There is one rules that I will follow: 1. Dill and fennel are kissing cousins. As they are closely related, dill and fennel should not be planted near each other because they cross pollinate, and mixing will yield a very disappointing result with a bitter taste and lack of vibrancy to both.
*mature dill will stunt growth of carrots
using:
Leaves: The feathery green leaves of fennel at first glance look like DILL, but once you see them in the garden together you’ll see that fennel is a lot more compact, and doesn’t go to seed as readily. (don’t use the word ‘together’ too literally, dill and fennel are NOT good garden companions. See above.) Clip the greenery throughout the season as needed and chop coarsely to add to salads, and other cold dishes. You can also make a lovely herbal tea with the leaves. While dill leaves lose their wonderful taste with drying, not so with fennel. So drying the leaves for winter teas is a good option.
Bulb: I am told that you can sneak off a few outer layers of the bulb mid season without harvesting the whole plant, so you can continue to benefit from the greenery. But generally, like any root crop (although the bulb grows above ground), once you harvest the bulb – the plant is done. Thinly slice the root bulb to use as a vegetable, fresh in salads or to lightly saute in stir fries, or to cook in other dishes.
Seeds: Toasting the seeds brings out (and magnifies) their natural scent and flavour. Gently grind them in a mortar and pestle to release the oil (and therefore flavour). Add them in everything to everything Italian. Add them with curry powder, or where you would normally use curry powder. Add them in or on your homemade bread.
How to toast fennel seeds? You can store them in a tightly sealed jar, but I only toast what I am going to use right away. It only takes 5 minutes and it doesn’t dirty any dishes so its quick and easy.
Heat an ungreased skillet over high heat. Once its warm, place your fennel seeds on the surface and either use a wooden spoon to stir or shake the pan to keep seeds moving so they don’t burn. Some may even ‘pop’ a little. Don’t walk away, it will only take three or four minutes. When they’ve become a nice toasty colour and are starting to become noticeably fragrant, remove from heat. Pour onto clean plate to cool. Best to remove the seeds from your skillet to prevent scorching.
as an herb Fennel is most known for helping with digestion, probably more specifically in dealing with INdigestion, and related problems like heartburn, bloating, and colic in infants.
If you are prone to these digestive ailments, you might want to add more fennel to your diet to head them off before they occur. Having cold fennel water in the fridge to sip during the day will not only give you the benefit of fennel, but also the great benefit of adding more water to your diet – which will help immensely.
Bring 3-4 cups water to a boil, add 2 Tablespoons of fennel seed, reduce heat and simmer 10-15 minutes. Drink as a hot tea, or cool and sip as a cold drink throughout the day. Giving a colicky infant a tablespoon or two of fennel water will help ease stomach upset and gas. Alternatively, try steeping fennel seeds in water for a couple hours. This will give a pleasant flavour to the water and will be a refreshing drink throughout the day. Chewing fennel seeds is also supposed to help, and many people recommend it, but this doesn’t appeal to me. I guess its all about what will work for you. Incorporate fennel into your diet in any way you can.
FEVERFEW
– Good for arthritis, fever, headaches, migraine headaches, and menstrual cramps.
My mother-in-law introduced me to Feverfew. (Not Geoff’s mom. I was lucky enough to have two mothers in law.) She was the first person I knew who grew it in her garden. She ate one leaf a day all summer long to prevent migraine headaches which she was predisposed to suffer from. She swore by it. For a couple of years, I worked in a health food store and came to know feverfew as an herbal supplement. It had good science behind it, and customers continually gave me good reviews when I asked about it. I have never had a migraine, but I have two sisters who suffered from them, and a son, so I decided to add it to my herb garden. I got my first starter plant from my mother-in-law’s garden, and its held an honoured spot there for almost three decades.
growing
Feverfew is a cheerful, ferny plant with lots of pretty small white daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. It is adaptable and low maintenance. It loves full sun and well drained soil, but is agreeable to partial shade. When the flowers are mature / ripe, their yellow centers will begin to dry and brown into seeds. I usually take two or three of these seed heads and sprinkle them among my entire garden. That will give me hundreds of volunteer pop-up plants for next summer. They are a biennial which means they flower and go to seed in their second year. They don’t come back the next spring, but lots of little feverfew babies do. Like Charlotte in E.B. White’s classic children’s tale CHARLOTTE’S WEB.
In its second year, in a favourable spot it can grow to up to 20 inches. A nice bushy, ferny plant. Feverfew is easy to remove where you don’t want it, and its easy to transplant too. Its just an easy going friend, who doesn’t take offense. I allow it to grow profusely in my herb garden, flower gardens and even a few in my vegetable garden. Just because we’re friends, and we get along well.
Feverfew is such a pretty plant, it brings me joy. The taste however, . . . it may have medicinal qualities, but it would never make it in the kitchen. That’s okay. You can’t be every thing to everybody. The taste is strong and bitter to me. My mother-in-law said she’d have to put it in a mouthful of something else to eat it. And that is exactly what I would have to do. Be creative. You only have to eat one leaf.
Feverfew is NOT a pain reliever, so don’t take it when you’re in the middle of a migraine. It is a preventative. I have never suffered from a migraine, and rarely get bad headaches, but those who take one pill a day, or one leaf a day as prevention, swear by it. It is effective in decreasing frequency and severity, and many people I have spoken to about it, say that their headaches are significantly fewer and more manageable. It is also used to relieve chronic premenstrual cramping.
harvesting
So easy and straight forward. Best to clip from a second year plant when its in flower. If you are using feverfew fresh, it’s best to cut it as you need it. Just remove and leaf and chew it. Good luck. It taste terrible. Try doing what my mother-in-law suggested. Put it in your mouth with something better and get it over with quickly.
feverfew herb in the garden
For winter storage, cut only 1/3 of the plant to let it rejuvenate for a second same-season harvest. Cut the stems, leaving about 4 inches. Swish the stems in cool water to wash and flick off excess water. Lay the leaves flat out on a screen or clean tea towel to dry, tossing a couple of times a day till completely dry. Or if you prefer, tie feverfew branches in a bundle and allow to dry hanging upside down in a dark, ventilated and dry area. You can also dry feverfew in a slow oven at 140 degrees F. ) or a dehydrator. Just keep an eye on it, because it won’t take as long as you might think.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on these herbs and your experience or recipes for them. Watch for sequel posts on other herbs in the garden or in the house.
in this chapter: Aloe Vera, Basil, Borage, Calendula, Carrot tops, Chamomile, Wild Chamomile (Pinapple weed), Chickweed, Chives, Cinnamon, Cloves, Comfrey, Cornsilk, Cranberry (Highbush). Some inside, some outside. Chapter continues to be a work in progress. I’d love to read your comments below.
ALOE VERA
For all my parenting years I’ve had an aloe vera standing close by for those owies that happen daily. From the minor burns and scrapes of childhood, to the bigger wounds that need stitches and painful sunburns, it has never let me down. We’ve been partners through it all.
Easy to grow indoors in direct sun, it doesn’t need much water (especially in the winter time), and if you’re going to kill an aloe vera, its probably going to be from over watering. When the sun gets higher and warmer though, starting mid March, you’ll be surprised – it will start asking for more water. Readily available to buy from many nurseries, but once you’ve got a good healthy plant started, it will have babies and you’ll soon be giving them to your friends.
Highly beneficial for healing skin burns and wounds. Many use it for healing wound INSIDE too, like stomach ulcers. In its natural form, it tastes yucky, however, aloe vera gel contains many vitamins and an array of essential minerals. It also contains 20 amino acids, including 7 out of the essential 8. There is some question about side effects when used internally though. The aloe plant’s gel, which is in the largest, innermost layer of each leaf, is considered safe and the beneficial part of the plant to consume, while its skin and the yellow layer directly under it, called latex, is considered unsafe. There are many studies that suggest it is unsafe for pregnant and nursing moms as well as young children, as well as studies that indicate the juice – which used to be crazy popular for stomach ulcers, has been linked to kidney problems and liver injury. So its kind of an enigma to me. For now, I choose to avoid eating or drinking it, at least until more evidence compels me to take another look.
To use it externally, simply cut off a portion of a nice full leaf, slice open and gently rub the gelatinous inside on the wound. The plant will soon heal itself, and you can cut from the same leaf another time. We’ve used aloe in our home for years, for household burns to sunburns, from scrapes to serious cuts, from bites to blisters, and a gentle facial astringent.
using:
* My four year old son attempted to remove a loaf of bread from the over with pot holders. They slipped, he touched the pan with his bare hand. Ouch. Ice-cold water, tylenol and cuddles for the rest of the day and a fitful night. Throughout that time when the pain would subside a little, I would slather aloe vera on the burn, and leave it to dry until the pain made us put his hand back into the cold water. By the next morning, no pain, no blister, not even any reddening on the skin. Aloe vera for the WIN. Our first serious experience. * My husband took a hockey puck to the face. It hit him on the bridge of his nose, broke his glasses, and peeled a large piece of his skin away. Also gave him a big headache. He should have had stitches, but his headache won for the moment and he laid down with some tylenol. I laid an open piece of aloe vera gently over the bridge of his nose on this wound. By the time he woke up from a short nap, the wound had fused enough that stitches were of no value. If we had to do it over again we would have gotten the stitches first before we used the aloe vera, to prevent an unsightly. Who knew it would heal so quickly? The downside was a scar that wasn’t necessary. The upside was a lesson well learned, and scars fade. * Sunburns soothed by rubbing the gel over the ouchy parts. * Minor cuts and burns that are part of raising children and running households, all made easier. * I often use the soothing gel of aloe vera to rub over my face in the morning and at bedtime. All the nutrition can be absorbed through the skin and it feels great. The perfect home skin treatment.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND having an aloe plant in every home for its first aid and skin benefits. I use it for facial moisturizer, and definitely for cuts, scrapes, burns (including sun burns), bites and any other skin issue.
BASIL – culinary
Would summer really be summer without the wonderful sweet and spicy tang of fresh of basil? Its a redundant question because I hope I never have to find out. There are many different kinds and flavours of basil but my favourite and my default is still the basic common ‘sweet basil’.
growing
Basil is a tender annual that is kind of persnickety about a lot of things. It wants full sun, no negotiating on this. And it wants it HOT. It wants plenty of water but doesn’t like to be wet. See? I am not normally that patient with something this picky, not with people and not with plants. But basil has me wrapped around its tender branches. It isn’t possible to have too much basil in my opinion. That’s what pesto is for.
It doesn’t like to be transplanted so be gentle. Very gentle. I find that when its in my garden, it doesn’t do as well, so I keep it closer to me on the patio in a pot, so I can talk to it and make sure it gets enough to drink. It absolutely cannot tolerate a frost or even a chill, so don’t even think about taking it outside till all that is in the distant past. And it being in a pot makes it easy to bring inside on iffy late summer or early fall nights.
Its easy to start by seed. You can plant some indoors about 6 weeks before transitioning outside. I’ve even had good luck planting seeds straight into my planter outside in the middle of May. They germinate in a week or less and are quick to grow when they get sufficient sun. Because they are so persnickety about being transplanted, sometimes I just plant by seed right into the pot outside. If I do transplant, I take the whole mass and gently place them together.
a sprinkling of seed in a pot is easy to grow
Basil is a valuable companion in any garden. Planted nearby, basil helps tomatoes with both insects and disease, and improves growth and flavour. Staking your tomatoes and pruning the lower leaves frees up space to plant basil, chives, nasturtiums and other helpful ‘tomato fans’ in the front row.
harvesting and using
Start picking leaves when the plant gets about 6 inches tall. Th biggest ones of course. To keep the plant bushy, pinch off the top flower wannabees every week or so. (eat them right then and there.) Your plant will respond by producing more leaves and becoming fuller. Like most herbs, its best to pick in the morning before the heat of the day when the leaves are at their juiciest. Use basil FRESH for everything wonderful all summer long. Chop coarsely, snip with scissors or leave whole leaf. Use in salads, sandwiches, soups, sauces, bruschetta, on pizza, …. you name it. Even if you don’t need any, pinch off the top leaves anyway, to keep the plants bushy. If you have some you can’t use right away, dehydrate it, or make fresh pesto.
Pesto: using basil, garlic and parsley
oh. my. goodness. Pesto. Pesto on pasta, pesto in soup, pesto on meat, pesto on scrambled eggs or omelette, pesto on pizza, pesto with mayo on a sandwich, pesto in salad dressing …. everything is better with pesto on it. I wait all year long for the basil to be ready and plentiful enough to make pesto. Then I freeze leftovers in ice cube trays. Once frozen, put them into plastic container or bag and back into the freezer for quick use. I just throw it into the sauce frozen and cook it into your dish. Pesto is always made to taste, based on the ingredients at hand. So adjust the ingredients to your taste. It is amazingly aromatic, so a little goes a long way.
Basil Pesto Basic pesto is made with basil, olive oil, nuts, and Parmesan cheese. Usually pine nuts, but I always use almonds or walnuts instead. I often add parsley and or oregano too. And sometimes I might take the time to toast the almonds. I use all these amounts as a guideline, adjusting to how much basil (or combination of assorted green herbs) I have to work with.
4 cups packed fresh basil leaves 3-4 cloves garlic 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper + 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup almonds 3/4 cup olive oil, to start with (you will probably end up using another 1/2 cup) *optional: other greens to add to supplement the basil if you don’t have enough: parsley, oregano, radish greens, nasturtium leaves) 3/4 cup grated parmesan cheese *optional: 2-4 tablespoons of lemon juice will help keep the brilliant green colour of the basil, and gives the pesto a nice splash of lemon flavour. *optional: substitute walnuts in place of almonds, (if you like walnuts)
Combine basil and garlic in blender slowly drizzle olive oil in while you blend till smooth. For sure you’re going to need to take breaks to push the basil down toward the blades, and to scrape off the inside of the jar. Add the nuts and salt and pepper. You can add lemon juice at this stage or toward the end. Taste test for salt and pepper. Add a little more if needed (better too little than too much). Be flexible, adding a little more oil as needed to keep it smooth. Don’t skimp on the oil – its a very important part. When the pesto is done, it is nicely smooth. Pour into a bigger bowl and stir the parmesan cheese in with a spoon. If you haven’t added the lemon juice yet, now would be a good time.
Spoon into a small jar to refrigerate. Cover the top with a little olive oil. Don’t store longer than a week. I generally make a batch big enough to freeze several small bottles. Spoon pesto into several small plastic or glass containers. Pat down with the back of a spoon and cover with olive oil, leaving 1/2 inch of head space. Seal with airtight lid, label with name and date. Freeze in an area of your freezer that will be easy to access. Yes I use small glass jars. Leaving a good headspace allows for expansion once it freezes. I stack them gently in a freezer basket, being careful never to jostle them and bang them together. In about 15 years of doing this, I’ve never had one break.
I keep a small container of pesto in the fridge at all times. When I empty one, I just go get another from the freezer, so I always have one thawed and ready if I decide I need some. I find that once its been frozen, it seems to last longer in the fridge. I’ve never had one go bad. I sometimes mix a couple tablespoons of pesto into an equal amount of mayonnaise and use that as a spread for toasted tomato sandwiches, or instead of butter on a grilled cheese sandwich.
* warning: this stains badly! Do NOT get it on your clothes. I don’t wear an apron often enough. But I always wear one when making pesto. ** hint: only use GREEN basil to make pesto. This year I mixed some purple basil in with the green. Oops – not a good resulting colour. Even lemon juice isn’t gonna help that combination.
BORAGE
– hardy, self seeds. This wonderful and very unique plant is an annual that self seeds. It is covered with stiff coarse hairs that make it prickly to the touch. The stem is erect with oval leaves that are rough and wrinkled and it grows up to 2 feet. It flowers all of July and August, in sparse clusters that are first purple, then blue. The flowers produce a lot of nectar which makes them very attractive to bees. It is for this reason that they have an honoured place in my garden.
Borage usually produces four seeds from each flower, which is the source of borage oil – very beneficial to use medicinally. The leaves and flowers are edible and nutritious. The plant itself has a nice light ‘cucumbery’ taste when fresh. Because of the prickly texture I chop the leaf and use sparingly in a salad, but its worth it. Also, lightly steaming it takes away the prickles so its a good green to serve for dinner.
CALENDULA(Pot Marigold)
Calendula are hardy, self seeding beautifully vibrant flowers. When you pick them, always ensure some blossoms get left to go to seed. Freely scatter the seed throughout your garden. This is especially wonderful for us, since calendula is native to the Mediterranean area. It’s name means “the one who follows the sun”, and ancient Greek mythology is full of stories about it. I received my first seeds from a friendly neighbour many years ago, and they’ve been a welcome happy guest in my garden ever since.
The flower petals are edible, as are all marigolds. Nice light peppery taste, add to salads.
Its unique composition of acids, mucilage, resins, and flavonoids, make this plant the ideal base for antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and healing treatments, so it is most commonly used in skin care products. It’s anti inflammatory properties also make it valuable taken internally as an infusion-tea. Fresh or dried flower petals (about 2 T dried, a little more fresh) in a cup with boiling water poured over top. Leave to infuse for 10 minutes covered. Recommended to take two or three cups a day between meals.
CARROT TOPS
For most of our lives we’ve thrown carrots tops away and have eaten the roots. The tops have more vitamin C and A than their roots! How’s that for irony?
I know right? Open your mind; carrot tops are wonderful. From carrots you grow yourself, or organic carrots you buy from the Farmer’s Market, don’t ever throw the tops away again. Right from the time they’re little and you’re thinning them out, till the season is over and you’re growing some more in your window from the ends of fresh carrots, they are readily available, refreshing, super nutritious and delicious! And the flavour matures from a tender sweet taste in the early summer while you’re thinning to a more robust flavour at the end of summer.
WHY would you?
carrot tops are sweet and delicious in the early spring
The leafy, dark green, ferny tops of carrots are extremely nutritious! They are obviously rich in natural chlorophyll which is a super antioxidant. Also a great source of fibre, and a rich source of magnesium and calcium, making them important for healthy bones and muscles. (Magnesium aids our bodies in absorbing calcium.) Rich in vitamins A, C, K, and potassium; many reports claim the tops have much more Vitamin C than the actual root that we love so much.
At the beginning of the summer when you’re thinning your carrots out, do NOT throw those greens away. Save them, swish them in water to remove the small amount of dirt that you pick up, and lightly chop them to add to a coleslaw, tabouli, or even just sprinkle over top of a garden salad. They are surprisingly sweet.
When you harvest your beautiful carrots at the end of the season, your tops are a lot more mature, but do not underestimate their value. For some of these dishes, you might want to remove the more fibrous stalks between root and leaves, but for others it doesn’t matter. The flavour of mature greens is a little stronger, leaning toward a bitter taste – perfect for things like ‘pesto’ and ‘gremolata’. Both of these condiments originally use basil, but they lend themselves beautifully to other flavours like parsley, tarragon and yes, even carrot tops.
using:
Use in vegetable stalk, saute into stir fries, use as a main ingredient in a pesto, in a green smoothie. If you have a favourite pesto recipe go ahead and use it, replacing the basil with chopped carrot tops in part of full. If you don’t have your own, try mine below.
pesto
Hint: hint: its difficult to use precise measurements when you’re making something straight from the garden, so be adventurous and flexible, and be prepared to adjust at the end when you do a taste test.
Carrot Top Pesto – 4 cups carrot tops, coarsley chopped (removing any big fibrous stalks). Or use 1/2 carrot top, 1/2 basil, or any combination with parsley. Your choice. 3-4 cloves of garlic, peeled juice from 1 lemon 1/3 cup olive oil. You’ll probably use more, but start with this amount. 1/2 cup nuts: your choice of almonds, hazel nuts, pecans, walnuts, pine nuts or even pumpkin seeds pinch or two of your favourite salt ground pepper 1/4-1/3 cup shredded parmesan or asiago cheese. Start with the lesser amount and go from there according to taste.
Puree greens, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil in the blender or food processor. Stop and scrape as needed. Add salt and pepper and nuts and puree again. Adjust oil amount if desire and puree again. Add smaller amount of cheese and puree again. Add more or not, as you desire. What to do with pesto? Toss into pasta, drizzle over roasted potatoes, cook chicken in it or spoon over chicken breast on the barbeque. Mix with mayo to use as a sandwich spread. Add to cream cheese and mayo for veggie dip or spread. Add vinegar and oil to make into a salad dressing.
an Italian herb condiment classically made from parsley, lemon zest and finely chopped garlic
Gremolata – I have recently discovered gremolata and ….. oh my, added to my list of favourite summer flavours. The perfect way to add a flavour punch to any meal including soup, salad, sandwiches, pasta and even meat. 1/2 cup coarsley chopped carrot tops (stalks removed) 1 (or 2) peeled clove of garlic, minced zest of 1 lemon (that’s right, not the juice) Chop carrot greens on a board, add minced clove of garlic and chop into it. Add zest of one large lemon and chop into the mixture. Spoon into small serving bowl.
What to do with Gremolata? Toss over top of pasta, into tabouli or couscous, drizzled over roasted potatoes or any cooked meat, spoon some on top of a bowl of beef stew, and serve with meatballs. Gremolata adds a fresh vibrance to any dish, and instantly makes it SUMMER!
Green Smoothie using Carrot tops Lightly chop greens, discarding the coarse stalks. Put into blender. Add one or two green apples, lemon juice, ripe banana and cold water. Puree in blender.
Carrot Ravioli served with Carrot Top Pesto slice carrot pieces, toss with olive oil and salt. Roast in 375 degree oven for 15 minutes. While that is cooking, saute chopped onion in butter; add crushed garlic and cardamon till onions are tender. Spoon onion mixture and roasted carrots into blender and puree. Add 1/4 – 1/3 cup shredded parmesan and blend again. Spoon by a teaspoon onto wonton squares, moisten edges and seal. Gently boil till they float, then remove from water. Drizzle pesto over top.
The sky is the limit when using this versatile and flavourful garden green. Be open minded and flexible, and it will change your life.
growing more in the house
At the end of the season, you can still have FRESH carrot greens for months to come. Cut the blunt end of the carrot to about 1/2 inch. Set in a saucer of water for a few days till new green starts to develop from the top, and delicate white roots shoot out from the sides. Gently set into prepared soil, water to moisten and set in a sunny window. You’ll be eating fresh carrot greens till Christmas. Eventually the plant will flower in it desperate attempt to propagate seeds. That’s okay. Let it. A pretty, white lacey flower will soon produce seeds.
CHAMOMILE
Native to Alberta, chamomile is known for its soothing-to-the-tummy reputation, with a calming quality. It is the common name for several daisy-like plants of the Asteraceae family. Two of the most common in our area (Alberta) are used to make herbal ‘infusions‘, or herbal ‘teas’. A nice mild hot drink, and refreshing as a chilled “Iced Tea” version.
What is the difference between ‘tea’ and herbal tea?
Now would be a good time to talk about ‘tea‘. I was surprised recently to learn that many of my tea drinking friends did not know the difference between the ‘tea’ that they drink, and the herbal so-called-tea that I drink. It is night and day. The question arose as we visited over a cup of tea. They knew that I didn’t drink tea, but I had no problem drinking certain herbal teas after I checked the ingredients. They assumed I edited my rules according to preference, but what I was looking for in the ingredient list was the absence of the word ‘tea’. Why? For one thing, TEA comes from a plant called – TEA. Black tea, white tea and green tea all come from the same shrub called Camellia sinensis. In all cases harvesters pluck the uppermost buds and leaves from the plant. So what’s the difference? It comes down to the harvesting and processing of it. White tea is picked in the spring and has a short harvest time. For green tea, leaves are harvested, withered, and then heated through steaming or pan-firing to halt oxidation so the leaves retain their colour and delicate flavour. To produce black tea, leaves are harvested and withered and then crushed, torn, curled, or rolled and allowed to oxidize (which triggers fermentation) before being dried. As a result the leaves darken and develop a stronger flavour and aroma. Traditionally, we drink tea by steeping it in hot water, so the word ‘tea’ has come to be synonymous with the process of preparing the hot drink, not just what is actually IN the cup. Iced tea is simply a cold version of brewed tea.
So though we call infusions made from herbs and flowers ‘tea’, we are actually referring to the steeping/brewing process, not necessarily the contents. It is a common error, among tea drinkers and non tea drinkers to assume that ‘tea’ is ‘tea’. And it would be, IF it actually contained ‘tea’. Being one who chooses to abstain from ‘tea’, as well as coffee means that I am avoiding the plant from which it comes from. So technically, my herbal cuppa choice, if it doesn’t contain white, black or green tea, isn’t ‘tea’ at all. It is an infusion. But who has a cuppa infusion?
growing
Three types of ‘chamomile’ grow well in our area (Alberta). Though they both have similar names, they are quite different. Roman chamomile is a low growing (3-6 inches tall) perennial and can take over your garden if you aren’t careful. If you plant it, be sure to select a permanent spot for it. German chamomile is an annual plant that reaches around 2 feet in height. It is probably the one you’re most used to seeing and the one pictured here, and though it is an annual plant, it is an aggressive self-seeder, so it will likely return year after year. Tricky. Wild chamomile is sometimes referred to as Pineapple Plant or Pineappleweed, is an annual ‘weed’ that commonly grows in inhospitable areas like gravel driveways, cracks in sidewalks, road sides and of course in fields – any place where it gets plenty of sun and heat.
Wild Chamomile or Pineappleweed
Pineapple weed gets its nickname from its appearance and scent. The shape of the blossom is reminiscent of a pineapple, and when you pinch one of the flowers you will smell the sweet, light sent of pineapple. Like the other chamomiles, it has medicinal qualities. It is a sedative herb that relaxes the digestive system and settles the stomach (including motion sickness). Also good for calming nerves, and as a mild relaxant to help you sleep. Because of its soothing properties it is used to help reduce stress and anxiety. A few drops of pineappleweed tincture will help with baby’s colic.
growing
Its hard to say how to grow a ‘weed’ because just the nature of a weed means it grows wherever it darn well feels like it. Usually the problem is it to stop growing where you don’t want it. But I find that to be true only until you find a useful purpose for it. Afterward it suddenly gets particular about its growing environ. Wild chamomile grows in cracks and seams and gravel, but in my garden it grows in a protected area, where weeds can be safe. Theoretically anyway. You’d be amazed how many people just want to bend over and pluck a ‘weed’, prompted by their inner good Samaritan to rid the world of these nuisances. It is a constant battle trying to ensure them that all is in control and that the world will not go to heck if we let these particular weeds find joy in their existence.
back to Chamomile proper –
Chamomile seeds (non pineappleweed) could be started indoors 6-8 weeks ahead of time. You need to be patient they take forever to germinate. 14-21 days. Just when you think something went wrong, presto – the sprouts appear. I grew some from seed a few years ago and then transplanted it and babied it but I ended up losing it. Pretty disheartening when you can’t even grow a stupid WEED. So I simply took advantage of a prolific patch that grows behind a neighbour’s house (as a weed). Don’t worry, I asked. I think it would be super easy to take some seed from the daisy like blossoms after they ripen and sprinkle them into my garden, but I am pretty sure I don’t want to have them volunteer indiscriminately.
One year I came across a German Chamomile plant in a nursery. First time ever! I planted it into the ‘protected zone’ portion of my garden, and babied it all summer. Still babying it. I am confident that once it gets started we’ll be best of friends.
Unlike the other two chamomiles we’re talking about here, pineapple weed does not have white flower petals. The flower is simply the small green nodule at the end of the stem that smells like a pineapple when pinched.
harvesting and using
Pick it to use fresh, or to dry for winter use. Of the other two chamomiles you can use the flowers and leaves, and even the stems, but I only pick the flowers because they’re so plentiful I don’t need anymore than that. But for the pineappleweed, because its so small and I usually don’t have a lot to pick from, I pick the blossoms and leaves, and if the plant is young and tender, I pick the stems too. Swish the plant around in water or gently spray the blossoms with water, and then flick off excess moisture.
A warm cup of ‘tea’ made with the leaves, flowers and stems will calm nerves, and sooth an upset tummy. I know that one can make tinctures but I never have. Personally, I’ve not felt compelled to set up my own apothecary, especially now that my kids are all gone. A simple cuppa tea works for me.
To make an infusion / cuppa tea, take a large handful and steep in tea pot with boiling hot water for 10 20 minutes. Easier to keep hot if you gently simmer in a small pot on very low heat. Strain as for any tea, and drink with a touch of honey or a dash of stevia to sweeten if desired. Adding a pinch of mint leaves gives it a nice flavour. Brew lots and chill it for a nice refreshing iced tea later.
As with many – perhaps most non-culinary herbs, not recommended during pregnancy until the very end. Chamomile is believed to initiate uterine contractions.
CHICKWEED
COMMON GARDEN CHICKWEED is a tender plant, branching out from a central root. The small leaves are bright green and sometimes referred to as ‘mouse ears’. The flowers are tiny, white and star like. Although its an annual, chickweed self seeds and so if you’re lucky, you can inadvertently bring in some seed with garden soil if you bring any plants into the house for winter. Common in most gardens, especially in damp partly shady areas.
Hated by many gardeners, chickweed can be transformed from a pest to a deliciously tender ‘vegetable’ by anyone with an open mind. Hardy, self seeds, highly recommended. With a delicate flavour, chickweed is a nutritional power house: calcium, essential fatty acid, iron, magnesium, manganese, phosphorus, potassium, selenium, silicon, sulfur, zinc, vitamins B1 B2 B3, C and E.
Yes, I know its a weed. But try to be open minded. Just because it is a common self seeding plant, its called a weed, but that word is not a swear word. Some of my best friends are weeds. And many are very useful.
Chickweed is super easy to eat right on the spot while you’re working in the garden. Be careful not to pull it up by the root as you don’t want to kill it. I know, that is contrary to what you’re naturally inclined to want to do with ‘weeds’, but once you understand and experience the value of chickweed, it will be a valuable and protected plant in your garden. Coarsely chop to add to a salad, throw into a smoothie or steam with other greens. There is no shortage of ways you can incorporate chickweed into your daily summer diet, and you will feel better for it. I promise.
There is a type of chickweed that is native to Alberta. Called LONG STALK or LONG LEAF CHICKWEED. You can read more about it in my blog article about weeds.
CHIVES
– hardy, self seeds and comes back from roots. Delicate onion flavour. Mostly culinary. There are a few reasons that this pretty plant is a must in every garden, even for those who don’t intend to grow herbs. First of all, its pink-purple flowers attract bees. Very important for the rest of your garden. It is a good companion plant with tomatoes and even strawberries. I have a row of small chives along my tomato patch and a couple of bigger chive plants in my strawberry patch.
Another reason I think every garden should have chives, is that they’re one of the first plants up in the spring. They are the promise of what is yet to come. When everything else is brown and ugly and you have to exercise faith and old pictures to remind yourself that in one month your garden is going to be lush and green, you have cheery green sprigs of chives poking through the soil promising that all is well, and the world is back on track.
And then of course they are just SO EASY to use. You can’t do wrong by chives; you can feel like a failure at everything else in your life, and chives will make you look like a master gardener and will never let you down in the kitchen. Just before dinner go out and cut off a handful of chives to add a light oniony flavour to every meal. Sandwiches, salads, sauces, casseroles, pasta, as a topping for potatoes and other vegetables. You name it, chives is your go to. I rarely use ‘onion’ in the summer because of the ready availability of chives. When your chives come into flower (they will blossom the rest of the summer), pull out or cut off the blossom stems. This keeps your plant fresh and green and prevents it from going to seed – which is the whole purpose of the flowers. Even if you are vigilant about removing the flowers, they will beat you. In an established plant there are simply too many to keep up with. Good thing they’re so versatile. These pretty little flowers are a constant summer bouquet on my kitchen table; but they’re edible too. Break the flower heads apart and sprinkle them over a nice light green summer salad. If they’ve gone to seed, use those tiny black seeds for a peppery addition to your vinegarette dressing. And use them to make a Sun Vinegar.
Sun Vinegar: When your chives are flowering with lots of flowers and buds, pick the flower heads. Wash and shake them out to remove dust and possible insects. Fill clean glass bottles half full of the flowers, then pour whilte distilled vinegar to the top of the bottle. Cap, and leave to sit in the sun for about two weeks. When the vinegar has turned colour – a nice light pink, and your flowers have lost their colour, your chive-vinegar is ready. Strain the vinegar and discard old blossoms into your compost bin. Rebottle and add new blossoms for garnish with a few chive stems. Store the finished vinegar out of the sunlight to retain the delicate pink colour. The mild onion taste is a wonderful addition to garden salads and steamed vegetables all year round.
COMFREY
This hardy perennial is in the same family as Borage, prickly leaves and all, but it grows much bigger! It grows well in sun or partial shade, and I know from experience it does just fine in total shade. Because it is so hardy, I planted mine in the most inhospitable sun spot in my yard. Sorry Comfrey, wicked payment I know for being so easy to get along with. At the end of the growing season, it dies right back for the winter, but is up bright and early first thing in the spring. A healthy comfrey plant in ideal conditions grows a good 2-3 feet across and up to 5 feet high and because it is a relatively fast grower, it can be cut down more than once during a season.
growing
The thing you want to remember is that comfrey has a very deep tap root, so it is difficult to get rid of if you change your mind of where you want it. The key word is “permanence‘, so think hard, think down the road and be very intentional when you plant it, because it is gonna stay there! This tap root makes it drought tolerant, so once its made itself at home, it will pretty much take care of itself. Super easy to propagate too. When you’re ready to plant more, dig the mother plant out and break the root into 3-4 inch pieces. Create a hole in the ground and drop it in. That’s it! I know right? It’s almost embarrassing its so easy. Your original mother plant will come back strong and healthy because any piece that gets left in the ground will grow into a new plant. So moving it can be a real headache, as even one broken piece left in the soil will start a new plant.
Apparently there are many types of comfrey, some of which will self seed, some of which the seed is sterile. I have no idea what the name of my comfrey type is, but after it being in one spot for over 20 years, I know it doesn’t self seed. Whew! Although the root gets denser (and therefore more permanent), it doesn’t trail out either, so at least it stays in one spot. For a plant as strong and powerful as Comfrey, I need it to be well behaved and respectful, or we simply won’t get along in the garden. Its all about manners. So if you’re buying your comfrey starts or getting root pieces from a friend, make sure you ask about its manners.
using
Comfrey is a unique plant with a unique and special use. Its deep taproot draws nutrients from deep in the soil, so it is a great source of garden nutrients for other plants. How do you get those nutrients from the deep to the other plants? I cut it back and throw it on the lawn while Dan is mowing, then he chops it up with the mower. I take the mulch and either distribute around existing plants that like extra potassium tomatoes, or deposit it straight into the compost as the wonderful compost booster it is. It grows so quickly that you can get a second harvest from it in late summer. For the first year, let it get established. Once the leaves have died back in the cold of the fall you can gather them, but I wouldn’t cut them down from an infant plant. Next spring, let it grow and then chop it down just above ground level mid season, then you’ll get the end of the year harvest too. I like the mid season harvest because that’s when my tomatoes need mulching. At the end of the year, I add directly into the gardens I’m putting to bed, or to my compost.
Comfrey was used traditionally for centuries as a medicine, but new evidence warns against taking it internally as it can cause problems with the liver and other organs. Its strength is healing wounds and other topical skin treatments, for non serious skin injuries.
My very first experience using Comfrey was in a poultice for my teenage daughter who had fallen off her bike and had bad abrasions covering one leg and hip. Sadly, I didn’t know how to apply a poultice and the experience was not a good one. For either of us. I caused my daughter more discomfort than necessary, and it took my confidence away for awhile. *Hint: learn how to apply a poultice . . . duh . . . . In my defense, it is a lot easier to learn things like this with the internet than it was in the days without the internet – which was when I was experimenting. Use a shield between the poultice material and the skin. Sheesh. It seems like such a no brainer now. – method 1: chop up washed leaves and pulse them into a paste in the blender with only as much water as needed. LAY A CLEAN THIN CLOTH against the skin, or lay the comfrey against a clean thin cloth. I have an old sheet washed, ripped into squares, folded and stored in a ziplock bag in my bathroom first aid drawer for just such a purpose. The comfrey paste should not be applied directly onto the abrasion because (duh) when it dries, how are you gonna remove it? The cloth also keeps the moisture from leaking everywhere. – method 2: mash up an actual leaf, either by hand, a clean stone, the pestle of a mortar and pestle set, or even the back of a spoon or dull knife. This releases the juices which contains an ingredient called ALLANTOIN, as well as other helpful biochemicals. This method is quicker and easier, so helpful when perhaps your situation demands on-the-spot aid. If you cut yourself, grab a comfrey leaf and rub it against itself to knock off the prickly hairs. Mash it up between your hands to make a poultice and gently lay across the cut. Wrap another other leaf or clean cloth around the wound to secure. The leaf will help stop the bleeding, and begin the healing process.
Allantoin has hydrating properties, increasing the water content of the skin which promotes healing. Because it is a skin protector and stimulates new cell growth, it is soothing to dry, chapped or inflamed skin, burns, rashes, bedsores, cuts, scrapes and abrasions (like road rash), making comfrey an excellent ingredient in healing salves and soaps. Combined with other herbs especially, comfrey can be an effective tool.
Simple salve: infuse olive oil with fresh, cleaned and chopped flowers of calendula, comfrey and yarrow, and chopped leaves of plantain and comfrey in a clean glass jar. Consider adding lemon balm, other mints, chamomile flowers or lavender flowers – what do you have available? Cover and leave in direct sunlight for three weeks. Strain out plant material with a clean thin white cloth, and stir in some melted beeswax, small amounts at a time to add just enough to solidify the salve to a creamy consistency. Pour into small clean tins. Has a reasonable shelf life but don’t expect it to last as long as store bought creams or salves.
a good neighbour in your garden
I hope you have a spot in mind to grow a few comfrey plants, in a spot where they won’t shade others, maybe on the edge of a garden on edge of your yard. It is such a valuable plant to have to use as weed suppressing, fertilizing much for fruit trees, and other garden plants – especially tomatoes. It has earned an honoured spot in my garden. At this moment we are in a little bit of a backyard transition, so I am waiting to have things permanently figured out before I plant 4 or 5 new comfrey plants in a spot I’ve already got picked out for them. The spot gets more sun than the mother plant gets now, so my expectations are high. If all goes well, I should be able to take root cuttings first thing next sun before it gets too into the growing season. Comfrey has a life expectancy of about 20 years and will start to decline after that, so I want to make sure I propagate more before that happens. Next spring is my target.
CORNSILK
I know right? Who knew. But it actually makes a nice tasting ‘tea’, and is used as a diuretic. The actual silk on the corn cob underneath the husk. Just peel it off and keep it in a clean spot. When all together, lay out to dry on a clean white tea towel on the table or counter, for about a week, turning over every day or so to ensure even drying. When completely dry, store in a clean glass jar covered in a cupboard. Use as an infusion in a tea pot with boiling water. Drink hot or chill in the fridge for the next day.
HIGHBUSH CRANBERRY
high bush cranberries can be picked while frozen in the middle of winter
Not the traditional cranberry you’re used to finding in the grocery stores, the High Bush Cranberry isn’t really even a true cranberry at all. Native to North America, it is also known as ‘squash berry’, ‘loose berry’, and ‘pembina berry’. It grows about 9 feet high (3 metres) and 6 feet across (2 metres). The berries grow in beautiful clusters, white in the summer and red when ripe. Interestingly, they can be picked late summer when they’re red, early fall, or even all winter long while they’re frozen on the tree. How cool is that? I had been told years ago that they were better picked after the first frost. Something about being sweeter, but this year we still haven’t even had a frost and its into October already, so we went ahead and picked them. Quite frankly, I can’t say that I noticed a difference in flavour.
growing and harvest
Apparently freezing affects the natural pectin, so if you want to make jelly, best to pick before freezing. I love fruit bearing plants that are native to the north, and I am determined to make the best of them – since we’re relatively limited in selection. We had two high bush cranberries planted in the yard our kids grew up in, and we really missed them when we moved. I was saddened to learn that the people who bought our house took them out because they “didn’t think they’d use them“. Whaaaat? I can’t even understand that line of thinking lol. It took us a few years but we finally planted one in our present yard. They are a beautiful tree notwithstanding their usefulness.
The trees prefer moist areas, so river valleys are a good place to find them if you’re into foraging; we have ours planted right beside one of our rain-water barrels, so there’s always spillage that keeps the ground well watered.
in the kitchen
Generally too sour to eat raw, high bush cranberries make great juice, jelly and (so I’m told) wine. Be prepared, the smell when cooking is NOT nice. In fact, you’ll wonder if something went terribly wrong (I am not kidding), but relax, all is well – even if it does smell a little like rotten eggs or stinky cheese. Keep the windows open and don’t invite company over for a few days. Again, I am not kidding. This year (2020) I read that adding the juice of a lemon when simmering helps eliminate the smell so I figured I had everything to gain and nothing to lose. I tried it. I actually used a tablespoon of the concentrated lemon powder from THRIVE LIFE which I conveniently have on hand all the time. I am happy to say that it worked beautifully. I couldn’t smell anything but goodness the whole time it simmered and afterward, in fact I even invited a friend over for the evening – something I never would have done in years gone by.
cranberry beside seeds
The berries themselves are about the size of blueberries, but the seeds are relatively large and flat, making it difficult to do anything but juice them. But they do make great juice, syrup and jelly. They definitely need some kind of sweetener because they’re quite sour.
I’ve never taken the cranberry juice to the next stage of syrup or jelly. Personally I am not a huge fan of jelly because of the amount of sugar required, and I have plenty of other syrup options. I do very much like fresh cranberry sauce, but I make mine with the traditional cranberries we buy fresh or frozen from the grocery store or the THRIVE LIFE freeze dried cranberries I keep on hand in my food storage.
Juice
highbush cranberries after simmering 20 minutes. Beginning to cool.
Cranberry juice is what I traditionally like to serve with Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners. I buy it when I have to, but how much better is it when it comes from your own garden? I serve it sparkling, with gingerale, a nice seasonal treat.
Don’t think about using your steam juicer, high bush cranberries need water. Rinse with cool water to clean the dust etc away, and discard leaves and stems, but don’t worry about the small stems. Put them in a sauce pan that has a extra headroom in it, and add water to completely cover. That’s enough. Too much water will make the juice wimpy and thin. Over medium low heat bring to a gentle boil stirring occasionally, then immediately turn down and simmer covered about 20 minutes. Turn the heat off and let cool.
Once cool (usually the next day), strain the softened berries through a jelly cloth or cheese cloth. Don’t rush this part. Let it drip till done, then squeeze the bag. That’s it. Easy breezy. Sweeten to taste. If you’re planning to use for jelly, don’t sweeten – follow a recipe for normal cranberry jelly.
Highbush cranberries are good for kidneys, bladder and skin. Helpful for infections in urinary tract. High in Vitamins A and C and antioxidants.
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I’d be interested in your thoughts, and your experiences with these or any other herbs and spices commonly in our homes and yards. Find parts 2, 3, 4 of “Common Herbs and Spices in your House and Yard” in BACKYARD CITY HOMESTEAD for lots of other useful plants to grow in your yard.
